Proper way to run 0-60, 1/8, 1/4? - Infiniti Q50 Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 04:06 AM Thread Starter
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Default Proper way to run 0-60, 1/8, 1/4?

I haven't seen a definitive way stated yet. Could the pros chime in and list the best way to run 0-60 mph, 1/8 mi, and 1/4 mi please? Traction Control on/off? Auto shift/manual shift? If manual, shift at what RPM? Power brake or not? If so, launch at what RPM? Etc., etc. Thanks!

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 07:12 AM
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I have used 2000 RPM brake boost, TC OFF (I have a Z1 LSD & AWD), auto shift. Mode did not make much difference since you are floored, but suggest Sport+. I did an Eco mode run just to see, and it was not much different.

Note: For best MPG I use "personal" mode since it's the only way to shut off ATC. Mine Personal mode is set up sport suspension, std steering, std transmission, ATC OFF.

I use it 90% of the time. Also TC OFF 90% of the time. I feel FEB is dangerous and also shut it off on secondary roads (2 way roads) where I pass often, BUT leave it on on limited acess roads (highway) as it can save your ass when traffic goes from 75 MPH to 40 MPH with no warning.

FEB has helped me 2x, and has almost caused an accedent 2-3 times MORE. It also activates on exit ramps a lot, which I find annoying... let alone anyone behind me!

FEB not only puts the brakes on it kills the power via the ECU. Not the best when passing! 😳
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 10:49 AM
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Proper way to run 0-60, 1/8, 1/4?

Rental car.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 12:08 PM
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Proper way to run 0-60, 1/8, 1/4?

Rental car.
I like the way you roll!
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 01:01 PM
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FEB not only puts the brakes on it kills the power via the ECU. Not the best when passing! 😳
Kills power? How so? Are you referring to the accelerator control system pedal actuator which pushes the pedal up when FEB firsts detects a potential collision? That's controlled by the ADAS control unit. I can't find any references about the ECU reducing power itself.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnInNH View Post

FEB not only puts the brakes on it kills the power via the ECU. Not the best when passing! 😳
Kills power? How so? Are you referring to the accelerator control system pedal actuator which pushes the pedal up when FEB firsts detects a potential collision? That's controlled by the ADAS control unit. I can't find any references about the ECU reducing power itself.
Hey guys so I noticed when I take the traction control off, it also disabled the FEB, when I had the SS that was not the case because I didn't have the 360 on it, with my RS being fully loaded, I have noticed it, John was saying that he turned his off.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 08:09 PM
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The FEB light goes on when you shut TC off... BUT FEB is still ON. You have to disable it in the menu to really disable FEB. Try it. No clue why both dash lights go on with just the TC button being pushed.

I have spent a lot of time messing with this.

Re the ECU cutting power. Maybe the ECU doesn't cut the power the gas peddle just stops working as giving it gas seems to do nothing. Same with the torque brake vectoring... if I floor it with TC on, with sand it feels like the car just "quits" for a bit, not a smooth brake application on the wheel while still trying to accelerate. Unlike they claim. Maybe they just disable the peddle signal, not disabling via the ECU. The effect is the same to me.

The only way I can get the power to continue delivering power on iffy traction conditions is to disable TC.

Now to complicate things it appears, from my testing, the modes control the intensity of the brake torque vectoring.

In std mode its quite agressive and sport+ much less so.
Maybe @Avedis53 can elaborate on the above.

I spent quite a lot of time on a hill with 1" of snow playing with different combinations of modes and TC on and off, in each mode.

Try it. You may find it interesting. TC off in Sport+ is a blast. You can easily loose control, you can really put power down to all the wheels and spin them.. granted this can lead to the car not staying the road. Camber slip.

I don't want my brakes being applied or my power being interrupted (ECU or peddel signal) when I don't want it doing that. I want to control the power delivery with my foot.

HOWEVER on bad, slippery, iffy off camber, ice n snow roads, I may choose to leave the nanny tec on so I stay on the road.

All this is difficult to write clearly.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 10:27 AM
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Thanks John, I didn't get back to the conversation last night, I'm hearing some thumping noise in the driver front wheel, I'm hoping that the 10" wheels are not the problem, I will have more time to look at it tomorrow.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JohnInNH View Post
I have used 2000 RPM brake boost, TC OFF (I have a Z1 LSD & AWD), auto shift. Mode did not make much difference since you are floored, but suggest Sport+. I did an Eco mode run just to see, and it was not much different.

Note: For best MPG I use "personal" mode since it's the only way to shut off ATC. Mine Personal mode is set up sport suspension, std steering, std transmission, ATC OFF.

I use it 90% of the time. Also TC OFF 90% of the time. I feel FEB is dangerous and also shut it off on secondary roads (2 way roads) where I pass often, BUT leave it on on limited acess roads (highway) as it can save your ass when traffic goes from 75 MPH to 40 MPH with no warning.

FEB has helped me 2x, and has almost caused an accedent 2-3 times MORE. It also activates on exit ramps a lot, which I find annoying... let alone anyone behind me!

FEB not only puts the brakes on it kills the power via the ECU. Not the best when passing! 😳



Thanks JINH. So, for RWD, what would you say? TC on/off?

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 04:53 PM
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RWD .. If you have a LSD.. off. If stock try on, then off, then see the difference.
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