Burger Tuning JB1 Reviews - Page 40 - Infiniti Q50 Forum
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post #391 of 462 (permalink) Old 06-03-2018, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by IridiumRS400 View Post
Do yourself a favor - change over to the JB4. It allows you to run a (user-defined) tapered boost profile on Map 6 with the JB4. Very little or no additive boost until 2.5k rpm, +4.0 psi from 4-5k rpm, and then taper off until 6.5-7k, which has no additive boost. See below for a guideline:



The turbos have a sweet spot where they are most efficient, from ~4 to just over 5k rpm, after that, requesting more boost at a level of +4, +5, etc,. generates more heat, as they are operating outside their efficiency curve.

See the following link for more details:

https://blog.stillen.com/2016/12/to-...30ddtt-turbos/

I also have installed an Infiniti (AMS) HE - it provides consistent boost as it reduces IAT and thus Knock Retard (KR), which kills boost in a hurry...
Ok I will have to upgrade it then, box has been sitting on the shelf for a few months now. I do not push the car that often to be truthful but now and then I like to indulge. When I do I want to take off LOL. This looks like a good map to follow I will test it out Thanks!

Again have to ask will I see better performance over the JB1 +4 running this Map? Also have you pushed it at +5 in the peak RPM 2.5 rpm to -5.5 PRM? Dont think I would go over 5PSI with 94 Octane. Looking for the sweet sport on 94 Octane and that is good enough for me.

Pulled on a F type with the Supercharger yesterday must have been the F‑TYPE R-DYNAMIC COUPE 3.0l version. He fell off quickly.

Faster the better
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post #392 of 462 (permalink) Old 06-03-2018, 07:16 PM
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Again have to ask will I see better performance over the JB1 +4 running this Map? Also have you pushed it at +5 in the peak RPM 2.5 rpm to -5.5 PRM? Dont think I would go over 5PSI with 94 Octane.
These small turbos aren't spinning fast enough at 2.5k to generate a +5 psi boost request over the ecu psi. Looking at the chart, the Pressure Ratio (PR) is 1.34 and the Volumetric Efficiency (VE) is 85%, and compare it to the PR & VE #'s between 4,250-5,250 rpm. That's where the sausage is made

For the Red Sport, without an AMS/EcuTek/UpRev tune to maximize the Air-Fuel Ratio and Timing, I wouldn't boost above +4 psi (18.5 psi absolute) with the JB4 in the rpm range I mention, because otherwise you risk exceeding the limit (boost spikes), and/or lose boost via the wastegate, and/or drive up your Exhaust Gas Temp, which is hard on the turbos (potential for oil coking) over-time.

If you want consistent, reliable boost, you'll also need a Frozen Boost or Infiniti (AMS) H/E.
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Last edited by IridiumRS400; 06-03-2018 at 07:20 PM.
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post #393 of 462 (permalink) Old 06-04-2018, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by IridiumRS400 View Post
These small turbos aren't spinning fast enough at 2.5k to generate a +5 psi boost request over the ecu psi. Looking at the chart, the Pressure Ratio (PR) is 1.34 and the Volumetric Efficiency (VE) is 85%, and compare it to the PR & VE #'s between 4,250-5,250 rpm. That's where the sausage is made

For the Red Sport, without an AMS/EcuTek/UpRev tune to maximize the Air-Fuel Ratio and Timing, I wouldn't boost above +4 psi (18.5 psi absolute) with the JB4 in the rpm range I mention, because otherwise you risk exceeding the limit (boost spikes), and/or lose boost via the wastegate, and/or drive up your Exhaust Gas Temp, which is hard on the turbos (potential for oil coking) over-time.

If you want consistent, reliable boost, you'll also need a Frozen Boost or Infiniti (AMS) H/E.
OK thanks!

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post #394 of 462 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 10:05 AM
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Ebay 20% coupon just went live so get em cheap while you can! Stage 1 for ~$300 shipped!

Code: PICKDADSGIFT

Bought mine from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/222956823268/

Seems above is now sold out but there are other options (some charge shipping - free shipping options seem to have low stock).
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Last edited by tubs; 06-06-2018 at 10:07 AM.
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post #395 of 462 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 10:39 AM
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Ebay 20% coupon just went live so get em cheap while you can! Stage 1 for ~$300 shipped!

Code: PICKDADSGIFT

Bought mine from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/222956823268/

Seems above is now sold out but there are other options (some charge shipping - free shipping options seem to have low stock).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMS-Infinit...4383.l4275.c10

JB4 available for $383!!

Code only good today till 10pm EST
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2018 Infiniti Q50S Red Sport 400
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Last edited by CtK; 06-06-2018 at 10:55 AM.
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post #396 of 462 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 10:51 AM
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https://www.ebay.com/i/173126321131

JB4 available for $383!!

Code only good today till 10pm EST
That link is for a JB1, just to be accurate....

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post #397 of 462 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 01:31 AM
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I don't know what I'm doing wrong but this POS wont work for the life of me.

Purchased JB4, opened hood, locked car, relocated key fob somewhere on the other side of the universe. Disconnected factory harness, connected JB4, turned car on, 16 different check engine and warning lights. Shut off car, disconnected harness, swapped said harnesses, turned on car, no lights but car drives like sh*t, no power, no nothing. Disconnected unit completely, now I have a Check Engine Light.

How am I screwing something so simple up?

Thanks.
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post #398 of 462 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 07:33 AM
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Did you go through the firewall? Maybe one of the wires is exposed and grounding out on thor chassis.
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post #399 of 462 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ZYAL8TRR View Post
I don't know what I'm doing wrong but this POS wont work for the life of me.

Purchased JB4, opened hood, locked car, relocated key fob somewhere on the other side of the universe. Disconnected factory harness, connected JB4, turned car on, 16 different check engine and warning lights. Shut off car, disconnected harness, swapped said harnesses, turned on car, no lights but car drives like sh*t, no power, no nothing. Disconnected unit completely, now I have a Check Engine Light.

How am I screwing something so simple up?

Thanks.

How long did you wait before disconnecting the wires? Locking the car isn't really a requirement and I think the idea is to let the car go into 'sleep'



One indicator I would use is the P light by the shifter. I wouldn't touch anything until it's off. Also, do not touch any of the front door handle (even if you don't have the key with you) as it will 'wake up' again.


If the issue still persist, try disconnecting the negative batt terminal and then reconnect the wires back.
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post #400 of 462 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 12:17 PM
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Check the Burger wiring harness' plugs to make sure all of the pins are straight and none have been pushed back in the plug. I had one pin that wasn't completely inserted into the plug and it didn't make proper contact. My car ran liked sh1t and threw a couple pDTCs indicating the "B" side was wonky. I disconnected the harness, found the pin pushed back further in the plug than the rest of the pins, reseated it, and the car ran fine.

If you have an OBD2 scan tool, check which pDTCs were thrown. It can help determine which side (A, B or both) is causing the problem.

2018 Q50 RS 400 AWD - Graphite Shadow - Sensory Package (Sport) - ProACTIVE Package - Continental DWS 06 A/S tires - BMS JB4 w/BT Rev.3 Connect Kit - FI CBE w/resonated X-pipe - Z1 Motorsports 2-Piece brake rotors - Infiniti Motorsports street pads - Stillen rear anti-sway bar - Mishimoto OCC - XPEL Ultimate Protective Paint Film - Color-matched rear spoiler - PrecisionLED light kit - Tuxmats - StrongArm trunk lifts - Escort 360c radar detector w/Blendmount & MirrorTap - Vantrue N2 Pro dashcam
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