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JB4 Question

7K views 43 replies 13 participants last post by  MLospy33 
#1 ·
I'm shopping for the JB4 tune and just wanted to know before purchasing if the wireless smart phone kit is necessary/worth it. Is it like a tablet module you use for custom tuning? Just looking for some insight before the green light
 
#2 ·
I highly recommend the wireless kit. Yes, it's expensive ($140) but the convenience of being able to wirelessly make changes from your phone instead of connecting a laptop and cable is worth the cost IMHO. You will need to also get the JB4 Mobile app for your phone which is another $28 in order to take advantage of the wireless connection. Check out the app to see what all you can do with it and the wireless kit. The kit itself is a small BT dongle that you'll have to connect to the JB4 but it's simple to do.

I won't bother listing all the features of the app as you can read about them for yourself. I bought the dongle and app and they are the only way to go if you install a JB4 in your Q.
 
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#3 ·
I agree with A5 that if you get a JB4 (what you're asking about), splurge for the BT and App. If you think you would be happy with a JB1 (really named Stage 1), then by all means, keep it simple, get a JB1. Really the only reason to get a JB1 is if you are on a budget and you have a Red Sport and you're completely happy with keeping the boost at 3PSI over stock. But if you are Silver Sport and/or are looking to start changing and customizing maps, step up the JB4 with BT. Don't mess with the data cable. You can start with a JB1 and go JB4 later if you'd like.
 
#4 ·
I strongly recommend getting it, you’ll be able to log your runs and see how your car reacts to the maps you choose. Everyone on here prefers map 6 due to being able to pick your own parameters and you’re able to taper your boost after certain RPM ranges. Ask Avedis53 and he can explain why that is wise and how it will benefit your turbos in the long run. Either way, that extra money spent is WELL worth it
 
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#6 · (Edited)
Well put! i appreciate the input from everyone and also am poised to ask the question though will this also work on a premium i see the website says Q50 RS and SS will this harm a premium if installed or be less beneficial?

And on the topic of purchasing Fuel wires, is this also for swapping over to E85 ? or for adjusting fuel air ratio as it mentions
 
#8 ·
same engine so no it wont hurt it. Fuel wires are most beneficial when running ethanol blends up to 30%. A few people have mentioned they are useful for 93 pump gas. Basically fuel wires trick the ecu to provide less fuel so you run a leaner afr, the 3.0's run pretty rich (which is good and safe) but you do loose some HP for running too rich.
 
#10 ·
Ask MWH on YouTube about going with E85 mix. He's now going back to pump gas. He has a new engine, believe it or not, under warentee.

I am sticking to pump gas. I have not ruled out the AMS RS600/RS500 kit upgrades, at some point. Still pump gas. Many less variables to manage.
 
#11 ·
Personally, I wouldn't mess with ETOH because the VR30 simply isn't designed to be a flex-fuel vehicle. Besides, there's no E85 to burn or blend with around here anyway.
 
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#13 ·
For $30 & 30min to install - no brainer IMO.
 
#15 ·
I categorically concur. Even if you don't go the ETOH route, being able to fine tune your AFR at higher rpms can generate more power since the car does run rich.
 
#14 ·
I use 100 unleaded, mixed to 94-95 on special occasions.

A good app: "Octaine Mix Calculator". The one with 3 yellow squares on it.
 
#16 ·
It looks like with all the JB4 extras you can really dial in your car. As long as you know what your doing. Otherwise you could really hurt your car. Excellent tool.
 
#22 ·
Just FYI, from another member on another forum:
I've posted this many times over the years,,
I have sold race gas to road racers (SCCA) for quite a few years, and have had the privilege of getting to hang out with chemists from various fuel companies while selling fuel to IMSA/American LeMan etc.. couple things they told me.

1. Gas is IR/UV sensitive.. You can prove it for yourself, put a pint jar of race in a jar in the sun for a hour, it will often start to precipitate the additive package out of the fuel. It does not hurt as long as the fuel is used right away, and kept agitated.. Wondering if anybody with the clear tanks has noticed any issues? Because I've seen race gas go bad in a day in the white moto cans.

2. Racequipe now says to NEVER leave blended fuel in a fuel cell, they can't find a material that resists the combination of the ethanol AND the octane package sin the newer gasoline's and pump gas is the worst offender of breaking down the fuel cell bladder seams (They are made and glued together in sections...)

3. Mixing pump gas and race gas is a bad thing. The additive packages are generally NOT compatible, street gas is formulated to reduce evaporation, race gas is designed to evaporate fast. in most cases the octane contributors in race fuel and street fuel are not additive, they are subtractive. So mix 92 street with 104 race and you could get 89 or 140 there is no guarantee... The formulas in street fuel change constantly (IE weekly) because they buy the cheapest chemical available on a commodity market and is blended at the distributor by the truck driver... Race fuel starts out refined to a higher base octane and the package is blended at the refinery by chemists to get quality control, and usually only changes slightly throughout the year.


YMMV Literally ,,,,
 
#23 ·
My 93 map is a 93 n + map. It's safe at 93 but will benifit from a bit more. Its a 93 & 93+ map. Kinda like 38+p
 
#28 ·
If you do the door route (that's what I'd do. Using 3M adhesive mounting wire clips or the like) 10 min or maybe less?
 
#29 ·
I did the left front quarter panel route in less than 10 minutes and most of that was securing the cable once it was snaked into place. Didn't have to stand on my head either like the grommet route takes. Easily removed also.
 
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#30 ·
Adding the fuel wires looks like a PITA to install and remove. Benifits are good. But at that point just go EcuTec IMHO
 
#32 ·
This. First install may take some time because you're being careful, once you've done it, its a breeze.
 
#33 · (Edited)
well i bought it and my JB4 is installed!! first wow what a nice addition, I split it and connected the bluetooth module first then connected ran the wires through the quarter panel and had it all connected and setup in 5 maybe 10 mins! I tired map 6 but despite having my CBE i think i need my downpipes as well ( which get done tomorrow!!) before using that map. I selected the map put it in sport mode drove to the freeway and when i stepped on it the tranny downshifted pretty hard...took off like a bat outta **** after it down shifted and I hit 13lbs of boost launching to about 90-95 from 50 AFR, stayed about 14.6-15.1...i didnt think to log it however i did launch to 70 from a dead stop and did log that i will upload next!
 
#34 ·
Here is the graph of the 0-70 I peaked a higher boost on that also attached is the boost I was running on map 6....little belt squeal which was annoying because I just picked it up from the dealer after being serviced and told them about it but they "didnt hear it" but anyways here's my numbers
 

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#35 · (Edited)
little belt squeal which was annoying because I just picked it up from the dealer after being serviced and told them about it but they "didnt hear it"
Should I start the thread for you about snapping your belt, disconnecting the JB4 on the side of the road while you wait for a tow, so the dealership doesn't see any obvious mods while they replace your belt (+ any other associated underhood carnage) under warranty?

LOL

Seriously, don't let that belt squeal too long... it's a tell-tale that either the belt is mis-aligned and on its way out, or the belt itself has stretched and will be failing soon!
 
#37 ·
I thought you needed "fuel wires" to deal with AFR. My AFR is spot on with my EcuTec tune from Sebastian. I review my logs to check. It's the boost that's been the issue due to different torque tables Pat changed at Level 10.
Map calls for 38 PSI and I was only getting 30. But Seb fixed it after calling EcuTec across the pond.
I then was seriously over boosting! Now just dialing in the boost, post "fix".
Fingers crossed the next Dyno pull will be a lot better. I'd be happy with 420ish for my AWD.
 
#39 ·
That's what I thought too. +5 at 5500?
 
#40 ·
I'm in a Luxe and I don't taper until 6k RPM
 
#44 ·
Okay here is the maps again, the one where I hit 12-13 psi is a 0-100 NO JB4 (Map 0) and where I hit about 15-16 PSI was 0-70 using map 6 .... 3rd pic is the boost numbers from map 6 @ each rpm....is it better to have it based off gear instead?
 

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