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Discussion Starter #1
I have the opportunity to purchase a 2016 RS Saturday. It has very low mileage as it was used as one of the dealers loaners. For me, this is a VERY large purchase so I'm seeking advice.

From an earlier post I learned that, even though I'm buying CPO from and Infiniti dealer, that I should have the car checked out by a mechanic. That is in the works. I plan to ask the dealer for the completed & signed CPO Checklist and will provide that to the mechanic as well.

Because the mileage is very low, according to the Infiniti website, my warranty will fall under the Preferred CPO plan...which reduces the covered mileage (which sounds like the opposite of "Preferred" to me). So I'd love to know if there is any benefit to the Preferred CPO over the standard CPO program.

Aside from some insight into the CPO program, I would like to get advice on anything related to the purchase and anything to watch out for with the car...or the dealer.

I'm a bit nervous because this is twice what I've ever spent on a car before. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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It really seems like the only value of CPO for these cars is in any warranty it comes with, so "preferred" just means "crappy" in this case. If I was buying a Red Sport from the golden year of belt slippage, the warranty would be a major consideration. In the worthless opinion of an STI driver I'd go with a newer Silver Sport instead, throw on an LSD and bolt-ons, then tune it into a missile like some of the other guys here.
 

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It really seems like the only value of CPO for these cars is in any warranty it comes with, so "preferred" just means "crappy" in this case. If I was buying a Red Sport from the golden year of belt slippage, the warranty would be a major consideration. In the worthless opinion of an STI driver I'd go with a newer Silver Sport instead, throw on an LSD and bolt-ons, then tune it into a missile like some of the other guys here.
Agreed. If you're going to mod the engine, find a SS and put the money saved towards improvements.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is there a reason your married to that car? Plenty of premiums out there with decent mileage for MUCH less money.
Yes, there is a reason. The specs on this car are what I was looking for and they are somewhat difficult to find. I've been looking for over two months and this is one of three I've found in that time.

I get the impression from your reply that you do not think the RS400 is worth the additional cost. Could you please elaborate?
 

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As said above if you do any modifying or tuning go with a SS, I'd recommend pushing for a longer warranty with the 2016 model year.
They had some belt slipping issues and it's the first generation of the car with a new engine so you never know what may crop up.

That said for a brand new engine the VR30 has been rock solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It really seems like the only value of CPO for these cars is in any warranty it comes with, so "preferred" just means "crappy" in this case. If I was buying a Red Sport from the golden year of belt slippage, the warranty would be a major consideration. In the worthless opinion of an STI driver I'd go with a newer Silver Sport instead, throw on an LSD and bolt-ons, then tune it into a missile like some of the other guys here.
As for the LSD and bolt-ons, I'm 61 years old and no longer inclined to work on/underneath cars. I'm paying 7k over the cost of the Premium (3k or 4k over the SS) for the RS400. Considering that and the fact that I would not be doing and mods to a 300HP version, does this sound reasonable?

The golden year of belt slippage? Was there a recall & fix for that or is it an ongoing problem?

What is an STI driver?
 

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As for the LSD and bolt-ons, I'm 61 years old and no longer inclined to work on/underneath cars. I'm paying 7k over the cost of the Premium (3k or 4k over the SS) for the RS400. Considering that and the fact that I would not be doing and mods to a 300HP version, does this sound reasonable?

The golden year of belt slippage? Was there a recall & fix for that or is it an ongoing problem?

What is an STI driver?
If you're not going to mod the engine and have the bucks, get an RS. The TSR was for 2016 and some VINs in 2017 IIRC. The TSR is posted somewhere in this forum for specifics.


An STI driver is a Q50 wannabe. They are referring to a Subaru WRX STI.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
...I'd recommend pushing for a longer warranty with the 2016 model year.
Is that even possible? The Infiniti website spells it out pretty clearly. From their site...

Preferred: "Less Than/Equal to 15,000 Miles"
CPO (Standard): "Between 15,001 and 70,000 Miles"

If the dealer has flexibility on these mileage constraints, it sounds like I'd be better off with the standard CPO warranty.

Have you or anyone else here been able to get the standard CPO warranty with a car significantly under the 15,001 cut-off?
 

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Is that even possible? The Infiniti website spells it out pretty clearly. From their site...

Preferred: "Less Than/Equal to 15,000 Miles"
CPO (Standard): "Between 15,001 and 70,000 Miles"

If the dealer has flexibility on these mileage constraints, it sounds like I'd be better off with the standard CPO warranty.

Have you or anyone else here been able to get the standard CPO warranty with a car significantly under the 15,001 cut-off?
Admittedly I'm not too sure if they are even allowed to do that, but you are correct that is pretty clear cut.
But the dealer should be able to offer and extended warranty of some kind on the car unless they reserve that for
only new sales.

Regardless just make sure you have a independent mechanic do the inspection before you buy.
 

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If you're leaving it stock, I'd definitely go for the Red Sport. With a short warranty though, it may be worth holding off for one with a "normal" CPO warranty or seeing what they'll throw in to extend it. The belt flying off thing (sometimes referred to as "serpentine engine snapping" by some outstanding posters here) was most prevalent and sort of officially confined to the 2016 years, but seems to still happen to those with bad luck. There are some long angry/fascinating/humorous threads about them on here. Not something that will definitely happen by any means, just something to be aware of prior to purchasing.
 

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I own a late model year 2016 RS. I believe the accessory belt problems affect a relatively small number of cars, but it should be none, and if it happens to you, it's a big deal. There have been a few instances where forum members have been affected. I believe that @Bullitt was affected a few month ago, he may have been the most recent.


Here are a few things I suggest concerning the accessory belt. The accessory belt TSB is Classification: EM16-006a, Reference: ITB17-004a. There's a link to it somewhere on this forum, get it, print it out and make the dealer perform the inspection and adjustment steps in the bulletin before you will buy the car. You could always ask to watch the work done, there's a critical dimension between the belt and the edge of the idler pulley, while the tech is doing the work, you can ask what the measurement is, if it's below the spec, he should complete the adjustments listed in the TSB. Or better yet, have your own mechanic do the measurement, before the dealer, then you can have independent verification if the adjustments are needed. I tried attaching the PDF, but it exceeds the file size limit. Check the build date, the later in 2016 the better, though I'm not claiming this will remove all risk of the accessory belt issue as all model years are included in the TSB, but the problems seem to be more prevalent in cars manufactured earlier, so it might improve your odds. Try to negotiate an extension to whatever warranty they are providing.
 

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Is there a reason your married to that car? Plenty of premiums out there with decent mileage for MUCH less money.
Yes, there is a reason. The specs on this car are what I was looking for and they are somewhat difficult to find. I've been looking for over two months and this is one of three I've found in that time.

I get the impression from your reply that you do not think the RS400 is worth the additional cost. Could you please elaborate?
the difference between a RS and an SS is a heat exchanger pump, an optical sensor, and the the tune. Even though you're in your 60s, your capable to install a JB4 tune which allows you to essentially make the same power or more than an RS and save about $6300.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I own a late model year 2016 RS. I believe the accessory belt problems affect a relatively small number of cars, but it should be none, and if it happens to you, it's a big deal. There have been a few instances where forum members have been affected. I believe that @Bullitt was affected a few month ago, he may have been the most recent.


Here are a few things I suggest concerning the accessory belt. The accessory belt TSB is Classification: EM16-006a, Reference: ITB17-004a. There's a link to it somewhere on this forum, get it, print it out and make the dealer perform the inspection and adjustment steps in the bulletin before you will buy the car. You could always ask to watch the work done, there's a critical dimension between the belt and the edge of the idler pulley, while the tech is doing the work, you can ask what the measurement is, if it's below the spec, he should complete the adjustments listed in the TSB. Or better yet, have your own mechanic do the measurement, before the dealer, then you can have independent verification if the adjustments are needed. I tried attaching the PDF, but it exceeds the file size limit. Check the build date, the later in 2016 the better, though I'm not claiming this will remove all risk of the accessory belt issue as all model years are included in the TSB, but the problems seem to be more prevalent in cars manufactured earlier, so it might improve your odds. Try to negotiate an extension to whatever warranty they are providing.
Wow...amazingly helpful and informative. Thank you for the detail. I located the post you referenced, printed it and will be providing it to my mechanic. Also, I will see what can be done about adding additional mileage to the warranty. Thank you.

What a tremendous resource this forum is for all Q50 owners and those of us who aspire to be!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
the difference between a RS and an SS is a heat exchanger pump, an optical sensor, and the the tune. Even though you're in your 60s, your capable to install a JB4 tune which allows you to essentially make the same power or more than an RS and save about $6300.
I'm sure this is great advice for those buying non-CPO vehicles. But for those of us who are, I'd be concerned about what a JB4 would do to the warranty should something go south. Infiniti is pretty clear in what is not covered...

"modification of the vehicle from the original factory specifications, including installation of non-INFINITI approved accessories or components;"

If I were buy another Q50, out of warranty from a private seller, I would definitely take the route you outlined.
 

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the difference between a RS and an SS is a heat exchanger pump, an optical sensor, and the the tune. Even though you're in your 60s, your capable to install a JB4 tune which allows you to essentially make the same power or more than an RS and save about $6300.
I'm sure this is great advice for those buying non-CPO vehicles. But for those of us who are, I'd be concerned about what a JB4 would do to the warranty should something go south. Infiniti is pretty clear in what is not covered...

"modification of the vehicle from the original factory specifications, including installation of non-INFINITI approved accessories or components;"

If I were buy another Q50, out of warranty from a private seller, I would definitely take the route you outlined.
the JB4 is not a flash tune and is completely removable. Have you ever watched Tommy Boy? CPO=brake pad warranty.....like a warm blanket. Obviously it's your choice and your money, but given that your initial post seemed highly concerned about spending twice what you normally spend on a car, there are cheaper alternatives that are just as reliable and would give you the power you want.
 

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Well shoot there we go setting unreasonably high expectations for the forums again... what will poor Tom think of us when we derail a thread to talk about
how best to blow up the stock runflat tires or start a theoretical debate on how a sentient TPMS sensors may feel living with said tires. lol
 

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I've been using a JB4 w/BT for about 12,000 miles now and haven't had any problems running a 3.5 PSI tapered boost on 92 octane fuel. I'm not concerned at all about it's impact on the engine or the warranty. As long as it's used within reasonable limits based on your fuel octane and you monitor your logs to make sure the ECM is handling AFR and the other pertinent variables properly, it's a safe mod IMHO.
 

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From what I’ve heard the belt issue (misaligned pulley) is problematic for every year. People have reported issues with 2018’s. The Infiniti bulletin might specify a specific number of vins between 16-17 but it’s happening outside these years as well.

I say pull the trigger on the Red Sport and purchase an extended warranty for CYA if your worried about issues. The power train warranty should cover you for the engine and trans for 6 or 7 years and 60 or 70k. Also just make sure your checking the belt for alignment. Infiniti should be able to help you with this. Trust me they are well aware of it.

If your not looking to do anything but enjoy the standard RS400 then go for it imo.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BXApjNU7QpjOeekiLiFv8VV_M2o149TN/view

Warranty
http://www.vadennissanservicecontracts.com/warranty/manufacturer/infiniti-extended-warranty.html
 
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