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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
update:

My dealer has replaced my electric compressor under warranty, so far things are looking good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
I would like to update everyone regarding my A/C issue fix by the dealer that is done on 2018 (replace the electric compressor and also side actuator) , sadly the problem did not go away, it is obvious that the compressor stops and then it will start after some period of time..... what a waste of time :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
update:

I took my car to the dealer for a checkup, and after investigation they found their is a drop in the pressure a/c piping system "in some situation" ; consequently the compressor stops. So the resolution was to vacuum the piping system for around 30 to 45 minutes.
I have to test the car for one week with temperature setting of 18C, and report to the dealer if I encounter the problem agane.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
update:

just to follow up after years of checkups, the problem did not go away, but it seems that it's a programming bug in the A/C computer system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
update:

After investigation they found the rusted socket that connects to the electric compressor.
93545
 

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Yikes! That's some pretty substantial corrosion on the connector. I don't suppose the car previously had a coolant leak that sprayed portions of the engine compartment? That looks to be caused by more than water. Road salts maybe?
 
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2014 Q50S Premium Hybrid AWD Black on Black
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update:

After investigation they found the rusted socket that connects to the electric compressor.
View attachment 93545
Thank you so much for updating us on the issue with the car, a lot of people have issues and never actually report back what the cause was. I am having a similar problem with the A/C on my 2014 and i will use this for troubleshooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
ok guys this is my update again:

Today I was driving at night and the temp was set to 23c and all the sudden the A/C stomped cooling; so I changed it to 18c. The A/C slowly(5-7min) it started to cool. Therefore, the issue has not been fixed.
I truly believed that this time they will fix the issue, but the fact the matter is when a customer spends 5 years back and forth with the dealer on a problem that can't be resolved; I am not confident that this will be fixed at all, just imagine if this issue is a design flaw. Anyway, If I get a good deal I will definitely sell this car and never look back.
 

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ok guys this is my update again:

Today I was driving at night and the temp was set to 23c and all the sudden the A/C stomped cooling; so I changed it to 18c. The A/C slowly(5-7min) it started to cool. Therefore, the issue has not been fixed.
I truly believed that this time they will fix the issue, but the fact the matter is when a customer spends 5 years back and forth with the dealer on a problem that can't be resolved; I am not confident that this will be fixed at all, just imagine if this issue is a design flaw. Anyway, If I get a good deal I will definitely sell this car and never look back.
It could be low hybrid battery charge, my issue was just that, after it charged up again it stopped, the compressor runs off the hybrid battery so if it's low on charge it could affect the A/C
 
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I was having this issue as well, and then I realized it was still cooling on the passenger side. Turns out it was the Blend door actuator. I couldn't find a video on how to replace it so I made one for the community. :D
 

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Thanks for taking the time to make a great video of blend door actuator replacement! Good job!
 

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Nice video. Job looks pretty straight forward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
I was having this issue as well, and then I realized it was still cooling on the passenger side. Turns out it was the Blend door actuator. I couldn't find a video on how to replace it so I made one for the community. :D
I have replaced the side actuator and also the electric compressor two years ago.... My issue is with the compressor stops for around 10 minutes and it starts back again slowly. Nevertheless, this is not occurring always and we could not replicate the scenario when we want to; it is random.
But the strange thing is when I turn off the car and back on it returns to normal, that is why I am suspecting it is from the “AMP climate control module”.

I need inexpensive OBD2 scanner that can read A/C sensors to diagnose, but many scanners can't read these sensors.
 

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I'm not sure what an "Amp climate control module" is, but if you're referring to the A/C Auto Amp it could be the problem.
 

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I was having this issue as well, and then I realized it was still cooling on the passenger side. Turns out it was the Blend door actuator. I couldn't find a video on how to replace it so I made one for the community. :D
Timing is everything. Thanks for the easy to follow video.

My car was just afflicted with that aliment over the last two weeks. The symptoms are as follows.

If the car has been sitting in the sun and is fairly warm inside the AC will blow ice out of all of the dash vents. After I drive a while the drivers side will slowly star blowing warm while passenger side continues to blow cold. If I turn the temperature way down it will blow cold on the drivers side again for a short while. Then return to warm.

Since that is such a common issue with this model I am going to assume the blend door actuator is my problem. I should be able to tackle it this week Important as I am going on vacation to the north woods for four days next week and don't need any issues.

Anybody here experience a different resolution to the issue?
 

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Replaced mine today. Thanks again to @Mods&Coffee for the helpful video. I would like to add a few things based on my experience.

It was a pretty easy job. It took about 50 minutes but I have no doubt I could do it in 20 next time. Two things slowed me down. More on that later. A couple of observations. The third panel to remove on the right side, next to the console, does not exist on my car. Probably a model year difference. I did struggle a bit with removing the vent that directs flow to the floor. He made it look easy. It is that easy. It just needs a good tug. I was reluctant to pull too hard for fear of breaking it. I got out my dental mirror to see what was going on. Once I was satisfied I pulled down and toward me and it came right off.

Now an important point. The last thing to do before the lower panel can be swung out of the way is to disconnect that wire on the right side. You notice that the black piece that the connector is plugged into has a nipple on it. That nipple has a hose connected to it that goes up under the dash. What is inside that black thing is a thermocouple. I'm betting that cabin air is drawn into that hose and across the thermocouple to get an accurate reading of cabin temperature. I did not see it in the video and no mention was made of it. I believe it disconnected and disappeared up under the dash when the panel was lowered. A very important piece. While I was at it I noticed in my almost seven year old car that some dust had accumulated on the thermocouple. I unscrewed the whole assembly and took in in the house. Sprayed it with some Awesome™ cleaner and rinsed thoroughly.

Lastly, I ran into a problem when I tried to reconnect that connector. The pins did not perfectly line up and would not go. How they could possibly get bent, even just a little bit when disconnecting the connection? I very, very carefully used a small screwdriver to push them back into position. Caused the sweats. Sometimes realigning those pins can end badly.

So, if you are fairly competent with basic tools give it a try.
 

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So, being curious like a cat I decided to open up my bad one to see how it works. There is a worm gear on a small electric motor that drives a gear, that drives another gear, that drives another gear, that drives another gear with copper contacts on it. That is a lot of reduction there. I'll assume for very fine grained adjustments.

You'll see that those contacts slide across those black semi-circles on the circuit board. I'm guessing that is some kind of resistive material. Because of the limited resolution, what you can't see is that right in the middle of the range of motion the black stuff is very glossy. Like it is worn. I suspect that contact in that area is marginal causing the motor to drift.

That assumption makes sense as some members here have reported cycling the temp up and down through the range seems to help. I believe that is true but only a temporary fix. That original part number has been superseded twice already. Perhaps the third revision that I now have in my car will outlast me.

94343
 
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So, being curious like a cat I decided to open up my bad one to see how it works. There is a worm gear on a small electric motor that drives a gear, that drives another gear, that drives another gear, that drives another gear with copper contacts on it. That is a lot of reduction there. I'll assume for very fine grained adjustments.

You'll see that those contacts slide across those black semi-circles on the circuit board. I'm guessing that is some kind of resistive material. Because of the limited resolution, what you can't see is that right in the middle of the range of motion the black stuff is very glossy. Like it is worn. I suspect that contact in that area is marginal causing the motor to drift.

That assumption makes sense as some members here have reported cycling the temp up and down through the range seems to help. I believe that is true but only a temporary fix. That original part number has been superseded twice already. Perhaps the third revision that I now have in my car will outlast me.

View attachment 94343
Excellent information! Could it be that the copper contacts aren't touching the black conductive bands in certain spots because they aren't pressing hard enough to make contact?
 
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