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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

Wanted to see if there is anything else out there that can assist in terms of handling for my AWD Q. I have it dialed in decently at the moment but am still craving for more in the handling department. Current mods that I have for handling:

-Wider wheels and tires with an SPL UPC to dial in camber
-Strut bar
-Sway bars
-Lowering springs
-Z1 bushing collars
-Z1 two piece rotors

Any other ideas? I appreciate it!
 

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Coilovers (stiffer bound and rebound compared to lowering springs with OEM shocks)
Z1 two piece rotors (lighter weight than OEM for better steering response)
Chassis supports (stiffen up the body even more for better weight transfer, will have to be custom made for AWD)
 

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It's not obvious but a tune will do wonders for handling. You'll actually have throttle response when carving turns and not have a delay.
 

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I'm assuming you have wheels and tires sorted out already? Definitely go Coilovers instead of lowering springs, you could get some unwanted chassis flex if you drop it too low. Other than that Strut tower isn't doing you much good as the car is double-wishbone (it does look awesome though). Just the wheel alignment and a bigger rear-swaybar will make a huge difference to how the AWD respond.

I'd personally skip the chassis supports unless you plan to track the car and even then I'd put an AWD controller or proper LSD in the rear before that.
 
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I'm assuming you have wheels and tires sorted out already? Definitely go Coilovers instead of lowering springs, you could get some unwanted chassis flex if you drop it too low. Other than that Strut tower isn't doing you much good as the car is double-wishbone (it does look awesome though). Just the wheel alignment and a bigger rear-swaybar will make a huge difference to how the AWD respond.

I'd personally skip the chassis supports unless you plan to track the car and even then I'd put an AWD controller or proper LSD in the rear before that.
Good call on the LSD!
 

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attend a professional driving school. after that, buy sticky tires and a better brake pad. those three items will have you going faster than pretty much anything else youll be able to spend money on.
 

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Coilovers (stiffer bound and rebound compared to lowering springs with OEM shocks)
Z1 two piece rotors (lighter weight than OEM for better steering response)
Chassis supports (stiffen up the body even more for better weight transfer, will have to be custom made for AWD)
Just wanted to point out that stiffer suspension isn't always a good thing. You actually want to use all of the suspension travel possible on a track as that will ensure good weight transfer and tire adhesion. What you don't want is uncontrolled damping. It doesn't have to be stiff to be good and though body roll "looks" bad, it's not the end of the world. Often times, an avg driver will be faster on stock suspension and semi sticky tires.

Also, nearly all of the coilover solutions available for the Q50 are either single adjustable (rebound only, like the OEM DDS) or they are tied together, with compression and rebound being adjusted simultaneously. Neither of these solutions is particularly useful outside of a beginner. Both are better than stock, once you learn how to drive.

KW used to offer better struts but they're discontinued now. At a minimum, you're going to want to look at something like Fortune Auto's Pro 2 way or Silver's NeoMax 2 way. There's ton of other options if you look around. In general, the more adjustable it is, the more it will cost.

Still, take a performance driving school, buy some sticky tires, and get some decent brake pads. Those three things will make you faster than 90% of the people on track days, regardless of vehicle.

Once you do those items, install a LSD and then coilovers.
 

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Just wanted to point out that stiffer suspension isn't always a good thing. You actually want to use all of the suspension travel possible on a track as that will ensure good weight transfer and tire adhesion. What you don't want is uncontrolled damping. It doesn't have to be stiff to be good and though body roll "looks" bad, it's not the end of the world. Often times, an avg driver will be faster on stock suspension and semi sticky tires.

Also, nearly all of the coilover solutions available for the Q50 are either single adjustable (rebound only, like the OEM DDS) or they are tied together, with compression and rebound being adjusted simultaneously. Neither of these solutions is particularly useful outside of a beginner. Both are better than stock, once you learn how to drive.

KW used to offer better struts but they're discontinued now. At a minimum, you're going to want to look at something like Fortune Auto's Pro 2 way or Silver's NeoMax 2 way. There's ton of other options if you look around. In general, the more adjustable it is, the more it will cost.

Still, take a performance driving school, buy some sticky tires, and get some decent brake pads. Those three things will make you faster than 90% of the people on track days, regardless of vehicle.

Once you do those items, install a LSD and then coilovers.
Great information and thank you for it!

For me personally and for most people, the BC coil overs where bound and rebound adjust together will be just fine. You’re absolutely right with everything you said, but let’s face it, most of us are not building actual race cars. We’re building cars that can also race. For the most part, the average person doesn’t adjust their dampening, much less alignment per track or conditions. They set to a stiffness they can accept at a height that looks cool, and they forget about it. Myself included lol.

If OP does want to build a serious machine, I’d also suggest they gut the car completely, keeping only what they absolutely must, then corner balance the car for 47/53 weight distribution front/back (in accordance with Ferrari’s math on best weight distribution) for better grip on acceleration and rotation in the corners.
 
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without tons of rabbit hole diving, the easiest way to explain why combination adjustable shocks are not the hot ticket for anything more than a very occasional track day is to explain what compression and rebound do. compression primarily handles the unsprung weight of the car and rebound handles the handling balance of the car. up to a certain degree, more of both is a good thing when compared to stock dampers. after that, it becomes a handicap to have a damper that will not allow you to change them independently as compression and rebound need to be adjusted separately in order to really dial in the platform.

if people are gonna autocross then its not gonna matter much. most courses are pretty smooth and have little camber in the track, not much benefit to that level of adjustability. however, if you plan on doing anything more than a 5 minute track outing, you will quickly want the ability to adjust things. this is especially true if you take a driving school as they'll teach you a lot of things not only about yourself, but also about the (any) car.
 

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If OP does want to build a serious machine, I’d also suggest they gut the car completely, keeping only what they absolutely must, then corner balance the car for 47/53 weight distribution front/back (in accordance with Ferrari’s math on best weight distribution) for better grip on acceleration and rotation in the corners.
I mean its a Sporty Luxury GT stripping out the interior makes zero sense to me at least, if he was gonna go that route with the VR platform he probably should have just got a Z to start. Either way the OP hasn't confirmed what his intended purpose really is for the suspension changes, although the goal of a lightweight Q50/60 is an admirable one.

That said feel like you may be confusing corner balancing and typical weight distribution? One deals with the spring rates and ride height to adjust the load at a given corner of the car with the goal usually being a 50/50 cross weight from opposite corners of the car.

The other for how much weight is actually sitting over either end of the axle, which isn't something I'd say is settled in the racing community as there are pro/cons to each but for the most part engine placement and load transfer under acceleration/braking being the biggest reason for the differences.

  • Mid Engine (RWD) 42/58 or 40/60 - Ferrari 458/C8 Corvette
  • Front Engine (RWD) 51/49 or 52/48 - C7 Corvette/BMW M4 GTS
  • Rear Engine (RWD) - 39/61 - 911 GT2 RS.
 
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I mean its a Sporty Luxury GT stripping out the interior makes zero sense to me at least, if he was gonna go that route with the VR platform he probably should have just got a Z to start. Either way the OP hasn't confirmed what his intended purpose really is for the suspension changes, although the goal of a lightweight Q50/60 is an admirable one.

That said feel like you may be confusing corner balancing and typical weight distribution? One deals with the spring rates and ride height to adjust the load at a given corner of the car with the goal usually being a 50/50 cross weight from opposite corners of the car.

The other for how much weight is actually sitting over either end of the axle, which isn't something I'd say is settled in the racing community as there are pro/cons to each but for the most part engine placement and load transfer under acceleration/braking being the biggest reason for the differences.

  • Mid Engine (RWD) 42/58 or 40/60 - Ferrari 458/C8 Corvette
  • Front Engine (RWD) 51/49 or 52/48 - C7 Corvette/BMW M4 GTS
  • Rear Engine (RWD) - 39/61 - 911 GT2 RS.
Maybe he’s a big BTCC fan and wants to build his Q like the Laser Tools Q? Lol

true, corner balancing is typically for, well, balancing the corners. But you can shift static weight some by lowering the rear more than the front. And yes, I realize there are much better ways to achieve this, such As light weight parts up front, a giant methanol tank kept full in the rear, and the most important perhaps, a big ole wing in the back for big down force once up to speed, when you actually need that weight over the tires.

And ultimately this is all an exercise in futility as odds are the OP isn’t building a true race car, and if he was he wouldn’t be asking us ‘what’s next?’ He’d be Telling the engineers on his team how he thought the car could be improved, and the engineers would be telling him ‘no, his driving needs to improve.’ Lol
 
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You have not define what handling improvements you want? to go off road, track use,1/4mile, towing a large boat? Its all about compromises.
That's not a name I've seen in a looooong time, how ya been Mva?
 
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That's not a name I've seen in a looooong time, how ya been Mva?
All good mate. Did a recent 6000km road trip with hybrid, its an epic road trip car, true GT car. The Q50 is a true sleeper, ie doesn't scream give me a ticket. I'm currently cross shopping the hybrid with something else but just hard to let go. The hybrid gives lots of bang for your bucks plus I own it outright and to finance another car just for the new car smell, meh!
 

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All good mate. Did a recent 6000km road trip with hybrid, its an epic road trip car, true GT car. The Q50 is a true sleeper, ie doesn't scream give me a ticket. I'm currently cross shopping the hybrid with something else but just hard to let go. The hybrid gives lots of bang for your bucks plus I own it outright and to finance another car just for the new car smell, meh!
6,000KM??? Yeeesh what a trip that is! I'd need to drive across Canada and then part way back to hit that in a road trip, did you do a European tour?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Coilovers (stiffer bound and rebound compared to lowering springs with OEM shocks)
Z1 two piece rotors (lighter weight than OEM for better steering response)
Chassis supports (stiffen up the body even more for better weight transfer, will have to be custom made for AWD)
Thanks for that. I actually have the two piece Z1 rotors so I edited my original post to reflect that. What kind of chassis supports are you referring to? Can you please elaborate? thanks
 

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Thanks for that. I actually have the two piece Z1 rotors so I edited my original post to reflect that. What kind of chassis supports are you referring to? Can you please elaborate? thanks
Subframe bracing primarily. Like these:


They’re easier to come by for the RWD Qs, but I don’t see why a fabricator couldn’t make some for an AWD if you can’t find an OTS solution.

also, a properly designed and build roll cage will stiffen the car up, but obviously there’s some compromise with that such as ease of ingress and egress of the vehicle and interior aesthetics.
 
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