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Jacksonville, FL
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
No effing clue. My jaw hit the floor when I unpacked them 馃ぃ
 

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2017 infiniti Q50 AWD
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The Snow Performance nozzle mount adapters just got here and they are MASSIVE. Back to the drawing board... What do you guys suggest I use to mount the nozzles to the silicone couplers in front of the TBs? @Ddnspider specified he's using a jam nut for this. However the AEM nozzles are 1/8" NPT units made out of aluminum. I can put a jam nut on but it'll never come off. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than these Snow Performance units for $67.00
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I used those snow nozzle mounts pre turbo.
You could always can the aem nozzles and use different ones.
 

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I'm in the same boat. The AEM hardware is nice however they don't include a TON of hardware required to properly install their kit. It really pisses me off as including everything required almost doubles the cost. They advertise there's built in safety features but you need to purchase additional parts to utilize them. The nozzles are 1/8" NPT and are an absolute bitch to find adapters for so you can connect them to the silicone couplers. Called up AEM and they told me to order them off the Snow Performance website 馃ぃ Then you're looking at $700.00+ for install by a reputable shop and they wouldn't do nearly as good a job as I have. You're looking at about $1,500.00 to have this kit installed on our cars.
EDIT: There's also an optional AEM WMI Solenoid $61.77 which is not required but looks to be a good safety feature that isn't included.
I outlined a list in another thread, some research could have saved you some headache and a lot of cost.

I鈥檝e installed the aem kit on 3 builds if you have any questions.

but your better off just buying the aem controller and wire harness alone not the whole kit, get the aem failsafe, a pump (pro meth is nice), numerous companies make tanks, fittings, nozzle holders, nozzles like snow, devils own, or prometh.
 
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I've used a washer/jam nut setup on my turbo LS setup drilled in a silicon coupler. Works like a champ to this day. Also used my blue/red mix of Loctite to play it safe as well. This was on a AEM kit also.







And like yall mentioned, I've used 4 different kits in the past. The only one that was almost 100% bolt on was the V3 Snow kit made specifically for my Ford. It was almost $1000 too though.

RR
 

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Jacksonville, FL
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·

Premium Member
Jacksonville, FL
Joined
524 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I outlined a list in another thread, some research could have saved you some headache and a lot of cost.

I鈥檝e installed the aem kit on 3 builds if you have any questions.

but your better off just buying the aem controller and wire harness alone not the whole kit, get the aem failsafe, a pump (pro meth is nice), numerous companies make tanks, fittings, nozzle holders, nozzles like snow, devils own, or prometh.
I figured that if I ordered the kit from Z1 and added the extra nozzle option I'd be good to go. A lot of this extra cost is because I'm taking my time and doing the best quality job I can. It looks OEM at this point. However I'll let the pictures speak for themselves once they're posted. Either way, I'm having a lot of fun and learning a lot. My first methanol install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Since I can't post more than 10 pics per post I'll add as I go.

Here's the routing of the lines from the driver's side foot well to the passenger side and up through the firewall. There's a huge factory hole there that's easy to get to if you fish the lines through with a piece of wire coat hanger (one of my fav tools 馃ぃ) Take the glove box out for much easier access. Then I ran the nylon with in-line filter, rubber and boost safe line behind the battery. Next, I drilled a hole in the PS cowling, installed a rubber grommet to clean things up and ran the lines through. Now I have to figure out how and where to mount the boost solenoid, tap the vacuum line, flush the system and mount the nozzles.
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Jacksonville, FL
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
@17awdQ50P , care to share a link?

I went with TB spacers that I will drill and tap for the nozzles.
Which spacers? I really like that idea. Be sure to share pics of this. Yeah, posting as much info as I can to help. It's a fun project but knowing everything you need up front would save a ton of time and aggravation.
 

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@17awdQ50P , care to share a link?
A link to what?

This?

 

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Then I ran the nylon with in-line filter, rubber and boost safe line behind the battery. Now I have to figure out how and where to mount the boost solenoid
flush the system.
In-line filter should be mounted pre pump in between tank and pump.

Pull the hose from the nozzles, get a connector fitting to the end and add more hose so you can easily run the added hose to a bottle/jug, and then you can use the test button on the wmi controller to clean/purge/prime/test the system. You can also add the nozzles to the end of the extra line if you wanted to test the nozzles.

I have used/use aem wmi controller, aem wmi failsafe flow gauge, aem flow control solenoid. I have not used the aem boost control solenoid with a wastegate, however I believe you need something like the wmi failsafe flow gauge to drive the boost control solenoid, in which case you can just have the wmi failsafe flow gauge wired to the ecu and control the boost/tune when failsafe is triggered through your tune not needing the boost control solenoid at all. If you are not tuning with the wmi controller/failsafe you could use the boost control solenoid however not entirely sure how your going to hookup the solenoid and wastegate, or what exactly will happen when the ecu is targeting a psi and your controlling it outside the ecus controls, of course this would only happen or be a potential issue if the failsafe triggers which hopefully is never. If you do go that route it鈥檒l be interesting how it turns out. But simpler/cheaper and more effective to tune with the failsafe in my opinion.
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Thank you for the info on proper filter placement, the clean/purge/prime/test system step and verifying the AEM Flow Control Solenoid is highly recommended. I appreciate it and I'm sure others will too 馃憤

EDIT: It doesn't seem that the AEM 30-3020 is still available. AEM-35-2128 is the replacement. TIA
 

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Thank you for the info on proper filter placement, the clean/purge/prime/test system step and verifying the AEM Flow Control Solenoid is the correct option for the failsafe. I appreciate it and I'm sure others will too 馃憤
The aem flow control solenoid you posted is to immediately shutdown/block flow from syphoning or from pressure bleed off, keeps the fluid and pressure in the lines for better on/off precision and response.

the aem failsafe is.
AEM Electronics Water/Methanol FAILSAFE Devices 30-3020
This monitors flow and some other electrical things and send a 0-5v output you can wire to 0-5v input on ecu. And/or connect to your boost control solenoid.
 
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Thank you for the info on proper filter placement, the clean/purge/prime/test system step and verifying the AEM Flow Control Solenoid is highly recommended. I appreciate it and I'm sure others will too 馃憤

EDIT: It doesn't seem that the AEM 30-3020 is still available. AEM-35-2128 is the replacement. TIA
AEM 35-2128 is just the replacement for the sensor/meter portion, not the entire kit with the necessary gauge and wire harness.

It does seem AEM discontinued it that is a bummer, wonder if they'll have a new replacement product. Either way plenty of vendors still have inventory available to purchase the AEM 30-3020
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Either way plenty of vendors still have inventory available to purchase the AEM 30-3020
Just spoke with AEM and they specified the AEM 30-3020 kit would be a redundant addition to my setup (even if I wasn't tuned). They instructed me to contact my tuner and work to integrate the boost safe function with my ECU. It would be nice if their install instructions were more detailed. All that's stated is the purpose of the boost safe function. How to install it or if there's additional hardware required is nowhere to be found. I'll reach out to Z1 and report back here.
 

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Just spoke with AEM and they specified the AEM 30-3020 kit would be a redundant addition to my setup (even if I wasn't tuned). They instructed me to contact my tuner and work to integrate the boost safe function with my ECU. It would be nice if their install instructions were more detailed. All that's stated is the purpose of the boost safe function. How to install it or if there's additional hardware required is nowhere to be found. I'll reach out to Z1 and report back here.
I never used the AEM boost control solenoid paired to the WMI controller for purpose of failsafe, I would imagine green wire goes to boost control solenoid, and the other boost control solenoid wire goes to switched 12v, the boost control solenoid vacuum lines go to a wastegate and a boost side air source, when triggered the solenoid valve opens allowing pressured air to open the wastegate but I am not sure how the solenoid or the WMI controller would have any connection to or interaction with the ECU to allow it to be integrated into the tune like the WMI Failsafe Gauge allows with the 0-5V output to one of the 0-5V inputs on the ECU such as pin 60. Perhaps I am just ignorant to its full capabilities or different ways to utilize it though. I do utilize a boost control solenoid on my supercharged setup right now to bleed excess boost with a BOV, little different setup/scenario though and it has nothing to do with the WMI setup, the ECU drives the solenoid in this case.

The WMI controller does have some built in checks for various electrical controller type issues, and fluid level sensor and will flash in certain sequence to let you know what the reason for the code is if you check the code reference, and with those faults it can trigger the boost control solenoid to open, so it would allow the reduction of boost but nothing with the tune or Timing/AFR. but the primary issue/risk of WMI in my opinion is clogged or faulty nozzles, lines that have cracked or popped off the fitting which could lessen pressure/flow to the nozzles, leaky fittings, or a fluid flow solenoid that has an issue and wont open, those the WMI controller does not know, the WMI Failsafe Gauge would recognize those however since those will cause fluid flow to deviate from the set parameters you setup on the failsafe, and then any issue detected can be triggered sending 0-5v signal to the ECU to have the tune automatically adjust whatever parameters you like such as AFR, timing, and/or boost.

I am not sure how confident I would be in using a wastegate controlled by a boost control solenoid driven solely by the WMI controller for the failsafe especially when we have wastegates controlled by the ECU to tune boost already.

Beyond the added control and checks the WMI failsafe gauge provides it is also pretty simple and clear to wire up and plum into the system.
The boost control solenoid you are on uncharted waters unless you can find some other forums with more information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Hi guys. What's the cleanest spot to T-off for manifold pressure? If you know where please share a pic and the size of the tubing in that location as well. This install is taking quite some time because I'm doing everything as clean as possible, taking meticulous notes/pics to share here and am in the middle of moving. TIA
 

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Hi guys. What's the cleanest spot to T-off for manifold pressure? If you know where please share a pic and the size of the tubing in that location as well. This install is taking quite some time because I'm doing everything as clean as possible, taking meticulous notes/pics to share here and am in the middle of moving. TIA
 
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The driverside of the upper intake manifold that has a port used for the PCV that connects to the DS valve cover. Very easy to put a T in there and connect for a monitoring pressure or using a pressure switch.
 
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