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2017 infiniti Q50 AWD
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I do not solely blame it on the the rotors, But the rotors warped and had heat markings on it. I cannot seem to find a pad that suits me, having already tried 4 different pads/rotors.
Doing 140-0 with a 4000lbs vehicle is going to generate a lot of heat in the rotor, doing it a few times I'm not surprised they started to warp. Sounds like you need a good BBK.
Do you know the diameter and thickness of your SP P SDR?
 
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2017 Q50 Silver Sport VR30DDTT
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Doing 140-0 with a 4000lbs vehicle is going to generate a lot of heat in the rotor, doing it a few times I'm not surprised they started to warp. Sounds like you need a good BBK.
Do you know the diameter and thickness of your SP P SDR?
I did not think that it would happen this fast, but I understand why it happened lol. Diameter was like stock, I believe 14"(?), not sure of the thickness. Is the BBK better than the Z1 2 piece? The thought of them being lighter is attractive
 

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I did not think that it would happen this fast, but I understand why it happened lol. Diameter was like stock, I believe 14"(?), not sure of the thickness. Is the BBK better than the Z1 2 piece? The thought of them being lighter is attractive
A true BBK is, just noticed you have sport brakes. The sports brakes are technically a BBK compared to the standard non sport brakes. but obviously different tiers and levels to everything.
I'd say
Standard non sport is Tier 1
Sport Tier 2
Z1 2pc Tier 2.5
True BBK Tier 3+ depending on which one like AP, wilwood, stoptech etc...

The 2pc will probably be a very slight upgrade in performance to what you have, but if you are planning on doing a lot of 140-0s on a routine basis I'd probably move up to a True BBK.
 
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Newport, Oregon
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Just because you have heat markings on the rotor doesn't mean it's warped. Have you checked the lateral runout of your rotors? Is there glazing on the rotors? Have you checked the torque on your wheel lug nuts to make sure they are equal and in-spec?
 

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2017 Q50 Silver Sport VR30DDTT
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Just because you have heat markings on the rotor doesn't mean it's warped. Have you checked the lateral runout of your rotors? Is there glazing on the rotors? Have you checked the torque on your wheel lug nuts to make sure they are equal and in-spec?
The lug nuts were all torqued to spec during installation. Have not checked the runout... After the runs, the brakes shake horribly and there is glazing. It has been about two weeks since and after some more hard braking here and there it has gotten a little better, but my confidence has decreased significantly.
 

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Newport, Oregon
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The lug nuts were all torqued to spec during installation. Have not checked the runout... After the runs, the brakes shake horribly and there is glazing. It has been about two weeks since and after some more hard braking here and there it has gotten a little better, but my confidence has decreased significantly.
Rotors have to get really hot, like 1500-2000°F hot to cause warp. G3000 and G4000 gray cast iron (most common rotor metal) melts at 2093°F.

At about 850°, pads will start to smoke.
At 1100°, pad friction material begins to oxidize.
At 1200°, pad friction material begins to carbonize.
At 1400°, Rotor discoloration and glazing.

Still not hot enough to soften the rotors enough to warp. The fact that you say your brake judder has decreased over time would make me suspect you're wearing the pad glazing off the rotors with subsequent hard braking rather than having warped rotors.

Fine grit garnet sandpaper and a sanding block can remove glazing from the rotors. If you try this, don't use aluminum oxide sandpaper as the oxide will permeate the cast iron and can cause chatter or squeal. You might try having the rotors turned if there's enough remaining thickness to do so. Inspect your pads for glazing also. Some more brake bedding may help remove/evenly distribute pad material on the rotors too.
 

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2017 Q50 Silver Sport VR30DDTT
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Rotors have to get really hot, like 1500-2000°F hot to cause warp. G3000 and G4000 gray cast iron (most common rotor metal) melts at 2093°F.

At about 850°, pads will start to smoke.
At 1100°, pad friction material begins to oxidize.
At 1200°, pad friction material begins to carbonize.
At 1400°, Rotor discoloration and glazing.

Still not hot enough to soften the rotors enough to warp. The fact that you say your brake judder has decreased over time would make me suspect you're wearing the pad glazing off the rotors with subsequent hard braking rather than having warped rotors.

Fine grit garnet sandpaper and a sanding block can remove glazing from the rotors. If you try this, don't use aluminum oxide sandpaper as the oxide will permeate the cast iron and can cause chatter or squeal. You might try having the rotors turned if there's enough remaining thickness to do so. Inspect your pads for glazing also. Some more brake bedding may help remove/evenly distribute pad material on the rotors too.
Thats a possibility, I dont think that I will resurface them. The Z1 2 piece seems tempting just due to the weight savings alone. I should have learned from my Jeep: Never ever skimp out on brakes.
 

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2017 Q50 Red Sport 400 RWD
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Thats a possibility, I dont think that I will resurface them. The Z1 2 piece seems tempting just due to the weight savings alone. I should have learned from my Jeep: Never ever skimp out on brakes.
Make sure you buy the 'package' (F+R), not F and R separately. I think it saves $50 bucks.
 
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2017 Q50 Silver Sport VR30DDTT
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Make sure you buy the 'package' (F+R), not F and R separately. I think it saves $50 bucks.
Should I also buy the caliper rebuild kits?
 

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2017 Q50 Red Sport 400 RWD
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Should I also buy the caliper rebuild kits?
I say no. I'm willing to bet you'll never need them. No need to spend $700 now just to have them stored in your garage for years. You might consider new pads too at the same time. I kept my OEM pads. It took a while to get properly bedded/mated. I would hear a zzzzzzzz zipper sound for the first few weeks. They are good now.
 
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