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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Now that my coilovers have settled, I got a four wheel alignment done. I didn’t go for the 4 corner balance though.

I should have checked in here first. I told them to just set it for good tire wear. It’s not like I’m tracking it or anything. Do these specs look good?

When I researched my tire set up I wanted to keep the circumference as close as I could to stock and keep the front and rear as close as possible I went with this set up.

Konig Oversteer Wheels 19x8.5 +30, 19x9.5 +40. Continental Extreme Contacts 245/40, 275/35. Tein Flex Z Coilovers.

When I used the calculator the front and rear offsets aligned almost perfectly. I’m disappointed in the front fitment though, too sucked in. At least the tires are the right width and circumference.

I should have went with @Scary s set up but I thought it might be a bit of a poke, maybe rub, and I really wanted 275’s in the rear. That wheel size was of of stock too.

I’m hoping the alignment made the front look a tad better. I can’t really tell.

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Discussion Starter #3

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Am I reading your sheet correctly?

You have -2 degrees of camber all around?

That is completely unnecessary on your car.

My G35 is running coilovers with 255 front and 285 rear. For now, my fronts are -1.5 and rears are -1.0.

Your signature does not indicate a rear anti-sway bar, so you shouldn't need extra negative camber.

Question: How does the car drive now? If you drive it at or near the limit on a long turn (right or left doesn't matter), does the car feel neutral? Does it push? Does it overteer? This is all without mashing the gas...just a continuous turn.

You want just a touch of understeer for a RWD car.

Find a safe place to try and try several times until you know exactly what the car is doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Am I reading your sheet correctly?

You have -2 degrees of camber all around?

That is completely unnecessary on your car.

My G35 is running coilovers with 255 front and 285 rear. For now, my fronts are -1.5 and rears are -1.0.

Your signature does not indicate a rear anti-sway bar, so you shouldn't need extra negative camber.

Question: How does the car drive now? If you drive it at or near the limit on a long turn (right or left doesn't matter), does the car feel neutral? Does it push? Does it overteer? This is all without mashing the gas...just a continuous turn.

You want just a touch of understeer for a RWD car.

Find a safe place to try and try several times until you know exactly what the car is doing.
Thanks for chiming in. I’m not well versed regarding alignment, obviously. I guess this is what I get for not going in with specific settings.

Yes, apparently it’s at -2. When I went in the guy said that it was at a pretty negative camber, I figured it was adjusted.

When I went from stock to coil overs, I knew that lowering it would change the camber and affect tire wear. So after it settled in, I took it in for adjustment. I expected it that it would need it. Looks like they didn’t change it.

I do not have an after market anti-sway bar.

The ride felt great after the initial installation and handling felt fine. It pulled to the right just a tad. It feels better now, no pull when I brake with my hands off the wheel.

Initially, I thought that it had a bit of oversteer, nothing crazy. It doesn’t feel much different now, just a bit more centered. Stock, it felt like it dug in when turning into a corner, then roll/fade out. Now it initially bites and then just keeps digging in.

I must say that I don’t often push it very hard. I’ll have to go out and give it a try. Thanks again.
 

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I just remembered that I have SPL front and rear control arms. Without those, you can not adjust your camber.

For you, the only way to remove some of that negative camber is by raising the ride height (not for you to do but for a shop to do and re-align the car...you can't just raise and lower the suspension without an alignment).

At a -2, you are going to wear the inside quite a bit especially if you are not really pushing the car through turns and if you have long commutes.

You can always wait and see how the tires wear. If it starts looking bad, think about either raising the car and doing another alignment or getting adjustable control arms.

Note that your springs are going to settle. You may end up at -2.2 or more after 1000 miles or so depending on how much you push the car.

Did they tell you after how many miles you should get another alignment?
 

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In the spirit of this thread, I am also interested in Tein coilovers for my 16 rwd premium. I don't really want to lower it (minimum ride height change) just need stiffer ride, better stability at higher speeds and when braking. With stock suspension, under hard breaking car feels not planted, doesn't pull in any direction, just too soft for my liking, less confidence inspiring if I can put it that way.
My question is, if I lower minimally with tein flex, can I get by without camber arms?
I have stillen rear sway bar but I don't track my car. Just spirited driving here and there. 18x8.5 enkei raijin wheels with 245/45 cooper zeon rs3-g1 tires.
Switching the tires from the 17 runflats to 18 standard made a big improvement in floaty feel ride but I would like to make it tighter.
 

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In the spirit of this thread, I am also interested
You have RWD with 245 all around?

Have you considered F/R anti-sway bars? This goes against my methodology, but if you are looking for a "cheap" way to have a bit more stability, you may try this.
 

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I did not do the staggered setup for budget reasons, as you guessed. I have a rear stillen ASB and in corners the car feels good. I can add a front one if that will help the stability when pushing the car. Although I’ve read recommendations that on rwd is not worth doing fron ASB. It can be confusing. So, if coilovers would bring larger improvement I would rather do that. Sorry if I sound all over the place but I am not very knowledgeable on suspension topics.
 

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I did not do the staggered setup for budget reasons, as you guessed. I have a rear stillen ASB and in corners the car feels good. I can add a front one if that will help the stability when pushing the car. Although I’ve read recommendations that on rwd is not worth doing fron ASB. It can be confusing. So, if coilovers would bring larger improvement I would rather do that. Sorry if I sound all over the place but I am not very knowledgeable on suspension topics.
The AWD version has a stiffer front ASB than the RWD version so you may benefit from upgrading the front ASB.
 

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I did not do the staggered setup for budget reasons, as you guessed. I have a rear stillen ASB and in corners the car feels good. I can add a front one if that will help the stability when pushing the car. Although I’ve read recommendations that on rwd is not worth doing fron ASB. It can be confusing. So, if coilovers would bring larger improvement I would rather do that. Sorry if I sound all over the place but I am not very knowledgeable on suspension topics.
I have no idea about the balance of your car (understeer/oversteer).

If I were a betting man, I'd bet that you have a touch of oversteer. You are RWD with a rear anti-sway bar and square tire setup. Your rear anti-sway bar pushes the rear out, but your rear doesn't have more tire than the front to compensate.

If you want better handling, you are gonna have to spend a bit more than just coilovers. That is why I suggested the anti-sway bars for both front and rear.

Wheels/tires (can be 18, but look at the official wheel and tire fitment thread to get your width and offset numbers)
Coilovers (I'd get the HKS unit)
Adjustable control arms and F/R anti-sway bars

This setup will cost between 6K and 10K depending on what you buy.
 
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