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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been looking to get a 2018 for a while now, but as I do more and more research, I hear that some 2018s also have the same problems, mostly the early year 2018s, I just want to hear from people who have 2018s and have these issues, and 2019+ people who might have had these issues, thanks everyone
 

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so far knock on wood my 18 red sport has been good. Ive also only had it for less than 6 months and got it with 40k on it. Had to replace my drive belt but that was easy. So far no turbo issues 馃
 

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I have been looking to get a 2018 for a while now, but as I do more and more research, I hear that some 2018s also have the same problems, mostly the early year 2018s, I just want to hear from people who have 2018s and have these issues, and 2019+ people who might have had these issues, thanks everyone
2018 RS coming up on 5 years in a couple months. Changed to a Gates belt @ 20K miles even though no apparent wear or damage on OEM. No turbo or belt problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
so far knock on wood my 18 red sport has been good. Ive also only had it for less than 6 months and got it with 40k on it. Had to replace my drive belt but that was easy. So far no turbo issues 馃
Thanks for your input bro hopefully you don鈥檛 run into issues, you thinking of getting ekutek tuned? I see your on jb4
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
2018 RS coming up on 5 years in a couple months. Changed to a Gates belt @ 20K miles even though no apparent wear or damage on OEM. No turbo or belt problems.
How many miles you at bro? You thinking of getting tuned or are U comfortable with just a jb4
 

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How many miles you at bro? You thinking of getting tuned or are U comfortable with just a jb4
Coming up on 24K miles. I may go with a Racebox tune after my drivetrain warranty expires but for now, the JB4 and pedal controller provides plenty of get up and go. Keep in mind that I have replaced the OEM exhaust with a FI CBE and HKS LDPs. The combination of those four mods made a world of difference over stock without a tune.
 

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Belt issues should be sorted as of 2018 MY any used car should already be addressed by this point, but many swapped to Gates belts just to be safe as its cheap and some peace of mind.
As for the turbos they seem to be far less frequent an issue on the 2019 MY but that could be down to how many people bought the car, how many miles they have at this point, limited perception Z
from the forums etc.

Ultimately I'd say make sure you have a few years of warranty/extended warranty just to be on the safe side.
 

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24k miles in 5 years!?
Another low mileage example here - my '17 Q60 has 31k miles on it, and I've had it since December 2016. No turbo issues and I changed out the OEM belt for Gates @ 25k miles.

Blame 100% WFH since March 2020, and not alot of on-the-road travelling since that time either. At least we have been flying much more this year, and my business travel has picked up.

Planning a road trip to CO in the Fall, but will likely take our other vehicle, a '21 Audi SQ5.
 

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Another low mileage example here - my '17 Q60 has 31k miles on it, and I've had it since December 2016. No turbo issues and I changed out the OEM belt for Gates @ 25k miles.

Blame 100% WFH since March 2020, and not alot of on-the-road travelling since that time either. At least we have been flying much more this year, and my business travel has picked up.

Planning a road trip to CO in the Fall, but will likely take our other vehicle, a '21 Audi SQ5.
Ah that makes sense, my 2019 is up to I believe 16k. Is it mostly a weekend car for you as well? I'd imagine the SQ5 would suit grocery getter a bit better with more room and what not.
 

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No issues here on my 2020 Q50RS @ 25k miles and still going strong.
 

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FWIW, there are 5- 2019 cars in my failed turbo threads.
 

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24k miles in 5 years!?
Yep. Whenever I decide to sell, someone is going to get a creampuff of an RS with a bunch of basic mods they would probably do anyway. Just look at my signature for the list. I don't track the car, street race, or beat on it.
 

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One nuance with these turbo failures. My '17 Q60S has the oldest revision VR30-specific Garrett turbos. If I were to read all the doom and gloom, these turbos should have already failed. However, a little care and feeding goes a long way. 5K OCIs, good quality oil, waiting for oil temps to stabilize before serious boosting, no high-boost events followed by a hot shut-down, etc.

I'd also say it is rare for my VR30 to see high rpms (above 5.5k rpms) during my daily drives, as the small squirrels with the Ecutek tune and 3" DPs work best down low-to-midrange, making the 500+ WTQ from 3-5k rpms. I can short-shift all day and leave almost 98% of other vehicles in my rear view mirror. In fact, I've joked to @JohnInNH that 2nd gear is the money gear, in that I will gap a most big V8s once I get into 2nd gear and take advantage of the wide torque plateau. Instead of turbo failures, I should be more worried about con rod and low end bearing failures, but maybe the film strength of the 5W oil is helping (oh, no venturing into the 0W to 5W comparison discussion in 3,2,1...). In a nutshell, how you drive your Q will definitely influence the turbo's life expectancy.
 
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One nuance with these turbo failures. My '17 Q60S has the oldest revision VR30-specific Garrett turbos. If I were to read all the doom and gloom, these turbos should have already failed. However, a little care and feeding goes a long way. 5K OCIs, good quality oil, waiting for oil temps to stabilize before serious boosting, no high-boost events followed by a hot shut-down, etc.

I'd also say it is rare for my VR30 to see high rpms (above 5.5k rpms) during my daily drives, as the small squirrels with the Ecutek tune and 3" DPs work best down low-to-midrange, making the 500+ WTQ from 3-5k rpms. I can short-shift all day and leave almost 98% of other vehicles in my rear view mirror. In fact, I've joked to @JohnInNH that 2nd gear is the money gear, in that I will gap a most big V8s once I get into 2nd gear and take advantage of the wide torque plateau. Instead of turbo failures, I should be more worried about con rod and low end bearing failures, but maybe the film strength of the 5W oil is helping (oh, no venturing into the 0W to 5W comparison discussion in 3,2,1...). In a nutshell, how you drive your Q will definitely influence the turbo's life expectancy.
Hence why I think I haven't had any turbo failures either. My car rarely sees WOT or redline shifts and I keep the OCIs at 5K.
 

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One nuance with these turbo failures. My '17 Q60S has the oldest revision VR30-specific Garrett turbos. If I were to read all the doom and gloom, these turbos should have already failed. However, a little care and feeding goes a long way. 5K OCIs, good quality oil, waiting for oil temps to stabilize before serious boosting, no high-boost events followed by a hot shut-down, etc.

I'd also say it is rare for my VR30 to see high rpms (above 5.5k rpms) during my daily drives, as the small squirrels with the Ecutek tune and 3" DPs work best down low-to-midrange, making the 500+ WTQ from 3-5k rpms. I can short-shift all day and leave almost 98% of other vehicles in my rear view mirror. In fact, I've joked to @JohnInNH that 2nd gear is the money gear, in that I will gap a most big V8s once I get into 2nd gear and take advantage of the wide torque plateau. Instead of turbo failures, I should be more worried about con rod and low end bearing failures, but maybe the film strength of the 5W oil is helping (oh, no venturing into the 0W to 5W comparison discussion in 3,2,1...). In a nutshell, how you drive your Q will definitely influence the turbo's life expectancy.
nothing you said is relevant to turbo failure rates with this engine. if theyre going to fail, theyre going to fail. id venture to say that theres probably several people on this forum that are in very beginning stages of failure but dont recognize it.

my car was still on a stock tune and i treated it exactly as you did, they still failed. i didnt own it for the first 38k miles but looking at the oil change history, it was cared for enough that it shouldnt have been an issue. i too changed the oil frequently, waited for oil temps to be at a decent temp before driving it, let it idle for 1-2 minutes before shutdown on longer trips, all the normal crap. none of it mattered, its a design flaw. its not an oil viscosity issue either as people have run 30w and even 40w still experience failures. thats documented here and (ugh) on facebook too.

it took MONTHS between the first time and the repeat occurrence of oil coming out of the exhaust. even then, it had to be a very specific set of conditions before it would happen again. the dealer had my car over a week before they could reproduce the conditions. if i lived up north, id still probably not be aware of the issue. it had to be 85 degrees plus outside, having driven the car a solid 20+ minutes, and even then it had to idle for 3-5 minutes before it would smoke. once it started though, it was there to stay. most people arent as observant about that kind of thing (dont blame them) so it might be a year or more before its noticed but by then, its really bad and now you have pieces of turbo journal bearing and metal sloshing around your engine. the engine burns oil, it runs low, and now you know why there are so many engine failures in VR30s. its due to flawed turbo seals and negligent owners.

you are wrong concerning your understanding of oil. the 0 and the 5 are cold flow oil temp ratings, NOT hot flow. the 20 and 30 are what youll be looking for minimum oil film strength. so long as temperatures are monitored, a 20 weight oil is fine for this engine, hp and tw amounts are irrelevant. if the oil gets hotter and/or stay hotter, then swap to a higher weight oil. i would venture to stay that if youre seeing 230+ degree oil temps sustained, a 30w oil would be a wise choice as the film strength of a 30w oil at 230 degrees is very roughly equivalent to a 20w at 200-210 degrees. if you are avg joe and put-put around with an occasional blast here 'n there, 20w is fine.

concerning rod n main bearings, the tolerances are extremely tight so you NEED a thinner oil to adequately fill the space. contrary to understanding, thinner clearances actually INCREASE the load carrying capacity of the oil because the load gets more evenly spread out across the bearing surface. though a 20w is is spec'd, a 30w or even a 40w oil wont cause problems in the engine either, provided you wait until the oil is viscous enough to easily flow through the engine.
 

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May 2022
2019 Luxe Mileage 12,850
Drivers side turbo leaking dealer replaced under warranty
 

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2018 Luxe - 65k miles original belt and turbos. Been running JB4 since I bought the car at about 33k miles.
 
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