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Here, found it in the FSM. BG is Beige.

Striped wires use a slash. So, Blue with a Green stripe would be L/G


92197
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
From what I've read about wiring codes, the BG wire code is beige or tan. If it were blue with a green stripe, it would be listed as L/G.
 

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From what I've read about wiring codes, the BG wire code is beige or tan. If it were blue with a green stripe, it would be listed as L/G.
Is there an echo in here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
Great minds think alike.
 
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Great minds think alike.
lol, I see what happened. You were replying on page 9 and you hadn't seen my reply on page 10 yet.

Dude, we knew something about electrical wiring that sil8 didn't! Let's gloat while we can - until the next time he shows off his electronics wizardry and humbles us. ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
The Spud will lord it over you from this point hence.
 

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Did any of you actually install the reverse light? If so, could you post an image of how it looks like?
Yes, I installed it. Not perfect, but it helps. Within these 10 pages, I am pretty sure I posted pics of it before and after. I don't think we ever saw pics of 53's final outcome though.

It makes my AM radio staticy when in reverse. I even tried those ferrite chokes. :(
 

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Did any of you actually install the reverse light? If so, could you post an image of how it looks like?
I did this last month. The LED bar I bought was a 7" and it came in a pack of two. At the time I took the pictures, I only installed one of them, then I installed the second one a week later after realizing It's just going to be sitting in a corner if I don't install it.

There was an opening conveniently in the middle of where the bumper was which I used to route the wires. I soldered the existing wires on the led with longer wires to reach the connector behind the passenger break lights shown in picture 3. In my case, I paralleled the two lights wires together. I used pins 2 and 11 on the connector for power. That gray cable shown in the picture was just a cat5 cable I used to fish the actual wires up to where I needed them lol. So just lift up the carpet, remove the foam piece, and move aside the dampening material a little and the hole is accessible. As for the connector, use a screw drive and remove some pins and squeeze your hands in and use some posti pins to connect the wires on. Also used washers and loctite on the LED bar just incase.

I only connect my phone to listen to music so don't know about the radio static like @ptatohed mentioned. But the addition of the lights made a big difference. The trick is to aim them up and not pointed at the ground or the camera gets saturated.

 

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
Yes, I installed it. Not perfect, but it helps. Within these 10 pages, I am pretty sure I posted pics of it before and after. I don't think we ever saw pics of 53's final outcome though.

It makes my AM radio staticy when in reverse. I even tried those ferrite chokes. :(
I flipped the frame so the LEDs were on the bottom instead of the top as it washed out the camera image.

Vehicle registration plate Automotive exterior Font Gas Signage
 

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I did this last month. The LED bar I bought was a 7" and it came in a pack of two. At the time I took the pictures, I only installed one of them, then I installed the second one a week later after realizing It's just going to be sitting in a corner if I don't install it.

There was an opening conveniently in the middle of where the bumper was which I used to route the wires. I soldered the existing wires on the led with longer wires to reach the connector behind the passenger break lights shown in picture 3. In my case, I paralleled the two lights wires together. I used pins 2 and 11 on the connector for power. That gray cable shown in the picture was just a cat5 cable I used to fish the actual wires up to where I needed them lol. So just lift up the carpet, remove the foam piece, and move aside the dampening material a little and the hole is accessible. As for the connector, use a screw drive and remove some pins and squeeze your hands in and use some posti pins to connect the wires on. Also used washers and loctite on the LED bar just incase.

I only connect my phone to listen to music so don't know about the radio static like @ptatohed mentioned. But the addition of the lights made a big difference. The trick is to aim them up and not pointed at the ground or the camera gets saturated.

Nice write up. Thanks for sharing parodoxx. Would you mind putting on an AM station and putting the car in reverse to see if you get static?

I am happy with my illumination improvement but not elated. Maybe I need to aim mine up a little higher as you mentioned.

Looks like you did a good job but I've never liked running wires around the perimeter of a grommet, pinched between the grommet and metal chassis. I think, over time, the wire insulation can get stripped or severed and you could be looking at a short. I really like the route I found for my wires. Maybe reconsider a different route. But, great work parodoxx!





I flipped the frame so the LEDs were on the bottom instead of the top as it washed out the camera image.

View attachment 104606


You still owe us before / after pics Metal Head!
 

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Looks like you did a good job but I've never liked running wires around the perimeter of a grommet, pinched between the grommet and metal chassis. I think, over time, the wire insulation can get stripped or severed and you could be looking at a short. I really like the route I found for my wires. Maybe reconsider a different route. But, great work parodoxx!
I agree. Cut a small slit in the center of the plug, run the wires through, and put a dab of silicone over the cut area. Replacement plugs are easy to find if you want one later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #195 ·
Nice write up. Thanks for sharing parodoxx. Would you mind putting on an AM station and putting the car in reverse to see if you get static?

I am happy with my illumination improvement but not elated. Maybe I need to aim mine up a little higher as you mentioned.

Looks like you did a good job but I've never liked running wires around the perimeter of a grommet, pinched between the grommet and metal chassis. I think, over time, the wire insulation can get stripped or severed and you could be looking at a short. I really like the route I found for my wires. Maybe reconsider a different route. But, great work parodoxx!









You still owe us before / after pics Metal Head!
The before picture would show basically darkness, no different than what everyone else sees. The VLED improved visibility when the car is put in reverse but I wouldn't say it's ideal. It's just better than nothing. The root cause of the poor visibility at night is the camera's poor light sensitivity. Our cameras have a minimum brightness of 2 lux, which these days is prehistoric. You can find backup cameras for $30 or less on Amazon with 0.01 lux minimum brightness. If I could find a replacement that was plug and play with the car's wiring and compatible with AroundView, I'd replace all four cameras or at least the rear camera.
 

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Nice write up. Thanks for sharing parodoxx. Would you mind putting on an AM station and putting the car in reverse to see if you get static?

I am happy with my illumination improvement but not elated. Maybe I need to aim mine up a little higher as you mentioned.

Looks like you did a good job but I've never liked running wires around the perimeter of a grommet, pinched between the grommet and metal chassis. I think, over time, the wire insulation can get stripped or severed and you could be looking at a short. I really like the route I found for my wires. Maybe reconsider a different route. But, great work parodoxx!









You still owe us before / after pics Metal Head!
How bad of a static are you getting? I switched to the traffic AM station and put it in reverse and I'm not noticing anything terrible although I don't have a no light reference to compare.
I'm thinking it might be your lights backfeeding into the system. Try adding a capacitor in parallel to the lights. This essentially creates a LC filter that reduces electrical noise. Something like this

Aim them up for sure. The hotspot on the floor messes up the image on the cameras. My lights are angled up and that made the image look normal for me.

I agree. Cut a small slit in the center of the plug, run the wires through, and put a dab of silicone over the cut area. Replacement plugs are easy to find if you want one later.
Exactly what I did afterwards. I didn't have the right size shrink wrap at the time I took the photos. Poked a hole and stuck the wires in and resoldered.
 
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