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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Thanks for the write up. Can you take pics of where you tapped for positive (and negative/ground)? If you need some posi-taps, I can mail you some. Dude, I like it, I am just not crazy about those 'yellow' diodes. I think I would hit it with some Nite Shade.
The Posi-Taps are on the way so thanks anyway. I just tapped into pin #2 (tan) for positive and pin #4 (black) for ground on the connector going to the trunk side light. Don't trust wire colors as they may vary. Go by pin position and test with a multimeter.

From a distance, the diodes don't really stand out. Sorry, but I don't see why I would attenuate the light with paint after adding light due to poor visibility. The yellow doesn't bother me. I think your mudder light bar will be a lot more noticeable than this.

 

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I would agree, except that the part numbers haven't changed from 2014, the 5 wire are used for Around view only, regular reverse gets the 4 wire. 4 wire systems can get replacement cameras, the 5 wires can't. All cameras gather at the Around view unit then get sent off to the screen through the 4 wire camera input
I think it was decided in the FB group when they did a camera buy for the non Around view systems, that while camera improvement is possible, it is the Around View (people posted pictures from Base Q50a models that did not have the Around view and it looked significantly better) that is causing the issues. I had a loaner Q30 without the around view and it's camera quality and nightime view were head and shoulders above the one on my Redsport.

I do think adding light will help in reversing , especially if you added tint, as more light to the rear when backing up is always a good thing, but it might not improve the camera quality that much.
 

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The Posi-Taps are on the way so thanks anyway. I just tapped into pin #2 (tan) for positive and pin #4 (black) for ground on the connector going to the trunk side light. Don't trust wire colors as they may vary. Go by pin position and test with a multimeter.

From a distance, the diodes don't really stand out. Sorry, but I don't see why I would attenuate the light with paint after adding light due to poor visibility. The yellow doesn't bother me. I think your mudder light bar will be a lot more noticeable than this.

In for night pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
I should just hook my rear-facing IR dashcam into the car!
 
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Seems like to me ever since Renault took over Nissan/Infiniti overall build quality and reliability have tanked. I was told recently by a Infiniti Tech that they rarely see a 1990's Q45 or any other models from that era with any major problems, they seem to be built
with a much better standard of quality...

Perhaps with the recent shake-up at Nissan/Infiniti and the recently advertised down sizing due to global events and such, maybe Nissan/Infiniti will hopefully concentrate
on drastically improving build quality, design, and technology especially at their Infiniti division...Oh yah, how about honoring and extending their warranties
when they have known issues like bad turbo's and fuel injectors, etc.
The Infiniti techs are probably looking at cars that have been entirely rebuilt or dutifully cared for by the owners, for every one they see there is thousands
that have rusted out or were poorly taken care of and long since shredded. The 300ZX is a 90's car and often sung high praises but it wasn't a very reliable
platform when you actually take closer look.

Not to say there hasn't been cost cutting at Nissan, after-all it was run by the man dubbed "the cost cutter" for 2 decades. But the major components like engine and transmissions
are all still largely built in-house by Nissan and very reliable. Even the VR30 for a brand new top/bottom performance motor has had very few issues in reality, the only real problem have
been the turbos and belt issues. If we compare it to the issues BMW had with it's engines from 2011-2015 Infiniti is doing a great job.

As for fuel injector failings the majority of cases due the usage of ethanol mixes being used, Nissan specifically called out in the manual
not to use higher concentration Eth blends.

I'm 100% behind you when it comes to honor warranties however, granted thats not an uncommon horror story
from most brands these days. Audi/BMW and Toyota are really the only ones who seem to willing perform recalls
and go above expectations for warranties.
 
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Audi/BMW and Toyota are really the only ones who seem to willing perform recalls and go above expectations for warranties.
Just don't flash your Audi ECM while you are within their 4-yr/50k mile warranty, otherwise you risk a "TD1" black mark in your file and the remainder of the powertrain warranty goes bye-bye!

I waited to get an APR tune on my Allroad until the powertrain warranty expired. :cautious:
 
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I can't tell that my Nite Shade spray has diminished light output much, if at all. Tomorrow, I may try a mock-up of it in the close-to-final install position, pointing rearward, as a reverse light.




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91853
 
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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
In for night pics.
I'll see what I can put together. I'll see if I can get a decent picture of the backup display and from outside the car facing the rear with and without the plate light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
I can't tell that my Nite Shade spray has diminished light output much, if at all. Tomorrow, I may try a mock-up of it in the close-to-final install position, pointing rearward, as a reverse light.




View attachment 91851



View attachment 91852



View attachment 91853
With 8000 lumens to play with, I doubt you'll see much difference from using the coating. I want to see where you install that aircraft landing light and what it looks like from the rear.
 
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With 8000 lumens to play with, I doubt you'll see much difference from using the coating. I want to see where you install that aircraft landing light and what it looks like from the rear.
I'll try to move this along. I may have a little more time as furloughs seem to be looming. :( Tonight, I'll put the light bar under the car at/near where it will ultimately be mounted, and run the wires to a spare battery. It should be a near perfect representation of the ultimate install. I'll take pics and share.
 

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I'll try to move this along. I may have a little more time as furloughs seem to be looming. :( Tonight, I'll put the light bar under the car at/near where it will ultimately be mounted, and run the wires to a spare battery. It should be a near perfect representation of the ultimate install. I'll take pics and share.
Did I read that you are planning on mounting it to the bottom edge of the rear bumper cover? If it were me I think I would reinforce the area by placing a strap of aluminum on the backside of the cover rather than just a couple of washers. I doubt the light weighs very much but I would be worried about the long term effect on the cover from the light wiggling and shaking while the car is in motion and fatiguing the bumper cover and maybe tearing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
Please wear the proper eye protection before you touch that beacon off at night.
 

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Ok, as promised, I mocked up my LED bar tonight under the rear bumper cover. I Simply used clamps to hold it in place and ran the wires to an extra battery 12V source for power. But it should be pretty close to where I will ultimately mount it with nuts and bolts. Do note my driveway slopes downward so the light beam is heading straight out, not down. I tried to name the picture files logically so you know what is going on. Hope this helps. :D
 

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Ahhh, can only upload 10 files. Here is # 11....
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Picture #5 looks like a laser blast from the Millennium Falcon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
My Posi-Taps will be here this afternoon according to the USPS. I'll get things buttoned up and take some before and after pictures after it gets dark. Then I can start on the sequential turn signal mirror lights. I needed Posi-Taps for that job also.
 
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I've used Scotchlok Taps for decades. These Posi-Taps are new to me. But I haven't done much auto electrical work of late.
 

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I think T Taps or Posi Taps will both get the job done. I only recently learned about Posi Taps when they showed up with the JB4 Fuel wires. I was intrigued so I ordered an assortment. I also have an assortment of T-Taps.

T-Taps are cheaper and what I really like about them is you can mix and match the tap and the connector spade. For instance, if you're T'ing a 22 gauge wire into a 12 gauge wire, you can use a yellow tap and a red spade. A negative of T-Taps is that the tap severs the tapped wire. So, once you add the tap, it's there for life. You can pull the spade out of the tap but the tap has to stay on the wire.

I'm not 100% sure but I think Posi Taps don't sever the tapped wire and, therefore, can be removed, if needed.




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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
OK...After futzing around with this backup light last night I have to say that while it's plenty bright enough, my concern about the location of the light bar with respect to the rear camera lens has come true. I'm getting enough light reflection onto the camera's "fisheye lens" to wash out part of the image with a halo. I'm going to try a few things but at this time I would not recommend this kit for a Q50 as is. Phooey!
 
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