[Syeghyayan23]

Added to the list. The car wasn't designed horribly, the turbo design had a defect.

What options do I have I dony want another pair of oem problematic turbo has anybody created the adapters needed to change the actual turbos what option do I have besides pure Nd rt turbos at this time... and how Re the reviews for those turbo because if the guts/housing is the oem turbo then wouldn't the defective design still persist causing future turbo issues the same as oem ....what do I do I have 19mo left on my lease don't mind buying the car but only if I can resolve this issue with the turbos please anybody would love to hear anY opinion or suggestion thanks

 

[Ddnspider]

Pure and RT seem to be holding up ok. I haven't had issues with my stock replacements. As far as I know no one has made the adapters.

 

[JohnInNH]

I think I answered your questions in a different thread.. but again, I replaced my GOOD OEM turbos (no problems with them) @ 30K miles, with the Pure Stage 2 turbos, for higher performance (HP). Along with the supporting fuel modifications. Takes fuel to make power.

I don't get why many of us did not have turbo problems and yours both went bad at 5000 miles. Maybe a batch was built with poor quality seals. The failures are not mechanical as I understand, but leaking oil from bad seals. (Correct me if I'm mistaken).

The Pure Stage 2 I would suspect would be more maliciously built and may not use the OEM seals.

Be advised the Pure turbos have a VERY different power band. They make their power 4500-7000 RPM. The OEM make more power at lower RPM, but fall off at 5500 RPM. If tuned the OEM turbos have a big torque hump 2500-3500 RPM level off and start to drop at 5500.

20 PSI seems to be the top of the OEM turbo efficiency range. Stillen has a chart showing this. @ 21-22 psi no more power, just tons of heat. While the Pure Stage 2 turbos make good power up to 23 PSI.

This is with pump 93 octane gas.

I don't know of any aftermarket turbos that have the same characteristics as the OEM turbos. If your only looking for increased reliability. Blowoff valves do nothing but help your turbos. If tuned you should get them.

 

[Syeghyayan23]

I think I answered your questions in a different thread.. but again, I replaced my GOOD OEM turbos (no problems with them) @ 30K miles, with the Pure Stage 2 turbos, for higher performance (HP). Along with the supporting fuel modifications. Takes fuel to make power.

I don't get why many of us did not have turbo problems and yours both went bad at 5000 miles. Maybe a batch was built with poor quality seals. The failures are not mechanical as I understand, but leaking oil from bad seals. (Correct me if I'm mistaken).

The Pure Stage 2 I would suspect would be more maliciously built and may not use the OEM seals.

Be advised the Pure turbos have a VERY different power band. They make their power 4500-7000 RPM. The OEM make more power at lower RPM, but fall off at 5500 RPM. If tuned the OEM turbos have a big torque hump 2500-3500 RPM level off and start to drop at 5500.

20 PSI seems to be the top of the OEM turbo efficiency range. Stillen has a chart showing this. @ 21-22 psi no more power, just tons of heat. While the Pure Stage 2 turbos make good power up to 23 PSI.

This is with pump 93 octane gas.

I don't know of any aftermarket turbos that have the same characteristics as the OEM turbos. If your only looking for increased reliability. Blowoff valves do nothing but help your turbos. If tuned you should get them.

Yes BOV are my next major purchase along with replacement of turbos I just can't decide what to replace with pure or rt ...I would just hate to buy new y
Turbos only to go out in another 5000 miles ...what do you suggest?

 

[Syeghyayan23]

Pure and RT seem to be holding up ok. I haven't had issues with my stock replacements. As far as I know no one has made the adapters.

If you were to recommend based off reviews and word of mouth what should I purchase pure stage 2 or rt turbos ? What bra d BOV do you also suggest?

 

[Syeghyayan23]

Yes BOV are my next major purchase along with replacement of turbos I just can't decide what to replace with pure or rt ...I would just hate to buy new y
Turbos only to go out in another 5000 miles ...what do you suggest?

Also what BOV do you recommend?

 

[JohnInNH]

HKS Blowoff valves see below. You know you have to drop the motor to install new turbos.

Z1 Q50 / Q60 VR30DDTT HKS Blow Off Valve Kit - Z1 Motorsports - Performance OEM and Aftermarket Engineered Parts Global Leader In 300ZX 350Z 370Z G35 G37 Q50 Q60

www.z1motorsports.com

 

[[email protected]]

Putting my Pure Stage2’s on cost me @ $2200 in labor FYI.

 

[Ddnspider]

If you were to recommend based off reviews and word of mouth what should I purchase pure stage 2 or rt turbos ? What bra d BOV do you also suggest?

I think there's more info of people installing the PURE turbos so I'd probably go that route.

 

[JohnInNH]

@Syeghyayan23
The Pure Stage 2 turbos have a very different bower band. The power starts to come on at 4000 RPM unlike the OEM turbos that are designed to make very good power down low especially if tuned.

You are from CA so going to a flex fuel setup makes sense. Had E85 been available near me I would have done it. 100 octane race fuel is easier for me to get, and I have a tune for it.

OEM turbos should not be going bad in 5000 miles let alone 50,000 miles. If the turbos are going bad this quickly there may be an underlying problem that is causing it.

Didn't the replacements have a warranty? There must be a story behind this.

 

[[email protected]]

Lost three of the “new” OEM turbos - the first stock OEM pair were replaced due to oil leaks but were still working just fine. Of the warranty covered replacement “new” turbos - both of them “failed” due to squealing (1st one was covered under warranty - 2nd wasn’t.) Given that I couldn’t imagine paying out of pocket for another “new” OEM turbo and the labor to drop the engine - I rolled a lot of quarters and went with the Pure Stage2’s. So far - very happy and looking forward to seeing what Seb’s Map 3 tune puts down in terms of numbers.

 

[jodedor]

I think I answered your questions in a different thread.. but again, I replaced my GOOD OEM turbos (no problems with them) @ 30K miles, with the Pure Stage 2 turbos, for higher performance (HP). Along with the supporting fuel modifications. Takes fuel to make power.

I don't get why many of us did not have turbo problems and yours both went bad at 5000 miles. Maybe a batch was built with poor quality seals. The failures are not mechanical as I understand, but leaking oil from bad seals. (Correct me if I'm mistaken).

The Pure Stage 2 I would suspect would be more maliciously built and may not use the OEM seals.

Be advised the Pure turbos have a VERY different power band. They make their power 4500-7000 RPM. The OEM make more power at lower RPM, but fall off at 5500 RPM. If tuned the OEM turbos have a big torque hump 2500-3500 RPM level off and start to drop at 5500.

20 PSI seems to be the top of the OEM turbo efficiency range. Stillen has a chart showing this. @ 21-22 psi no more power, just tons of heat. While the Pure Stage 2 turbos make good power up to 23 PSI.

This is with pump 93 octane gas.

I don't know of any aftermarket turbos that have the same characteristics as the OEM turbos. If your only looking for increased reliability. Blowoff valves do nothing but help your turbos. If tuned you should get them.

Here is the biggest issue with folks running JB4 map6 on factory turbos.

Straight from stillen back in 2016. First pic is RS boost. Second pic is "recommended" boost for turbo efficiency.

If you go beyond 18 psi, it is on you.

A lot of guys with JB4 run map 6 beyond the turbo efficiency range.

 

[17awdQ50P]

Here is the biggest issue with folks running JB4 map6 on factory turbos.

Straight from stillen back in 2016. First pic is RS boost. Second pic is "recommended" boost for turbo efficiency.

If you go beyond 18 psi, it is on you.

A lot of guys with JB4 run map 6 beyond the turbo efficiency range.

View attachment 96998

View attachment 96999

Map 6 is custom seems rather vague to say it’s a problem, and i really don’t see people running more than +4 psi with JB4 on red sports which is 18-19psi.
Also 18psi being max VE doesn’t mean the turbos cant make more boost or that more boost won’t make more power. It just has a diminishing return especially with pump gas. A lot of tuners target 19-20psi on stock turbos especially with race gas, ethanol, or WMI.

 

[jodedor]

Map 6 is custom seems rather vague to say it’s a problem, and i really don’t see people running more than +4 psi with JB4 on red sports which is 18-19psi.
Also 18psi being max VE doesn’t mean the turbos cant make more boost or that more boost won’t make more power. It just has a diminishing return especially with pump gas. A lot of tuners target 19-20psi on stock turbos especially with race gas, ethanol, or WMI.

You can add more boost for diminishing returns...yes, that is correct. It is still more power, true. But, what is the cost?

It means you are stressing the turbo and spinning it faster that its intended purpose.

 

[JohnInNH]

Here is the biggest issue with folks running JB4 map6 on factory turbos.

Straight from stillen back in 2016. First pic is RS boost. Second pic is "recommended" boost for turbo efficiency.

If you go beyond 18 psi, it is on you.

A lot of guys with JB4 run map 6 beyond the turbo efficiency range.

Thanks for posting the Stillen data. 👍 That's the data I was refering to. Then add in boost spiking and the turbos go over the "target" boost (not marginally either), hence the need of a tapered map. I'm not a JB4 expert like @Avedis53 is, but understand the basic idea.

 

[17awdQ50P]

Thanks for posting the Stillen data. 👍 That's the data I was refering to. Then add in boost spiking and the turbos go over the "target" boost (not marginally either), hence the need of a tapered map. I'm not a JB4 expert like @Avedis53 is, but understand the basic idea.

That’s why on RS leaving 0 added psi at 6500 and 7000 is good, and not short shifting. Boost spikes will stay at 19psi or less. Now if you short shift at 5,500 making 19psi you’ll have a 22+ psi spike.

on non red sport around 5psi at 6500 and 0 at 7,000 will keep you aligned with Red sports.

 

[17awdQ50P]

You can add more boost for diminishing returns...yes, that is correct. It is still more power, true. But, what is the cost?

It means you are stressing the turbo and spinning it faster that its intended purpose.

All true,
But none of that is really inherent to JB4 or JB4 map 6. Tuners frequently target 19psi and even people on AMS maps running 21psi.

 

[Avedis53]

All true,
But none of that is really inherent to JB4 or JB4 map 6. Tuners frequently target 19psi and even people on AMS maps running 21psi.

Tuners also take into account fuel octane when building maps at higher boosts.

 

[JohnInNH]

All true,
But none of that is really inherent to JB4 or JB4 map 6. Tuners frequently target 19psi and even people on AMS maps running 21psi.

Unless Maxlegends fiddles with it.😂🤣😂

 

[17awdQ50P]

Tuners also take into account fuel octane when building maps at higher boosts.

That’s for engine reliability, not turbo longevity though, which is what he’s referencing. 19psi on the turbo is 19psi on the turbo regardless of octane. The diminishing returns from the VE and increased heat is some what negated with higher octanes/different fuels to increase power safely on the engine. The turbo is being stressed the same.

Also my previous post
“It just has a diminishing return especially with pump gas. A lot of tuners target 19-20psi on stock turbos especially with race gas, ethanol, or WMI.”