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2014 Infiniti Q50S 6MT RWD
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Note: You can follow me on IG: @q50_hotboi for more visuals. I respond to DMs and there are some walkthroughs on my posts as well.


This thread is being parked and will serve as a go-to resource for anyone who is looking to convert their RWD VQ37 equipped Q50 to a 6spd manual transmission. These parts have not been verified to work for AWD equipped Q50s.
The walkthrough is written from a removal standpoint. Follow these instructions in reverse when putting the vehicle back together.

This thread will serve purpose to those who wish to convert their VQ37VHR equipped Q50s to 6MT. Those who do not have the skillset, tools, and mechanical knowledge, should not perform these modifications. The task of converting a Q50 to manual is simple. You will cut, drill, and grind various components of your vehicle in order to fit and clearance the components of the manual transmission. This is not being written to scare anyone off. This is a fair warning that whatever you may alter on the car may render it permanently inoperable without professional repair.

With that being said, we will get started on the process!

Center Console Parts <-- Thread Link (4 month wait)
2019 370Z M/T w/out SyncroRev
370Z JWT Billet Concentric Slave
370Z JWT 14lb Flywheel/Clutch Combo
Z1 370Z Billet/Polyurethane Trans Mount
Technafit Braided/Sleeved Hydraulic Clutch Line <-- Special order from CZP
370Z Clutch Pedal
370Z Brake Pedal
370Z Master Cylinder & Gasket
350Z Clutch Fluid Reservoir & Bracket

Removing the 7AT unit:

Factory Service Manual

You will want to start this process by removing the driveshaft first. Make sure you have removed all of the under-shielding from the transmission tunnel so you can gain access to the driveshaft. At the rear you will see your driveshaft carrier bracket bolted to the top of the transmission tunnel held on by two nuts, leave this alone for now. Start removing the six bolts from the rear diff coupler. Once those six coupler bolts are removed, make your way to the carrier bracket and remove those two nuts. The driveshaft will now be loose so be careful not to let it fall onto anything or yourself. Carefully pull on the driveshaft to slide it out from the output shaft and set aside out of the way.

If you have not removed the center console from the interior, please do so now and come back to this section.

Now that the center console has been removed, undo the automatic selector bolts from inside of the vehicle. Once the bolts are removed, relieve the pin from the level attached to the side of the automatic selector and set the unit aside. Make your way under the vehicle and release the pin on the lever attached to the driver's side of the transmission and remove.

Next you will want to remove the harness and brackets from the transmission bellhousing. Once the harness has been freed move it out of the way to the passenger side of the bellhousing to give you clear access to the transmission-engine bolts. You will find four 14mm bolts on the engine side at the bottom of the bellhousing and eight 17mm bolts on the transmission side. You will also see one 10mm bolt in the middle which holds the observation plate on.

Remove the 10mm bolt and take off the observation plate. Inside you will find four bolts which hold the torque converter to the flywheel. Take your 1/2" breaker bar with a deep 19mm socket and place it on the crank pulley bolt.
IMPORTANT in order to gain access to these torque converter bolts you will need to rotate the engine by hand! IF YOU ARE FACING THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE YOU WILL ROTATE THE ENGINE CLOCKWISE! DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE COUNTER CLOCKWISE!
Rotating the engine counter clockwise may cause loss of oil pressure in the timing chain tensioners and may cause timing to be off - which can cause catastrophic damage to your engine upon ignition.

Once you have gained access to the torque converter bolts take a flywheel locking tool like so and lock your ring gear into place so that you do not rotate the engine during removal. Rotate the engine as you remove each bolt until all are removed. Once all torque converter bolts are removed, proceed to remove the rest of the bolts from the bellhousing/engine.

NOTE: There are two 17mm bellhousing bolts at the top of the transmission, I suggest removing the harness bracket from the engine block to give more room. In order to remove these two bolts, the easiest solution is to grab a 3' long extension with a u-joint and a shallow 17mm socket attached to a breaker bar. There is no need to let the transmission hang or remove anything from the engine.

Once all bellhousing bolts are removed, place a jack underneath the transmission with a flat piece of wood wide enough to support the transmission pan. Proceed to remove the four 14mm bolts from the rear transmission cross brace and set aside. Lock your jack and wiggle the transmission from the engine slowly, lower as needed.

Congratulations, you've completed step one of the manual transmission swap.

Removing the center console:
Factory Service Manual (PG 22)

Removing the center console is straight forward.

You will use a trim removal tool and unclip the knee bolsters from each side of the housing. Once removed you will remove the cupholder and trim by carefully prying under the surface. Once the cupholders are removed proceed to unbolt the shifter surround. In order to remove the shifter surround you will need to remove the shift knob. The shift knob comes off easily by removing the clip below the knob. Once removed slide it up and set aside.

In order to lift the shift selector out of the tunnel you will need to go under the car and disconnect the pins on the selector linkage. Once the linkage is disconnected you can unbolt the selector housing from the tunnel and remove it from the vehicle.

NOTE: Be careful not to damage any of the harness connectors/wires as the area is packed tightly.

Once the shifter has been removed you will see and HVAC tube routing to the rear vents - you will need to remove this in order to install the new 6MT Center Console. There is a screw near the rear vents which holds the HVAC tubing to the console.

Unclip the plastic panels next to the knee bolster area on both sides. Once removed proceed to the rear vents and take out the vents and back cover of the console. Once you've gained access, lift the armrest and remove the cover on the bottom of the hinge and unbolt the center console from the support bracket.

You may now remove the center console from the vehicle.

Removing the footbrake and cable:
Factory Service Manual

NOTE: Make sure to unbolt the passthrough from the transmission tunnel to give the cable slack. Once completed, go under the vehicle and disconnect the junction from the rear brake cables.

Removing the foot e-brake is fairly straight forward. Remove the bolts from the bracket holding it onto the firewall and unhook the cable end. Throw the footbrake into the trash as you will never be able to install it again after the swap. If you have followed the instructions in order, you will now have room to remove the e-brake cable. The cable is routed through clamps bolted into the firewall. Unscrew these clamps and remove the cable by pulling it out from under the dash where the HVAC vents exhaust into the center console area. Don't be afraid to cut the cable before it enters into the dashboard if needed.

Once the cable and footbrake are removed, you will need to drill out the spot welds on the top bracket and remove the entire top bracket that the footbrake used to bolt onto. You will need to seal these holes with RTV or your choice of sealant. To gain access you will need to remove the windshield cowling.

Removing the brake pedal and swapping the pedal assembly:
Factory Service Manual

Installing the clutch pedal and master cylinder:
Factory Service Manual

Please check back here within the following weeks for updates and added information.

This thread made possible by the knowledge and contributions by:
Nick Letsom (Concept Z Performance)
Chris De Jesus (Mossy Nissan El Cajon Parts)
Eric Flores (@q50sc)
Eli Abergal (@lsq_50)
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