Infiniti Q50 Forum banner
61 - 80 of 92 Posts

·
Administrator
Newport, Oregon
Joined
·
13,643 Posts
@Avedis53 do you have the service manual procedure for transmission fluid change on vr30s? I mostly want to see if the temp is a range or only states 104. Typically it’s a range like 104-117 so you have a little time to check before its too hot to level properly as it’ll only be 104 exactly for a brief moment.
The SM states ATF temperature should be 104° or LESS when changing ATF. ATF level should be checked at 104°.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 17awdQ50P

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Just performed this over the weekend, this guide is very helpful. I'm hoping the transmission level can vary +/- .25 quarts without damaging anything severely. The temperature climbs fast. I drained it at 107 degrees F running the engine in park, let .25 quart come out and plugged it before it started dripping since the temperature of the pan was 3 degrees higher. Since this thread says to use an extra .5 quarts, letting .25 drain out, would you be worried if there was an extra .25 quarts in the transmission?
2015 Q50 3.7L
 

·
Registered
2017 infiniti Q50 AWD
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
You parked on a perfectly level surface?
Did you cycle through the P N R D a few times before leveling?
You plug it just at or a second before the hair thin stream turned into a slow drip?

Not sure where you live or what temp outside, but letting everything sit to cooldown to sub 70s before final leveling should give you plenty of time to cycle through gear selection a few times and then get under the car level fluid and replug before 104F.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
You parked on a perfectly level surface?
Did you cycle through the P N R D a few times before leveling?
You plug it just at or a second before the hair thin stream turned into a slow drip?

Not sure where you live or what temp outside, but letting everything sit to cooldown to sub 70s before final leveling should give you plenty of time to cycle through gear selection a few times and then get under the car level fluid and replug before 107.
I was doing it in my garage. As level as I can get it.
I cycled through P N R D and back, 2 times over a period of a minute.
I didnt let it get to a hair thin stream, would rather have a little extra in it right? Although, It wasn't flowing out as fast as when I first drained it with the engine off.
 

·
Super Moderator
Murrieta, CA, USA
Joined
·
6,929 Posts
I did an ATF drain and refill on my TL this past weekend. It's a pain in the rump because there is no filler hole. You literally have to use the soda straw-sized dip stick tube. 3 excruciatingly slow quarts.
 

·
Registered
2017 infiniti Q50 AWD
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
I was doing it in my garage. As level as I can get it.
I cycled through P N R D and back, 2 times over a period of a minute.
I didnt let it get to a hair thin stream, would rather have a little extra in it right? Although, It wasn't flowing out as fast as when I first drained it with the engine off.
Pretty sure the instructions say to let it drain out overflow hole till it stops, so going to just at or a second before it goes from hair thin to slow dribble would already be overfilled just a hair.
Personally I would get as close to exact as possible, maybe err on the side of a hair overfilled like suggested above, but not 1/4 qt just my personal opinion.

A few articles about the risk of overfilling. There’s a reason there is a specific specification.



 
  • Like
Reactions: acd450

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
So you run the engine for 1 minute in between every drain/fill? And do you cycle the P-R-N-D every time or just after the last fill?
 

·
Registered
2017 infiniti Q50 AWD
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
So you run the engine for 1 minute in between every drain/fill? And do you cycle the P-R-N-D every time or just after the last fill?
With car turned off
Drain pan.
Refill pan slightly overfilling 1/2qt more than drained out, should be about 3 out and 3 1/2 in. (If car sat for a while then probably 3 1/2 out 4 in)

Turn car on cycle through P-R-N-D-N-R-N-P stopping at each point for 10seconds repeat twice, this will take 160 seconds this will ensure all the new fluid is fully circulated and mixed, if you don’t don’t this or don’t do it as long more new fresh fluid will still be in the pan so when you level it you are draining new fluid, or if you do a full “flush” you’re flushing new fluid every drain and fill.

If doing a full “flush” repeat 2 more times (3 total) 1st 2 with 3 qt, final with 3 1/2-4qts

on the final drain and fill leave the car on after cycling gears and immediately pull overflow plug, fluid should come out if so cap it just as it turns to a dribble. If no fluid comes out add more and then try to level again.

Note if transmission fluid exceeds 104F before finishing leveling, stop, let it all cooldown, and then repeat P-R-N-D-N-R-P and then proceed to level again. it is best to make sure fluid is at or below 70F before starting final gear cycling to allow plenty of time for completion. I would pull overflow plug at about 90-93F should be easily recapped by 100-104F.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
With car turned off
Drain pan.
Refill pan slightly overfilling 1/2qt more than drained out, should be about 3 out and 3 1/2 in. (If car sat for a while then probably 3 1/2 out 4 in)

Turn car on cycle through P-R-N-D-N-R-N-P stopping at each point for 10seconds repeat twice, this will take 160 seconds this will ensure all the new fluid is fully circulated and mixed, if you don’t don’t this or don’t do it as long more new fresh fluid will still be in the pan so when you level it you are draining new fluid, or if you do a full “flush” you’re flushing new fluid every drain and fill.

If doing a full “flush” repeat 2 more times (3 total) 1st 2 with 3 qt, final with 3 1/2-4qts

on the final drain and fill leave the car on after cycling gears and immediately pull overflow plug, fluid should come out if so cap it just as it turns to a dribble. If no fluid comes out add more and then try to level again.

Note if transmission fluid exceeds 104F before finishing leveling, stop, let it all cooldown, and then repeat P-R-N-D-N-R-P and then proceed to level again. it is best to make sure fluid is at or below 70F before starting final gear cycling to allow plenty of time for completion. I would pull overflow plug at about 90-93F should be easily recapped by 100-104F.
I appreciate your help, sorry for the questions I just don't trust anyone else to work on my car and never had to do a tranny like this.

So you're saying if I only want to drain and fill I drain it once then fill .5 more than drained and run through the PRNDNRP TWICE then let drain at 104, cap it and I'm done?
 

·
Super Moderator
Murrieta, CA, USA
Joined
·
6,929 Posts
I appreciate your help, sorry for the questions I just don't trust anyone else to work on my car and never had to do a tranny like this.

So you're saying if I only want to drain and fill I drain it once then fill .5 more than drained and run through the PRNDNRP TWICE then let drain at 104, cap it and I'm done?
In my opinion a double drain and fill or a flush is unnecessary. The manufacturer tells us we don't need to service the transmission at all. So I think a simple drain and refill every 30,000 is more than enough. Get the car nice and hot, drain the ATF, fill it back up with 3 1/8 qt, done.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Acsom

·
Registered
2017 infiniti Q50 AWD
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
I appreciate your help, sorry for the questions I just don't trust anyone else to work on my car and never had to do a tranny like this.

So you're saying if I only want to drain and fill I drain it once then fill .5 more than drained and run through the PRNDNRP TWICE then let drain at 104, cap it and I'm done?
Correct, the .5 more is to ensure it’s overfilled so you have fluid to drain from overflow plug to level it. If you did exact amount drained nothing will drain from overflow. And then you can’t really level it.

If you do 1 drain and flush every 15k miles you’ll have done basically a full flush every 45k miles. Not a bad way of doing it.

Depending on current miles you should do 1 drain and fill for every 15k miles you got on the car currently. Or you could do a full flush now to start fresh and get out the fluid from initial break in. And then proceed to do one drain and fill every 15k.

when I installed my trans cooler my car sat for several days then I drained the pan and at least 4qt came out. Fluid slowly drips from valve body and trans filter back to pan if sitting long enough. Then did 2 drain and fills, ended up flushing in about 8qt total. Fluid was super black before (38k miles) and then looked almost brand new once done. Shifting at WOT was a bit better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Correct, the .5 more is to ensure it’s overfilled so you have fluid to drain from overflow plug to level it. If you did exact amount drained nothing will drain from overflow. And then you can’t really level it.

If you do 1 drain and flush every 15k miles you’ll have done basically a full flush every 45k miles. Not a bad way of doing it.

Depending on current miles you should do 1 drain and fill for every 15k miles you got on the car currently. Or you could do a full flush now to start fresh and get out the fluid from initial break in. And then proceed to do one drain and fill every 15k.

when I installed my trans cooler my car sat for several days then I drained the pan and at least 4qt came out. Fluid slowly drips from valve body and trans filter back to pan if sitting long enough. Then did 2 drain and fills, ended up flushing in about 8qt total. Fluid was super black before (38k miles) and then looked almost brand new once done. Shifting at WOT was a bit better.
Cool, thanks again. Bought my car with 39k. I saw a lot of people saying to do trans fluid at 60k and now I'm there and recently it seems to search for a gear more /hold rpms too long for some shifts.
Probably should've done the fluid when I bought it 🤷
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,790 Posts
You parked on a perfectly level surface?
I'm curious how one can be certain a vehicle is level in its lifted position. Pretty much all garages and driveways have a slope to them to promote drainage away from the home. Also, depending how and where supported the car is when raised can provide some variation in the level.

Has anyone determined where on the car or frame one can place a level to determine if the car is level for this procedure?
 

·
Super Moderator
Murrieta, CA, USA
Joined
·
6,929 Posts
I'm curious how one can be certain a vehicle is level in its lifted position. Pretty much all garages and driveways have a slope to them to promote drainage away from the home. Also, depending how and where supported the car is when raised can provide some variation in the level.

Has anyone determined where on the car or frame one can place a level to determine if the car is level for this procedure?
You're over thinking it. Just check your fluid level in your garage with all 4 tires on the floor. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,790 Posts
You're over thinking it. Just check your fluid level in your garage with all 4 tires on the floor. ;)
If only it were that easy! Where is the dipstick!
 

·
Super Moderator
Murrieta, CA, USA
Joined
·
6,929 Posts

·
Registered
2017 infiniti Q50 AWD
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
I'm curious how one can be certain a vehicle is level in its lifted position. Pretty much all garages and driveways have a slope to them to promote drainage away from the home. Also, depending how and where supported the car is when raised can provide some variation in the level.

Has anyone determined where on the car or frame one can place a level to determine if the car is level for this procedure?
To combat this, i had a independent concrete contractor come out and re poor my garage making sure it was 100% level with no greater than a +/- .001% deviation. Then I place multiple magnetic levelers on 8 different points of contacts to control the x, y, and z axis. I also use 12 laser Levelers mounted on the walls to control for any variable in the chassis and vehicle structure. I also place multiple levels on each wall to ensure my wall is level. I place levels on my levels to make sure the level is leveled. After all of this I check my fluids.

why what do you do?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Avedis53

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,790 Posts
To combat this, i had a independent concrete contractor come out and re poor my garage making sure it was 100% level with no greater than a +/- .001% deviation. Then I place multiple magnetic levelers on 8 different points of contacts to control the x, y, and z axis. I also use 12 laser Levelers mounted on the walls to control for any variable in the chassis and vehicle structure. I also place multiple levels on each wall to ensure my wall is level. I place levels on my levels to make sure the level is leveled. After all of this I check my fluids.

why what do you do?
Humor aside, quite simply where can one even verify the vehicle is level (or even reasonably level)? Is there a frame point that can be used? The trans drain pan?

When I did my differentials and transfer case fluids, I "eye-balled" it. I get the sense that the trans fluid is more sensitive to variation in volume, but maybe that perception is unfounded.
 

·
Registered
2017 infiniti Q50 AWD
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Humor aside, quite simply where can one even verify the vehicle is level (or even reasonably level)? Is there a frame point that can be used? The trans drain pan?

When I did my differentials and transfer case fluids, I "eye-balled" it. I get the sense that the trans fluid is more sensitive to variation in volume, but maybe that perception is unfounded.
For fluids checked under the vehicle having it lifting evenly on the 4 jack points should keep it plenty level to accurately perform the procedure. Just don’t jack one end up higher or do it on an uneven surface (garage is ideal)

for engine oil with all 4 tires on ground depending on suspension setup and weight variables. it is usually raked/slanted forward a little. So i take the average of both sides of the dipstick and call it a day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,790 Posts
For fluids checked under the vehicle having it lifting evenly on the 4 jack points should keep it plenty level to accurately perform the procedure. Just don’t jack one end up higher or do it on an uneven surface (garage is ideal)
I appreciate the input, but ultimately we don't know if the pinch welds are considered a level point for the car. Seems like a reasonable approach to take, sure, but I was curious if anyone knew if there was a point on the car to actually measure if it is level. Again if you have a sloped floor that would also contribute if you're relying on jack stands. So, measuring and adjusting would ensure you have things set as best as you can.
 
61 - 80 of 92 Posts
Top