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Discussion Starter #21
Alright guys, don't kill me but I went for it.


Only doing the two rears, just enough to level out the ride height with the front. Pretty much just looking for a 3/4" rear drop. I finished one side at about 2am last night, had to be up before 7 for work, so second side will be tonight. After I put the wheel on and lowered the car last night, the wheel gap in the back was still pretty big because it hadn't settled yet. So, I drove the car to work today to settle the spring and get an accurate idea of how much drop I got with my spring compression. I did not squeeze two coils completely together, I left a one-finger space.


Well, it turns out to be too much drop, lol. So, I can vouch that these do work. I started with a 3 finger gap, now have a tight 1 finger gap. Was looking for a 2 finger gap. So, I think it dropped about 1.5". I'll loosen it some tonight. It might take several trials. Sorry, no pics of it lowered yet (don't feel like taking pics in the work parking lot) but I'll post some when I am all done.


Ride quality and noise appeared to be unaltered with my one 25 mile freeway drive to work.


Wondering if I should cut off the extra length of threads when I am done? Right now they are straddling the coil below. If they shift, they could rub.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Finished tonight at 2am. Will drive her to work tomorrow to let all settle. But, so far, I was aiming for 2 fingers all around and it seems to be 1.5 all around. Lowering the rear lowers the front (fronts were 2 fingers OEM)? Will provide more accurate pics once everything settles. :)
 

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In for the collateral damage.

I don't yet know what it will be, but it looks sketchy enough that there will be something that goes wrong.

Hmmmm...interesting that this edit turned up as a second post...can I blame this web site or the Catalina update to my MacBook?
 

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Oh where to begin....? LOL
 

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Definitely trim the bolts so they don't stick out just waiting for them to punch a hole through something if the suspension bottoms out.

I also wouldn't consider a highway commute in anyway pushing to the suspension , need to take it on a shoddy back road that will push your car left/right
And provide the regular up/down movements to really give your suspension a work out.
 

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Definitely trim the ends of bolts if you're going to leave those on.

I don't think those are a safe way to lower a car though.

 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ok, I'll hack or dremel the ends of the U bolts off, thanks.


I appreciate all the warnings. I know I am taking a chance. I am hoping that by only doing two out of four springs and only doing a modest drop, I'll be ok. Maybe not! We'll see. I'm hoping worse case is I just ruin the springs (which would be replaced anyway with a "correct" drop).


Can't see 53's vid at work, will watch tonight.
 

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Ok, I'll hack or dremel the ends of the U bolts off, thanks.


I appreciate all the warnings. I know I am taking a chance. I am hoping that by only doing two out of four springs and only doing a modest drop, I'll be ok. Maybe not! We'll see. I'm hoping worse case is I just ruin the springs (which would be replaced anyway with a "correct" drop).


Can't see 53's vid at work, will watch tonight.
I'm in the exact same boat as far as lowering. It seems Swift springs is the recommended least amount of lowering but still shows 1.0"F and .6" rears. I enjoy the DDS system and would rather not ruin that prematurely. What about cutting off half a coil? The top or bottom part? I'm not trying to cheap out anything like that but I have the same 2 finger front and that's roughly 1.5"... so dropping it 1" (before settling) is quite a bit. I know the Eibach spring seems to show reverse drop numbers in that it is .6" F and 1.2" R from what I saw but don't know if that's true?

E10-44-003-01-22: 2016 to 2019 INFINITI Q50 Base 3.0L Sedan RWD -0.6 in -1.4 in
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I'm in the exact same boat as far as lowering. It seems Swift springs is the recommended least amount of lowering but still shows 1.0"F and .6" rears. I enjoy the DDS system and would rather not ruin that prematurely. What about cutting off half a coil? The top or bottom part? I'm not trying to cheap out anything like that but I have the same 2 finger front and that's roughly 1.5"... so dropping it 1" (before settling) is quite a bit. I know the Eibach spring seems to show reverse drop numbers in that it is .6" F and 1.2" R from what I saw but don't know if that's true?

E10-44-003-01-22: 2016 to 2019 INFINITI Q50 Base 3.0L Sedan RWD -0.6 in -1.4 in


It's up to you man! I don't want to recommend to anyone that they cut a coil or use spring clamps. I was willing to take the chance on my car.


I didn't even consider chopping a coil. I figured there was no going back and no adjustability. And while I know my spring clamps are obviously changing the properties of the springs, I don't even want to think about the altered properties of coil cutting!


What is your goal? Mine was to lower the rear (OEM 3-finger gap, ~2") to match the front (OEM 2-finger gap, ~1.5"). Like you, it boggled me why some of these lowering springs have a larger front drop than rear drop. It needs to be the opposite! Have you thought about buying the Swift springs and only using the rear springs (I'm assuming they come as a set of 4)? That crossed my mind. A 0.6" rear drop should level the car out nicely.


Not recommending it but if you choose to do it, so far I am really liking the results of my spring clamps. Of course the true test is the test of time. But, so far, it looks and feels great. I did get very unexpected results though. As you know, I was shooting for reducing the rear by one finger (~0.7") to two fingers (~1.3") to match the front. Well, I don't know why, but I have a tight one finger all around now. I don't understand how clamping the rears also lowered the fronts. But I am not complaining. :D


Good luck. Let me know what you decide.
 

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Good luck. Let me know what you decide.
I'm looking for a uniform drop of perhaps .5" all the way around, slightly more in the rear is okay but we'll see once I get my wheel situation straighten out. As far as the rake goes I believe it's setup that way for traction and driving dynamics. My Saab Turbo X has the rake as most cars do. When I went to lower it on KW Coilovers and even the front to back the driving dynamics was screwed up. I can feel the front lifting coming out of corner and under hard acceleration I didn't feel the control in the front as when it was "raked". Needless to say I put the rake back.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
No complaints so far R1. I haven't even trimmed the U bolts yet. Coincidentally (before even reading your post), I shined a flashlight in there today and everything looks as I left it some x weeks ago, after the install. Today, I drove about 70 miles each way to Irvine for a photo shoot that Titan-7 (T7) asked me to do since I am the "first" Q50 owner to purchase and install their 19" T-S5 rims. waze took me regular freeway there but twisty Ortega Hwy 74 back home and the car seemed to do great in the twisties. Wheel gap has remained constant. I think I said earlier a 'tight' one finger, I meant to say a 'loose' one finger. So, yeah, a loose one-finger equal gap all around. Again, don't ask me how squeezing the back springs lowered the front too. But, I love the look. Was shooting for 2 finger all around, ended up with 1 loose finger all around. No noise or unwanted comfort/handling problems. I'm not recommending these as I still think coil-overs are probably the 'correct' choice. But, I'm cheap and these are working out well for me for now.
 

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No complaints so far R1. I haven't even trimmed the U bolts yet. Coincidentally (before even reading your post), I shined a flashlight in there today and everything looks as I left it some x weeks ago, after the install. Today, I drove about 70 miles each way to Irvine for a photo shoot that Titan-7 (T7) asked me to do since I am the "first" Q50 owner to purchase and install their 19" T-S5 rims. waze took me regular freeway there but twisty Ortega Hwy 74 back home and the car seemed to do great in the twisties. Wheel gap has remained constant. I think I said earlier a 'tight' one finger, I meant to say a 'loose' one finger. So, yeah, a loose one-finger equal gap all around. Again, don't ask me how squeezing the back springs lowered the front too. But, I love the look. Was shooting for 2 finger all around, ended up with 1 loose finger all around. No noise or unwanted comfort/handling problems. I'm not recommending these as I still think coil-overs are probably the 'correct' choice. But, I'm cheap and these are working out well for me for now.
Thank you for the update. I think this could be the solution for those wanting to “test” the look. Do you think it’s a problem for spirited driving around town?

I think the drop went forward because naturally gravity wants to spread the remaining weight evenly betweenall 4 corners.

I’m curious to do it. Can you drop a link to purchase?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thank you for the update. I think this could be the solution for those wanting to “test” the look. Do you think it’s a problem for spirited driving around town?

I think the drop went forward because naturally gravity wants to spread the remaining weight evenly betweenall 4 corners.

I’m curious to do it. Can you drop a link to purchase?
You're welcome. I don't think there would be any issues with regular or spirited driving. I have done both. I haven't completely and totally done major hard cornering or repeated "slaloming" yet but I would predict all would be well. I also have not tested these long-term, obviously.

So, here's the link to the exact one I bought. Unfortunately it states 'currently unavailable'.
I paid $23.51. They are rated 3/5 stars but if you read the reviews, these would not work for some people (ex. their spring coil spacing was too tight, etc.) so those people gave 1 and 2 stars. But it seems when these did work (which they do for our Q50), those people gave 5 stars. Check one of the first reviews. There's a dude with a Q50!!! He gave 5 stars.

Try to stick with the U-bolt design, I think it's superior, and I presume easier to work with, than the saddle design:
[ Ex. I recommend these:
89456
over these:
89455
]


One package comes with 4 pieces and you'll need 2 pieces per spring. So, one package = 2 wheels.

Good luck and keep us updated. I'll do the same if anything changes.
 

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One more question. Being RWD like me, have you seen any better traction off the dig? Less spring travel should put more weight down, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
One more question. Being RWD like me, have you seen any better traction off the dig? Less spring travel should put more weight down, right?

I would presume, in theory, you are right. But 1.) I haven't done a hard launch yet and 2.) I put on my lightweight rims and much better UHP tires at the same time as these spring clamps so, even if I was better at launch (which I hope I am!), I wouldn't know what to attribute it to!

Are you looking to do just the rear springs like I did? How big of a drop are you looking for? As a reminder, I went from a rear 3 finger gap to about 1.5 fingers so, say, 2" to 1"; thus a 1" drop. This is without completely squeezing the coils together where they would touch. Look again at my picture, I left a ~1/4" gap between coils. I would recommend leaving a little gap so they don't touch. Try to grab the coils in the middle of the spring (again, see my pics). Good luck!
 

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I want to do just that. I want 1-1.5 “finger” gap all around. My new wheels are a little wide (9 +29 all around) so I want to make sure to leave some room.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I want to do just that. I want 1-1.5 “finger” gap all around. My new wheels are a little wide (9 +29 all around) so I want to make sure to leave some room.
10-4. (y) Now go to sleep, it's 1am! 😛
 
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