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(Local dyno wanted $500 per pull on the AWD dyno ... so that is absolutely out of the question.)
Yikes! I agree... About a week ago I had my Q60 AWD run on an AWD dyno for $50/pull at a local speed shop. I had three pulls done. My last pull was the best @ 437 WHP & 502 WTQ.
 

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And then this guy does this and makes us all look pedestrian. Lol. Those are very solid numbers for 93 though.
 

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Personally, I always overbuild my engines before I push them -- last thing I need is for a forum user to say, "you should be fine until X" only to bend a rod on the track. I do not regret getting the driveshaft, and I plan on getting rods and pistons before I do any major upgrades.
Good mentality to have although so far our predictions have been pretty spot on, although not really worth the chase when an engine replacement is like 20K. lol
We can thank a individual who shall remain nameless for deciding it was smart to go with a super agressive tune and push over 450 HP on his 3.0T with nothing but an exhaust
and pump gas. lol

And then this guy does this and makes us all look pedestrian. Lol. Those are very solid numbers for 93 though.
Hah well every win for a modder is a win for the community ya?
 
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468HP E30 with an ET Street SS :cry:
100138
100139
 
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511 for torque, I'm AWD. Looking at my logs, boost came up faster than I expected. Before putting the ET street on if you got too aggressive the rear tires would start spinning and it would throw the AWD overheated error kinda protecting you from yourself. Going throw another factory drive shaft piece in from a local yard and see if I can have my limits adjusted. Will also keep an eye out for a used driveshaft
 
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468HP E30 with an ET Street SS :cry:
Oh man my heart goes out to you sir that blows! Honestly your the first I've seen report a failed
drive shaft like this. A lot of people are running similar or more power/torque and not run into this issue

I suspect this is a manufacturing defect with the drive-shaft rather than too much torque being applied,
this is supported by the fact the failure happened away from the couplers which is where the drive-shaft
should in theory be the weakest point.

Ok, well, we found out you can break the OEM D/S with enough HP and sticky MT's... :eek:
As 17AWDQ50P pointed out its torque that is the cause here not HP.
 
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Hmm, I think I have one sitting in my storage room...
You must have enough spare parts to build another Q by now given all the goodies you've added.
 

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You must have enough spare parts to build another Q by now given all the goodies you've added.
Yup. Although I've parted with the stock HE, stock Akebono calipers, Z1 2-piece rotors, chrome grille, sport (non-radiant) grille, and four catalytic converters. Still have the stock airboxes & IC piping, stock CBE, stock DDS C/Os, stock FRT & RR STB & end links, stock suspension arms, and stock rear exhaust panel hanging around, along with the OEM D/S.
 

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I also installed an Inland Empire one piece driveshaft. The OEM one is in my garage with a ton of other parts.
 

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I threw the stock replacement on last night, will look for deals on the aluminum one or wait for black Friday :)
 

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I'm going to revive this thread a bit...although the title is Driveshaft-Spend your money elsewhere. I really feel the 1-piece aluminum driveshaft is a worthy purchase. I got my AMS 1-piece aluminum driveshaft for pretty cheap (lucky score) and the plan was to see what all the hub-bub was about and then sell it. It's been on a couple of weeks now and I find myself wanting to keep it. It really connects your gas pedal to the engine to the rear differential to the wheels! I do have pedal commander/ subframe bushing/ rear diff brace / LSD / asb and lowering springs, the feeling of acceleration is instant and shifting is solid and precise feeling. I don't even race my car (much) but the improvement in drivetrain feel from all my mods together make my Q50 a different animal from when I bought it. And the 1-piece driveshaft is definitely noticeable!
Gas Cylinder Automotive exhaust Automotive tire Metal
 
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