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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys so I have had front suspension noises since I had installed my BC racing Coilovers ( No Swift springs) and SPC camber arms.

I lowered the car around 60k miles and I’m about to hit 85k the car is a 2016 Q50 RWD 3.0t maybe roughly lowered around 1.75”.

Okay so I have tried to figure out the noises all by myself and I have tried numerous things to no avail.
I have gone from clunking to only very audible creaking/clicking
Here is a list of things I have tried to solve the issue:
  • Installed front coils as is, only lowered adjustments
  • Tightened the top nut got rid of clunking
  • Removed coils on two separate occasions to re tighten the top nut. But did not budge with all my strength and a Milwaukee 1/2 inch impact.
  • Removed coils to redo the preload about 4mm
  • No damage or leaks to coils
  • Checked my sway bar end links but they’re all good
  • All my bushings and ball joints are still good
I have different SPC front camber arms that most people mention. Z1 Motorsports said they fit Q50’s and they do. On the box of the actual product it was made for 370z it never mentioned the Q50
101418


I looked around to see if it was possible the suspension was hitting somewhere. The only place I noticed markings of impact was underneath the fender. It has exposed metal in the shape that matches the top of the camber arm where the ball joint is. I tried having the camber arm hit the top fender stationary to see it hit but does not no matter what I tried.

i can mimic the suspension noise by bouncing my car with my body weight. I feel it’s more prominent on the driver side but passenger side does it as well. I feel the noise is coming from the upper portion of the suspension that’s why I been fixated on the top hat nut.

When driving the noise comes out when the car gets hot. On fresh cold starts and cruising around it takes a couple of miles before I start hearing it. On highway speeds I don’t hear a thing. The noise shows itself on bumpy roads, uneven surfaces. Even on speed bumps going 1mph or letting the tires slowly crawl up and down.


okay so my questions are:
Would switching to the OEM top hat for my fronts work? Since it’s recommended doing that for the rear and my rears are silent.
Have I been looking at this all wrong and it’s my cambers arms?
 

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In the entire story, I didn't see how much you lowered your Q?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
To be honest I’m not even sure how much it’s been lowered.
101425

All I can really say is that I know I’m pretty low, my wheel specs are 18s I’m running 265/40R18 I’ve had the wheels for maybe a month, since I have the premium I had 17s and I ran a 225/50R17 on those instead of the 225/55R17 never readjusted the height after the wheels since it still fit without rubbing
101426

I actually found this in my gallery so I’d say 1.75” assuming I was exaggerating for the gram
 

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Hey guys so I have had front suspension noises since I have installed my BC racing Coilovers and SPC camber arms.
I lowered the car around 60k miles and I’m about to hit 85k the car is a 2016 Q50 RWD 3.0t
Okay so I have tried to figure out the noises all by myself and I have tried numerous things to no avail. So here is a little history of what I remember I’ve done.
I bought BC Racing BR Coilovers with no swift spring upgrades and I added the oem top mount to my rear coils like everyone suggested. Since I had to this myself I adjust my height and preload from the beginning and tightened the supplies top nut, after a couple miles I heard clicking on the rear suspension. I retightened the top nuts in the rear with the coils still mounted on the car and no more noise since then. I also have SPC camber arms and SPC toe arms and have no noise from the rear.
Now onto the fronts I left the coils as is besides the height adjustment when I first lowered the car. I also have SPC front camber arms but not the ones I have seen others use View attachment 101418
I used these since it says they would fit the Q50 and they did and you can adjust camber and caster without removing the arms or doing anything to the suspension. When I first started driving I immediately would here a loud clunk when I would simply go over those road indicators when you get to close over your lane. I drove like that for a while until I removed the coils and re tightened the top nut and they were a little loose I’m using the supplied BC racing top hat which is metal. After that I heard no loud clunk but after a while I started to hear clicking noise from the suspension but nothing serious until we hit summer of last year and every time it would get hot the clicking was getting pretty close to clunking again. I would here it on un even roads and when I would hard brake and hard accelerate for 5 feet. I removed the coils and retightened the top nuts again but even with all my strength I couldn’t get it to budge i even tried using my Milwaukee half inch impact. I gave up having no idea what it could be. I drove like that for months before I realized I never replaced the sway bar end links like I did with my mustangs bc Coilovers install back in the day. So I went and removed them and realized they were fine and not worn out no rips of any and the joints moved just fine and I looked around to see if it was possible the suspension was hitting somewhere the only place I had noticed was a marking in the camber arm hitting the top of my fenders there’s a groove where it would hit exposing metal, at first I thought it was my height since then I finally put wheels on and now my car sits higher off the floor. We’ll it’s been a year since I removed the coils until yesterday when the car gets hot that’s when my suspension makes noise after driving for a while I hear the clicking and creaking of the suspension and it’s audible enough to be heard from the outside, I don’t hear it on highway speeds only cruising down a road that’s not even and cracks on the pavement. Yesterday I decided to finally remove the coils and try everything I could on the top hats again and again they wouldn’t budge, I also decided to re do the preload since I never did it and set it to about 4mm when I removed them I noticed the driver side lowest collar was loose and I tightened that back up after I re installed it. I also noticed that the top hat should be able to move independently from the strut and spring but the passenger wouldn’t until I reset the preload. I thought with these fixes I would be good to go finally. After the test drive I realized the steering was more firm and planted the car didn’t feel like it was worn/ had play. But after I drove the car for a bit the noises came back not as prominent as before they’re more quiet but still there. The last thing I can think of would be to replace the top hats back to the OEM but idk if that would work and fix the issue, idk if the noise has been from the camber arms since no one else seems to be running it, all my joints and bushing are fine as well no cracks except the ball joint from the passenger camber arm, the boot is torn which I don’t understand how it’s possible since I never messed with it besides first install and until yesterday. But the noise was still there even before it was torn it’s just something new I gotta fix.

okay so my questions are:
Would switching to the OEM top hat for my fronts work?
Have I been looking at this all wrong and it’s my cambers arms?

also I can replicate the noise when I stand on the driver side with the door open and bounce up and down, same with pushing my body down on the fender and make the car bounce.
If you want more people to read your posts, I suggest you break your text wall into paragraphs and eliminate the run-on sentences. I didn't even bother reading this because it's too hard to follow.
 

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Cliff notes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you want more people to read your posts, I suggest you break your text wall into paragraphs and eliminate the run-on sentences. I didn't even bother reading this because it's too hard to follow.
I took your advice and tried my best to not have it look like a text wall and removed lots of details that are not that important. I can elaborate if needed. Hopefully it’s readable now.
 

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Newport, Oregon
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I tried bullet points and at the bottom are my questions.
Much better. Thank you. Hopefully, someone will have some suggestions for you.
 

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Have you tried raising the car .5" to see if the noise stops? If so then probably hitting something.

Did you grease the bushings on the upper control arm?
That SPC FUPC may need to reuse the upper control arm stopper, did you reuse that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Have you tried raising the car .5" to see if the noise stops? If so then probably hitting something.

Did you grease the bushings on the upper control arm?
That SPC FUPC may need to reuse the upper control arm stopper, did you reuse that?
I have not raised the car, I will try that when I have the chance. How exactly does that upper control arm stopper work? If I remember correctly it’s a thin ring that went in between one of the bushing mounted to the chasis. It didn’t look like much so I believe I didn’t re use them.

i have not greased any bushings on the upper control arms. Speaking of that I found the rubber boot of the passenger ball joint ripped. The car still made the same noise before that boot ripped. I’ll have to find a way to fix that. I still don’t understand how the boot ripped if that part is new and I’ve messed with the driver side more often than the passenger side.
 

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I have not raised the car, I will try that when I have the chance. How exactly does that upper control arm stopper work? If I remember correctly it’s a thin ring that went in between one of the bushing mounted to the chasis. It didn’t look like much so I believe I didn’t re use them.

i have not greased any bushings on the upper control arms. Speaking of that I found the rubber boot of the passenger ball joint ripped. The car still made the same noise before that boot ripped. I’ll have to find a way to fix that. I still don’t understand how the boot ripped if that part is new and I’ve messed with the driver side more often than the passenger side.
OEM uses them for a reason, It could possibly have to do with NVH, or taking up any loose slop for proper fitment.
Based on the look and design of the SPC it looks to mimic OEM for the bushing so i probably would have reused it.

When I installed kinetix arms I did not grease them and they made some weird sounding noises that you would not think where from the bushings, but after greasing them up 100% of the noises where gone. So I would either grease and/or reuse that stopper. I would suspect doing neither would result in some form of NVH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OEM uses them for a reason, It could possibly have to do with NVH, or taking up any loose slop for proper fitment.
Based on the look and design of the SPC it looks to mimic OEM for the bushing so i probably would have reused it.

When I installed kinetix arms I did not grease them and they made some weird sounding noises that you would not think where from the bushings, but after greasing them up 100% of the noises where gone. So I would either grease and/or reuse that stopper. I would suspect doing neither would result in some form of NVH.
Okay I will order those stoppers from the dealer and try my luck with them and greasing the bushings.

if it doesn’t work then I’ll try raising the car. I would like to avoid it since I like the ride height and I don’t mind scraping here and there, having the aluminum z1 undershroud helps since the plastic one would sag
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OEM uses them for a reason, It could possibly have to do with NVH, or taking up any loose slop for proper fitment.
Based on the look and design of the SPC it looks to mimic OEM for the bushing so i probably would have reused it.

When I installed kinetix arms I did not grease them and they made some weird sounding noises that you would not think where from the bushings, but after greasing them up 100% of the noises where gone. So I would either grease and/or reuse that stopper. I would suspect doing neither would result in some form of NVH.
Now that I think about it I think I reused that stopper on the passenger side but not the driver where the noise is the most prominent. I think as I was installing the arms I started with the driver side and by the time I did the passenger that stopper ring fell out immediately. the driver side stopper was stuck to the OEM arm and I got lazy to remove the new arm just to add it.
 

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Okay I will order those stoppers from the dealer and try my luck with them and greasing the bushings.

if it doesn’t work then I’ll try raising the car. I would like to avoid it since I like the ride height and I don’t mind scraping here and there, having the aluminum z1 undershroud helps since the plastic one would sag
No guarantees obviously but worth a shot.

Also not sure if it matters, but when i torque the two bolts connecting upper arm to frame i jack the steering knuckle up so suspension is under compression and the arm is lined up mimicking ride height. May make no difference, but not hard to do to eliminate one possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No guarantees obviously but worth a shot.

Also not sure if it matters, but when i torque the two bolts connecting upper arm to frame i jack the steering knuckle up so suspension is under compression and the arm is lined up mimicking ride height. May make no difference, but not hard to do to eliminate one possibility.
Will do, I think I’m also going to add some kind of absorbing material under the fender where it looks like the control arm bangs and see if at least the noise gets muffled then I know it’s the control arm hitting the fender
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So today I installed the upper control arm stoppers and replaced the boot on that ball joint.

Upon being under the wheel well again I noticed more exposed metal under the fender and the camber arm. So I believe 100% for this to be the cause of the noise I’m hearing. I’m too low.
101701
101702

I would like to stay this low but do something about the noise. I decided to use what I had on hand. I took the sponge from a scotch-brite and folded it in half and used double sided tape to try to prevent the noise and it actually worked. However it doesn’t do to well of a job since the sponge compresses to about a millimeter.
101703

101704

Can anyone think of some kind of bump stop I could use or a better material to stick up under the fender that absorbs impact? Or would it be better to put rubber on the rim of the camber arm? I am up for all the ideas.
 

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You can’t sacrifice like 1/4” on the drop? Would hardly be noticeable.

But if you insist.

Get some adhesive primer and it should hold up for a while, probably stay put better on control arm so its “resting” instead of “hanging”

Adhesive Foam Sheets, 4 Inch Long X 4 Inch Wide X 1/8 Thicks Self Stick Neoprene Rubber Pads Black Shockproof Insulating Foam (10Pcs) Adhesive Foam Sheets, 4 Inch Long X 4 Inch Wide X 1/8 Thicks Self Stick Neoprene Rubber Pads Black Shockproof Insulating Foam (10Pcs): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You can’t sacrifice like 1/4” on the drop? Would hardly be noticeable.

But if you insist.

Get some adhesive primer and it should hold up for a while, probably stay put better on control arm so its “resting” instead of “hanging”

Adhesive Foam Sheets, 4 Inch Long X 4 Inch Wide X 1/8 Thicks Self Stick Neoprene Rubber Pads Black Shockproof Insulating Foam (10Pcs) Adhesive Foam Sheets, 4 Inch Long X 4 Inch Wide X 1/8 Thicks Self Stick Neoprene Rubber Pads Black Shockproof Insulating Foam (10Pcs): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Yeah I know

I will try this first. Since it’s the same concept as what I did without drilling for custom bump stops.

my only worry is debris possibly knocking off whatever I attempt and water. Luckily your suggestion is water proof. I will also use 3M adhesive prompter in addition with the pad.
 
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