you not gonna wait for the actual intake came out from Stillen?
G37 HPS Silicone Intake
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I like the stock look on this.
but there is no power gain whats the point? just curious.. 
I think the big white HPS logos don't look very stock. The M370 Intake is pretty cool and has been shown to add some good power with tuning. The stock air boxes are still going to be your restriction point so adding the silicone without addressing those will not net any gains. If you go with an intake system and replace the pipes with these it should work out just fine though.
Any independent Dyno Sheets?
I can pick up a k&n dyne sheet with 15 hp. do you always believe in what you see?
silicone comes from rubber, that absorbs heat, just go with the k&n typhoon from a g37, and swap it properly, install a converter, chip tune, then you'll see the horsepower increase. otherwise, stock intakes are better. tested before. and even if it says cold air, its not, its still on top with the engine bay compartment, heat shield that comes in the box is crap, doesn't do much help.
silicone comes from rubber, that absorbs heat, just go with the k&n typhoon from a g37, and swap it properly, install a converter, chip tune, then you'll see the horsepower increase. otherwise, stock intakes are better. tested before. and even if it says cold air, its not, its still on top with the engine bay compartment, heat shield that comes in the box is crap, doesn't do much help.
Infiniti G37 Air Intakes - Performance Air Intakes
http://www.carid.com/images/injen/air-intakes/sp1997blk.jpg (Real Cold Air)
*does not fit Q50. Only G37, M37, FX35-37.
http://www.carid.com/images/injen/air-intakes/sp1997blk.jpg (Real Cold Air)
*does not fit Q50. Only G37, M37, FX35-37.
Didnt Infiniti say they tuned the engine a bit for NVH reasons?
Someone on myg37 saw a dyno that showed more power to the wheels than a G37
Im wondering if they did in fact tweak something (intake?), and I would be leary to start replacing stuff until anyone knew exactly what.
There was a rumor that the engine now acts like the IPL version that was available with the G. If thats true, I believe they used exhaust and intake tweaks to make that happen, so I wouldnt want to rush out and start replacing exhaust and intake parts just yet.
Someone on myg37 saw a dyno that showed more power to the wheels than a G37
Im wondering if they did in fact tweak something (intake?), and I would be leary to start replacing stuff until anyone knew exactly what.
There was a rumor that the engine now acts like the IPL version that was available with the G. If thats true, I believe they used exhaust and intake tweaks to make that happen, so I wouldnt want to rush out and start replacing exhaust and intake parts just yet.
It looks like the exhaust system is what was tweaked to gain more power stock.
You guys could just wait for a set a nice intakes made specifically for the Q50...Just saying
Bkim921: If you decide to order the HPS Tubes, you can send them to me and maybe we can throw them up on the dyno
You guys could just wait for a set a nice intakes made specifically for the Q50...Just saying
Bkim921: If you decide to order the HPS Tubes, you can send them to me and maybe we can throw them up on the dyno
May not be the case. Keep in mind the coupe is slower than the sedan. So there may be your horsepower gain and loss concern. Also matters whether auto or manual, awd or rear. Awd is typically slower as opposed to rear.
Survey
Wow!!definitely that's a wonderful web log. i used to be taken a number of tips from in your post. It's helps Maine out. i favor it an excessive amount of. thanks...
Wow!!definitely that's a wonderful web log. i used to be taken a number of tips from in your post. It's helps Maine out. i favor it an excessive amount of. thanks...
You'll still have the smaller diameter tube that comes out of the air box where the MAF's are mounted that will restrict air flow. I'm waiting for the complete package.
Just speculating:You'll still have the smaller diameter tube that comes out of the air box where the MAF's are mounted that will restrict air flow. I'm waiting for the complete package.
The restriction might be to accelerate the air flow for the MAF. It might be calibrated for it.
Few things to keep in mind, independent dyno suggest one vendor testing another vendors part is not independent. That said, I have worked with several over at Stillen on some wheel spacer fit issues and they are all stand-up guys and their parts are well designed and finished parts. The factory air box on this Q vs. G is very different. There are two small resonators/ water traps in the top radiator panel and two in the airbox as well... as well as one on the driver side inlet hose (G had that also). The factory maf to TB "hose" is not a smooth flow for air and MAY yield slightly better hp. 6hp though maybe a bit of magic. The factory "hose" has the flex ridges just before the maf more so for reverb vs. flex. When the tb is slammed closed, the air rushing into the engine bounces off the tb butterfly and back toward the maf / reverse flow. On some cars this can cause a huge spike and toss the air/fuel calibration to be way off and drivability issues. Given the air box design and the radiator cold feed section... it's going to be hard to beat the factory in terms of hp gain other than on a cold engine and nothing more than dyno bragging rights. Real world use and heat soak MAY quickly diminish static dyno results. I have closed off all resonators in the factory configuration and I have only noticed a small change in sound in the very high RPM. It has a slightly more metallic tone about 6k up. And not cool Ferrari like but more cheap I'm ready to brake like sound. Of course I have 2.25" muffler delete pipes and "j" pipes tuned to 127HZ to eliminate drone though still on the loud side. Intake and exhaust noise are my thing. I'll take a 10hp dyno loss on 300HP to get the right engine tone because 10hp on a 300hp motor is what about 7-ish feet in the 1/4 mile...who cares at that point. Do the intake for sound (some sound so cool on this engine) unless it's like a gen 3 Stillen or other well made true cold air that can make good hp and not get heat soaked after three red lights in the real world! The silicone maf hoses vs the stock I doubt have any repeatable difference in heat soak as long as the material thickness is close to the same. That's just my long .02. Also, as we know, air velocity at the maf must be very carefully maintained close to factory. Air volume can be increased but if that velocity is not there say goodbye to useable gains and hello to drivability issues...and shift quality.
Interesting point... hadn't considered that. Wonder what the techs will offer.Just speculating:
The restriction might be to accelerate the air flow for the MAF. It might be calibrated for it.
Any thoughts from Team Stillen on this topic would be greatly appreciated. There are a number of issues brought up here that I'm curious about. Thanks.Few things to keep in mind, independent dyno suggest one vendor testing another vendors part is not independent. That said, I have worked with several over at Stillen on some wheel spacer fit issues and they are all stand-up guys and their parts are well designed and finished parts. The factory air box on this Q vs. G is very different. There are two small resonators/ water traps in the top radiator panel and two in the airbox as well... as well as one on the driver side inlet hose (G had that also). The factory maf to TB "hose" is not a smooth flow for air and MAY yield slightly better hp. 6hp though maybe a bit of magic. The factory "hose" has the flex ridges just before the maf more so for reverb vs. flex. When the tb is slammed closed, the air rushing into the engine bounces off the tb butterfly and back toward the maf / reverse flow. On some cars this can cause a huge spike and toss the air/fuel calibration to be way off and drivability issues. Given the air box design and the radiator cold feed section... it's going to be hard to beat the factory in terms of hp gain other than on a cold engine and nothing more than dyno bragging rights. Real world use and heat soak MAY quickly diminish static dyno results. I have closed off all resonators in the factory configuration and I have only noticed a small change in sound in the very high RPM. It has a slightly more metallic tone about 6k up. And not cool Ferrari like but more cheap I'm ready to brake like sound. Of course I have 2.25" muffler delete pipes and "j" pipes tuned to 127HZ to eliminate drone though still on the loud side. Intake and exhaust noise are my thing. I'll take a 10hp dyno loss on 300HP to get the right engine tone because 10hp on a 300hp motor is what about 7-ish feet in the 1/4 mile...who cares at that point. Do the intake for sound (some sound so cool on this engine) unless it's like a gen 3 Stillen or other well made true cold air that can make good hp and not get heat soaked after three red lights in the real world! The silicone maf hoses vs the stock I doubt have any repeatable difference in heat soak as long as the material thickness is close to the same. That's just my long .02. Also, as we know, air velocity at the maf must be very carefully maintained close to factory. Air volume can be increased but if that velocity is not there say goodbye to useable gains and hello to drivability issues...and shift quality.
The air box/whole front end of the car is very different. That is why the Gen 3's did not work and we had to redesign the Gen 2's to fit.The factory air box on this Q vs. G is very different. There are two small resonators/ water traps in the top radiator panel and two in the airbox as well... as well as one on the driver side inlet hose (G had that also).
This is not an issue on the VQ37. We have tested a lot of intake designs on this motor and had no such issues. I have not heard of an issue like this since the early 90's.The factory maf to TB "hose" is not a smooth flow for air and MAY yield slightly better hp. 6hp though maybe a bit of magic. The factory "hose" has the flex ridges just before the maf more so for reverb vs. flex. When the tb is slammed closed, the air rushing into the engine bounces off the tb butterfly and back toward the maf / reverse flow. On some cars this can cause a huge spike and toss the air/fuel calibration to be way off and drivability issues.
We are guessing the same. Without redesigning the air flow over the radiator and basic intake design there won't be massive power gains to be seen like with the Gen 3's.Given the air box design and the radiator cold feed section... it's going to be hard to beat the factory in terms of hp gain other than on a cold engine and nothing more than dyno bragging rights. Real world use and heat soak MAY quickly diminish static dyno results.
Heat soak really doesn't become a huge issue on these cars unless you are in stop and go traffic where power gains really don't matter. The supercharger system generates a lot more heat and we only see those issues on the dyno and in stop and go traffic. The "cold air" design of the Gen 3's was not actually the main factor in its power gains. The ability to smooth out the air flow before it was read by the MAF and the removal of a restrictive air box are the main reasons for the big power gains.Do the intake for sound (some sound so cool on this engine) unless it's like a gen 3 Stillen or other well made true cold air that can make good hp and not get heat soaked after three red lights in the real world! The silicone maf hoses vs the stock I doubt have any repeatable difference in heat soak as long as the material thickness is close to the same.
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