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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, finally pulled the trigger on the $300 BMS HX and had my local shop install it. Looks well built and the welds are solid. I currently have FI CBE, AMS LDP, JB4 running map 3/ map 5 depending on temps, and now the heat exchanger. I am in south Texas and it has been in the high 90's-100s since I put it on. The car runs strong and does not stutter like it did prior to install. Oddly enough, it seems cooler in the cabin as well.

After spirited driving of about 6 miles, I had the car idling outside for about 10 minutes. IAT showed 143 max at idle, then quickly went to 125-130 when in a 45mph zone. Once on the highway it hovered around 108-113. Like I said the car runs ALOT better and I don't feel like I need to baby her as much as I did in the heat. Is this what I should be expecting from the heat exchanger upgrade if it is functioning like it should?
 

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IATs is not the indicator you need to be watching after installing a HX with JB4, you need to be watching the Trans Temp gauge. It should stay within 10-12 degrees of the outside 'Real Feel' temperature if it is operating properly. Also, did you run the BMS HX in tandem with the OEM, or just the BMS as a replacement to OEM?
 
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As said above inlet air temperature (IAT) will only tell you the temps going into the engine, the heat exchanger shares coolant lines with the transmission so you can use the Transmission temp gauge
To monitor. There is probably another coolant sensor you'd be able to check as well but I don't own a VR30 motor so I can't speak to the various sensors you can log data from.

But yes the car able to run in hot weather like that without pulling timing or cutting power is exactly what you want to see out of it.
 

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"Charge air temp", and "Charge air Coolant temp" via EcuTec dashboard. That's what I watch.
 

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I believe ecutek has access to the actual intake temps that go into the motor. For JB4 these intake temps are what gets sucked into the turbo...not very useful. As said,trans temp is the HE coolant temps and is the best BMS has at the moment.
 

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Trans temp may be good to watch ... Pat at Level 10 said my transmission showed some sign of overheating (post tune), so he put a higher volume pump in mine.
 

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Trans temp may be good to watch ... Pat at Level 10 said my transmission showed some sign of overheating (post tune), so he put a higher volume pump in mine.
trans temp on a JB4 has nothing to do with a transmission. It's the charge coolant temp,BMS just didn't change the PID name.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is good info. I'll have to look at the trans temp but based off the performance its the best investment I've made thus far. Thank you all for the input!
 

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Jayhawk did you get the resonated X-pipe or the standard one? With full downpipes I find the resonated X-pipe plenty loud. I first realized just how loud it was, when in an underpass, or in town with tall buildings close by with all my windows down. Ha, a little go peddle in the underpass makes me ?.


I got so used to having my windows up I had no clue what it sounded like. Cold start in my garage is pretty loud though.
 

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Hey all, finally pulled the trigger on the $300 BMS HX and had my local shop install it. Looks well built and the welds are solid. I currently have FI CBE, AMS LDP, JB4 running map 3/ map 5 depending on temps, and now the heat exchanger. I am in south Texas and it has been in the high 90's-100s since I put it on. The car runs strong and does not stutter like it did prior to install. Oddly enough, it seems cooler in the cabin as well.

After spirited driving of about 6 miles, I had the car idling outside for about 10 minutes. IAT showed 143 max at idle, then quickly went to 125-130 when in a 45mph zone. Once on the highway it hovered around 108-113. Like I said the car runs ALOT better and I don't feel like I need to baby her as much as I did in the heat. Is this what I should be expecting from the heat exchanger upgrade if it is functioning like it should?

No such word in the English language as "alot". ;)

What were your IATs before the heat exchanger install? How are you accurately comparing before/after?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jayhawk did you get the resonated X-pipe or the standard one? With full downpipes I find the resonated X-pipe plenty loud. I first realized just how loud it was, when in an underpass, or in town with tall buildings close by with all my windows down. Ha, a little go peddle in the underpass makes me ?.


I got so used to having my windows up I had no clue what it sounded like. Cold start in my garage is pretty loud though.
I got the non-resonated X-pipe. It is plenty loud and the looks I get from other people when I get on it are priceless. People definitely don't expect this car to make the sound that it does. I also get a silly grin every time I let the wife drive it and I follow her in her car just so I can hear it when she gets on the pedal. People have their opinions about V6 engines, and while I agree some sound horrible (Ecoboost Mustang), the VQ and VR sound amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No such word in the English language as "alot". ;)

What were your IATs before the heat exchanger install? How are you accurately comparing before/after?
Well now I'm finding out that my IATs on JB4 were not what I needed to be looking at. I wasn't paying attention to trans temp before but it is now steadily holding at about +10 degrees over ambient. This was this morning in about 80 degree weather so I will follow up this afternoon.
 

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I think "alotta" is, according to the Urban Dictionary, but "alot" gets a alotta hate. ?
 
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Even the spell check on this forum catches "alot" and changes it to "a lot". You'd have to force it to take the misspelling.
 
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IATs is not the indicator you need to be watching after installing a HX with JB4, you need to be watching the Trans Temp gauge. It should stay within 10-12 degrees of the outside 'Real Feel' temperature if it is operating properly. Also, did you run the BMS HX in tandem with the OEM, or just the BMS as a replacement to OEM?
good to know! i just swapped one of my guages over on my JB4 to trans temp....what is the range it should stay within to prevent harsh damage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update. Driving in 35-45mph zone, trans temp got up to 120 then hovered around 113 in 93 degree weather. Does this sound as if it is operating like it should?
On a side note, it has provided absolutely no relief from the heat I have gotten on here from a grammatical error lol.
 
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Update. Driving in 35-45mph zone, trans temp got up to 120 then hovered around 113 in 93 degree weather. Does this sound as if it is operating like it should?
On a side note, it has provided absolutely no relief from the heat I have gotten on here from a grammatical error lol.
150F is where you'll start to suffer and pull timing.

I just checked my logs from last evening. During a 3rd gear pull from 2500RPM - Redline last night at 6:30PM in Texas heat (98 F), my Charge Air Coolant temp was 109 and jumped to 117 at redline before coming down. I have a frozen boost 118 Heat Exchanger.
 

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Update. Driving in 35-45mph zone, trans temp got up to 120 then hovered around 113 in 93 degree weather. Does this sound as if it is operating like it should?
On a side note, it has provided absolutely no relief from the heat I have gotten on here from a grammatical error lol.
As 5oh_mo said 150F is where things start to get hot and you may see timings get pulled, 100-120F sounds like the perfect temp. zone to be in.
 

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Update. Driving in 35-45mph zone, trans temp got up to 120 then hovered around 113 in 93 degree weather. Does this sound as if it is operating like it should?
On a side note, it has provided absolutely no relief from the heat I have gotten on here from a grammatical error lol.
Slightly high but operating fine. When you installed the BMS, did you keep the OEM HX intact and run it in tandem with the BMS HX or just remove the OEM? I run a Frozen Boost 101 in tandem with my OEM and my temps are almost ways within 10 degrees of the outside temp
 

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good to know! i just swapped one of my guages over on my JB4 to trans temp....what is the range it should stay within to prevent harsh damage?
Everyone else beat me to it, under 150 degrees is the goal. Should never hit that with a heat exchanger and proper coolant levels
 
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