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2017 Infiniti Q60 Red Sport 400 AWD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys, I recently had to replace my radiator support, and so I bled the entire system because I had to take off the hoses… long story short, I’ve never ever owned a vehicle with three different coolant caps and reservoirs, I don’t know what to do or even begin. I looked at some YouTube videos and they suggested I get a system refiller kit from Harbor Freight, and coolant, but I don’t know how to proceed with adding coolant to all components.

if someone can guide me or provide me a resource / tips I’d truly appreciate it guys.
Thank you!
 

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Your profile says a 2015 Q50 but you posted in the VR30 section soooo not super clear which engine you are asking for help on, but the steps for the VR30 (2016+) can be found
below per the Factory SM.

But since you mentioned having 3 caps pretty sure you have a 2016+. In which case start with the main radiator cap (one with the main coolant line running to it) fill that
and then move on to Cap #1 in the below diagram and then if you need to do the charged air cooling system Cap #2.

There may still be air trapped in the charged air-system so I'd refer to the below thread reading that process specifically.

FSM:

Font Parallel Screenshot Rectangle Number

Font Parallel Symmetry Document Pattern

Font Parallel Number Rectangle Screenshot
 

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2017 Infiniti Q60 Red Sport 400 AWD
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Your profile says a 2015 Q50 but you posted in the VR30 section soooo not super clear which engine you are asking for help on, but the steps for the VR30 (2016+) can be found
below per the Factory SM.

But since you mentioned having 3 caps pretty sure you have a 2016+. In which case start with the main radiator cap (one with the main coolant line running to it) fill that
and then move on to Cap #1 in the below diagram and then if you need to do the charged air cooling system Cap #2.

There may still be air trapped in the charged air-system so I'd refer to the below thread reading that process specifically.

FSM:
View attachment 111083
View attachment 111084
View attachment 111085
Sorry I forgot to update it, correct I own a 2017 Infiniti Q60 RS400. I love you man, really appreciate this been stuck in this position for the past 2 days just to realize the one I purchased from Harbor Freight is wrong, and I purchased another from Amazon. I’m going to review your entire post now and study it. Again thank you very very much!
 

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2017 Infiniti Q60 Red Sport 400 AWD
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
regardless, after buying the airlift/coolant refill from harbor freight I cant see ever bleeding a coolant system the old fashion way ever again
I got the MADDOX Cooling System TEST from Harbor Freight, it only comes with one line, and the clamp for my compressor is different. I looked on Amazon, and I found one that is exactly what I am looking for


This one comes with two hoses: one for the coolant line to suck up, and the other is to spit out any coolant / air in the reservoir. The one I purchased MADDOX from H.F. Doesn't include the second one to spit out coolant / air, so it was confusing to me. Decided to opt for a more "safer" version, as there are couple youtube videos relating to the amazon one.

Let me know, maybe I am mistaken and there's something I am missing...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got the MADDOX Cooling System TEST from Harbor Freight, it only comes with one line, and the clamp for my compressor is different. I looked on Amazon, and I found one that is exactly what I am looking for


This one comes with two hoses: one for the coolant line to suck up, and the other is to spit out any coolant / air in the reservoir. The one I purchased MADDOX from H.F. Doesn't include the second one to spit out coolant / air, so it was confusing to me. Decided to opt for a more "safer" version, as there are couple youtube videos relating to the amazon one.

Let me know, maybe I am mistaken and there's something I am missing...
This is embarrassing... I text before I think... So a minute after I sent that message, I decided to research this MADDOX one... to my surprise, it works the same—if not better— than the Amazon one I purchased... I just learned how to do it, and everything. Thanks to @BigHeadClan 's instructions, I am going to do the order of operations he has given me. The only reason I was hesitant is because from my research even having a little pocket of air would instantly damage my pumps and break my car, I am not in the position where I can break this car at all... please excuse my stupidity. I appreciate your patience, but yeah this MADDOX one works very good, especially since after further investigating the case it came with I saw the adapter for the compressor... haha you cannot make this **** up bro.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Your profile says a 2015 Q50 but you posted in the VR30 section soooo not super clear which engine you are asking for help on, but the steps for the VR30 (2016+) can be found
below per the Factory SM.

But since you mentioned having 3 caps pretty sure you have a 2016+. In which case start with the main radiator cap (one with the main coolant line running to it) fill that
and then move on to Cap #1 in the below diagram and then if you need to do the charged air cooling system Cap #2.

There may still be air trapped in the charged air-system so I'd refer to the below thread reading that process specifically.

FSM:
View attachment 111083
View attachment 111084
View attachment 111085
Here's the steps I will be doing right after class tomorrow (please let me know if I am missing something):

  • Setup the air vac tool on the main radiator cap (the one without the reservoir) once the pressure gauge is at 25, I put the coolant in.
  • Take off the air vac tool
  • Fill it with coolant (to max line), and make sure there's coolant in the reservoir.
- I am not sure if this is going to fill the coolant reservoir for number 1, so if it does I’ll just make sure to put enough to where it’s at the max line. If it doesn’t:
  • Setup the air vac tool on the main radiator cap (numbered #1 in the diagram) once the pressure gauge is at 25, I put the coolant in.
  • Take off the air vac tool
  • Fill it with coolant (to max line), and make sure there's coolant in the reservoir.
  • Setup the air vac tool on the second cap (numbered #2 in the diagram), again, once the pressure gauge is at 25, I let the coolant in.
  • Take off the air vac tool
  • Fill it with coolant as well (to max line), and make sure there's coolant in the reservoir.

  • Once both reservoirs have coolant, start the car for 10 - 30 seconds with RPM at 2k
  • Check the reservoir, and add coolant as needed.
  • Repeat the 2 previous steps 5 times until the coolant isn't draining anymore, or losing coolant.

Done!
side note: i am not really sure if the last 3 steps are needed because I am using an air vac, but I would still like to do it, in case anything.
I also have a big ass Home Depot bucket, which I plan on putting my 2 gallons of coolant in, and sticking the line from the air vac at the bottom so I don't have to worry about it sucking up air meaning I have to restart the process. I don't know if the 2 gallons is gonna be enough. I will get another one just in case...
 

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No problem sir, sounds like with the coolant refill-kit it will be easy process, having air in the system can cause temperature spikes or higher than average temps but generally speaking the car will just pull timing to cool things off if they start getting too hot. So unless you were driving around with low coolant for extended periods of time you should be fine.

You will likely need to cycle the car a few times on and off to refill the system as there will undoubtedly be air trapped somewhere in the system but other than that once you are reasonable sure she is filled up a 15 minute test drive to let things get up to temp is a good plan, I own a G37 but more or less followed the below video when I swapped my coolant hoses 2 weeks ago and haven't had any issues.

 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No problem sir, sounds like with the coolant refill-kit it will be easy process, having air in the system can cause temperature spikes or higher than average temps but generally speaking the car will just pull timing to cool things off if they start getting too hot. So unless you were driving around with low coolant for extended periods of time you should be fine.

You will likely need to cycle the car a few times on and off to refill the system as there will undoubtedly be air trapped somewhere in the system but other than that once you are reasonable sure she is filled up a 15 minute test drive to let things get up to temp is a good plan, I own a G37 but more or less followed the below video when I swapped my coolant hoses 2 weeks ago and haven't had any issues.

Thank you, and the instructions I posted earlier is that correct. Also the coolant when I bled it, was perfectly fine and nice bright blue color. I think when it hit the bottom of the radiator and cover is when it got dirty.
 

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2018 Q50 RS AWD. Black on Black on Black
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regardless, after buying the airlift/coolant refill from harbor freight I cant see ever bleeding a coolant system the old fashion way ever again
This👆🏾
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Hood Light Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive fuel system

No problem sir, sounds like with the coolant refill-kit it will be easy process, having air in the system can cause temperature spikes or higher than average temps but generally speaking the car will just pull timing to cool things off if they start getting too hot. So unless you were driving around with low coolant for extended periods of time you should be fine.

You will likely need to cycle the car a few times on and off to refill the system as there will undoubtedly be air trapped somewhere in the system but other than that once you are reasonable sure she is filled up a 15 minute test drive to let things get up to temp is a good plan, I own a G37 but more or less followed the below video when I swapped my coolant hoses 2 weeks ago and haven't had any issues.

I did the steps I said, but mixed some stuff up:
- When I connected to the main radiator cap (the one with the hose not reservoir), it already filled my radiator reservoir up some, and so I just added coolant to fill line. Afterwards I air vac the intercooler and heat exchanger cap, I started the car revved it couple of times to open the pump and stuff, coolant went down, I filled again. Did this 6-7 times until I decided to stop. Let it run for like 10 minutes and all of a sudden I notice the radiator reservoir was way too high. I slowly open reservoir and take some coolant out until fill line. Turned car again and let it run, now it’s the same exact thing. I attached a photo. Furthermore, the heat gauge is at 3/4 so I decided to call it quits… idk what to do. PS the intercooler reservoir is perfect, it goes down when I rev it but not too much and is pretty stable. For context: reservoir #1 is the one that’s overflowing, and cap #2 is perfectly fine

Edit:
The reservoir caps were mixed up, so I got them good now. The pressurized ones go to #1 and #2 and the main radiator line one doesn't get a pressurized cap. I am going to keep the car running for 10 - 15 minutes, and see if there's any changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
View attachment 111109

I did the steps I said, but mixed some stuff up:
- When I connected to the main radiator cap (the one with the hose not reservoir), it already filled my radiator reservoir up some, and so I just added coolant to fill line. Afterwards I air vac the intercooler and heat exchanger cap, I started the car revved it couple of times to open the pump and stuff, coolant went down, I filled again. Did this 6-7 times until I decided to stop. Let it run for like 10 minutes and all of a sudden I notice the radiator reservoir was way too high. I slowly open reservoir and take some coolant out until fill line. Turned car again and let it run, now it’s the same exact thing. I attached a photo. Furthermore, the heat gauge is at 3/4 so I decided to call it quits… idk what to do. PS the intercooler reservoir is perfect, it goes down when I rev it but not too much and is pretty stable. For context: reservoir #1 is the one that’s overflowing, and cap #2 is perfectly fine

Edit:
The reservoir caps were mixed up, so I got them good now. The pressurized ones go to #1 and #2 and the main radiator line one doesn't get a pressurized cap. I am going to keep the car running for 10 - 15 minutes, and see if there's any changes.

Edit 2:
After letting the car run for 15 minutes, it only gets to a little less than half on the heat gauge, and when I let it cool, the coolant in the reservoir diminishes and gets to right about minimum. My intercooler reservoir is perfectly fine, sometimes fluctuates when I press the throttle but is consistently between the min. and max. Hopefully, tomorrow after I install my reinforcement bracket and the remaining parts in the front, I can re-install my wheels and take it for a test drive for like 20 minutes to make sure everything is okay.
Edit 3:
This is the third day the car is still having issues. I used the airlift tool exactly, waited until it hit 25, and then let the coolant in until the gauge read 0, but before the gauge hits 0, it would automatically stop sucking in more coolant, and afterwards it would be way above the max line, so I would take some out until the actual max line and let the car run. This time around it did not float or overflow the reservoir especially since I put the cap. I let the car run for an hour or more (don’t remember exactly), and had the heater on full blast, it worked! I thought… it stabilized in the middle area just like normal, but I then turned off the heater, within minutes it went to the 3/4 line. And that’s when I turned it off. I am thinking of tossing this air lift to, and instead use the burping method. I also realized that if I did this wrong on the radiator, it could mean I ****** up when charging the intercooler, but the reservoir is stable and so I am not really sure. However, the radiator aspect I am completely stumped, I tried messaging and talking to a couple of people apparently nobody has bled the radiator before… at this point this **** is just a diary or “support” to someone who has this problem in the near future… i am optimus prime, and I send this message to any surviving VR30 bleeding problem owners who are taking refuge amongst the stars. We are here, and we unfortunately are not alone. We are waiting
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Edit 3:
This is the third day the car is still having issues. I used the airlift tool exactly, waited until it hit 25, and then let the coolant in until the gauge read 0, but before the gauge hits 0, it would automatically stop sucking in more coolant, and afterwards it would be way above the max line, so I would take some out until the actual max line and let the car run. This time around it did not float or overflow the reservoir especially since I put the cap. I let the car run for an hour or more (don’t remember exactly), and had the heater on full blast, it worked! I thought… it stabilized in the middle area just like normal, but I then turned off the heater, within minutes it went to the 3/4 line. And that’s when I turned it off. I am thinking of tossing this air lift to, and instead use the burping method. I also realized that if I did this wrong on the radiator, it could mean I up when charging the intercooler, but the reservoir is stable and so I am not really sure. However, the radiator aspect I am completely stumped, I tried messaging and talking to a couple of people apparently nobody has bled the radiator before… at this point this ** is just a diary or “support” to someone who has this problem in the near future… i am optimus prime, and I send this message to any surviving VR30 bleeding problem owners who are taking refuge amongst the stars. We are here, and we unfortunately are not alone. We are waiting
Edit 4: fixed. F*k your vacuum coolant tool, nothing beats 1900BC technology

edit 5: it overheated… in a McDonald’s drive thru at 10:20PM. I turned off the car, and am letting it cool then I’ll put heater full blast and drive home. Terrible situation. I decided to follow the service manual exactly, and it was driving perfectly fine until towards the end of the night where it just overheated to the point smoke appeared. Idk what to do…

I was thinking and realized something. I only overheat when idling or standing still, but once I pick up speed the gauge for heat goes down even, and is perfectly fine. Anyone familiar?
 
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