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How much will they charge me? An estimate. All my years working on cars I’ve never taken anything to a shop before or even dealer
I don't know... Like you, I have never taken my car to a shop.
A few years ago, I purchased a scope and it has come in handy a few times.

What ever the cost is, it is lower than fixing/replacing an over heated engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·

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I only got the code which I mentioned on the other thread relating to my remote start. Also, if one of the module is broken does that affect both fans? I only purchased one, so I replaced only one side but I wouldn't be surprised if one of them isn't working so both don't work... How would I be able to look at the IPDM? It all looks very confusing and the fuses I checked were all functional
I really don't think you have a fan control module problem. If you don't want to ring out continuities and voltages as outlined in the SM, I suggest you bite the bullet and take the car in for diagnostics. If it isn't a wiring problem, then it's likely the IPDM CPU and I wouldn't recommend you replace the IPDM on your own. It isn't plug and play.
 
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Based on the hanging wires, missing inner wheel well, dried coolant residue, missing/removed bumper cover it looks like you are trying to repair a crashed/damaged Q60.

That means you can have multiple issues that are stacked on top of each other.

Are you trying to fixed a crashed/damaged Q60?
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Based on the hanging wires, missing inner wheel well, dried coolant residue, missing/removed bumper cover it looks like you are trying to repair a crashed/damaged Q60.

That means you can have multiple issues that are stacked on top of each other.

Are you trying to fixed a crashed/damaged Q60?
Correct! It’s what I do.
I’ve done it with M35,G35,G37x,Q50, and now Q60. This is the lightest damage to be honest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I really don't think you have a fan control module problem. If you don't want to ring out continuities and voltages as outlined in the SM, I suggest you bite the bullet and take the car in for diagnostics. If it isn't a wiring problem, then it's likely the IPDM CPU and I wouldn't recommend you replace the IPDM on your own. It isn't plug and play.
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I went to a junkyard and luckily they had a 3.7 Q50. Took the relays and ****… I get close to 11.5 on the multi meter meaning that my relay is getting power…
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I really don't think you have a fan control module problem. If you don't want to ring out continuities and voltages as outlined in the SM, I suggest you bite the bullet and take the car in for diagnostics. If it isn't a wiring problem, then it's likely the IPDM CPU and I wouldn't recommend you replace the IPDM on your own. It isn't plug and play.
I want to locate the cord that connects to the radiator fans, but I can’t see it anywhere. I want to check if there’s continuity there. That’s the only thing I haven’t verified
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
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I checked the continuity from the relay near the battery to the right radiator fan, and none of the smaller ones got hit except for the big one, specifically on the far right. I think you were right, I don’t see how 2 motors could go out at the same time unless I did something stupid, but I don’t recall…
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
This forum is to help Q owners, not people who don't know what they are doing and trying to fix/flip a crashed car.
It will be interesting to see how much help you get going forward.
Excuse me, but that’s such bullshit. First of all I only work on Nissan cars because of my interest not for profit reasons. I’m planning on keeping this Q60 for maybe a year because it’s my dream car, but I don’t share that with you because it’s none of your business. I try my best to help others and communicate on this forum by making it active, but if you think I’m “taking advantage” of the community or even try to insinuate some other bullshit feel free to let me know and I’ll delete my account in the hour, and remove every post I’ve created. I’m trying to be respectful to you because you’re probably older than me, and tried helping me, but taking this stance and attitude isn’t acceptable even for your maturity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I really don't think you have a fan control module problem. If you don't want to ring out continuities and voltages as outlined in the SM, I suggest you bite the bullet and take the car in for diagnostics. If it isn't a wiring problem, then it's likely the IPDM CPU and I wouldn't recommend you replace the IPDM on your own. It isn't plug and play.
Hey Avedis, I've been thinking about this the entire day, even now. Is there a IPDM diagram somewhere? I want to take apart the IPDM tomorrow, and completely diagnose the continuity. If this doesn't work then I'll take it to a radiator shop or something that specializes in cooling . . .
 

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I see... You rely on the kindness and donation of time/knowledge of others to help you fix the crashed car and and then sell it for a profit. Not cool, I'm out.
Pretty rude and assuming facts not in evidence.

This forum is to help Q owners, not people who don't know what they are doing and trying to fix/flip a crashed car.
It will be interesting to see how much help you get going forward.
Many of the members I've helped here over the years didn't have a clue about what they were doing, and some were salvage cars. The OP is a Q owner and asking for help. You have a choice to offer help or ignore the request. I don't see how passing judgement on someone's efforts is productive or necessary.
 
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Hey Avedis, I've been thinking about this the entire day, even now. Is there a IPDM diagram somewhere? I want to take apart the IPDM tomorrow, and completely diagnose the continuity. If this doesn't work then I'll take it to a radiator shop or something that specializes in cooling . . .
Have you check for power at the cooling fan control module 1 connector? With the ignition off, disconnect the E167 connector, turn the ignition on, and check the voltage between pin #3 and ground. You should see battery voltage.
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Have you check for power at the cooling fan control module 1 connector? With the ignition off, disconnect the E167 connector, turn the ignition on, and check the voltage between pin #3 and ground. You should see battery voltage.
View attachment 111337
I connected power to the battery, and ground to terminal 3… when the car was turned on, but no AC I got 14.46, when I turned on AC I got 14.36

I’m suspecting, I don’t have ground? Not really sure how I know this, but just a feeling. I tried connecting power to terminal 1 and ground to battery, got 0.00 by the way this is on 20V, but when I connected power to battery and ground to terminal one two and three, I get a response. I’m not too knowledgeable on electricity so apologies if I sound oblivious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Have you check for power at the cooling fan control module 1 connector? With the ignition off, disconnect the E167 connector, turn the ignition on, and check the voltage between pin #3 and ground. You should see battery voltage.
View attachment 111337
Avedis, the craziest thing just happened… I called a shop to see how much they would charge me for a diagnosis and the dude just said, yup your problem sounds like a fan switch issue. Didn’t even ask me to bring it in or charge me for anything, he just straight up told me. Now I’m wondering where the fan switch is…
 

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Avedis, the craziest thing just happened… I called a shop to see how much they would charge me for a diagnosis and the dude just said, yup your problem sounds like a fan switch issue. Didn’t even ask me to bring it in or charge me for anything, he just straight up told me. Now I’m wondering where the fan switch is…
A shop? Not an Infiniti shop? There is no fan switch unless he's referring to the cooling fan control module. ECU tells the CPU in the IPDM what fan speed to run and that CPU sends a PWM signal to the cooling fan control modules that in turn provide the proper voltage.
 
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