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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
A shop? Not an Infiniti shop? There is no fan switch unless he's referring to the cooling fan control module. ECU tells the CPU in the IPDM what fan speed to run and that CPU sends a PWM signal to the cooling fan control modules that in turn provide the proper voltage.
… I thought it was this haha. But I think this is the coolant temp? Long story short I tried to see if there’s anything in my multi meter, and got 0.00 even when the car is off, I thought this was my switch because it connected to the fans and stuff.
Anyways yeah I asked just a radiator shop which should be knowledgeable about this kind of stuff right? Infiniti said they’d need 2-3 for a diagnosis and want $170. I don’t have 2-3 days currently because I’m taking the car to the body shop today for paint. When the car is done I’m going to take it to this Russian guy who has an amazing scanner tool and he’s very good on cars, I’ll have him find the issue and he’ll take anything cause he’s a good friend. If he can’t find the issue for whatever reason THEN I’ll go to Infiniti and just have a full diagnosis of the car not only for this problem but for peace of mind because I’m going to be using it for school almost everyday I don’t want it breaking on me in case I did something wrong.
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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
A shop? Not an Infiniti shop? There is no fan switch unless he's referring to the cooling fan control module. ECU tells the CPU in the IPDM what fan speed to run and that CPU sends a PWM signal to the cooling fan control modules that in turn provide the proper voltage.
Avedis,
In the service manual it refers to IPDM E/R Harness connector, is this referencing the white connection cords? I attached a screenshot from the SM you cited, and the picture of my IPDM. Do they want me to check EVERY cord?Or is there a specific one that's relating to the cooling fans. This was my previous question in case it didn't make sense. Thank you again
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Avedis,
In the service manual it refers to IPDM E/R Harness connector, is this referencing the white connection cords? I attached a screenshot from the SM you cited, and the picture of my IPDM. Do they want me to check EVERY cord?Or is there a specific one that's relating to the cooling fans. This was my previous question in case it didn't make sense. Thank you again
View attachment 111348

View attachment 111349
I'm assuming the IPDM for the Q60 is the same as the Q50 which I don't know for sure. Here's a diagram of the Q50 IPDM and its connectors. The SM is referring to a specific connector number, and in the case of the procedure you listed above, connectors E120 and E121.

Font Parallel Schematic Rectangle Diagram

You need to disconnect the E120 connector and looking at the face of the connector, find pin #7, and measure for continuity between that pin #7 and a good ground point. Likewise, for connector E121 and pin #41.
 
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Do you think this is still the issue even if it’s giving out the correct voltages to the relay?
Please don't take this the wrong way but it doesn't sound to me like you've done much electrical troubleshooting. A relay has two sides, did you check the power to the coil or the output from the relay when the relay coil is energized? I don't know what you did.

I've shown you which connectors and pin numbers to check the IPDM ground circuit for continuity. The steps outlined in the SM are what you should follow to determine where the problem might be.
 
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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Please don't take this the wrong way but it doesn't sound to me like you've done much electrical troubleshooting. A relay has two sides, did you check the power to the coil or the output from the relay when the relay coil is energized? I don't know what you did.

I've shown you which connectors and pin numbers to check the IPDM ground circuit for continuity. The steps outlined in the SM are what you should follow to determine where the problem might be.
Update: I did as follows, unfortunately they’re not identical from what I noticed. However, the points where I was supposed to check continuity there were pins there.
So, they both have continuity. I have taken photos of the harness themselves so you’d see which ones I’ve tested for visual accuracy. I’ve only tried these two, and not the rest.
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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Please don't take this the wrong way but it doesn't sound to me like you've done much electrical troubleshooting. A relay has two sides, did you check the power to the coil or the output from the relay when the relay coil is energized? I don't know what you did.

I've shown you which connectors and pin numbers to check the IPDM ground circuit for continuity. The steps outlined in the SM are what you should follow to determine where the problem might be.
I understand. What I did is checked the voltage of the relay connectors and made sure they were getting power to begin with, and they were! I then put the ground on the control fan module and power to one of the connectors of the relay, they were also getting same exact power.
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With the ignition off, disconnect the E167 connector from the #1 cooling fan control module. It's the only 3-pin connector on the module. The other two are 2-pin connectors that go to the two cooling fan motors.

Rectangle Font Material property Parallel Pattern


Turn on the ignition and measure the voltage on pin #3 to a ground point. You should see battery voltage.
 
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
With the ignition off, disconnect the E167 connector from the #1 cooling fan control module. It's the only 3-pin connector on the module. The other two are 2-pin connectors that go to the two cooling fan motors.

View attachment 111382

Turn on the ignition and measure the voltage on pin #3 to a ground point. You should see battery voltage.
Wait, Avedis I have 2 control modules, is the right side number 1 or is that the left side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
With the ignition off, disconnect the E167 connector from the #1 cooling fan control module. It's the only 3-pin connector on the module. The other two are 2-pin connectors that go to the two cooling fan motors.

View attachment 111382

Turn on the ignition and measure the voltage on pin #3 to a ground point. You should see battery voltage.
Update:
I turned on car, put the power to pin #3 and ground to the car ground connector, and I got 0.00v but when I connect power to battery and ground to pin 3 I get the battery voltage. Does this signify anything?
TLDR:
Power to pin 3 does notning
Ground to pin 3 and power to battery I get voltage
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Update: I think there's a shortage on the front left of my vehicle, WHICH WOULD MAKE SENSE! That's exactly where the previous damage occurred so having a shortage or a wire broken there would make sense to me. Either later today or early tomorrow I am going to take off the fender, light, bumper and everything on the left side and start cutting up harnesses and looking inside if there's a connection. Because both of my modules don't seem to be getting power (not 100% sure on this yet) meaning the shortage most likely happened before the wires split into two. I am about to go buy 5 rolls of black electric tape so I can put them back into a DIY "harness"
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
With the ignition off, disconnect the E167 connector from the #1 cooling fan control module. It's the only 3-pin connector on the module. The other two are 2-pin connectors that go to the two cooling fan motors.

View attachment 111382

Turn on the ignition and measure the voltage on pin #3 to a ground point. You should see battery voltage.
Talked with my Russian friend. He says I either need a new Charge air cooler temperature sensor, or pump or the wiring. He showed me this from his diagnostics tool
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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Is anyone aware that if the coolant in the intercooler can affect the radiator fan from not turning on or something?

Recently replaced the Charge air cooler coolant temp sensor, think that was gonna do something because the scanner said that was an issue, but there was no difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
UPDATE:
So I purchased a Charge Air Cooler Coolant Temperature Sensor because the scanner tool said that was a problem (whether it is, I have no clue.) Anyways though most importantly: Today I took a relay and I cracked the exterior housing, so I could see the inside (this is an extra relay I had laying around). I connected it to the Radiator Fan relay connector inside the fuse box, and I manually clicked on the relay which made it think there was a signal, the other relay near the battery made a noise like it turned on which should signal the fans to turn on... but they didn't! I already tested the fans themselves, so I know they work! Meaning there is a short on the relay connection between that and the module connector...
I am going to learn how to find a short on my multimeter tonight on Youtube, and going to verify there is there really is a short or not, if there isn't then I give up, and I am going to pay $200~ for a diagnostic from Infiniti... (hopefully not)
 

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More likely an open that a short.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
With the ignition off, disconnect the E167 connector from the #1 cooling fan control module. It's the only 3-pin connector on the module. The other two are 2-pin connectors that go to the two cooling fan motors.

View attachment 111382

Turn on the ignition and measure the voltage on pin #3 to a ground point. You should see battery voltage.
Avedis,
I remember beginning of this post you mentioned the PDSM or something, basically the computer of the vehicle which tells the radiator cooler when to turn on. I think that’s the issue because:
Today I watched a video and did this trick where you create jumper wire on the relay housing. I did and the radiator fans worked… meaning there’s no open cable between the 2 relays and the cooling fans. I showed a photo of what I did basically jumped both power spots together. The video said that when you turn on AC there should also be 2 other signals to let the fans turn on. I checked if there was continuity or power going to the two other spots on the relay housing, and there was nothing. This goes for BOTH radiator cooling fan relays… I think you were right, I’m going to research to see how I can diagnose this problem. I’m just worried because this is the only problem I’ve noticed on the car, why did it have to be THIS?
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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Update… it’s solved!
The most ironic and dumbest issue ever. Previous owner installed LP fuel pump… there were 2 extra fuses he added with an adapter to a single fuse… it was extra power which apparently wasn’t even needed! However, one of them was blown… we simply took off the blown one connected the other fuse directly to the IPDM (LPFP wire), and WALLA. Literally all my issues with the vehicle were resolved. Include the radiator fans!
after math: I am left with messy freaking cables I have to cable manage, make everything tidy and clean again, but I will do this AFTER paint.

Again, I want to thank you guys for all your help, the time and dedication you put to assist an oblivious idiot as myself. It really means a lot, the amount of support provided in this forum, and activity has been nothing short of phenomenal. Thank you! I wish to contribute more to this forum and help others who have faced similar problems.
best regards,
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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Hehe...
Hey guys,
The dumbest thing happened: I fixed my car and everything, but I didn't put the IPDM cover back, fuse covers, etc. Because I still wanted to fx the cables and manage everything to put the fender liner... I decided it was time to clean the car because it was very very dirty, and took it to these guys near me couple of mexican kids, not an ounce of english but I speak a little spanish and I was able to convey that I needed the car detailed and stuff. They were very nice, and offered to do it. Well within a couple of hours, they bring the car back. All clean and beautiful, then as they're talking with eaechother I notice the car smoking, I quickly run to it open the hood and it turned out the car is overheating... I noticed my radiator fans weren't working. I get a towl then slowly manage the coolant, and I realized.. THEY PRESSURE WASHED MY ENTIRE ENGINE BAY HEAD ON. All my radiator fan fuses were blown, luckily my driver side fuse box still had the cover, but everything else was soaked. under the battery was still water and everything. I figured I just need new fuses for the radiator fan and looked at every vehicle's fuses at the junkyard. I ONLY found 2 working ones (50a low profile). The other 2 I paid $10~ from Advanced Auto parts for. I put all the fuses and the fans still don't work..

I added direct power to the fans and made sure they still work.
I added 20v directly to the relay sits (passenger, T box), that worked.
I checked all my fuses in the IPDM, they're all fine.
I disconnected ALL the IPDM connectors and realized that water has gotten in there.

Do you guys think my IPDM is fried? I purchased a new one for $60~ but it delivers in a week, but I was wondering if anyone else had any thoughts, or maybe there are certain connections I gotta check. Keep in mind all shrouds and covers were gone (brake cover, brake fluid cover, side covers, etc.)

I know it was mainly my mistake, so I still paid them for the car, I was not about to be rude and arrogant, felt too bad.
 
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