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Well, that's a neat damn mod I never knew about. Curious if it affects cabin A/C when the drag valve is off. What are the pros/cons to a chilled setup?
He said it doesn't affect the cabin A/C much at all. Pro's are that you have "boost weather" all the time, no matter what the ambient temperatures are, and your tune can safely handle more timing, which equates to more power and torque. Another would be that you'll never get heat soak. The con's are the cost and added complexity.

It just depends on how deep into it you want to go. Like if you're eventually planning to go with Garrett G25-550's or 650's then yeah definitely do it, because it's just more protection for your engine, because at that point, you have to have a built motor so why not spend a little more and give that investment more protection.
 

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Wasn't aware of all the bad outcomes from the Killer Chiller. Thanks for that link @xBlitzkriegx

If I was to do one, I'd go the FI route for sure.
 

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2018 Q50 RS AWD. Black on Black on Black
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Right? I think I'm going to forego that right now and just accept that I won't perform as well for 2 months out of the year during the day. :LOL:

Thankfully temps at least get down to mid/high 70s at night which is doable, and I'm mostly commuting during the day anyways. Jealous of our friends up north for sure.
This is a much better financial decision.
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Curious though, I plan on going to the drag strip to get some 1/4 mile times next Wednesday. Will the stock HX hold up for a run in ~70F weather if I give it ample time between runs or will it heat soak before the end of the 1/4 mile?

Essentially would a HX significantly improve times for just a run?
 

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Curious though, I plan on going to the drag strip to get some 1/4 mile times next Wednesday. Will the stock HX hold up for a run in ~70F weather if I give it ample time between runs or will it heat soak before the end of the 1/4 mile?

Essentially would a HX significantly improve times for just a run?
Guess there's one way to find out!
 
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Curious though, I plan on going to the drag strip to get some 1/4 mile times next Wednesday. Will the stock HX hold up for a run in ~70F weather if I give it ample time between runs or will it heat soak before the end of the 1/4 mile?

Essentially would a HX significantly improve times for just a run?
Stock cooling will be fine for a 1/4 mile run with plenty of cool time between before the next one. Probably start running into problems after 2 in a row though. I've done a couple within 20 mins without any issue on bone stock Luxe running JB4 plus 7 psi map.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Stock cooling will be fine for a 1/4 mile run with plenty of cool time between before the next one. Probably start running into problems after 2 in a row though. I've done a couple within 20 mins without any issue on bone stock Luxe running JB4 plus 7 psi map.
Awesome, thanks for letting me know.

What fuel do you run your +7 map on? Currently on pump 93 but debating an E mix just for the strip.

I also still haven't decided what map or config I'm going to use. Thinking I'm going to post a few +3 logs here the day before, and then see what I can dial in for map 6.

Also, are the fuel wires worth installing for a 1/4 mile run? I have them but I wasn't planning on installing them unless they had a significant enough performance increase.
 

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Awesome, thanks for letting me know.

What fuel do you run your +7 map on? Currently on pump 93 but debating an E mix just for the strip.

I also still haven't decided what map or config I'm going to use. Thinking I'm going to post a few +3 logs here the day before, and then see what I can dial in for map 6.

Also, are the fuel wires worth installing for a 1/4 mile run? I have them but I wasn't planning on installing them unless they had a significant enough performance increase.
Well, I WAS on just pump 93 and ran Map 5 (which is +7) for a long time before adding WMI kit. Now I am running plus 9. WMI is also great at counteracting hot weather...I logged this yesterday in 98F weather here in St. Louis. Not sure how it would hold up to multiple pulls though as it does not have any effect on water or oil temps, just final charge air temps (this was the 2nd pull I did). Anyway, this was 1st chance I had to try in very hot weather and am very impressed with the timing values!

Regarding the fuel wires, it is a marginal increase in power...no hurry in getting them on, but I say if you have them, you might as well activate them. Maybe after you get your baselines and are looking for those marginal increases in power.

Slope Rectangle Font Line Parallel
 

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Dream car enthusiast weather. I'm sure your elevation is near sea level too.
Makes for great DA's.
When I had the Q50, the 'boost weather' felt really great. But on my B58, it seems to favor hot weather better than cold. Not that it terribly performs on cold weather though, it just feels a little peppy on warm/hot days. Like this week in TX!
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
When I had the Q50, the 'boost weather' felt really great. But on my B58, it seems to favor hot weather better than cold. Not that it terribly performs on cold weather though, it just feels a little peppy on warm/hot days. Like this week in TX!
Interesting. I'm not familiar with the B58 but I wonder what it's intercooler system looks like.
 

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Hey guys,

I don't have a HX yet, but it is the next thing I plan to buy - and I'm curious. How does it actually impact hot weather performance?

I have noticed lately that my car feels like a Civic during the afternoon when outside temps are ~90F (no accell), but in the evening when it drops to ~70 it feels like a Q50 again. And this is on the first pull of the day after getting up to temp. I don't have concrete numbers yet since my JB4 isn't here but the butt dyno shows significant difference.

I was under the impression HX helped prevent heat soak in normal weather after a few runs, but I'm curious what the actual impact is in hot weather.
Bro I have 2017 Q50 30t I live in Az and I have the AMS heat exchanger and my car still feels like ****. Loses power you can’t get on it because it feels like geo metro.
 

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Interesting. I'm not familiar with the B58 but I wonder what it's intercooler system looks like.
It's a bit smaller and sits on one side of the bumper, although I'd have to check what the total coolant capacity is.
 

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it's really not. user logs from southern areas and even mishimoto have shown heat soak to the point of pulling timing with the stock HX. the aftermarket ones, while they do better, are really nothing more than a hedge against the inevitable. for most people, an aftermarket HX probably is the answer but its still an issue after a single pull, lots of low speed driving, or even just extended idling. recovery times with bigger HXs do generally allow for a "reset" of temps but youre still dealing with 100+ degree temps to start with. remember, no a2w (without an icebox) or a2a HX is capable of below ambient temps.

an interchiller is undoubtedly more complex and expensive but it guarantees below ambient temps at all times. this allows for less overall stress on various systems, far more consistent temps, and finally the ability to tune more precisely because of the aforementioned positives.

i have to agree with you on the price, theres no way around it. however, this is an example of when you really do get what you pay for. here's a nice link from FI's website with a comparison to another company's product. Killer Chiller Reviews and Change Over Legal Agreement Form – Fi Interchillers Online Store

So then how does this compare, or with (or not), water/meth injection? ...intercoolers?

First, i dont know anything about anything, so easy on the responses....ha....but hooking your AC compressor to your intake, no matter how professional or expensive, seems a bit hokey. Why not change to intercooler and water meth, or similar?

Neither pull on your motor, like a(n overspinning) compressor. In Texas...we dont do 'no AC' in summer, should something go wrong. I've seen the ice go in the drag cars...no idea what that is...yet.

Just seems excessive and intensive, system wise, for how much gain? Risk and cost is high, for sure, if you use AC as a performance upgrade. (Ever pay to troubleshoot a regular system? Increase that exponentially should **** go sideways on this.)

Im sure that it works, on the simple physics of it, but how many of you guys would actually consider this? As a silly example, I mean i could have 'a Coleman' mounted in the trunk with ducting and coolant tubes and what not, but is that really a practical solution?

I know there's money here, so let's assume that's no object. That being said, not a lot of interchillers around, that i can tell.

Teach me. I'm at the beginning. Tuesday, my car gets all cooling systems upgraded and a couple added. Im here to learn.
 

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So then how does this compare, or with (or not), water/meth injection? ...intercoolers?

First, i dont know anything about anything, so easy on the responses....ha....but hooking your AC compressor to your intake, no matter how professional or expensive, seems a bit hokey. Why not change to intercooler and water meth, or similar?

Neither pull on your motor, like a(n overspinning) compressor. In Texas...we dont do 'no AC' in summer, should something go wrong. I've seen the ice go in the drag cars...no idea what that is...yet.

Just seems excessive and intensive, system wise, for how much gain? Risk and cost is high, for sure, if you use AC as a performance upgrade. (Ever pay to troubleshoot a regular system? Increase that exponentially should **** go sideways on this.)

Im sure that it works, on the simple physics of it, but how many of you guys would actually consider this? As a silly example, I mean i could have 'a Coleman' mounted in the trunk with ducting and coolant tubes and what not, but is that really a practical solution?

I know there's money here, so let's assume that's no object. That being said, not a lot of interchillers around, that i can tell.

Teach me. I'm at the beginning. Tuesday, my car gets all cooling systems upgraded and a couple added. Im here to learn.
an interchiller doesnt provide cold air in to the engine. it works by using an additional evaporator core embedded within a container of coolant. the evaporator works exactly the same as it does inside your cabin except it cools the intercooler coolant instead. depending on several factors, it can/will cool your coolant down to or below freezing regardless of outside temps. that, in turn, cools your air temps significantly.

the system is on anytime your a/c compressor is on which, for modern vehicles with auto climate control, all 100% of the time. an interchiiller will also allow you to delete your heat exchanger if you chose, its not longer needed. keeping it would actually introduce heat into the system, rendering it less effective.

the risk is basically zero. the compressor is always on anyways and the additional coolant and lines arent significant enough to really tax any compressor too much. the price is high because a system has to be fabricated specifically to each vehicle and theyre also low volume sales.

the high price is mainly why you dont see many interchillers around, especially on cars at this price/performance point. higher hp s/c'd cars use this quite often. theyre FAR more common on hellcat equipped vehicles. ppl who can afford to have 950rwhp cars can afford an interchiller considering that two tires cost more than the interchiller.
 
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an interchiller doesnt provide cold air in to the engine. it works by using an additional evaporator core embedded within a container of coolant. the evaporator works exactly the same as it does inside your cabin except it cools the intercooler coolant instead. depending on several factors, it can/will cool your coolant down to or below freezing regardless of outside temps. that, in turn, cools your air temps significantly.

the system is on anytime your a/c compressor is on which, for modern vehicles with auto climate control, all 100% of the time. an interchiiller will also allow you to delete your heat exchanger if you chose, its not longer needed. keeping it would actually introduce heat into the system, rendering it less effective.

the risk is basically zero. the compressor is always on anyways and the additional coolant and lines arent significant enough to really tax any compressor too much. the price is high because a system has to be fabricated specifically to each vehicle and theyre also low volume sales.

the high price is mainly why you dont see many interchillers around, especially on cars at this price/performance point. higher hp s/c'd cars use this quite often. theyre FAR more common on hellcat equipped vehicles. ppl who can afford to have 950rwhp cars can afford an interchiller considering that two tires cost more than the interchiller.
Ok...ok....good information. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
the high price is mainly why you dont see many interchillers around, especially on cars at this price/performance point. higher hp s/c'd cars use this quite often. theyre FAR more common on hellcat equipped vehicles. ppl who can afford to have 950rwhp cars can afford an interchiller considering that two tires cost more than the interchiller.
It was my understanding that the hellcats came with an interchiller. Even drag valve functionality through the infotainment system.
 
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