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Okay, okay. You guys have shamed me into putting in the low pressure fuel pump. So that's done now.

On that note, I hope whichever engineer decided to put the IPDM in that crap location gets bitten by their dog when they get home.
And whoever put the passenger LDP O2 sensor connector where it is!
 

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Ordered Infiniti/AMS intakes yesterday. Of course they are backordered. Once those are in, can proceed with tune. Also ordered GPS adapter cable to be able to use factory GPS antenna with Tesla screen. Progress halted :/

I am thinking about tackling exhaust next. Trying to find the right combination of parts. Will probably do resonated lower downpipes if I can find some in a 3" variety and a 3" full catback.

Other considerations for what's coming next are front/rear sway bars, fender coolant tank, Amp/Sub, or start collecting SPL suspension components to prep for RSR active coilovers.

I am basically trying to do the prep work that would provide a solid foundation for this car in case I decide to keep it and go big turbos for next summer instead of buying a new Z06. If I do go full send with this car, I will probably be looking at a full build including boring it out to 3.2L, Garretts, build trans, and all supporing mods.

Anyone have any advice?
Does anyone here have the bored 3.2L block? If you go all out like that, your Q will be a force to be reckoned with.
 

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Hello peeps. I am getting close to ordering a sleeved block. Anyone have any input into Wet vs Dry sleeves for this build. My goal for this car beyond 1000 awhp is to be able to drive the thing on a modest boost level daily.
Your modest daily boost level will still make me look like a 2.0t.
 

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Alrighty ladies and gents,

I need help with the mother of all First World Problems...

So I think I'll have somewhere between $6000 and $8000 saved by the end of this month for Betty.

Then I figure I can save something around $1000/month beginning next month.

But my "dilemma" is that to do next.

Some things I am considering buying next are:

Block and forged internals (~$6000)
Stage 2 interchiller & mishimoto intercoolers (~$4500)
Keep saving for dropbear turbo kit w gt25-660's (~$11,000)
Built trans (~$6000)
Cf driveshaft and LSD (~$2500)
All the fuel system upgrades (~$5000)
Lower downpipes and full exhaust (~$2500)

I was really looking forward to picking up dropbear wmi injection system next, but it's currently out of production to make capacity room for their turbo kits.

Anyone want to vote?

Things I can install and enjoy on the car now while saving are the interchiller/intercooler, driveshaft/LSD, and exhaust.

But my biggest line items are the turbo kit, motor, and trans. But all of these will sit in the garage until all of the rest of it it purchased and installed.

What to do, what to do...🤷🏽‍♂️🤦🏽‍♂️🤷🏽‍♂️🤦🏽‍♂️
My take (I might be very wrong) is that you're in a sticky spot picking between all of these mods because they almost all compliment each other. I organized my thoughts on the approach of building everything first and doing the power-adding down the line. As unexciting as it is, it might save you money in the long term as opposed to just chasing power until something blows.
  1. I think the Block & Forged Internals will be the best spot to start with. It will give you the headroom down the line to slap on most of these other mods without worrying about if the engine can handle it. I'm sure Hussain @ Racebox can also do some terrifying stuff with it and the dropbear turbos.
  2. After those, I am tied for built trans and lower downpipes/exhaust. Honestly surprised you didn't have the LDP/CBE yet. However at the power levels you are approaching, you are already at the customary 500hp line everyone says the VR30 7AT is considered reliableto. I'd do one of these
    • NOTE: This is about where your budget seems to run out - and that's why I said my approach was boring. No doubt Hussain would be able to do something cool with a built block/trans, but I think if you start here, then your build will be insanely capable once you start bolting on the fast stuff
  3. After these, I would go upgraded turbos, though I would probably do it all at once since you'll have to drop the subframe anyways. Racebox seems to be pretty experienced with these on B&Cs kits since they collaborate with B&C a good bit.
  4. I am very interested to see the logs with that interchiller. I don't think we have anyone on the forum who runs one (to my knowledge) and on paper they provide the best possible CAT. Combined with the Mishimoto ICs, that would put you in a great place.
  5. I don't know if you need a driveshaft yet since you have AWD. Not too sure I've seen any driveshaft failures here, but I guess you're also in a different realm from the most of us. I assume you want to do this together with the LSD for ease of install though.
  6. Honestly I would ask your tuner about where the E85 stuff should fall on your list. I know ethanol is very helpful for this platform on stock turbos, but I have no familiarity with this platform when it's completely built and has aftermarket turbos.
May I also make a suggestion? The Syveks AWD controller has helped many shave time off their 60ft, and I think you might have very good luck with it. At the power levels you will be making, you will probably need this and a rear LSD to hook well since the stock AWD controller will start trying to go RWD once you're rolling.

EDIT: If you want more power now, I would say do LDP/CBE, Interchiller, LSD - then upgrade the rest.
 

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Since the big stuff is just going to sit for a while, I’d probably buy one big thing and two little things. Like maybe the block and the LSD and drive shaft, for example. That way you have a big ticket item ready and smaller mods to keep you busy in the mean time.
I'm mostly with you, but I would honestly wait to install any of the big stuff until you have all 3 of the big things. That way you don't have to disassemble your car three times. I think built motor/built trans/turbo kit should happen at once.
 

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I thought about this too. But everyone and their dog has a 1000+ hp GTR. I enjoy breaking molds. 😊
Huge fan of this. I love the GT-R but everytime you see a GT-R with mods, you know it's going to be fast.

It's much more exciting to see a 4 door sedan modded to high hell beating a supercar than it is to see some supercar beat another supercar.
 

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On a side note, the wife has gotten back to me with what she wants.

It is linked here: FML
I refuse to spend that much money on a turbo 4.
That's part of the reason why I don't have an exhaust yet. I'm not trying to call attention to myself before I can back it up.

That and the turbo kit will have me redoing the exhaust anyway cuz I can seem to find a 3 inch exhaust lower downpipe combo that I like the sound of these turbos with.
What if you left the stock exhaust and added an electronic exhaust dump right off the downpipe? I could sell you one of my TCU modules that can output a 12v signal when you're in Sport mode.

That way it's dead quiet until you flick the drive mode switch, and then the valves open giving you the increased performance. Only caveat would be finding someone to fab it.
 

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I really need to go through that thread again.

And someone to barney-style explain it to me 🤣
The TCU is a module in the AV deck that controls power to the AV system, controls the SOS button, and provides remote monitoring and start/stop/lock/unlock/panic via cellular. Unfortunately, Infiniti killed off all of this functionality for 2020 and earlier model years by equipping them with 3G networking equipment that is now defunct.

My TCU module uses a microcontroller with Bluetooth/WiFi/Cellular connection to restore this functionality (except SOS button). Being on the CAN bus, it also has access to data on the CAN bus - meaning it can data log, expand stock functionality (open exhaust in sport mode), and more. It also allows you to remap the SOS button + LED to another function (I will be using it to enable/disable AWD with the Syveks AWD module instead of using the hazards). You can also control radio power (I will keep the radio on until the door is opened)

If you want to keep the Tesla screen, you can absolutely leave the stock infotainment system and replace the TCU. In fact, you will be able to open the TCU web interface to see and control the TCU functionality without a phone.
 

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View attachment 110833
Ok, that’s way more comprehensive than I thought! I’m curious Is there an adjustable GUI? For example, could I set up boost gauges, oil temp, oil pressure, voltmeter gauges ect anywhere on the screen and can I make them look like the speedometer and tachometer gauges? Can I change the boot graphic?

or is this a sneaky upgrade that no one knows is there as it quietly schemes to take over the world?
Well, I haven't gotten that far yet. Still finalizing the hardware. But that's completely within the hardware capabilities.
 

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Nice!! Now I’m getting excited too! Lol and you said a Tesla style doesn’t replace the TCU?
It always replaces the TCU, but the TCU does not affect the Tesla screen operation at all.

EDIT: My custom TCU module**. The Tesla screen preserves the stick audio system so nothing changes.
 
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