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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
I scheduled my first dyno for my 2019 Signature edition q50 AWD 3.0t. What are the parameters I should look to achieve for a successful first data log of my newly installed jb4 + ewg wires. I've read run map 2 and log from there but im not sure. 93 octane and no other upgrades, completely stock. Avg elevation is a couple feet above sea level here in maryland.
 

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Full disclosure - I have never been in presence of a dyno - but seems time is money, and each pull will generate heat. That being said, I would say the over/under for your car and fuel would be at Map 4 I would just start there so you don't waste time and generate heat with a conservative Map 2 pull. You could also test it on the road beforehand to make sure it is making power safely...just log a 3rd gear pull on the street 1st and make sure timing and AFR are in line.

What is your goal? Just get a power number or are you trying to develop a custom map 6 on the dyno?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'am trying to properly log the JB4 and create a safe and reliable driving experience with a little extra boost here and there when i decide to give it gas. I went with dyno because in my mind it seems to be the safest way to log instead of ripping a WOT on 3rd gear down some highway or something.
 

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Gotcha...very sensible. My advice was working towards max power...based on your goals I would say Map 2 or 3 would be a more conservative/safe setting so maybe stick with your original plan to start at Map 2 or maybe consider Map 3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Id be down to try map 3. What I was generally looking for was , what would be the most effective method of logging on a dyno. Like break it down for me like im a 8 year old step by step. Put car on dyno, click start logging on the jb4 and let it rip?
 

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Not sure if different on a Dyno but on the street the guidance is...
1. Start in Manual mode...about 2500RPM 3rd gear
2. FULL THROTTLE...all the say to redline
3. Shift to 4th and stay in it for a bit longer if it is SAFE.

What you are looking for is that the log looks good all the way through the RPM range and then see if after the shift timing advance returns instantly back into normal/healthy range. For a dyno, maybe you can stay in 4th a bit longer and take it up to high RPM also...not sure if that speed is compatible...assume dyno owner will be running the testing?
 

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How many pulls do you get? If you are new at this it's likely you won't get able to get much accomplished on the dyno unless you have a few hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Not sure if different on a Dyno but on the street the guidance is...
1. Start in Manual mode...about 2500RPM 3rd gear
2. FULL THROTTLE...all the say to redline
3. Shift to 4th and stay in it for a bit longer if it is SAFE.

What you are looking for is that the log looks good all the way through the RPM range and then see if after the shift timing advance returns instantly back into normal/healthy range. For a dyno, maybe you can stay in 4th a bit longer and take it up to high RPM also...not sure if that speed is compatible...assume dyno owner will be running the testing?
Yes i believe they will do the testing but they refuse to do anything with a jb4 so ill see if he can run the dyno on 3rd and 4th .. also i dont know what im looking for so ill prolly upload the logs lol
 

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Common man newb observation. This may sound flippant and sh$tty. I assure you it's not meant to be.

If your (responsible) tac is not 'rip down the road in 3rd' with the goal of 'a little extra boost when you need it' dynoing a JB4 seems excessive, both in terms of your driving goals and cost. They're great cars as they sit. I have read thousands upon thousands of posts on here...never seen a dyno for a jb4...along with your tuner won't touch it. That's a clue, i think.

Unless you are expert in tuning, you're missing the key benefit of a $250-350 dyno session...it's not safety. It's having a pro tuner, in a controlled environment, watch and adjust the car/tune between each hit. That's invaluable and immediate

The more reasonable (common) approach would be pedal commander, followed by JB4 maybe, if the PC isnt enough, in terms of feel for you, behind the wheel. You're at around $800 bucks on this (w/o dyno...add dyno you've reached a grand....but the above still applies.)

Other option, is an off the shelf, canned EcuTek tune...no dyno required. Those are strongish, not crazy, safe tunes on a healthy motor. Plug it in GTG off the shelf. Should you decide to bolt and 'turn it up' that option is there. Same money...$1000 give or take.

So cancel out all my observations...take the car and Jb4 to dyno make your passes. Without tuner help, you leave, study, get help from here and then need another dyno session to confirm positive changes and motor safety. Again....JB4 and two dynos...you're at a grand.

Plus, the generally preferred method, an ETek tune is much, much more than a boost controller, in terms of items that can be adjusted....way more bang for the buck than other options.

So I'm assuming, on the parts, you have $800-1000 to spend. Maybe consider different, 'stronger' options for your goal.

Of course the most cost effective option to meet your goal quickly and easily is research your area for a flat vacant road, install JB4 with fuel wires and start doing 3rd gear pulls and posting data here. If your willing to buy a used unit - always available here - you can pull your cost down to a few hundred bucks and be GTG in a couple of days.

Food for thought.

Good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Common man newb observation. This may sound flippant and sh$tty. I assure you it's not meant to be.

If your (responsible) tac is not 'rip down the road in 3rd' with the goal of 'a little extra boost when you need it' dynoing a JB4 seems excessive, both in terms of your driving goals and cost. They're great cars as they sit. I have read thousands upon thousands of posts on here...never seen a dyno for a jb4...along with your tuner won't touch it. That's a clue, i think.

Unless you are expert in tuning, you're missing the key benefit of a $250-350 dyno session...it's not safety. It's having a pro tuner, in a controlled environment, watch and adjust the car/tune between each hit. That's invaluable and immediate

The more reasonable (common) approach would be pedal commander, followed by JB4 maybe, if the PC isnt enough, in terms of feel for you, behind the wheel. You're at around $800 bucks on this (w/o dyno...add dyno you've reached a grand....but the above still applies.)

Other option, is an off the shelf, canned EcuTek tune...no dyno required. Those are strongish, not crazy, safe tunes on a healthy motor. Plug it in GTG off the shelf. Should you decide to bolt and 'turn it up' that option is there. Same money...$1000 give or take.

So cancel out all my observations...take the car and Jb4 to dyno make your passes. Without tuner help, you leave, study, get help from here and then need another dyno session to confirm positive changes and motor safety. Again....JB4 and two dynos...you're at a grand.

Plus, the generally preferred method, an ETek tune is much, much more than a boost controller, in terms of items that can be adjusted....way more bang for the buck than other options.

So I'm assuming, on the parts, you have $800-1000 to spend. Maybe consider different, 'stronger' options for your goal.

Of course the most cost effective option to meet your goal quickly and easily is research your area for a flat vacant road, install JB4 with fuel wires and start doing 3rd gear pulls and posting data here. If your willing to buy a used unit - always available here - you can pull your cost down to a few hundred bucks and be GTG in a couple of days.

Food for thought.

Good luck.
The tuner at the shop wont mess with the Jb4 is what I meant. Id like to do a full tune, however I'm under warranty so Im just looking i guess for the safest and cheapest way to get as close to a redsport as possible. I have also already bought a used Jb4 unit and I will not be installing fuel wires as I've read that if youre not running anything over 93 they are pointless. I got a pretty cheap deal on my dyno pulls and like I said above I figure its safer to just do some pulls in third on there than a vacant lot or open road.
 

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The tuner at the shop wont mess with the Jb4 is what I meant. Id like to do a full tune, however I'm under warranty so Im just looking i guess for the safest and cheapest way to get as close to a redsport as possible. I have also already bought a used Jb4 unit and I will not be installing fuel wires as I've read that if youre not running anything over 93 they are pointless. I got a pretty cheap deal on my dyno pulls and like I said above I figure its safer to just do some pulls in third on there than a vacant lot or open road.
🤙 Right on. Looks like a sound course.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Not sure if different on a Dyno but on the street the guidance is...
1. Start in Manual mode...about 2500RPM 3rd gear
2. FULL THROTTLE...all the say to redline
3. Shift to 4th and stay in it for a bit longer if it is SAFE.

What you are looking for is that the log looks good all the way through the RPM range and then see if after the shift timing advance returns instantly back into normal/healthy range. For a dyno, maybe you can stay in 4th a bit longer and take it up to high RPM also...not sure if that speed is compatible...assume dyno owner will be running the testing?
Hey I actually just reread this and I have one more question. What do you mean by Shift to 4th and stay in it for a bit longer if it is SAFE? What safety are you referring to?
 

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Hey I actually just reread this and I have one more question. What do you mean by Shift to 4th and stay in it for a bit longer if it is SAFE? What safety are you referring to?
Just literally physically safe. You are really going to be moving at that point. If on the street, you have plenty of room and are comfortable with the speed. In context of a Dyno, would be a matter of capabilities of the dyno to move that fast and if its safe to have the wheels moving that fast as it is secured in place. Again...I have never been in the presence of a Dyno so I don't know anything about what is safe or not on one. From some videos I have seen, that speed is probably not significant but the Dyno operator will be the one to determine that I suppose.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just literally physically safe. You are really going to be moving at that point. If on the street, you have plenty of room and are comfortable with the speed. In context of a Dyno, would be a matter of capabilities of the dyno to move that fast and if its safe to have the wheels moving that fast as it is secured in place. Again...I have never been in the presence of a Dyno so I don't know anything about what is safe or not on one. From some videos I have seen, that speed is probably not significant but the Dyno operator will be the one to determine that I suppose.
Gotcha, thank you for the clarification. I feel terrible bombarding the forums with a million questions. I just don't want to muck up anything with the car.
 

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Gotcha, thank you for the clarification. I feel terrible bombarding the forums with a million questions. I just don't want to muck up anything with the car.
Two possible issues with a dyno, i witnessed.

1. Hook up. Q in front of me needed a sprinkling of pimp juice to get good traction. Dunlops on it.
2. They will be pushing your car to it's limit, under load. (They set resistance on the rollers.) So stock or tuned it has the possibility of breaking...catastrophically - which they will not be responsible for. That's the understanding.

Baseline is always first, with knowledge about your car to determine motor health so it's not as risky as it may sound. But always good to go in 'eyes wide open.'

Other than that, they'll tie your car down like it was a Chinook trying to take off, but a big ass fan right in your grille and run it full tilt boogey....3-5 times was my experience. It is, though, the best, repeatable way to really dial in your car, taking away legal and safety risks, along with things lost in translation, doing the remote tune on surface roads.
 

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Two possible issues with a dyno, i witnessed.

1. Hook up. Q in front of me needed a sprinkling of pimp juice to get good traction. Dunlops on it.
2. They will be pushing your car to it's limit, under load. (They set resistance on the rollers.) So stock or tuned it has the possibility of breaking...catastrophically - which they will not be responsible for. That's the understanding.

Baseline is always first, with knowledge about your car to determine motor health so it's not as risky as it may sound. But always good to go in 'eyes wide open.'

Other than that, they'll tie your car down like it was a Chinook trying to take off, but a big ass fan right in your grille and run it full tilt boogey....3-5 times was my experience. It is, though, the best, repeatable way to really dial in your car, taking away legal and safety risks, along with things lost in translation, doing the remote tune on surface roads.

...and of course, the price of admission. You are paying for the machine and an expert to be running it and adjusting your car.

My cost from nothing, for Ecutek equipment, license, dyno and tune was right around $1800.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
...and of course, the price of admission. You are paying for the machine and an expert to be running it and adjusting your car.

My cost from nothing, for Ecutek equipment, license, dyno and tune was right around $1800.
what I might just do is finally install this jb4, data log map 2 or 3 on the road somehwere, and still dyno it just to see how much gains im actually getting.
 

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what I might just do is finally install this jb4, data log map 2 or 3 on the road somehwere, and still dyno it just to see how much gains im actually getting.
If you got the coin and just really gotta know...it's the only way to know the numbers for sure.

I'm new to the racing world, but I'm pretty sure we're 'off season.' Maybe hold off and watch for big events or shops available to you for a 'discount dyno day' when things start spooling up. One or two hits at $50 or $100 a piece and you're still ahead of the game on money.

I'm not doubling back on the thread right now for duplicate info, but there are those here that preach pedal commanders as the best thing invented since t!tt!!s....add that to a JB4 and you should be pretty pleased. Maybe take a look at those. I dont know anything about them, other than what they do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you got the coin and just really gotta know...it's the only way to know the numbers for sure.

I'm new to the racing world, but I'm pretty sure we're 'off season.' Maybe hold off and watch for big events or shops available to you for a 'discount dyno day' when things start spooling up. One or two hits at $50 or $100 a piece and you're still ahead of the game on money.

I'm not doubling back on the thread right now for duplicate info, but there are those here that preach pedal commanders as the best thing invented since t!tt!!s....add that to a JB4 and you should be pretty pleased. Maybe take a look at those. I dont know anything about them, other than what they do.
I will take a look thank you for the input. I got a list of things I wanna do to the vehicle maybe ill add that.
 
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