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2017 Q50 Red Sport 400 RWD
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I guess I'll find out in a few weeks when I have a free weekend to do it.

Which side is easier to connect driver or passenger? Im guessing driver side is easier and I should put the 2 ribbed inner seal connector on the passenger and have easier access to driver side when/if it doesnt fit.
The driver side is way easier. Test both on the driver side before moving over to the passenger side. The PS isn't all that that bad but can be a pain to reach down in there and work. Lift the large wire loom trunk up off its bracket and push it toward the DS to work with more room.
 

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I guess I'll find out in a few weeks when I have a free weekend to do it.

Which side is easier to connect driver or passenger? Im guessing driver side is easier and I should put the 2 ribbed inner seal connector on the passenger and have easier access to driver side when/if it doesnt fit.
The driver's side is easier unless you have an OCC (Mishimoto anyway). It's bracket has to be moved to access the harness connectors if you do. No big deal though. I'd try connecting both of the harnesses on the driver's side to see if there's any difference in how the connectors snap on. If both work equally as well on the driver's side then move to the passenger side and connect that side. There is a harness bundle that you can release from it's bracket that will help access the connectors on the passenger side.
 

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94007
My fuel wire bit the dust at this part of the wire is there any way to fix this without buying another set
 

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2017 Q50 Red Sport 400 RWD
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I think that's the one k ohm resistor for the driver side wire. You'll need to reconnect the separated wire back to the resistor. You could Peel off the heat shrink tubing and try to re-solder and then re-tube but I think I would give this a go first: Strip back your wire (not pictured) to expose 1/4" or so of fresh wire. Open up the original heat shrink tube opening just a little with a punch or nail and make sure you can slide your wire into it. Fill the tube with wire glue (use a tooth pick), and slide your wire into the heat shrink tube. Let it dry. Test the wire. Add your own heat shrink tube when the wire glue is dry and everything is tested.
 

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I think that's the one ohm resistor for the driver side wire. You'll need to reconnect the separated wire back to the resistor. You could Peel off the heat shrink tubing and try to re-solder and then re-tube but I think I would give this a go first: Strip back your wire (not pictured) to expose 1/4" or so of fresh wire. Open up the original heat shrink tube opening just a little with a punch or nail and make sure you can slide your wire into it. Fill the tube with wire glue (use a tooth pick), and slide your wire into the heat shrink tube. Let it dry. Test the wire. Add your own heat shrink tube when the wire glue is dry and everything is tested.
I’ll give it a shot thanks !!!
 

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hi terry

i have had jb4 for more than half year now and this is my first ever log after installed ewg wires today, Private file

i did a 20min test drive so the file size is bigger than allowed, does the log look okay? im no expert and not sure what i should be looking for, i think my afr is running too lean?

q50 rs, 93 octane, map1

thanks

---------------------

so i posted that on n54tech a week ago hoping terry can reply but it seems he isn't active on that thread no more, the only thing i can understand from the log is my afr is on high 14's (which i dont know if its good or bad), what happens if i add fw ?
Hey - pst me again with your file and I'll have a look when I'm at my pc. Also please post here your settings. The EWG wires require some extra setup on the JB4 app. Post ur duty bias, etc as per first post on th N54 forum and I'll have a look.
 

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I think that's the one ohm resistor for the driver side wire. You'll need to reconnect the separated wire back to the resistor. You could Peel off the heat shrink tubing and try to re-solder and then re-tube but I think I would give this a go first: Strip back your wire (not pictured) to expose 1/4" or so of fresh wire. Open up the original heat shrink tube opening just a little with a punch or nail and make sure you can slide your wire into it. Fill the tube with wire glue (use a tooth pick), and slide your wire into the heat shrink tube. Let it dry. Test the wire. Add your own heat shrink tube when the wire glue is dry and everything is tested.
I thought it was a 1k Ohm resistor.
 

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2017 Q50 Red Sport 400 RWD
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I think that's the one k ohm resistor for the driver side wire. You'll need to reconnect the separated wire back to the resistor. You could Peel off the heat shrink tubing and try to re-solder and then re-tube but I think I would give this a go first: Strip back your wire (not pictured) to expose 1/4" or so of fresh wire. Open up the original heat shrink tube opening just a little with a punch or nail and make sure you can slide your wire into it. Fill the tube with wire glue (use a tooth pick), and slide your wire into the heat shrink tube. Let it dry. Test the wire. Add your own heat shrink tube when the wire glue is dry and everything is tested.
Try using a seam ripper for the heat shrink. This is also a great tool for cutting any tape or coverings on a wire harness.

94027
 

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The driver's side is easier unless you have an OCC (Mishimoto anyway). It's bracket has to be moved to access the harness connectors if you do. No big deal though. I'd try connecting both of the harnesses on the driver's side to see if there's any difference in how the connectors snap on. If both work equally as well on the driver's side then move to the passenger side and connect that side. There is a harness bundle that you can release from it's bracket that will help access the connectors on the passenger side.
I have an Add W1 OCC which has a similar bracket to the Mishimoto one, but Im planning on installing at the same time as my BOVs so everything will be out of the way.

Like I said in my earlier posts I have some picks and extra RH04FB connectors from a Pathfinder/QX60 EGI harness that I can swap out if these jumpers dont fit, but these extra connectors have the 3 ribs on the inner seal.

I ended up looking up this connector info and there is only one inner seal part number for it (should have 3 ribs based on the drawing) and it has never changed, so I do not know why some of these only have 2 ribs.
 

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Try using a seam ripper for the heat shrink. This is also a great tool for cutting any tape or coverings on a wire harness.

View attachment 94027
Ha! My mom always had one of those next to her sewing machine. Right next to her red tomato pin cushion!


94029
 

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Ha! My mom always had one of those next to her sewing machine. Right next to her red tomato pin cushion!


View attachment 94029
Yeah its our go to for opening up harnesses. It will cut any tape, vinyl, or corrugated tubing. Not so great for hard tube or braided sleeves though haha.
 

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2017 Q50 Red Sport 400 RWD
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Yeah its our go to for opening up harnesses. It will cut any tape, vinyl, or corrugated tubing. Not so great for hard tube or braided sleeves though haha.
Smart. I always carefully use an inverted Xacto knife. But that runs the risk of nicking the underlying wire or its jacket.
 

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Technically fuel wires were made by BMS to lean out the AFR as stock VE30DDTT tunes can run overly rich at WOT. Running a richer AFR is a way to combat lower octane fuel, so if you could enrich (<3 Avedis) the AFR it would benefit those running 91. Technically, Terry @ BMS says that you can modify the bias on the fuel wires to adjust the target AFR, but I've asked and received no response on exactly how to do that. I.E. do you raise the number or lower the number to move the target. I don't feel like being the 1 to figure it out and post it because he can't bother to respond to the simple question when its been asked lol.
Did you ever figure out how to control target AFR?
This could be good for people wanting to richen up fueling on higher boost maps with lower octane, or richen up fueling with higher E%.
 

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Did you ever figure out how to control target AFR?
This could be good for people wanting to richen up fueling on higher boost maps with lower octane, or richen up fueling with higher E%.
@[email protected] shared a tip from Terry that he didn't publish. I haven't tried it, but this was it. It sounds like setting the fuel bias low vs. high is what will change the target AFR.

Map 6 Options:
Bit0 - On
Bit1 - On
Fuel Bias (he had me set to 30 across the board - 3000-7000 for testing)
 

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@[email protected] shared a tip from Terry that he didn't publish. I haven't tried it, but this was it. It sounds like setting the fuel bias low vs. high is what will change the target AFR.

Map 6 Options:
Bit0 - On
Bit1 - On
Fuel Bias (he had me set to 30 across the board - 3000-7000 for testing)
And i am assuming this can only be done with the fuel wires?
Does AFR still read accurate/normal with the fuel wires when logging?

with my FI CBE being 3months out, i decided to just pick up a used JB4 while i slowly do all other bolt ons / supporting mods before getting HPFP / flex fuel and custom ecutek tune. but i'd love to tweak AFR to keep it slightly on the richer/safer side with E30, I have LPFP coming to hopefully help handle the E30 mix. Max numbers are less of a concern then overall safety, ill go for numbers more with custom tune just want something to hold me over in the mean time. Probably just going to run a custom map 6 at 5psi on E30 for the time being until i switch to ecutek.
 
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