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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Burger Motorsports recently released a fully integrated meth kit that tailors boost to meth flow and cuts boost if either the flow drops or you run empty on meth. You can adjust boost as well as prime the system all from your phone. I'm not going to go through the entire install since Burger has an install document, but I did do it differently and was able to keep EVERYTHING in the engine bay aside from the JB4 OBD2 cable and a single power wire that is hot on ignition only. I have the service manual and could not find a SINGLE fuse that was hot on ignition only, so ran it to the driverside foot well and took over the power socket fuse location (shout out to RS400newbie for this).

Goals:

I was not interested in A) running straight meth or boost juice, B) having to mount the pump and tank in the trunk, and C) run the lines all the way through the car.

Make sure you putty all the fittings to prevent leaks. I live in a hot climate so wanted the cooling affect. I also am looking for this to help keep those pesky intake valves clean and carbon free.

Here are some tips on what I did and how I did my setup:
Pic 1- Oh look, we already have a "meth reservoir" under the hood....i.e. the windshield washer tank. I wouldn't run straight meth in this tank but, since -20*F windshield washer fluid is ~40% methanol, this gets you a tank for free, just drill a 2nd hole and run the feed line from the reservoir to the pump. Don't get windshield washer fluid that has all the "bug cleaner" additive. Get the cheap stuff as recommended by many of the big time meth vendors. Make sure not to drill through the middle of the cap as there is a tiny vent hole in the center of the cap. You'll also notice the pump fits in the driver side cubby along with the JB4, FSB (fail-safe meth flow controller that wires to the JB4 and solenoid), and meth solenoid. You can't close the lid, but given that I don't have to find a place to physically bolt the pump down or deal with the PITA of getting to the pump, I'll take it. The pump should also be above the reservoir level.

Pic 2 This is the passenger side injection point. On this side there IS a gap between the A2W output and the throttle body. I bought a 2.75" coupler and a jam nut. Drilled a hole in the coupler, added some locktite as we don't want this coming loose, and installed. You'll also note the distribution block by the cowl behind the motor. I ran it this way so the driver and passenger side are equidistant from the nozzles so they get equal flow.

Pic 3- Overall engine bay pic.

Pic 4 driver side coupler
Enjoy!
 

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I see you’ve been a lot busy lately. Good work man!

Edit: I wonder what would the service advisor say upon seeing your engine bay when you take it in for service lol
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I see you’ve been a lot busy lately. Good work man!
haha thanks. Amazing what happens when I get a couple days off.
 

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Make sure whatever methanol-based washer fluids you use are not colored (green, orange, yellow) as they will have glycol in them. I'd be a little concerned about using WW fluid above 50% methanol as it can damage paint and rubber. Car wax and some plastics can also be impacted by high concentration methanol.

I would certainly check the MSDS of whatever WW fluid you are using to know exactly what's in it and at what concentrations.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Make sure whatever methanol-based washer fluids you use are not colored (green, orange, yellow) as they will have glycol in them. I'd be a little concerned about using WW fluid above 50% methanol as it can damage paint and rubber. Car wax and some plastics can also be impacted by high concentration methanol.

I would certainly check the MSDS of whatever WW fluid you are using to know exactly what's in it and at what concentrations.
yup, only the blue with no additives....like I said the cheap stuff lol. I've never seen WW fluid over 40% and it's actually lower than boost juice (49%) so I think it's the best of both worlds. High enough meth content to be effective, but low enough not to eat away at stuff.
 

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yup, only the blue with no additives....like I said the cheap stuff lol. I've never seen WW fluid over 40% and it's actually lower than boost juice (49%) so I think it's the best of both worlds. High enough meth content to be effective, but low enough not to eat away at stuff.
I wouldn't count on it being blue as a sign that it is alright to inject. A quick review of MSDS's for blue WW fluids shows some have sodium hydroxide and glycols in them also. Always check the MSDS. I see that the EU has banned methanol in WW fluid as of a year ago, but that was due to the toxicity of methanol from ingestion and inhalation.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yup, only the blue with no additives....like I said the cheap stuff lol. I've never seen WW fluid over 40% and it's actually lower than boost juice (49%) so I think it's the best of both worlds. High enough meth content to be effective, but low enough not to eat away at stuff.
I wouldn't count on it being blue as a sign that it is alright to inject. A quick review of MSDS's for blue WW fluids shows some have sodium hydroxide and glycols in them also. Always check the MSDS. I see that the EU has banned methanol in WW fluid as of a year ago, but that was due to the toxicity of methanol from ingestion and inhalation.
good thing I don't plan on drinking it lol. I forget if it was aquamist or D.O., but someone made a chart of the common WW fluids and their breakdown and content.
 

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good thing I don't plan on drinking it lol. I forget if it was aquamist or D.O., but someone made a chart of the common WW fluids and their breakdown and content.
I assumed you weren't from India. LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bumping this. Had to remove the kit for some work. It's hot as crap down south and running without the WMI and JB4 was pretty eye opening as far as how much quicker the car is with it. Adding boost and running cooler and making significantly more power, happy camper.
 

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Taking my car to the dyno Friday afternoon - WMI seems dialed in and the logs are looking good. Ditto the hot temps - it’s going to be a factor on the dyno for sure but I want to get a baseline with the WMI dialed in prior to my FI resonated CBE getting installed. Prior to the WMI install I was at 403whp/421tq. Hoping to get close to Terry’s 450whp numbers in late NTX July temps.

If anyone with a JB4 is wondering if they should get the BMS WMI it - stop second guessing yourself and do it. The feel of the car pulling with Map8 and a BA between 78-80 is amazing!

BMS WMI :D
 

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Bumping this as I'm also interested in WMI. What kind of numbers are you getting for the 40% ww fluid? I really like the idea of having it all in the engine bay since I too am not a fan of it being in the trunk and all that extra jazz. Z1 does make a meth injection coupler kit. Only slight drawback for some is if you want BOVs it takes their place. However, you can tap them just as you did your TB couplers. I personally would prefer the meth to go in pre-intercooler at least from all the research I've done saying it makes a difference between the two. How much of a difference? No clue but I'm willing to test it out in the future. Thanks for the write up btw, I will definitely reference this when it's time for me to do the same mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No Dyno numbers but has been 12.4 at 114 with throttle cut and was door to door with my cammed ls6 Camaro. Expecting to lower those times this winter. Water/Meth injection is best closest to the combustion chamber as possible because it will pull more heat out of the chamber. Injecting too far upstream will vaporize the injection which leases the effectiveness. Also I don't like the idea of potentially corroding the intercoolers.
 

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Bumping this thread... I wanted to give folks a heads-up on the use of methanol in the engine.

While the study in the provided link is for gasoline and alcohol blends, I'd be curious what the net effect of fogging the methanol into the intake tract has on engine wear. Apparently it is the by-products of burning methanol in higher concentrations that causes engine wear, especially in the areas of the combustion chamber. How high is the concentration due to fogging?

Regardless, for your viewing pleasure:

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ethanol and methanol are not the same thing obviously......And 100% methanol can be corrosive even though people use it for years and thousands of miles without any noticable wear. However, that is why I stick to WWF which is only ~30%, the rest is water. Throw in a bottle of HEET for race days if desired to bump the percentage. People who keep the mix to 50% or less actually report a CLEANER engine than those who just run straight gas or gas with ethanol. This is all separate from the added benefit of cleaner intake valves on a DI motor.
 

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Just for people outside the US, methanol is the same as denatured alcohol and/or methylated spirits!
 

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Just for people outside the US, methanol is the same as denatured alcohol and/or methylated spirits!
Uh....not exactly. Denatured alcohol is also called methylated spirits but it is not the same as methanol. Denatured alcohol is ethanol that has additives to make it poisonous to discourage consumption. The main additive has traditionally been 10% methanol, hence the term "methylated spirits". Other adulterants typically used are isopropyl alcohol, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone and methyl isobutyl ketone. In the US, denatured alcohol often has a greater percentage of methanol and can be less than 50% ethanol.

FYI!
 

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Hey Ddnspider, great writeup!

I was hoping to pick your brain re WMI for q50 with a few questions:

1. Do u think its worth it to wmi our cars? What sort of performance and other benefits have you seen w the BMS wmi setup? I have a 2016 silver sport AWD w megan pipes, 3" catback, jb4 w EWGs and fuel wires.
2. Could you give me more details about how you drilled into the couplers? Were they silicone? How did you get it so theres no leaks? Whats a jam nut, did some googling, wasnt sure exactly what you meant.
3. I read thru the n54 forums and saw that you did some revisions to your wmi setup. Are these pics your revised setup? Would it be fine to just use 2 couplers ie 1 per side rather than 1 on the passenger side and something else on the drivers side?
4. Is it best to inject into the couplers from the side, or is from the bottom better?

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks for all the help youve given the community on here and on the n54 forums.

Cheers,
Art
 
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