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Discussion Starter #1
Just recently installed JB4 stage 1 which I love . But I need to change my oil soon
Should I go with 0w-20 or 5w30?
 

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A little concerned only because I’ve seen a few people post about a blown engine
Will that happen at +3 psi?
 

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Both oil viscosity you mentioned are recommended per owners manual. Most owners I've seen are more comfortable with 5w-30.



There is little to no direct link between blown engine and oil viscosity used in VR30, unless we're talking about oil starvation. You may be seeing viscosity thinning due to fuel dilution overtime but no conclusive evidence that it'll cause blown engine. I think the common concurrence among owners is to change the oil sooner, e.g. 4k - 6k. I also don't think +3psi on JB would cause a blown engine either, especially on 300hp Sport trim like yours. You'd probably need to consult max how he did it (blown engine) though using JB4.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank for all the info. I’ll consider 5w30
As for changing map settings I don’t think I can as I don’t have the Bluetooth capability
 

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Fuel in your oil is the main issue in our cars with increased boost. Do not go over 5,000 miles between oil and filter changes. Blackstone told me to change mine between 3,000 and 4,000 miles. My % was 2% previously and 2.5% this last time. Both were at 4,000 miles.

From Blackstone:

JOHN: Fuel has been a pretty consistent finding for your Q50, but it increased this time to above 2.0%. It
could be a sign of a fuel system problem, or maybe it's the result of the tune you mentioned. Wear metals look very good for time on the oil, considering that this oil run was similar to the last, so the fuel isn't causing any obvious problems that we can see. It didn't thin the oil below grade, either. The TBN was 3.7, so there was active additive remaining in the oil, but keep oil runs in the 3,000-4,000 mile region while significant fuel is present in the oil.
 

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Just made the jump to 5-30. It's hot here and the added weight should help. Also, if you do racing, its typically recommended to over fill by 1 qt.
 

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If you're going to turn your car up, use 5W-30.

To echo what Ddnspider said, .5-1qt overfill is recommended.

John, more spirited driving (warmer weather?) on a tuned car will cause that increase.
 

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If you're going to turn your car up, use 5W-30.

To echo what Ddnspider said, .5-1qt overfill is recommended.

John, more spirited driving (warmer weather?) on a tuned car will cause that increase.
I'm still in the 49-50 deg weather so am staying at 0-20. Also, why AS tires are my summer tires due to low pavement/air temps. Snow tonight!!!

Yep, a bunch of hot pulls b4 my oil change. Seating in my brakes AND short trips before the drain. The catch can is getting some of it.
 

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Just made the jump to 5-30. It's hot here and the added weight should help. Also, if you do racing, its typically recommended to over fill by 1 qt.
Never, never, never overfill. It will cause foaming and may push more oil out of the breather resulting in more deposits on the intake valves. Could you please quote the credible source of this information? And please don't say "people on the internet".

If you feel that because you are racing and need more capacity get a bigger sump. If you feel that the extra oil will result in lower operating temperatures, get an oil cooler. Don't overfill.
 

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Never, never, never overfill. It will cause foaming and may push more oil out of the breather resulting in more deposits on the intake valves. Could you please quote the credible source of this information? And please don't say "people on the internet".

If you feel that because you are racing and need more capacity get a bigger sump. If you feel that the extra oil will result in lower operating temperatures, get an oil cooler. Don't overfill.
The factory oiling system has a cooler and I believe is also variable volume and pressure. You don't need a bigger sump for a whopping 1 extra quart. I quoted the overfill, as backed up by Loring, because we actually race. There are high g forces on both launch and high G turns which have been shown to cause significant pressure drops due to uncovering the oil pickup momentarily.

You don't automatically cause foaming because you run 1 extra qt as modern engines have windage trays to prevent exactly this. No idea where you're getting your info, but running an extra quart also has nothing to do with pushing more oil out the breather as its VAPOR not fluid coming out of the breather.
 

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I keep mine at the high mark and no further.
 

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A half quart to a quart of extra oil shouldn't hurt most engines, but it depends on the cross-sectional area of the oil pan. An extra quart will raise the level in a small 4-cylinder oil pan more than in a larger, 6-cylinder oil pan. How close the crankshaft is to the level of oil in the pan can also determine if over-filling can cause air entrainment.

The amount of oil required for an oil changes depends on whether the car is 2WD or AWD. 2WD holds 5 1/8 quarts. AWD holds 5 6/8 quarts.

The oil pump is variable pressure and volume as it is chain driven. Discharge oil pressures from the oil pump also depend on whether the car is 2WD or AWD. At idle, 2WD is at 5.8 psi while the AWD is at 14.5 psi. At 2,000 rpm engine speed, both the 2WD and AWD are at 24.65 psi.

I don't see any windage trays in the oil pan diagrams but there still could be.
 

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A half quart to a quart of extra oil shouldn't hurt most engines, but it depends on the cross-sectional area of the oil pan. An extra quart will raise the level in a small 4-cylinder oil pan more than in a larger, 6-cylinder oil pan. How close the crankshaft is to the level of oil in the pan can also determine if over-filling can cause air entrainment.

The amount of oil required for an oil changes depends on whether the car is 2WD or AWD. 2WD holds 5 1/8 quarts. AWD holds 5 6/8 quarts.

The oil pump is variable pressure and volume as it is chain driven. Discharge oil pressures from the oil pump also depend on whether the car is 2WD or AWD. At idle, 2WD is at 5.8 psi while the AWD is at 14.5 psi. At 2,000 rpm engine speed, both the 2WD and AWD are at 24.65 psi.

I don't see any windage trays in the oil pan diagrams but there still could be.
I believe Infiniti calls what is a traditional windage tray a "baffle plate". See item 6. Wierd setup, but I guess thats what you get when you have a 2 piece oil pan....1 metal 1 plastic lol.
 

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To @Ddnspider and @Loring

I have a lot of respect for you two but I am going to have to disagree on this one.

I tapped my nephew for an opinion on that belief of overfilling the crankcase. He is a pretty smart kid. He has a Masters degree in mechanical engineering. He currently works for Generac on special products. They are currently expanding their product line from standby generators to full time power supplies.

He has an '04 Honda S2000 that he tracks. Lowered, BIG brakes, striped out interior, no AC or radio, single Recaro seat. You get the picture. He turbocharged the engine. He originally did it with a kit but was not happy with the result so he started over from scratch. The underhood plumbing and ducting is a work of art. He also managed to tame the cooling issues. The result is 485 RWHP on E85. They had to put 200 lbs. in the trunk and have two people to sit on top of that to keep the wheels from spinning on the dyno.

So much for his qualifications. When I asked him what he thought about overfilling, here is what he had to say on the subject;

"Yea. I don’t agree with it. I’ll send some more detailed info later. I run it on top half of the dipstick hash marks. I have made changes to prevent the need through. I’ve got a baffle plate welded in the oil pan with trap doors to keep oil by the pickup. I also modified to baffle in the valve cover to allow oil to drain back down (and added a catch can). Common for oil to get stuck on the top side and then when going through a right hand turn get a cloud of smoke in the exhaust from the oil getting sucked through the intake via the PCV/breather. Essentially, overfilling is a half assed approach to treating the symptoms as opposed to the cause....".

I'm with him.
 

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To @Ddnspider and @Loring

I have a lot of respect for you two but I am going to have to disagree on this one.

I tapped my nephew for an opinion on that belief of overfilling the crankcase. He is a pretty smart kid. He has a Masters degree in mechanical engineering. He currently works for Generac on special products. They are currently expanding their product line from standby generators to full time power supplies.

He has an '04 Honda S2000 that he tracks. Lowered, BIG brakes, striped out interior, no AC or radio, single Recaro seat. You get the picture. He turbocharged the engine. He originally did it with a kit but was not happy with the result so he started over from scratch. The underhood plumbing and ducting is a work of art. He also managed to tame the cooling issues. The result is 485 RWHP on E85. They had to put 200 lbs. in the trunk and have two people to sit on top of that to keep the wheels from spinning on the dyno.

So much for his qualifications. When I asked him what he thought about overfilling, here is what he had to say on the subject;

"Yea. I don’t agree with it. I’ll send some more detailed info later. I run it on top half of the dipstick hash marks. I have made changes to prevent the need through. I’ve got a baffle plate welded in the oil pan with trap doors to keep oil by the pickup. I also modified to baffle in the valve cover to allow oil to drain back down (and added a catch can). Common for oil to get stuck on the top side and then when going through a right hand turn get a cloud of smoke in the exhaust from the oil getting sucked through the intake via the PCV/breather. Essentially, overfilling is a half assed approach to treating the symptoms as opposed to the cause....".

I'm with him.
I'll refrain from discussing your nephews S2000 as I'm sure he's proud of it just like anyone whose built anything. Per his comments, you're trying to compare a completely stock Q50 oiling setup to essentially a road racing setup with modified baffles and trap doors. You're also trying to compare a custom PCV/breather setup to a factory setup that is mean to pull a vacuum on the crankcase. Like many people seem to do, you and nephew are using information specific to a different platform and taking it as gospel for this platform. No one is arguing that a full race setup with a new pan, etc. is the best way to do it. But I don't see people shelling out the coin for a setup that doesn't even exist on this platform. When you can't or choose not to spend a bunch of money on a racing oiling setup, overfilling by .5-1qt IS an effective way to keep the oil pickup from being uncovered during hard acceleration.
 

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I'll refrain from discussing your nephews S2000 as I'm sure he's proud of it just like anyone whose built anything. Per his comments, you're trying to compare a completely stock Q50 oiling setup to essentially a road racing setup with modified baffles and trap doors. You're also trying to compare a custom PCV/breather setup to a factory setup that is mean to pull a vacuum on the crankcase. Like many people seem to do, you and nephew are using information specific to a different platform and taking it as gospel for this platform. No one is arguing that a full race setup with a new pan, etc. is the best way to do it. But I don't see people shelling out the coin for a setup that doesn't even exist on this platform. When you can't or choose not to spend a bunch of money on a racing oiling setup, overfilling by .5-1qt IS an effective way to keep the oil pickup from being uncovered during hard acceleration.
You make some valid points but I want to address your last sentence. "... overfilling by .5-1qt IS an effective way to keep the oil pickup from being uncovered during hard acceleration.".

If the oil pickup is being uncovered during hard acceleration that is a basic design flaw. I thought you were referring to extended hard cornering. Both the hybrid and RS 400 can achieve hard acceleration. Upping the HP a bit increases the Gs to what?
 

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I do have a question about the VR30 oil cooling systems. The service manual shows two engine oil coolers, one that is air cooled and one that is water cooled. What determines which oil cooling system is installed?
 

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You make some valid points but I want to address your last sentence. "... overfilling by .5-1qt IS an effective way to keep the oil pickup from being uncovered during hard acceleration.".

If the oil pickup is being uncovered during hard acceleration that is a basic design flaw. I thought you were referring to extended hard cornering. Both the hybrid and RS 400 can achieve hard acceleration. Upping the HP a bit increases the Gs to what?
There is a difference between a design flaw and using the product outside of its intended purpose :) The Q50 while a performance sedan was not really touted as a race car (even though many do race then *raises hand*). It's touted as more of a grand tourer. So when people start doing tunes, sticky/larger tires, upping the boost etc. and put it on an auto-x/road course/1/4 mile, it's not exactly doing what Infiniti intended it to do. Matter a fact, I'm sure some dealerships would be quick to void some warranties if they knew. I come from more of the drag racing side than auto-x/road course and have seen data logs on cars that aren't even cutting that good of 60ft time's and the momentary drop in oil pressure is downright scary. Some have even pulled an oil pan and kept increasing to see just how much the pans would hold. Even running 1 extra qt can make a significant difference in dynamic oil pressure swing during a hard launch; something the AWD Q's do quite well. YMMV, but it's how I roll :)
 
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