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Discussion Starter #221
FI has excellent customer service. It's drivable so no rush. But absolutely needs to be replaced. It may change my data logs as no 2 flow the same.
 

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That's a bummer John, but at least they stand behind their product, which is one of the things I love about FI. Hopefully they can't get you in the build queue quickly and get it shipped out to you.

How are you liking your RS-R active coilovers? If I want a leisurely drive, the standard setting is pretty comfy, but I usually end up driving in Sport+ mode. It's good, but obviously, I wish it was a little bit tighter and stiffer. Does the normal setting with RS-R stay close to the factory normal or is it also stiffened up a good deal?
 

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Did you hear the leak or was that discovered while the car was on the lift?
 

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How are you liking your RS-R active coilovers? If I want a leisurely drive, the standard setting is pretty comfy, but I usually end up driving in Sport+ mode. It's good, but obviously, I wish it was a little bit tighter and stiffer. Does the normal setting with RS-R stay close to the factory normal or is it also stiffened up a good deal?
I'll chime in, since I have the RS-R C/Os on my AWD Q60 Red Sport since May 2020. Note: I lowered my Q's ride height one (1) inch. The RS-R C/Os have a manual dampener adjustment, and I have both front and rear settings @ 8/36, which is eight (8) clicks from "Full Soft". As for ride quality, in "Standard" mode, the suspension response is firmer than the stock Monroe DDS suspension, but still quite comfortable, which was also helped with changing from the Dumflats to Michelin A/S 3+'s. In "Sport" mode, the response is firmer still, but certainly not interlorable.

IMO, RS-R hit it "out of the park" with their choice of spring rates and dampener design.
 

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I will probably go for the RS-R coilovers assuming I buy my car out at the end of the lease, but if I upgrade to them, it will be after the factory dampers wear out. They seem like a great upgrade. How does it align with the factory DDS setup? I'm guessing that we don't have 36 levels of adjustment from inside the car. Do you manually set what your base setting is and the DDS presets adjust from the base? Thanks for your review! I think it's going to be a great upgrade when I get to that point.

I can't wait to dump the Dumflops and switch over to A/S 3+. Michelin really has tires nailed. I can't think of a better tire I would want to use. When you buy Michelin's you know you're getting consistency. I tried Nitto's once on my '04 G35 Coupe and the rear end felt floaty and squishy at 70mph on the highway. I took it back to Discount Tire and had them put Michelins back on and the floatiness disappeared.
 

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I will probably go for the RS-R coilovers assuming I buy my car out at the end of the lease, but if I upgrade to them, it will be after the factory dampers wear out. They seem like a great upgrade. How does it align with the factory DDS setup? I'm guessing that we don't have 36 levels of adjustment from inside the car. Do you manually set what your base setting is and the DDS presets adjust from the base? Thanks for your review! I think it's going to be a great upgrade when I get to that point.
The 8/36 dampener setting is the baseline setting at the C/O level, and represents "Standard" mode (no magnetic fluid energized). When I switch to "Sport", "Sport+", or "Personal"("Sport" for Steering/Suspension), the RS-Rs firm up accordingly. Somewhere I read the RS-R magnetic fluid changes the dampener setting about 1/2 of full scale, so about +18 clicks, which would place the setting @ 26/36 clicks in "Sport" mode, when starting from an initial setting of 8/36 clicks.

The big motivation for me on my AWD Q60 was the desire to lower the ride height, and that could have been done with lowering springs or C/Os. I chose C/Os because I had negative experiences with lowering springs on other vehicles, and I wanted to maintain ride quality, which is helped by the C/O matched shocks and springs.
 
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Discussion Starter #227
Did you hear the leak or was that discovered while the car was on the lift?
Discovered on the lift. No sound or smell. From the looks, not a lot of exhaust is leaking from the splits.

It's drivable and can wait until they can get a replacement. I did tell Kevin it's not a rush. "At your earliest convenience" was how I worded it.

They are flat out filling customer orders. So I don't need it B4 inspection which is next year.
 
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I'll probably stick my head under the car and inspect those welds just to be prudent.
 

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Discussion Starter #229
That's a bummer John, but at least they stand behind their product, which is one of the things I love about FI. Hopefully they can't get you in the build queue quickly and get it shipped out to you.

How are you liking your RS-R active coilovers? If I want a leisurely drive, the standard setting is pretty comfy, but I usually end up driving in Sport+ mode. It's good, but obviously, I wish it was a little bit tighter and stiffer. Does the normal setting with RS-R stay close to the factory normal or is it also stiffened up a good deal?
Personally with my driving on roads with humps and whoopdedoos, a softer setting works. I'm 5 clicks from the softest in the front and 7 in the back. On install they were at the stiffest minus 5 & 7 clicks. The shop did it backwards.

Traction is biased on compliance, so with the roads I drive on softer is better. It's also better on expansion joints on the highway.

Maybe on a smooth track 15-20 click up from the softest might be better. After they were 1st installed at the stiff setting I tested them on a familiar road and it felt like I had 50 lbs of tire pressure and the car was unsettled. After I changed them the car was much more settled, and was still planted.

The rear are a bitch to reach to adjust and the "window" to open & close is difficult to get to. So 7 was a good compromise. The front are easy to reach and adjust. Since most of the weight is in the front stiffening them up for the track is easy.

I don't feel much difference between drive modes. It's there but not dramatic. Maybe the difference is more pronounced if they are adjusted on the stiffer settings?

I found the spring rate difference to be a bigger help. Much more noticeable. The car felt less like an aircraft carrier and more like a PT boat 🤣😂.

It's how the RS should have been. It's more like my G37IPL now. Hard to explain. Maybe more nimble, if a 4000 lb car can be nimble.
 

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My non DDS compatible is set at full hard up front and 6 from full hard for the rear.

DDS and non DDS are valved and sprung the same, I believe.

Yes, firmer than factory with sport setting, but not enough for me.

I am just reluctant to spend a stupid amount of money at this stage of my life to get a better setup. This car will most likely never see a track day.
 

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My non DDS compatible is set at full hard up front and 6 from full hard for the rear.

DDS and non DDS are valved and sprung the same, I believe.

Yes, firmer than factory with sport setting, but not enough for me.

I am just reluctant to spend a stupid amount of money at this stage of my life to get a better setup. This car will most likely never see a track day.
Have you considered tweaking the camber /toe or maybe have the car corner balanced instead? You may go through tires a bit faster but it would certainly
give you far more responsive and immediate handling for a lot less money.
 

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Have you considered tweaking the camber /toe or maybe have the car corner balanced instead? You may go through tires a bit faster but it would certainly
give you far more responsive and immediate handling for a lot less money.
At one time, I was at -2.2 all around with RE71R. It isnt the grip...it is the stiffness. The ride still feels floaty.

I am used to and prefer a much firmer ride without compromosing handling.
 

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At one time, I was at -2.2 all around with RE71R. It isnt the grip...it is the stiffness. The ride still feels floaty.

I am used to and prefer a much firmer ride without compromosing handling.
Did it always feel floating to you? If not and it felt more stable stock maybe you went too far with the modifications
specifically for the wheels/tires/brakes, all the bushings and suspension are calibrated to work with the OEM specification
so it could be an unintended result of the mods.

If not taht then it's probably due to the age of the FM platform it's just not as rigid as newer platforms, a roll-cage is pretty pricey
but would solve the issue. Me personally I'd start with Sway-bar and Endlinks but a good alternative to a age would be some
added chassis bracing.

Looks to be a fair bit cheaper and easier to install, could also go custom and have a shop fabricate something pretty easily for ya.

 

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It is definitely firmer than factory sport mode.

Just not firm enough.

Body feels tight. It is just the suspension.

You just swapped yours to the RSR. Give it a while and you may notice you want more.
 

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Discussion Starter #235
New Pilot Sport 4S's and front alignment today. Also rev 2 map from AMS to upload and data log.

A few bugs like the wrong key dongle # in the map file from AMS yesterday. That's fixed (hopefully when I upload it later today.)

Hopefully it will be dialed in b4 winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #236
New map uploaded..out for some logs. Alignment was a good thing. It tracks perfectly streight now. Tires are SMOOTH. We will see how they feel at 125.😉

I'm still out of power 15 hrs now. Generator is rapping away. (Diesel) LOUD! I keep the garage door closed to keep most of the noise down.
 

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New Pilot Sport 4S's and front alignment today. Also rev 2 map from AMS to upload and data log.

A few bugs like the wrong key dongle # in the map file from AMS yesterday. That's fixed (hopefully when I upload it later today.)

Hopefully it will be dialed in b4 winter.
They turn around tune updates quickly in most cases. Usually 24 hours or less has been my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #238
They turn around tune updates quickly in most cases. Usually 24 hours or less has been my experience.
Again the map had the wrong key #, but Jacob turned it around quickly. Starting is still rough. I'll try to do some data logging but my back and hips are shot.

At least I got my power back on. 👍👍
 
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Discussion Starter #239
Maps upload as Jake fixed it on his end.

I'm on the 4th map. Cold start is a mess, but a little better on the last update. Still takes 1600' to settle down. Pops etc.

WOT pulls pop ECU faults random misfires P0300-00. Flat spots etc. It will take some time. Downshift in automatic has a problem for the first downshift. 900 RPM give it what used to force the downshift..no da, a bunch more fuel and it downshifts hard followed by normal shifting up n down. It's just that one spot.

Weekend is coming up, so hopefully I get a new map b4 Saturday.
 
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John
Does AMS know what ther source of all this trouble is coming from? I would assume its the AMS injectors causing problems since I highly doubt its the turbos. My only other guess would be one of the fuel pumps but I doubt it.
 
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