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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I have put approximately 600 miles on the car since I got it lowered, so this should have been an ample amount of miles for the lowering springs to settle.

So, I got the SPC rear adjustable camber arms and toe links installed today.

Right after the install (which is the reason why the camber/toe is shown so high on the 1st alignment sheet's before measurements), I also got a 4-wheel alignment and got the rears dialed in at -3.5 degrees. The funny thing is, I had to do 2 alignments.

The 1st alignment seemed to have been dialed in correctly. But, after I had left the shop, the steering wheel wasn't straight when I was driving straight on a straight road. So, I had to immediately go back to the shop to get a 2nd alignment. It seemed as though right after the 1st alignment and after driving for approximately 8 miles, the passenger side toe went from 0.10 degrees to 0.51 degrees. This maybe could have been due to the SPC arms/links having rubber bushings and settling in within the short 8 miles that I had driven after the 1st alignment. Also, the rear toe becoming out of spec could have been the reason for the not-straight steering.

Well... so far, I've driven 15 miles and have tested some of my familiar bumpy roads at speed. The rears have very very slightly rubbed, but was nowhere near as severe or loud as before (-2.2 degrees camber). I'm gonna test out the current settings (-3.5 degrees) for a few hundred miles and will adjust accordingly.

The rear tires aren't poking any more and are just-about-right flush to me.

Anyways, enjoy the attached alignment sheets and photos of this setup (rears at -3.5 degrees camber).
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Additional photos attached of -3.5 cambered rears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
The day after I dialed in the rears to -3.5 degrees, I went on a mini road trip to San Francisco to test out the suspension: took the freeway there and back to Sacramento at varying speeds between 55 to 95 mph, and drove around the city on its under-maintained streets (potholes, bumpy roads, dips in the roads, steep inclines and declines, you name it) --- this equated to about 300 miles of driving... the rears still rubbed!!! :crying:

So, when I got home, I had to investigate why the rears were still rubbing. I took a look at the rear tires... there was damage to the rear tires, which looked like something was poking into and scraping through the tires. So, I jacked the car up and took a look at the inside inner fender's well. The rear tires weren't rubbing on the rear quarter panel like how I had originally thought --- They were rubbing on a Plastic Nut and its Blunt-Ended Screw that's attached (I believe welded) to the inside face of the inner fender well's sheet metal :eek:

See the attached pictures in the following post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
My solution to the rubbing was to get rid of the parts that caused the rubbing >:D

So, I pulled the inner fender lining back. Then I removed the Plastic Nut. Then i grabbed a vice grip and clamped onto the Blunt-Ended Screw and twisted and pulled it left to right and back and forth to remove it from the inner fender well's sheet metal. After doing so, a hole was apparent in the inner fender well's sheet metal. So, I cleaned the area around the hole in the inner fender's wheel well, and then put a velcro sticky pad (the scratchy part of the 2 parts for a velcro system) over the hole. Then i put the inner fender lining back in place, so it could stick to the scratchy part of the velcro sticky pad to keep it in place :nerd:

Note: There are 2 locations for the Plastic Nut and its Blunt-Ended Screw at each of the inner fender wells. There's 1 location towards the front, and 1 location towards the rear. The location towards the front was the one that rubbed. The location towards the rear did not rub.

After this fix, I again drove over my same familiar bumpy roads and have tested this fix for 30 miles now, and the rubbing has not happened yet (lol, yet) :) I'm going to test it a little bit more today and during my commute to work tomorrow. If all is well, I'm going to go get the rears adjusted to -2.4 to -2.5 degrees camber tomorrow after work. That way, I'll still get the added benefit of improved handling, utilizing the SPC parts that I had bought, and to make the rears look not as cambered --- at -3.5 degrees camber, it just doesn't look right to me because the camber angle is really visually apparent and odd-looking to me (I'm not a fan of the look of excessive negative camber) 0:)

Man, what a noob I am. I should have checked and investigated this and not have been lazy the first time I heard rubbing in the rears (at -2.2 degrees camber), then I probably would not have even needed the SPC rear adjustable camber arms and toe links (to save some money) :|

Anyways, I hope people who have read this post (and thread) will learn from my mistakes :laugh:

See the attached pictures in the following post.
 

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For the previous post, see pictures attached to this post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Done. I got the alignment dialed back to -2.5 degrees for the rears. Looks so much better compared to -3.5 degrees.

See the picture of the alignment sheet in the following post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Just thought I’d update this thread now that I’ve put some miles on my setup...

Stock Suspension with Conti Tires (compared to Stock Dunlop RFTs)
The car instantly doesn’t feel twitchy. The car doesn’t feel nervous taking sharp turns at higher speeds. The ride improved considerably even though I went up an inch in wheel diameter. Car feels ten times more responsive, especially when I have to navigate (e.g. weave in and out) through traffic. Traction increased in all aspects: launches and handling. The TCS light still flickers during WOT launches, but not nearly as frequent/long during a 0-60 compared to the stock Dunlop RFTs. The tires don’t screech nearly as loud when breaking traction compared to the Stock Dunlop RFTs. Best mod I’ve done to my car!

RS-R Down Sus Lowering Springs with Conti Tires
The ride is slightly harsher with this setup compared to Stock Suspension with Stock Dunlop RFTs. The ride is definitely harsher with this setup compared to Stock Suspension with Conti Tires, but still acceptable to me. The car feels more planted with less body roll taking corners. During a launch and between gear shifts at WOT, the front end of the car doesn’t “bobble” up and down as much as it did before. To me, the car looks perfect at this height!

Rubbing due to RS-R Down Sus Lowering Springs
After I had removed the Blunt/End Screw and Plastic Nut at the rears (see previous posts), my car was still rubbing over big bumps/undulations in the road at speed. The rear’s outer sidewall was rubbing the rear quarter panel’s inner fender well.

Lighter Wheels + Tires Combo
I didn’t really notice an increase in performance due to this (shaved 13 pounds for the fronts and 11 pounds for the rears). The increase in performance could very well be there, but it wasn’t something that was significantly noticeable. Also, the weight savings could have been offset by the rotational mass moving further away from the center of the wheel (i.e. the wheel barrel moving 0.5 inches further away from the center, and the mass of the tires moving further away from the center, and increasing the overall diameter/circumference of the tire compared to stock). Plus, I added about 35 pounds to the trunk with a spare tire.

So were most of my goals met? H3LL YEAH!

What would I have changed during these mods? Not getting the SPC Rear Camber Arms and SPC Rear Toe Links.

Do I regret going through with these mods? H3LL NO! (for now at least lol)

Note: I’m just a regular guy that likes to drive my car hard every now and then on the street (not a professional racer). I don’t track or autocross my car, and don’t foresee that I’d do so any time soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I read through this entire thread and have one question. Did you keep the stock shocks when lowering with the RS-R springs?
Yes.
 

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Hey I was going to do a similar setup like yours. I was thinking of going with tsw bathurst 20x9 +30 and 20x10 +40 with 255/35r20 and 295/30r20 firehawk indy500 tires. Also doing bc coilovers. Do you think I will be fine or I will have some fitment issues.
 

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How has the stock shocks held up if you're still rolling with the same setup? I want to lower mine on springs but at the least possible because I want to keep the DDS...meaning not too low. Apparently RSR Downs is the only choice for this?
 

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I searched the forum for lightweight wheels and found this thread. Nice writeup. Nice ride.
 
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