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I can comment about how “hot” my car runs. Before I added an extra thermostat to the lines running to the oil cooler (external cooler) I couldn’t get oil temps above 140 while driving if the ambient temp was under ~45F. 45F in Ohio really isn’t that cold. It didn’t matter how hard I ran it either.
Even with the extra thermostat and ~60F spring temps I’m still running right at 155-160F oil temps. In addition to this a pull will cause my coolant temps to drop below 160 in about 6 seconds which disables JB4 if the temp is below 45F. I’ve posted a JB4 screenshot of this in the oil temps thread a couple months ago.
I would have to say that the engine does cool well, almost too well in my case.
 
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I guarantee I drive my car harder and abuse it more than anyone who doesn't track, but also like I said an entire thread on the topic and people with 20m-1h commutes couldn't even get oil temp up to 160F. You would need some wide spread issue that is not present to claim it runs "hot"
Sure you can claim you harder then anyone else... Your car also has more dedicated cooling modifications than anyone else... Aftermarket Heat Exchanger, AMS Water Pump, oil cooler and trans cooler! If this platform really was as cool as you seem to think then those modifications would be pointless and yet you have them.

Also there is literally 20 pages of separate threads on this forum related to Heat Exchangers for this platform its one of the single
most common discussions on this platform, that wouldn't be the case if cooling was sufficient from the factory.

Again what heat soak? This isn't a VQ it doesn't run hot. On a track I'm sure it will, most cars will... , but not so much on the streets, at least I haven't seen many posts at all that they have, many to the contrary though, doing 10 back to back to back to back mix of 0-60,0-90, 40-90, 60-120 WOT runs in under 5 minutes time after oil was fully warmed up, I do this on a frequent basis even in 70F+ weather. Oil and coolant was not excessively high or much of a concern. Something I constantly watch and monitor whenever I drive. Have yet to hit any excessively high or too "hot" of temps.
Again you use yourself as a baseline when your cooling solution isn't even remotely close to stock and as I've already point out in one of my previous post environmental
temperatures can play a massive roll in how the cooling system performs.

Also 70F ambient isn't the average summer temperature for most of the US, heck even up here in Canada we have week long stretches of
85-90F weather. Of course then it will swing to 20F 3 days later and we will get snow but that's the price I pay living too close to the mountains.

Hah

Where in my post did I say aluminum was bad conductor?
You didn't state Aluminum was a bad conductor but you did say there was minimal heat transfer, which I disagreed with because the engine is almost entirely
Aluminum which is great at transferring heat.
"Heat soak in the intercooler system is completely different than oil and coolant temps. Yes it can have a very minimal impact on those from thermodynamic heat transfer but it is a non issue/concern for most."
 
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Aluminum has a higher thermal conductivity than any other commonly used metal except for gold, silver and copper.
 
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Does anyone here run Rotella? I have met some guys that swear by it.
Rotella was/is very popular with the Subaru guys. I have not seen much mention of it here.
 

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Aluminum has a higher thermal conductivity than any other commonly used metal except for gold, silver and copper.
I wonder if I can commission a solid gold intercooler?
 
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Sure you can claim you harder then anyone else... Your car also has more dedicated cooling modifications than anyone else... Aftermarket Heat Exchanger, AMS Water Pump, oil cooler and trans cooler! If this platform really was as cool as you seem to think then those modifications would be pointless and yet you have them.

Also there is literally 20 pages of separate threads on this forum related to Heat Exchangers for this platform its one of the single
most common discussions on this platform, that wouldn't be the case if cooling was sufficient from the factory.


Again you use yourself as a baseline when your cooling solution isn't even remotely close to stock and as I've already point out in one of my previous post environmental
temperatures can play a massive roll in how the cooling system performs.

Also 70F ambient isn't the average summer temperature for most of the US, heck even up here in Canada we have week long stretches of
85-90F weather. Of course then it will swing to 20F 3 days later and we will get snow but that's the price I pay living too close to the mountains.

Hah


You didn't state Aluminum was a bad conductor but you did say there was minimal heat transfer, which I disagreed with because the engine is almost entirely
Aluminum which is great at transferring heat.
"Heat soak in the intercooler system is completely different than oil and coolant temps. Yes it can have a very minimal impact on those from thermodynamic heat transfer but it is a non issue/concern for most."
my oil cooler is 1/3rd the size/capacity of the oem cooler and with zero airflow going to it (why? because I do not want to overcool it)
I am also making almost double stock non rs boost levels (16+ with little taper like most).
I also have so much random crap in front of my HE and radiator it doesn't get much airflow either.

People drive their car however they like and if someone drives it harder good for them, but the manufactures are not designing the car with the intent of it being driving how I do I can guarantee that. I have stress tested the car plenty was my entire point, but then I also referenced a thread of several other individuals having over cooling issues. So not just my personal account, and then the following post in this thread another user essentially repeated my sentiments with his personal account.

My car was stock at one point, and several stages there after, It did not start out with every mod on day one... However I have had oil and coolant temps monitored since day one with my scangauge and then later JB4. Obviously FBO + JB4 at +7psi map 6 (with little taper) is going to generate a lot more heat over stock, any car car would though. However stock is a different story.

I said 70F+ (not 70F tops) which is still substantially higher than the average temperature year round in any state. Obviously I've seen much higher temps than just 70F hence the + at the end.

but again heat soak in the intercooler system is entirely different than oil and coolant temps. Which this entire thing has been about oil temps and oil weights.

What relevance does heat exchanger temps have to do? you think even high 150F (much higher than I've sever seen) intercooler fluid temps are heat soaking warmer 190F oil temps? how is something colder warming up something hotter?

I never argued anything about the intercooler/heat exchanger not heat soaking. How is that related to the oil temps though... which is the entire context of this argument/discussion?

Heat exchanger/intercooler is a different completely unrelated story that has little to nothing to do with oil temps, or oil weights.
Sure obviously the heat exchanger has heat soak 100% agreed, but has nothing to do with oil though.
So I have no idea why you brought up heat exchanger heat soak in the first place.

The oil and coolant temps in this car run on the colder side. period. the end.
 

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I wonder if I can commission a solid gold intercooler?
If price is no object, I see no reason why you couldn't. It would cost more than the car is worth by an order of magnitude though.
 
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I wonder if I can commission a solid gold intercooler?
My buddy from Idaho put gold wrapping on his intercoolers, says hiw temps are generally a little bit cooler...
 

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Rotella was/is very popular with the Subaru guys. I have not seen much mention of it here.
Also Jeep guys... do you know anything about it? Supposedly its formulated for turbo vehicles.
 

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Also Jeep guys... do you know anything about it? Supposedly its formulated for turbo vehicles.
Sorry, but even though I had Subarus for 16 years, I never used it. I used to exclusively use Valvoline when I was younger, but now I will use Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, or Mobil 1 depending what I get the best deal on. I don't worry about changing up brands. My oil change intervals are short enough that I don't give it much thought or worry anymore.
 

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If price is no object, I see no reason why you couldn't. It would cost more than the car is worth by an order of magnitude though.
But will I then have to listen to rap music and throw away my belts?
 

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But will I then have to listen to rap music and throw away my belts?
Not to mention the additional expense of large gold chains and a grille for your teeth.
 
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Just had the dealer replace my oil last week with this oil.

One thought, would filling the oil in the middle of the max and min mark (like smack dab in the middle) be better than filling closer to max? Would that avoid excess oil from recirculating back to the valves?
Nope. Fill it up to the full line.
 

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Does anyone here run Rotella? I have met some guys that swear by it.
Only thing I'll run in boosted LS motors. It's not as good as it used to be but it's cheap and never an engine failure regardless of what I do.
 

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