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2016 Infiniti Q50 Premium AWD (w/Bose & Nav)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I am very happy with my performance improvements so far, but I wanted to come here and see what mods/changes I should do next to improve my results. I feel I am currently just above stock RS levels, and I really want to push a bit past that. Curious if my current plan looks okay.

I have about $2,500 set aside that I can comfortably blow on mods so I was thinking spend this $500 now and then sell the JB4 (~$300) down the road and buy a Racebox tune/LPFP/AMS FF kit. Taking baby steps for now until warranty ends next month. That's why I am skipping EWG wires.

What do y'all think? Should I make any changes? Any better use of my cash?

Current Mods
Buying this weekend
  • JB4 w/Fuel Wires (installed)
  • Megan Racing Lower Downpipe
  • Axle-back Muffler Delete
JB4 Map 6:
  • 1500 = 3.0
  • 2000 = 4.0
  • 2500 = 6.0
  • 3000 = 6.5
  • 3500 = 6.5
  • 4000 = 7.0
  • 4500 = 7.0
  • 5000 = 6.5
  • 5500 = 6.0
  • 6000 = 5.0
  • 6500 = 3.0
  • 7000 = 3.0
  • BMS Heat Exchanger
  • Drop-in air filters
(I will then redo my map 6 using the logs from map 3/5 after mods installed)
 

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St. Louis, MO
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So you still have stock pipes between downpipe and your axle back? If so I would suggest replace that next. Consider adding a nice WMI kit before you get tuned...that would help you maximize value from your tune I would think and help keep the valves on that new motor clean.
 

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2016 Q50 Redsport 400 RWD
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306 Posts
Great plan imo
 

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So you still have stock pipes between downpipe and your axle back? If so I would suggest replace that next.
^This. Don't do the RaceBox tune until you get a proper CBE.
 

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2016 Infiniti Q50 Premium AWD (w/Bose & Nav)
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So you still have stock pipes between downpipe and your axle back? If so I would suggest replace that next. Consider adding a nice WMI kit before you get tuned...that would help you maximize value from your tune I would think and help keep the valves on that new motor clean.
Is the stock CBE more constricted than 2.5in? I can certainly start working on that if it's a real bottleneck.

WMI is also something I have been thinking about as well. Might need to read through @Ddnspider 's thread on it. I just want to make sure I can control it via a flash tune.
 

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Allen, Texas
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Yeah no - the WMI will need to have it’s own control as EcuTek does not have WMI integration.
 

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2016 Infiniti Q50 Premium AWD (w/Bose & Nav)
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah no - the WMI will need to have it’s own control as EcuTek does not have WMI integration.
I was considering building my own subroutine for it using my TCU.

The IO itself is relatively simple, I would just have to determine timing the flow from the tune somehow.
 

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Allen, Texas
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Your JB4 pairs well as a WMI controller… trick with your EcuTek tune would be to look at the WMI as a cushion vs requirement for your tune.
 

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I was considering building my own subroutine for it using my TCU.
The IO itself is relatively simple, I would just have to determine timing the flow from the tune somehow.
All you need to do is flow W/M at a certain boost threshold. You will want a visual confirmation that it is flowing via mechanical measurement of pressure in the lines. If you don't see the visual then you will have to switch to a lower boost map if you have a max boost map for WMI.
 

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Is the stock CBE more constricted than 2.5in? I can certainly start working on that if it's a real bottleneck.

WMI is also something I have been thinking about as well. Might need to read through @Ddnspider 's thread on it. I just want to make sure I can control it via a flash tune.
Stock pipe is only about 1.5” ID.
 
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100% skip the fancy progressive crap and just use a boost switch. The motor doesn't bog at all. Use my DIY kit as an outline. If you don't like the LED indication substitute an IO into your TCU stuff. And yes, stock exhaust is a massive bottleneck in diameter lol.
 

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Newport, Oregon
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Stock pipe is only about 1.5” ID.
I know the stock LDP inlet inner pipe diameter is 2.29" and the 1 foot of pipe exiting the secondary cat has an inner diameter of 1.68". I measured once with a micrometer. I would assume the rest of the OEM exhaust is the same as the inlet pipe diameter of 2.29". Isn't the SS pipe schedule 10?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I take it that the current consensus is to get a CBE after the HX, then follow that up with WMI. Certainly doable. My biggest concern is just getting Ethanol ready before my tune.

Follow up question: is there a significant reason to get a prefabbed exhaust over getting one made at a shop?
 

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So I take it that the current consensus is to get a CBE after the HX, then follow that up with WMI. Certainly doable. My biggest concern is just getting Ethanol ready before my tune.

Follow up question: is there a significant reason to get a prefabbed exhaust over getting one made at a shop?
One's been engineered and tested, the other is a bunch of welded pipe.
 
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Each side is 1.65 ID and 1.77 OD all the way to the muffler not considering the short piece where they merge before the resonators.
That puts it in between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 schedule 10 pipe.
Edit: wall thickness is insufficient for schedule 10
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Fair. I haven't ever had an exhaust fabbed so I assumed it could just be made to similar specifications to an OTC option.
 

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Each side is 1.65 ID and 1.77 OD all the way to the muffler not considering the short piece where they merge before the resonators.
That puts it in between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 schedule 10 pipe.
Edit: wall thickness is insufficient for schedule 10
Wasn't sure. Thanks for the update.
 

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Newport, Oregon
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Fair. I haven't ever had an exhaust fabbed so I assumed it could just be made to similar specifications to an OTC option.
You might get lucky with a custom-fabbed exhaust the first time, but I've seen several people here with shop-fabbed exhausts that ended up having to modify them because of drone or rasp.
 
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