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Congrats man can't wait to see you're results once they are installed!
 
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I'm still waiting on my front diff, driveshaft, turbos should be next week.

I'm surprised at how rough the interior is. Surprised they didn't smooth the inside walls for better laminar flow.

I had my intake manifold on my HD "bench flowed" and the inside was VERY smooth, not polished, but looked like a smooth brush finish.

I'd be tempted to clean the bumps off at the least. Some 600 grit wouldn't hurt any ether.

Unfortunately mine are being delivered to the shop not my home where I could clean up the inside walls a bit b4 they are installed.
 

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Hi John I appreciate your info on your build. I hope some day we have a road map going fwd as to what works and what does not, right now it seems every car being upgraded is a test bed. I follow some serious builds on Instagram and none of them seem reliable.
 

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Hi John I appreciate your info on your build. I hope some day we have a road map going fwd as to what works and what does not, right now it seems every car being upgraded is a test bed. I follow some serious builds on Instagram and none of them seem reliable.
I have news for you. That goes for all builds across all car makes and models...reliability.

Not to mention the maintenance cost of a high performance vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #185 (Edited)
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I dropped my car off at SZ yesterday morning. The motor is out of my car now, but the only thing stopping SZ from putting the motor back in is an Adapter Plate for the Red Sport Turbo Speed Sensors that I was suppose to receive from Pure Turbos. Without the Adapter Plate, the Red Sport Speed Sensors will hit the Compressor Wheel since the Compressor Wheel is larger compared to OEM. Apparently, the Adapter Plate was suppose to be in its own small baggy zip-tied either to the PS2 Turbos within the PS2’s large bag OR zip-tied to the zip-tie of the PS2’s large bag. I did not receive the Adapter Plate when it had gotten shipped to my house.

For Pure Turbos to make amends, they’ve next-day air shipped the Adapter Plate to SZ, which will equate to roughly 1 day behind schedule on my car. So far, that’s 2 strikes from Pure Turbos. Not a big deal though since they’ve promptly responded to me and quickly corrected both issues - Also, I’d like to make a note of this to potentially help out anyone else that decides to get the Red Sport PS2 Turbos.

For anyone that buys and then receives Red Sport PS2 Turbos, make sure you receive the Adapter Plate for the Red Sport Turbo Speed Sensors with your shipment too. The same thing might also be said for Red Sport PS1 Turbos since the compressor wheel is upgraded for that one too.

For reference, below is a photo of the original packaging of the PS2 Turbos that I received in the mail. No Adapter Plate.

93733
 

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What are the specs of our stock turbo size wheel vs the new Pure Turbos being installed? 6062 5757.........
 

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Discussion Starter #187 (Edited)
I dunno. I haven’t really cared to ask Pure either - I’m mainly focused on the results and Reliability of the PS2 Turbos. From what I’ve read, Pure seems to keep that info hush-hush. If it’s any consolation, when Seb and I were inspecting the PS2 Turbos, Seb noticed, right off the bat, that they’re much larger (relatively) compared to OEM - He seemed excited to get them put on my car lol.

Speaking of Reliability... My car’s at 77k miles and I’m hoping the PS2 Turbos will be more reliable than OEM turbos.

Common mechanical problems, potentially major, that plague the VR30:

1) Turbos - scratch that off the list for me.

2) Injectors - we’ll see if my factory injectors hold up.

3) Drive Belt - I’ve already shredded a belt back in 2018 at 29.5k miles, which was repaired and properly aligned under warranty. Suffice to say, I’ve been keeping a tab on the belt’s alignment since then - it hasn’t strayed or made any weird noises yet. I’ll probably replace it again myself soon as preventative maintenance.
 
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I'll pass this info to Farooq at Go Auto. It may prevent lost time.. Thanks. Looks like we are doing the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #189
SZ got the motor back into my car, put it on the dyno, and then one of the original, factory injectors failed - likely due to the increased flow rate of the AMS RA338 HPFP. FML 🤦‍♂️ I guess I fell victim to another one of the common VR30 mechanical problems from my Post #187 above (and #163) - my factory injectors got murdered lol.

Sucks, but not surprising. Mainly sucks because my car’s at the shop, and the only option I currently have for injectors is OEM - when, any day now, the AMS/Nostrum Injectors may get released. So, it looks like I’m gonna have to get all 6 original, factory injectors replaced with new OEM injectors - from what I’ve researched: if one fails, then the rest are likely to follow.

I’m not sure if I should also get AMS’s Flex Fuel Kit, installed at the same time as the injectors, to run an ethanol map.
 
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If you have the HPFP and the LPFP - go for the Flex Fuel Kit - what’s another $500 + install at this point anyway... 🤣
 
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Discussion Starter #191
93783
 

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Discussion Starter #192
For anyone that’s on the fence about installing an OCC for your VR30... I suggest you get an OCC ASAP if you’re planning to keep your car long-term.

When SZ was changing the injectors on my car, since the intake manifold was removed, my motor’s valves were exposed. There was a ton of carbon buildup on the back of the valves. SZ cleaned them off as much as they could. My car had 77.4k miles. I installed my OCC at 71.4k miles. Here’s a pic of the valves - this was the best pic that they could get as it was difficult for them to focus their camera on the valves.

94009
 

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Discussion Starter #194
I was able to witness my car on the dyno at SZ.

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Here are the results. I told Seb that I wanted to keep my car below 550 wtq to minimize damage to my stock block and tranny.

91 Octane: 470 whp, 455 wtq
I was hoping for 500 whp / 500 wtq as my daily kill map (see my next few posts where I’ll rectify this with ethanol). Oh well - nothing I can do about sh!tty gas in CA.
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100 Octane: 538 whp / 531 wtq
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Leaded 116 Octane (VP Q16 Race Fuel): 577 whp / 541 wtq
The graph shows 582 whp max power, but that’s not actually true since it spiked near redline and was an anomoly.
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91 Octane, 100 Octane, Leaded 116 Octane - all 3 shown on a single graph.
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Either meth injection or OCC. When doing OCC, make sure the L/R breather output are either routed to OCC or VTA.

I think this is one area where the 2.0L mercedes engine is better than vr30.
 

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Discussion Starter #196
How did they end up cleaning them? Carb cleaner or walnut blast?
They didn’t walnut blast it. They used throttle body and intake cleaner on them.
 

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Little surprised at how low the 91 graphs torque is, but once it's got the octane you can tell it wakes right up. Nice numbers. I'd love to get a pic of my intake after all the WMI use for comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter #198
So what does one do after one gets upgraded turbos and a dyno tune? Hit the drag strip of course!

I slapped on my Drag Pack, pumped some Sunoco 100 Octane, and then hit Sonoma Raceway for Wednesday Night Drags. I was consistently hitting 118 mph trap speeds, with a best ET of the day of 12.5 seconds, 75 degrees, 1500’ DA, and kept spinning off of the line due to the non-prepped surface. Definitely NOT what I was expecting.

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So I decided to try my luck again today... This time at Sacramento Raceway Test N Tune in 90 degrees with a DA of 2500, but with a well-prepped surface, on 100 Octane again. At Sonoma Raceway, I let my car shift gears automatically, but at Sac Raceway, i was manually shifting gears... and boy does it make a difference! Since I manually shifted, I was able to use my upgraded turbos’ powerband all the way up to redline, where it makes the most power. The best that I could get today was 11.64 at 121.57 mph, with a 2.00 second 60ft and 3.58 second 0-60 mph.

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Note: DA was definitely higher at 2500’ for the Dragy slips above because it was actually 90 degrees (not 84 degrees)
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I definitely need more seat time to try out different shift points and launch techniques (along with a better DA) if I want to improve my times.
 

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Discussion Starter #199
If you have the HPFP and the LPFP - go for the Flex Fuel Kit - what’s another $500 + install at this point anyway... 🤣
Since I was disappointed in my 91 Octane results... I ended up installing the AMS Flex Fuel Kit myself last night. I’m gonna have RaceBox remote tune my car for ethanol though. Probably E50 since I’ve got the lower flowing AMS RA338 HPFP and since I’ve got a fresh set of OEM Injectors. This’ll be my daily (and drag strip) kill map.

94021
 
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