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No Going Back Now... Z1 Turbos • Z1 LSD • CZP DS • Depo Racing 3” FDPs + AAM 3” CBE • Spool FX-180 + FlexFuel • & MORE!

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No Going Back Now... Z1 Turbos • Z1 LSD • CZP DS • Depo Racing 3” FDPs + AAM 3” CBE • Spool FX-180 + FlexFuel • & MORE!

I can’t wait for AMS’s Turbo Kit anymore. After kicking tires for a while and a sh!t load of research... I finally did it! I have placed multiple orders on a bunch of parts to hopefully end my quest for more power and to complete my build. My build will be on stock engine internals and stock tranny (depending on how my car performs on the street and at the drag strip, i might get Z1’s LSD in the future). I’m shooting for a safe (haha) 500 whp / 500 wtq give or take on 91 octane.

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PARTS ON ORDER:

•Pure Upgraded Turbos Stage 2
- Ordered directly from Pure Turbos’ website. They retain the OEM turbos’ housing but bore it out and have larger turbine + compressor wheels with upgraded seals. They’re built to order with their quoted lead time of 7 to 10 business days. Edit: Pure’s lead time turned out to actually be 20 business days.

Ordered from Concept Z Performance (CZP):
•CZP by PPE 2.5” Upper Downpipes
- Currently on back order, should receive them in about 3 weeks. Edit: I cancelled this order because there was no guarantee that I'd receive this on time - See 6/22/2020 Edits.
•AMS Low Pressure Fuel Pump (LPFP) - Should receive this in 2 days.
AMS RA338 High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) - Should receive this in 5 days.
•AMS Auxiliary Intercooler Tank - Should receive this in a little over a week. Edit: I cancelled this order because it was "drop shipped" from AMS and it's been almost 2 weeks - See 6/22/2020 Edits.

——————

CURRENT ENGINE MODS:

•Specialty-Z EcuTek E-Tune
- At 19 psi on Shell 91 Octane and have ran this for the past few months.
•Add-W1 Oil Catch Can V3.3 - Got it directly from Add-W1 and have had it on my car for the past few months.
•Fast Intentions Resonated Touring 2.5” Catback Exhaust - Got it directly from FI and have had it on my car since 2017.

Bought from CZP and has been on my car for the past few months:
•Infiniti (AMS) Intakes
•HKS Resonated 2.5” Lower Downpipes
•AMS Heat Exchanger
•CZP Turbosmart Vee Port Pro Blowoff Valves


——————

As you can tell, CZP is my number 1 vendor since they don’t charge tax and are really responsive when it comes to inquiring and ordering parts.

I’m going to install the AMS Auxiliary Intercooler Tank myself as soon as it arrives next week.

Specialty Z is going to install the Pure Turbos, Z1 Upper Downpipes, and AMS HPFP + LPFP, Z1 Motor Mounts, and then dyno tune my car.

EcuTek Tune with the following maps:
•Max psi on VP Racing Q16 - Good for 550 to 575 whp ish, track only
•Max psi on 100 Octane
•20 psi (or max safe psi) on 91 octane
- Good for 500 whp / 500 wtq ish, will be daily driven
•Hot Weather
•Pops & Bangs


If all goes well and if I receive all of my parts on time, I can hopefully get my car into Specialty Z’s shop in about 5 weeks (mid July).

If AMS/Nostrum releases their injectors by then (highly doubt it), I may just add them into the mix too.

I’ll be buying out my lease. My car is currently at 77k miles, so it doesn’t have the factory powertrain warranty any more - this is sorta why I’ve decided to full send it 🏎 🚀

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6/22/2020 EDITS:

Ordered from Z1 Motorsports

•Z1 2.5" Upper Downpipes
- They currently have this in stock, so I should receive them in a few days.
•Z1 Urethane Motor Mounts - They currently have this in stock, so I should receive them in a few days.

Ordered from an Infiniti Dealership's Ebay Store:
Infiniti (AMS) Auxiliary Intercooler Tank
- Should receive this in a few days.

——————

7/25/2020 EDITS:
MODS FOR COMPLETED BUILD #1

2017 Q50 Red Sport RWD

Engine
•Specialty-Z EcuTek
Dyno Tune
•Pure Stage 2 Turbos
•Z1 Urethane Motor Mounts
•Z1 2.5" UDPs
•HKS Res. 2.5” LDPs
•Fast Intentions Res. Touring 2.5” CBE
•AMS Intakes
•AMS LPFP
•AMS RA338 HPFP
•AMS Heat Exchanger
•AMS Aux. Intercooler Tank
•Add-W1 OCC V3.3
•CZP TurboSmart Vee Port Pro BOVs

Wheels/Suspension
Street: MRR FS01 Front 20x8.5 +30 & Rear 20x10 +40 w/ Michelin PS A/S 3+ 255/35 & 285/30
Drag Pack: Front 18x4 +0 Enkei 370Z Spare Wheel w/ 185/50 M&H RaceMaster DRs & Rear 18x9.5 +38 Enkei RPF1 w/ 285/40 Nitto NT05R DRs
•RS-R Down Sus Lowering Springs
•SPC Rear Adjustable Toe Links & Camber Arms
•Z1 Aluminum Rear Subframe Bushing Collars

CLICK FOR DYNO RESULTS OF THIS COMPLETED BUILD ON 91 OCTANE, 100 OCTANE, AND 116 OCTANE

——————

7/26/2020 EDITS

I’ve decided to run Flex Fuel Ethanol on my car with the AMS Flex Fuel Kit. I’ve also enlisted RaceBox to remote tune my car for Flex Fuel Ethanol.

——————

8/1/2020 EDITS:

With this new found power on Flex Fuel Ethanol, my car has started to go sideways a few times at WOT, even in 3rd gear at 60 mph. And, I’ve been spinning and not winning off of the line at the drag strip lol.

So, I’ve placed an order on Z1’s LSD. Since I’ll be installing the LSD myself and will be working in that area, I also placed an order on CZP’s RWD Aluminum Driveshaft and Z1’s RWD Urethane Transmission Mount made for 370Z’s / G37’s. Currently there aren’t any official tranny mounts made for RWD Q50’s / Q60’s. Although the Z1 Tranny Mount isn’t specifically made for the Q50, there have been a few people that have used 370Z / G37 tranny mounts on their Q50’s / Q60’s. I’ll test this out on my car.

——————

9/11/2020 EDITS

MODS FOR COMPLETED BUILD #2

2017 Q50 Red Sport RWD
at 79k+ miles

Powertrain/Drivetrain
•RaceBox
EcuTek Remote Tune on E60***
•Pure Stage 2 Turbos
CZP TurboSmart Vee Port Pro BOVs
CZP 4” Aluminum Driveshaft***
Z1 LSD***
Z1 Urethane Tranny Mount***
•Z1 Urethane Motor Mounts
•Z1 2.5" UDPs
•HKS Res. 2.5” LDPs
•Fast Intentions Res. Touring 2.5” CBE
•AMS Intakes
•AMS LPFP
•AMS RA338 HPFP
AMS Flex Fuel Kit***
•AMS Heat Exchanger
•AMS Aux. Intercooler Tank
•DeatschWerks DWFF70 10 Micron Fuel Filter***
•Add-W1 OCC V3.3
•Factory Stock Motor
•Factory Stock Tranny
•OEM Injectors

Wheels/Suspension
Street: Michelin PS A/S 3+ 255/35 & 285/30 on MRR FS01 Front 20x8.5 +30mm & Rear 20x10 +40mm
Drag Pack:
Front: 185/50 M&H RaceMaster DRs on 18x4 +0mm Enkei 370Z Spare Wheels
Rears 1: 285/40 Nitto NT05R DRs on 18x9.5 +38mm Enkei RPF1
Rears 2: 325/35 Mickey Thompson ET Street R DRs on 18x11 +56mm ForgeStar D5 w/ Z1 5mm Spacers***
•Z1 Aluminum Rear Subframe Bushing Collars
•RS-R Down Sus Lowering Springs
•SPC Rear Toe & Camber Arms

Other
Escort Max 360
Dragy
Braille B129 Lightweight (9.5 lb) Car Battery***

CLICK FOR DYNO RESULTS OF THIS COMPLETED BUILD ON E60 (minus the CZP DS & Z1 LSD)

***Indicates New/Different mods for this Completed Build #2, compared to #1

——————

9/29/2020 EDITS

Since my car is currently at 79.5k miles with the factory motor and factory tranny, I’ve decided to bulletproof my car by building the motor and maybe building the tranny. Additionally, I’ve fallen down the slippery slope of the rabbit hole known as, “MO POWA BABEH!”


I’ve placed orders on the following parts to upgrade my current setup. I’m gonna sell my old parts to recoup some of what I’ve spent.

•3” AAM Resonated FDPs & 3” AAM Resonated CBE. AAM does not keep stock of their FDPs and CBEs for the VR30; they’re made-to-order with a 3-4 week lead time. And, AAM Competition doesn’t list their 3” CBE with resonators. So, since they have to fab their CBEs when customers put in an order anyways, I called them to request that they put in resonators at the mid-pipe section of their CBE; they fulfilled my custom request/order. To get the most out of my PS2 Turbos, opening up the exhaust with a full 3” turbo-back gives MO POWA BABEH!

•DeatschWerks 19S-00-1700-6 Injectors, Spool FX-180 HPFP, OEM Left-Side Fuel Rail 17522-5CA0A, OEM Right-Side Fuel Rail 17521-5CA0A. I’m gonna test out this new, relatively inexpensive (compared to AMS) injector option on full ethanol. More fuel for MO POWA BABEH!

I’m still working out the details of building my motor and maybe building my tranny. If I build the tranny, I’m going to use my builder’s recommended tranny builder (NOT Level 10). This, of course, will enable me to reliably run MO POWA BABEH!

——————

3/5/2021 EDITS:
MODS FOR COMPLETED BUILD #3 (WAS NEVER ACTUALLY COMPLETED)

2017 Q50 Red Sport RWD

Powertrain/Drivetrain
•RaceBox
EcuTek Remote/Dyno Tune on Full Ethanol***
•Pure Stage 2 Turbos
Built Motor***
~Manley Rods***
~Manley Pistons***
~ARP L19 Head Studs***
Pure Drivetrain Solutions Built 7AT Tranny w/ PDS Triple Billet Disc Torque Converter***
•Killer Chiller
w/ Bypass+Drag Valves***
CZP TurboSmart Vee Port Pro BOVs
CZP 4” Aluminum Driveshaft
Z1 LSD
Z1 Urethane Tranny Mount
•Z1 Urethane Motor Mounts
•AAM 3” Resonated FDPs***
•AAM 3” Resonated CBE***
•AMS Intakes
•AMS Heat Exchanger
•AMS Aux. Intercooler Tank
AMS Flex Fuel Kit
•AMS LPFP
•Spool FX-180 HPFP***
DeatschWerks 19S-00-1700-6 Injectors***
•DeatschWerks DWFF70 10 Micron Fuel Filter
•Add-W1 OCC V3.3

Wheels/Suspension
Street: Michelin PS A/S 3+ 255/35 & 285/30 on MRR FS01 Front 20x8.5 +30mm & Rear 20x10 +40mm
Drag Pack:
Front: 185/50 M&H RaceMaster DRs on 18x4 +0mm Enkei 370Z Spare Wheels
Rears 1: 285/40 Nitto NT05R DRs on 18x9.5 +38mm Enkei RPF1
Rears 2: 325/35 Mickey Thompson ET Street R DRs on 18x11 +56mm ForgeStar D5 w/ Z1 5mm Spacers
•Z1 Aluminum Rear Subframe Bushing Collars
•RS-R Down Sus Lowering Springs
•SPC Rear Toe & Camber Arms

Other
Escort Max 360
Dragy
Braille B129 Lightweight (9.5 lb) Car Battery

***Indicates New/Different mods for this Completed Build #3, compared to #2

—————————

3/31/2023 EDITS:

Welp… Kris Kunetka / K2 RaceKraft had my car for 2 years with nothing to show for it besides excuses and issues with my engine. WARNING TO ANYONE THAT’S THINKING ABOUT DOING BUSINESS WITH KRIS KUNETKA / K2 RACEKRAFT - DON’T!!! If you get Kris to work on your VR30, then you may end up with an improperly machined head and a major oil leak that’ll drain your oil at 1 quart for every 150 miles driven.

Link to the story here:

MODS FOR COMPLETED BUILD #4(WAS NEVER ACTUALLY COMPLETED)
2017 Q50 Red Sport RWD

Powertrain/Drivetrain
•RaceBox
EcuTek Remote/Dyno Tune on Full Ethanol
•Pure Stage 2 Turbos
Built Motor
~Manley Rods
~Manley Pistons
~OEM Head Bolts***
OEM Factory Red Sport Tranny***
•No Killer Chiller***
CZP TurboSmart Vee Port Pro BOVs
CZP 4” Aluminum Driveshaft
Z1 LSD
Z1 Urethane Tranny Mount
•Z1 Urethane Motor Mounts
•AAM 3” Resonated FDPs
•AAM 3” Resonated CBE
•AMS Intakes
•AMS Heat Exchanger
•AMS Aux. Intercooler Tank
AMS Flex Fuel Kit, Version 1
•AMS LPFP
•Spool FX-180 HPFP
DeatschWerks 19S-00-1700-6 Injectors
•DeatschWerks DWFF70 10 Micron Fuel Filter
•Add-W1 OCC V3.3

Wheels/Suspension
Street: Michelin PS A/S 3+ 255/35 & 285/30 on MRR FS01 Front 20x8.5 +30mm & Rear 20x10 +40mm
Drag Pack:
Front: 185/50 M&H RaceMaster DRs on 18x4 +0mm Enkei 370Z Spare Wheels
Rears 1: 285/40 Nitto NT05R DRs on 18x9.5 +38mm Enkei RPF1
Rears 2: 325/35 Mickey Thompson ET Street R DRs on 18x11 +56mm ForgeStar D5 w/ Z1 5mm Spacers
•Z1 Aluminum Rear Subframe Bushing Collars
•RS-R Down Sus Lowering Springs
•SPC Rear Toe & Camber Arms

Other
Escort Max 360
Dragy
Braille B129 Lightweight (9.5 lb) Car Battery

***Indicates New/Different mods for this Completed Build #4, compared to #3

—————————

6/2/2023 EDITS:

Welp… Looks like Kris Kunetka’s / K2 RaceKraft’s built motor that he built for me is a dud with a significant amount of metal particles in the lower oil pan.

Link to the story here:

MODS FOR COMPLETED BUILD #5
2017 Q50 Red Sport RWD

Powertrain/Drivetrain
•RaceBox
EcuTek Remote Tune on Full Ethanol
•Z1 VRX70 Turbos***
OEM Motor***
OEM Factory Red Sport Tranny
CZP TurboSmart Vee Port Pro BOVs
CZP 4” Aluminum Driveshaft
Z1 LSD
Z1 Urethane Tranny Mount
•Z1 Urethane Motor Mounts
•Depo Racing 3” 100 Cell Catted FDPs***
•AAM 3” Resonated CBE
•AMS Intakes
•AMS Heat Exchanger
•AMS Aux. Intercooler Tank
AMS Flex Fuel Kit, Version 1
•AMS LPFP
•Spool FX-180 HPFP
DeatschWerks 19S-00-1700-6 Injectors
•DeatschWerks DWFF70 10 Micron Fuel Filter
•Add-W1 OCC V3.3

Wheels/Suspension
Street: Michelin PS A/S 3+ 255/35 & 285/30 on MRR FS01 Front 20x8.5 +30mm & Rear 20x10 +40mm
•Z1 Aluminum Rear Subframe Bushing Collars
•RS-R Down Sus Lowering Springs
•SPC Rear Toe & Camber Arms

***Indicates New/Different mods for this Completed Build #5, compared to #4
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Update…

I still have not heard from Kris Kunetka / K2 RaceKraft.

On 4/26/2023, Overkill Performance removed the Lower Oil Pan from my vehicle, and this is what it looked like:

PHOTOS:
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Helmet

Hood Automotive lighting Dishware Liquid Serveware

Hood Automotive lighting Fluid Bumper Automotive exterior

Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Fluid

Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design


VIDEO:

———————————————————

My 2 Options are:

OPTION 1:
Re-use the Existing Long Block in my vehicle. This option can only happen after Overkill has removed and disassembled the Existing Long Block from my vehicle AND only if their engine builder has determined that the Existing Long Block can be salvaged and re-used (no significant damage to the internals of the Existing Long Block such as the Connecting Rod Bearings, Piston Rings, etc.).

OPTION 2:
If Overkill’s engine builder determines that the Existing Long Block cannot be salvaged (OPTION 1 ABOVE), then Overkill will source a Good Condition Used VR30 (with a 3,000 mile warranty) from a dismantler in order to install the Good Condition Used VR30 into my vehicle.


Overkill Performance is currently working out the logistics and scheduling of the 2 Options above.
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Update…

I still have not heard from Kris Kunetka / K2 RaceKraft.

My 2 Options are:

OPTION 1:
Re-use the Existing Long Block in my vehicle. This option can only happen after Overkill has removed and disassembled the Existing Long Block from my vehicle AND only if their engine builder has determined that the Existing Long Block can be salvaged and re-used (no significant damage to the internals of the Existing Long Block such as the Connecting Rod Bearings, Piston Rings, etc.).

OPTION 2:
If Overkill’s engine builder determines that the Existing Long Block cannot be salvaged (OPTION 1 ABOVE), then Overkill will source a Good Condition Used VR30 (with a 3,000 mile warranty) from a dismantler in order to install the Good Condition Used VR30 into my vehicle.


Overkill Performance is currently working out the logistics and scheduling of the 2 Options above.
Option one shouldn't be an option unless you have the money to completely rebuild the engine. If the bores are ok and if it showed good compression before the pan was dropped, this might be an ok option. i definitely see bearing material there. you might be ok as-is or maybe turning the crank and using diff bearings. if theres any bore damage at all, i dont see the point in going this route.

option two will be the quickest and likely most reliable option. youll have to balance your goals, bank account, and expectations to figureout if this is viable.
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Is it my eyes playing tricks on me or does it looks like there's some coolant mixed in there?

F! Bro, so sorry to see this. I don't know how you can be a "master tech" like Kunetka claims he was and eff up a build like this. I don't wish bad on anyone, but he's probably going to have a healthy dose of karma coming his way. There's a motto like I like to live by, "If I were to screw someone over, I'm just doing it to myself, because it will come back on me, one way or the other." Lot of wisdom in treat others as you wish to be treated.

At this point, I would try to get an engine out of wrecked late model Q with low mileage. Might be able to have a near new fresh starting point there.

Just going to put this out there, you WILL have some good coming your way, one way or the other.
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not the first tume a master tech has effed up.

my wrx build was a huge and expensive lesson.

I truly feel for you. been there done that. what a waste.
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I just read through this entire thread. I'm sorry that this happened to you.
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That is just brutal. Sorry to hear that.
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Update…

I still have not heard from Kris Kunetka / K2 RaceKraft.
Due to my existing Long Block (that was built by K2 RaceKraft) being defective and not as advertised per Kris and I’s agreement, I requested a full refund from Kris about a month ago (I did so as soon as I witnessed the metal particles in the lower oil pan from Kris’s built Existing Long Block that was in my vehicle, while I was at Overkill Performance), but, as usual, no response from him at all yet.

My 2 Options are:

OPTION 1:
Re-use the Existing Long Block in my vehicle. This option can only happen after Overkill has removed and disassembled the Existing Long Block from my vehicle AND only if their engine builder has determined that the Existing Long Block can be salvaged and re-used (no significant damage to the internals of the Existing Long Block such as the Connecting Rod Bearings, Piston Rings, etc.).

OPTION 2:
If Overkill’s engine builder determines that the Existing Long Block cannot be salvaged (OPTION 1 ABOVE), then Overkill will source a Good Condition Used VR30 (with a 3,000 mile warranty) from a dismantler in order to install the Good Condition Used VR30 into my vehicle.

Overkill Performance is currently working out the logistics and scheduling of the 2 Options above.
Overkill Performance’s engine builder isn’t familiar with the VR30, so Option 1 will not be an option for me. I am going with Option 2.
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I’m gonna run a few tests on my Existing Long Block…

I’m guessing and hoping those metal particles at the bottom of the lower oil pan are just break-in material since my Existing Long Block was recently rebuilt by Kris.

Soon, I’m gonna have Overkill Performance re-install the lower oil pan and put fresh oil in, so then I could pick up my car from them to run some tests on it. I’m gonna drive my car around for a hundred miles, then drain the oil, and then remove the lower oil pan and oil filter to inspect them for metal particles.

If there aren’t a significant amount of metal particles at the bottom of the lower oil pan or in the oil filter, then great! That may be a good sign. So then I’ll reinstall the lower oil pan (with a new gasket) and put some fresh oil in with a new oil filter, run the motor for a hundred miles, then do a cylinder compression test. And if the numbers come out alright, I’ll do the same oil test (drive my car around for a hundred miles, then drain the oil, and then remove the lower oil pan and oil filter to inspect them for metal particles).

If the oil at the bottom of the lower oil pan and oil filter comes out alright after that 2nd round of running oil through the motor, I’ll likely have Overkill Performance fix ONLY the oil leak issue (upper oil pan, front timing cover, etc.) so then I could salvage the motor that Kris built for me.

BUT, if there are a significant amount of metal particles still in the oil in the lower oil pan and oil filter, I’ll likely have Overkill Performance install a Used Good Condition VR30 into my car.

Let me know what your guys’ thoughts on this are. Thanks.
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I like the 100 mile test, but I would add a leak down test instead of just a compression test. They give you a better indication into the health of the motor.
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Happy Memorial Day! I’m writing this post in remembrance of my VR30 Long Block that Kris Kunetka (K2 RaceKraft) built for me.

On Friday 5/26/2023, I picked up my car from Overkill Performance to do some testing on my Existing VR30 Long Block [that Kris Kuentka (K2 RaceKraft) built for me]. Before I picked up my car from Overkill Performance, I had them clean the lower oil pan [due to the significant amount of metal particles that were in my Existing VR30 Long Block that Kris Kunetka (K2 RaceKraft) caused while he was building that motor for me], and then had them put in 6 quarts of 5w-30 Amsoil. I drove for 92 Miles in light freeway conditions at speeds varying between 50 to 80 mph and didn’t ever go WOT. Then when I was relatively close to my house, I did a WOT 3rd gear 2.5k RPMs to 4th gear pull to see if my car could handle it. It couldn’t. My car was somewhat stuttering during the pull. After the pull, a sh!t load of smoke started coming out of the exhaust/mufflers. I could hear and feel the vibrations of the knocking coming from my engine. The CEL started flashing on my gauge cluster.



So I putt putted my car back home. The CEL was a DTC of P0306 (Cylinder 6 Misfire).

IMG_4030.jpeg


I drained the oil from my Existing VR30 Long Block [that Kris Kunetka (K2 RaceKraft) built for me], and this is what it looked like…

Metal Particles Draining from VR30DDTT Built by Kris Kunetka (K2 RaceKraft)

I removed the Lower Oil Pan from my Existing VR30 Long Block, and this is what it looked like:

IMG_4064.jpeg


IMG_4069.jpeg



Yup, this is the fine work of Kris Kunetka’s (K2 RaceKraft’s) long block building service that he provided for me.

Looks like Overkill Performance is going to have to install a Used VR30 Long Block into my car.
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3
Dang 🙁
That sucks :( what was the idle oil pressure?
That sucks :( what was the idle oil pressure?
At idle, the oil pressure fluctuated between 22 to 24 psi.
Dang bro, so sorry to hear this. The amount of shavings in there the first time around was disheartening, but I was hoping for the best. Once you get the new long block, is there any chance you'd have Overkill rebuild your existing block assuming that's possible?

I think at minimum it sounds like new bearings and and polishing the crank. Hopefully no rods are bent and no valves kissed the pistons.
@twin_snails - Nah. Probably gonna scrap my existing long block.
@twin_snails - Nah. Probably gonna scrap my existing long block.
Makes sense. Maybe the dude on YT will buy it? Could be interesting to see a documented teardown of your long block if nothing else for documentation purposes if there's anything further you can do in the legal realm against kenetka.
Looks like Overkill Performance is going to have to install a Used VR30 Long Block into my car.
Well, instead of used, why not go new?

2017-19 INFINITI Q50 Q60 DDTT 3.0T ENGINE BRAND NEW GENUINE OEM | eBay

That's a great price for a new VR30, and you could even "Make an Offer", if you so choose...
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Well, instead of used, why not go new?

2017-19 INFINITI Q50 Q60 DDTT 3.0T ENGINE BRAND NEW GENUINE OEM | eBay

That's a great price for a new VR30, and you could even "Make an Offer", if you so choose...
I would be tempted to go that route. That's a great price for a new engine, all else considered.
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Well, instead of used, why not go new?

2017-19 INFINITI Q50 Q60 DDTT 3.0T ENGINE BRAND NEW GENUINE OEM | eBay

That's a great price for a new VR30, and you could even "Make an Offer", if you so choose...
That's half the price of a bare and short VR30 engine. It is the RWD variant however.

I like how the seller indicates it's an 8-cylinder engine...
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