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The only thing in the reviews I read was the bracket was somewhat flimsy but how much load does a catch can put on any bracket? Just gives you an indication of how much padding Mishimoto puts on their product pricing.
 

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The only thing in the reviews I read was the bracket was somewhat flimsy but how much load does a catch can put on any bracket? Just gives you an indication of how much padding Mishimoto puts on their product pricing.
Maybe their suppliers are charging them more. The bracket on mine seems sturdy enough but those folks have the 3-port so it's a bit heavier. I slightly modified mine and also used compression fittings. I haven't installed it yet.

 

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The only thing in the reviews I read was the bracket was somewhat flimsy but how much load does a catch can put on any bracket? Just gives you an indication of how much padding Mishimoto puts on their product pricing.
I would think the stiffness of the bracket comes into play with how much the catch can will wiggle or vibrate as the car is driven. I could see that a more flexible piece could fail from vibration fatigue rather than the actual static load it is supporting.
 

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I would think the stiffness of the bracket comes into play with how much the catch can will wiggle or vibrate as the car is driven. I could see that a more flexible piece could fail from vibration fatigue rather than the actual static load it is supporting.
The whole car vibrates to some extent while driven. The OCC's mass isn't enough to cause vibration fatigue in my engineering opinion...not in the lifetime of the car anyway.
 

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The bracket in this video I would not give a year of bumpy driving. It's long and the single bolt point being so close to the right angle bend is a lousy design. Metal fatigue at the lower bend is my guess at the failure point.

It however allows you to use a STB. The Mishimoto braket setup is in the way of the 2 I have tried. It's to high and right under where the bar goes.

Video:https://youtu.be/W2m9Skc0qok
 

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I'd be willing to bet that the bracket will hold up longer than you own the car.
 

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I slightly modified mine and also used compression fittings. I haven't installed it yet.
I like this idea very much. It only took about 5000mi for the fittings on my Mishimoto to start showing some grime on the outside with the supplied barbed fittings and band clamps. Otherwise I love everything about the product, but having to wipe it down regularly because it's the only surface in a brand new engine bay that I can't eat off of is a little annoying.
 

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The whole car vibrates to some extent while driven. The OCC's mass isn't enough to cause vibration fatigue in my engineering opinion...not in the lifetime of the car anyway.
So true! But the three screws on on top of the mishimoto catchcan are very important; last oil change emptied the catchcan rested the three screws on top of the brake fluid box cover one of the screws fell down into the abyss lol. I figure two should be fine to my next oil change I'll get another screw by then.... Well about 1000 miles later I'm getting a funny buzzing noise/vibration during cold startup so I check next startup its the catchcan vibrating in the bracket other two screws backed out but still there.
 

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I like this idea very much. It only took about 5000mi for the fittings on my Mishimoto to start showing some grime on the outside with the supplied barbed fittings and band clamps. Otherwise I love everything about the product, but having to wipe it down regularly because it's the only surface in a brand new engine bay that I can't eat off of is a little annoying.

Oh man I hate seeing oil grime as well.

For sealing the threads, the Permatex high temp thread sealant works well.
 

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I got 3 extra screws from Mishimoto. In anticipation of loosing a screw. You don't need to remove them, just back them out enough to lower their can enough to remove from the brkt. Works like a charm. I torque them very tight when replacing it after servicing it.
 

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So do I, no issues that way yet.

adix: I'm not certain if it's the threads that are... misting, or the barbed fittings and band clamps. I assumed it wasn't the threads, but I suppose I wouldn't know.
 

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So what is the consensus on which OCC to get? There is one on Mishimoto's website but its $230, yet the Amazon one in this thread is $119. What I am paying over $100 more for?
 

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adix: I'm not certain if it's the threads that are... misting, or the barbed fittings and band clamps. I assumed it wasn't the threads, but I suppose I wouldn't know.
I found mine to be escaping from the o-ring, its rubber hardens over time. Bought a bag of 10 o-rings from amazon for $7.

So what is the consensus on which OCC to get? There is one on Mishimoto's website but its $230, yet the Amazon one in this thread is $119. What I am paying over $100 more for?
Generic ones (like the one I use) costs < $50 but you'd have to figure out the mounting yourself. Or you can get the more-expensive-but-easy-to-install Mishimoto. They both work and collect oil though. So I guess it depends on one's patience and budget thresholds.
 

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I emptied my Mishimoto can right before I got dyno tuned. I also changed my oil which was to the rating SN plus to start fresh. Next day got tuned and then drove a day and did 6-7 drag starts 2nd gear 3-4 gear rolling starts plus the four dyno pulls to load and adjust Ecutech tune. Next night I thought why not check and see what the contents of the oil catch can could be since I increased the boost. Made a video clip. Here's what the Mishimoto cc captured in only 10-11 pulls over a short 3 days.
 

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I emptied my Mishimoto can right before I got dyno tuned. I also changed my oil which was to the rating SN plus to start fresh. Next day got tuned and then drove a day and did 6-7 drag starts 2nd gear 3-4 gear rolling starts plus the four dyno pulls to load and adjust Ecutech tune. Next night I thought why not check and see what the contents of the oil catch can could be since I increased the boost. Made a video clip. Here's what the Mishimoto cc captured in only 10-11 pulls over a short 3 days.
Interesting. Thanks for the video! Just think how much oil passed through the blow-by vents during the high load of the pulls if you got that much oil in the OCC.
 

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Interesting. Thanks for the video! Just think how much oil passed through the blow-by vents during the high load of the pulls if you got that much oil in the OCC.
My car was bought new 4 months ago and not raced or pushed till after 3,000 miles. Driven mainly stop and go around town and then never even taken over 85 mph and no long highway trips at any sustained speeds. I'm fortunate that I had experience with Ford's 2013-14 ST 4 cylinder turbo car and been alerted to the importance of OCC's and force induction/direct injection engines. bach then I had no clue about catch cans. With just 12-13K on that ST, I took the manifold off while upgrading the turbo charger's hot and cold side piping and in the process, I was horrified when I shinned a light down into the intake valve chambers. I spent days hand cleaning them and getting them back almost as clean as new. A major, time consuming and dirty job. After that experience is when I bought my first Damond Motorsports OCC made for that car. Intake valves, the way they seat and how well /smoothly air flows through that area is a huge deal. I think my car before tune with just AMS intakes at 315whp and 333 torque speaks that it was healthy pre tune and hopefully still healthy after tune at 434 whp and 513 tq.
 
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