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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Power Lift trunk install on Q50, from Power Tailgate Opener For Infiniti Q50

DISCOUNT CODE "q50hansshow" for 15% No expiry was mentioned

My contact supplier Cici,
what's app +86-15622716775
email [email protected]

Please note I DID NOT install the same as many other may have or by designers intended method. I maximized for easy and longevity of my install. Please read carefully as to what I did different so you aren't surprised if you get this kit


When testing, I recommend folding down your rear seats. If you don't have rear seats, I recommend going into your trunk. IF stuck use the inside pull handle and push trunk upwards. If not, you try trunk pull handle using your pass through, but someone has to lift open the trunk ( not hard or heavy to do so) while you're pulling on the inside trunk handle.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
90736
In China, A Q50L is a stretched longer version of the regular Q50. the Q50L has more space in the rear passenger area
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
90846


There is a gap between the trunk lock and trunk side where you can easily drill a hole ( drill bit included in kit) and mount in the close button.

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
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I recommend replace the gas struts after fully wiring out the trunk lid and the foot sensor to trunk main connector.
Replace one strut at a time, putting the bottom side first. Remove the weather strip if you need more room.

Kick/ foot Sensor ( if applicable obviously)

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Trunk wiring-----


i have modified the included kit harness so only a few wires entered the trunk, that part of the harness is wrapped in grey , and can be followed by the drawn red line. The switch button and trunk lock wires are 6 wires total. (BLUE) You'll need min 5 feet measured from the connector. (GREEN) You should remove the harness tape covering over the end where the wires will be in the harness sock and pull the lines through into the chassis

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It's easiest to disconnect the trunk harness from the chassis and pull the harness sock out including connector. When straightened, it's easy to pull the wires through. Make sure that all the wires go through the hole where the sock was seated. Those wires can now be soldered together again within the trunk.

Since the connector is out and if you wish to REDUCE NUMBER OF PULLED WIRES you can wire 3 to the end of the harness /chassis connector and
only pull 3 wires for the lift trunk switch.

The blue wire from the lift trunk kit can be connected directly to pin 1,YELLOW wire. Then Cut the GREEN wire from pin 6, leave enough length so you can attach the YELLOW wire from the lift trunk kit to the connector side. The other end of the GREEN wire should be connected to the WHITE/RED STRIPED wire. For the foot switch, attach GREEN wire from kit to pin 5, PINK line.

90855
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
90741
Main unit, located in the trunk driver side, connections from left to right on top ,are for left motor/ left position switches, then right motor/ right position switch, latching trunk and position switch, main harness for trunk speaker, bottom is power/ground
 

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Discussion Starter #8
90743
I installed the struts backwards so that the motor wires are facing downward to avoid putting holes in the trunk and utilize factory holes and reduce stress on motor harness for longevity
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
View attachment 90748 There is a small factory hole covered by tape when you remove the tail lights (2 x6mm shown). I ran my wiring through hole and sealed both ends with poly urethane to water seal.

I had to cut the motor wiring harness and resolder them on the inside since the connectors were too large to enter factory hole. If you can't solder there are butt connectors( shown).
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But you will need wire strippers 22AWG for most wires, or willing to use a knife to cut off the wire covering, put both ends in and clamp together.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
included in the kit is the latch motor, it replaces the factory latch bolted by 2x6mm bolts and i ran the cable through the opening on the left side frame, sorry I didn't take this pic.I had to put in the motor in the Styrofoam tray, slotted it so the cable would be level
90752
 

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Discussion Starter #13
90753
The only connection needed is power and that was through the framework that leads to this picture where the seat rear seat is removed and runs near the seatbelt. drag the rest to the fuse box
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
90754
I used this reference shot as to which connection is to be made for power - RED line. The white line is likely where I would install the kick open switch power line. I DO NOT RECOMMEND PLUGGING IN ANY WIRE LIKE HOW THE WHITE LINE WAS INSTALLED
 

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Discussion Starter #15
PLEASE NOTE, CURRENTLY THE STRUTS ARE ABOUT 12mm Shorter than OEM, so it also means that the trunk is lower and you could bump your head, currently waiting on finding longer struts from manufacturer. OEM =290mm, current 278mm measured from center to center when fully extended
 

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Discussion Starter #17
90755
The original harness, there's a connector marked "light", it has no purpose, so I cut it out and taped the ends. The harness in hand is for the kick sensor, red for battery, black for ground, green for the trunk button. All these can be attached to the other wires by the control box. The white white goes to the the fuse box pic above
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Oh FYI, when installed first time, hold the trunk button until beep, that height is what the trunk will now open to. Now the trunk will work on/off. You can adjust the trunk by hand to your desired height and memorize it by pushing and holding trunk button
 
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