[ptatohed]

I haven't seen a definitive way stated yet. Could the pros chime in and list the best way to run 0-60 mph, 1/8 mi, and 1/4 mi please? Traction Control on/off? Auto shift/manual shift? If manual, shift at what RPM? Power brake or not? If so, launch at what RPM? Etc., etc. Thanks!

 

[JohnInNH]

I have used 2000 RPM brake boost, TC OFF (I have a Z1 LSD & AWD), auto shift. Mode did not make much difference since you are floored, but suggest Sport+. I did an Eco mode run just to see, and it was not much different.

Note: For best MPG I use "personal" mode since it's the only way to shut off ATC. Mine Personal mode is set up sport suspension, std steering, std transmission, ATC OFF.

I use it 90% of the time. Also TC OFF 90% of the time. I feel FEB is dangerous and also shut it off on secondary roads (2 way roads) where I pass often, BUT leave it on on limited acess roads (highway) as it can save your ass when traffic goes from 75 MPH to 40 MPH with no warning.

FEB has helped me 2x, and has almost caused an accedent 2-3 times MORE. It also activates on exit ramps a lot, which I find annoying... let alone anyone behind me!

FEB not only puts the brakes on it kills the power via the ECU. Not the best when passing! ?

 

[Pillboy]

Proper way to run 0-60, 1/8, 1/4?

Rental car.

 

[Avedis53]

Proper way to run 0-60, 1/8, 1/4?

Rental car.

I like the way you roll!

 

[Avedis53]

FEB not only puts the brakes on it kills the power via the ECU. Not the best when passing! ?

Kills power? How so? Are you referring to the accelerator control system pedal actuator which pushes the pedal up when FEB firsts detects a potential collision? That's controlled by the ADAS control unit. I can't find any references about the ECU reducing power itself.

 

[mapleDom]

FEB not only puts the brakes on it kills the power via the ECU. Not the best when passing! ?

Kills power? How so? Are you referring to the accelerator control system pedal actuator which pushes the pedal up when FEB firsts detects a potential collision? That's controlled by the ADAS control unit. I can't find any references about the ECU reducing power itself.

Hey guys so I noticed when I take the traction control off, it also disabled the FEB, when I had the SS that was not the case because I didn't have the 360 on it, with my RS being fully loaded, I have noticed it, John was saying that he turned his off.

 

[JohnInNH]

The FEB light goes on when you shut TC off... BUT FEB is still ON. You have to disable it in the menu to really disable FEB. Try it. No clue why both dash lights go on with just the TC button being pushed.

I have spent a lot of time messing with this.

Re the ECU cutting power. Maybe the ECU doesn't cut the power the gas peddle just stops working as giving it gas seems to do nothing. Same with the torque brake vectoring... if I floor it with TC on, with sand it feels like the car just "quits" for a bit, not a smooth brake application on the wheel while still trying to accelerate. Unlike they claim. Maybe they just disable the peddle signal, not disabling via the ECU. The effect is the same to me.

The only way I can get the power to continue delivering power on iffy traction conditions is to disable TC.

Now to complicate things it appears, from my testing, the modes control the intensity of the brake torque vectoring.

In std mode its quite agressive and sport+ much less so.
Maybe @Avedis53 can elaborate on the above.

I spent quite a lot of time on a hill with 1" of snow playing with different combinations of modes and TC on and off, in each mode.

Try it. You may find it interesting. TC off in Sport+ is a blast. You can easily loose control, you can really put power down to all the wheels and spin them.. granted this can lead to the car not staying the road. Camber slip.

I don't want my brakes being applied or my power being interrupted (ECU or peddel signal) when I don't want it doing that. I want to control the power delivery with my foot.

HOWEVER on bad, slippery, iffy off camber, ice n snow roads, I may choose to leave the nanny tec on so I stay on the road.

All this is difficult to write clearly.

 

[mapleDom]

Thanks John, I didn't get back to the conversation last night, I'm hearing some thumping noise in the driver front wheel, I'm hoping that the 10" wheels are not the problem, I will have more time to look at it tomorrow.

 

[ptatohed]

I have used 2000 RPM brake boost, TC OFF (I have a Z1 LSD & AWD), auto shift. Mode did not make much difference since you are floored, but suggest Sport+. I did an Eco mode run just to see, and it was not much different.

Note: For best MPG I use "personal" mode since it's the only way to shut off ATC. Mine Personal mode is set up sport suspension, std steering, std transmission, ATC OFF.

I use it 90% of the time. Also TC OFF 90% of the time. I feel FEB is dangerous and also shut it off on secondary roads (2 way roads) where I pass often, BUT leave it on on limited acess roads (highway) as it can save your ass when traffic goes from 75 MPH to 40 MPH with no warning.

FEB has helped me 2x, and has almost caused an accedent 2-3 times MORE. It also activates on exit ramps a lot, which I find annoying... let alone anyone behind me!

FEB not only puts the brakes on it kills the power via the ECU. Not the best when passing! ?

Thanks JINH. So, for RWD, what would you say? TC on/off?

 

[JohnInNH]

RWD .. If you have a LSD.. off. If stock try on, then off, then see the difference.

 

[Deuuuce]

It's all in the 60ft and density altitude. TC off and Sport mode but experiment with brake torque and throttle applications to get your 60fts below 2.0. The less tire slip and less bogging/hesitation you experience, the better 60ft you'll achieve and hence better ET and trap speed.

Which means you'll need to consider your tire inflation, temperature and surface adhesion. You'll want your tires warm, but not so hot they get greasy. That means doing a burnout to get some smoke, and buy the time the last Yellow lights up, they will be sticky but not greasy.

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[serstylz2]

RWD guys, unless you have a great tire and/or LSD, TC off is spinning death no matter what (unless you are untuned or no JB4)

1/4 mile for non Red Sport, make sure you ride 4th, should never have to go to 5th as we can make it to 130 in 4th

I dont think you could ride 3rd out in the 1/8, I think it's done by 92 mph

If your Launch Control is dialed in, practice with that and use it. I somehow messed mine up when I got rotors installed so I brake boost just under 2k RPM

 

[Deuuuce]

RWD guys, unless you have a great tire and/or LSD, TC off is spinning death no matter what (unless you are untuned or no JB4)

1/4 mile for non Red Sport, make sure you ride 4th, should never have to go to 5th as we can make it to 130 in 4th

I dont think you could ride 3rd out in the 1/8, I think it's done by 92 mph

If your Launch Control is dialed in, practice with that and use it. I somehow messed mine up when I got rotors installed so I brake boost just under 2k RPM

Not true about LSD and spinning. If the surface traction is roughly equal on both sides, an LSD won't make any difference whatsoever. All McLarens are open diff.

While LSD is almost always preferred, it adds weight (negligible) and depending upon the type of LSD, SRT engineers stated the shifting torque between axles on a 1/4 mile run can result in a minutely slower run.