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Discussion Starter #21
No issues post running logging runs with 1/2 of a tank or greater - fingers crossed!
 

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2018 Q50 AWD Red Sport
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No issues post running logging runs with 1/2 of a tank or greater - fingers crossed!
The Pure turbos are a gas. I like how they have more upper RPM power like my 3.7L G37IPL did, but more.😁

Over 5K it's a rocket. However I feel I lost the low end "bump" I had after my EcuTec tune and OEM turbos. Now this might be me not noticing the low end power because the over 5K is so much more now.

Once the remote tune is done I'll dyno it. The graph will tell all.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ditto - wife noticed the car had less low end “umph” - asked me what happened. Seb is working on Map 2 (WMI) and we are on revision #2 of that map (1st go had timing that was well above 12 and while the car was a bullet - there was some knock (-2 to -4 at times.)) He’s pulled back the timing a bit and I am going to swap out WMI nozzles - from PM3.5’s to BMS5’s. We’ll see how the additional WM and slightly lower timing at the same boost (1.3 bar I believe) logs.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Quick question on MAF numbers - I was under the impression that MAF readings should be close to 3000Hz at idle and both should be nearly the same. I have numbers in the 2600Hz range and B2 is routinely 20-40 above B1.

Am I chasing dragons or smoke ?
 

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The MAFs should be in the following ranges when the engine is warmed up, the tranny is in P or N, A/C off and no load:

Idle: 2800 - 3100 Hz
@ 2000 RPM: 2200-2600 Hz

Ignition switch on with engine not running: approx. 3300 Hz.
 
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Discussion Starter #26
Seb is still working on Map 2 - WMI + 93 Map. We are on revision 15+ It is very interesting to see how he is addressing knock at higher boost while balancing AFR, Timing, and EWG parameters. We are back up to 1.3 Bar, top timing is near 12 degrees, & AFRs are averaging mid 11’s. At the very same Boost level of 1.3 a half dozen of revisions before we had knock detection pulling from 2-4 degrees now we are rarely seeing any timing pull (0-1.5) except at very high 4th gear RPM (>5500k.) Very impressed with the way the car feels and is steadily getting stronger across the RPMs.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Update 11-18-20:

Seb and I are flummoxed. We are seeing knock detection/timing pulls (@1-2 degrees) with 93 pump gas (E10 according to my Flex Fuel sensor) and Water Meth Injection - nozzles ranging from BM5's all the way up to PM10's. What's odder still is we are not seeing the IAT and AFR numbers drop as expected with the increase in WM flow. I went so far as to pick up a very cheap and surprisingly very nice Amazon $47 borescope to see if we have boost juice residual/puddling in the intercoolers - nada.

Since the last update, Seb has the timing to about 14 while the boost remains at 1.3 bar. AFR numbers remain in the mid-high 11's. This led to us questioning IF the WMI was working - yes the tank was dropping after runs but hey never hurts to visually see the spray patterns and quantities bank to bank. So off came the nozzles and into Dallas Cowboys party cups (about all they are good for this year) - results were: nice spray pattern and nearly identical WM volume after two priming pulses. So why are the AFR numbers not dropping with the addition of all of that WM? I have run thru two separate gallon jugs of boost juice so a bad bottle seems unlikely. Multiple gas station runs from different stations to boot.

Fellow "need more power" shade tree mechanics - what are we missing? :unsure:
 

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Have you tried adding a bottle of HEET to the WMI tank to get the octane up? If you're spraying WMI and not seeing a change in AFR, either something isn't working on the kit, or your water content is too high. The methanol acting as higher octane is what drops the AFR when its injected. Adding a bottle of HEET should also help if your knock is due to being at the octane limit. 19 psi and 14 degrees on E10 and boost juice seems a little iffy to me, but I am conservative. Lastly, when you were testing the WMI spray, was that just using the JB4 "prime" button or did you actually go WOT and see the kit kick on fully?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Prime in the JB4 - in the garage with one person it might be hard with the car running to see if the JB4 / FSB is working - but I am open to suggestions! I’ll go grab a bottle of Heet to see if that juices up the boost juice.
 

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Prime in the JB4 - in the garage with one person it might be hard with the car running to see if the JB4 / FSB is working - but I am open to suggestions! I’ll go grab a bottle of Heet to see if that juices up the boost juice.
I thought you were on the dyno. My guess is your kit is primed and functioning but not actually turning on at WOT. I know we had to turn on those stupid trigger bits to get it to spray for all maps. Maybe a setting is wrong there. Otherwise it's an octane issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I need to go back a check which setting tuen on WMI for all Maps - Do you happen to recall?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I found the message from Terry B - It is Meth Trigger = 4 (turns on WMI for all Maps based on PSI only)
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Agree that with the JB4 OBD cable attached - that is the best option as the JB4 will use engine speed, throttle, and PSI to control the WMI - with the EcuTek OBD connector attached for logging, I am relegated to only using PSI to trigger WMI; hence the Meth Trigger = 4 (a modified quote that I rediscovered from Terry B months ago...)
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Well the WM tank is dropping after each pull so it's going somewhere... lol
 

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Discussion Starter #39
HEET is on the way - Monday I think...

I am toying with the idea of copying your nozzle install vs the BMS pre-intercooler injection point. Re-running the meth lines to equal them out at the T will reduce the bank to bank discrepancy as you had pointed out (not sure if this is even a concern.) The trick is to figure out from Amazon what I need to order - I'm not headed to Lowes for parts with all that is floating about. Do I need to move the intercoolers to get to the coupler? Are you still running the BM5's or did you go with another nozzle size?
 

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HEET is on the way - Monday I think...

I am toying with the idea of copying your nozzle install vs the BMS pre-intercooler injection point. Re-running the meth lines to equal them out at the T will reduce the bank to bank discrepancy as you had pointed out (not sure if this is even a concern.) The trick is to figure out from Amazon what I need to order - I'm not headed to Lowes for parts with all that is floating about. Do I need to move the intercoolers to get to the coupler? Are you still running the BM5's or did you go with another nozzle size?
They should stock HEET at your local auto parts store, no? I'm in FL and its always in stock. I'm still running BM5's. You do have to unbolt the intercoolers to slide out the couplers, but you do not have to disconnect any coolant lines so its really not that bad. I think there were 6 or 8 bolts per side. I bought some thin nuts and used blue loctite to ensure that they dont come loose. Buy a spare set of coupler....i think the factory size is 2.25". This way you keep the stock ones unmodified just in case since you'll have to drill a hole into them. You will also have to make a small notch on the outlet of the DS A2W cooler plastic. Just enough so the nozzle has a place to sit when everything is bolted back together.
 
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