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I found the message from Terry B - It is Meth Trigger = 4 (turns on WMI for all Maps based on PSI only)
agreed on Trigger = 4, just got this update from Terry yesterday. I run Map 6 with 0 boost stacked on my Ecutek. Headed to R/T Tuning for a WMI map in a few weeks. I’ve also recently installed the Killer Chiller(see that thread for details). So WMI mix may need to go to 75% Meth/25% Water, as my temps drop nicely because of the KC❄👍.
 

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They should stock HEET at your local auto parts store, no? I'm in FL and its always in stock. I'm still running BM5's. You do have to unbolt the intercoolers to slide out the couplers, but you do not have to disconnect any coolant lines so its really not that bad. I think there were 6 or 8 bolts per side. I bought some thin nuts and used blue loctite to ensure that they dont come loose. Buy a spare set of coupler....i think the factory size is 2.25". This way you keep the stock ones unmodified just in case since you'll have to drill a hole into them. You will also have to make a small notch on the outlet of the DS A2W cooler plastic. Just enough so the nozzle has a place to sit when everything is bolted back together.
I’ve been mixing my own in 2020 at 50/50(volume) with VP Racing M1+Distilled Water, as Boost Juice was dying my throttle bodies pink. Leave no trace ;-)
 

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Boost juice is over priced in my opinion for what it is.
Buy technical grade methanol and make your own boost juice. It's just water and methanol anyway. A lot less expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Looks like I will be taking those comments to Amazon 😎
HEET and distilled H2O is easy to obtain -

Does anyone know the volumetric equation for obtaining a 50/50 mix? I recall it’s not an equal volume for each.
 

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Looks like I will be taking those comments to Amazon 😎
HEET and distilled H2O is easy to obtain -

Does anyone know the volumetric equation for obtaining a 50/50 mix? I recall it’s not an equal volume for each.
Heet is 99% methanol. Just buy tech grade methanol and make your own.

My advice if you want a true 50-50 mixture of methanol, you need to calculate the amounts on a weight basis, not by volume or it won't be 50-50.

Pure methanol weights 6.6 lbs/gal and water (you should always use distilled) is 8.34 lbs/gal.

So the density of pure methanol is 0.79 that of water so for every volumetric unit of water, you'll need to mix 1.26 (inverse of 0.79) times whatever volume of water you choose.

Example: 16 fluid oz. of water would require about 20.2 fluid oz. of methanol to make a 50-50 mixture.

This is assuming my fading knowledge of chemistry isn't completely gone.
 
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Before you go and break out the bathroom scale.....get the bottle or HEET added to the boost juice BEING CAREFUL BECAUSE GREATER THAN 50/50 CAN BE FLAMMABLE and see if it helps your trims/AFR. Are you definitely switching to my style of WMI?
 

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Before you go and break out the bathroom scale.....get the bottle or HEET added to the boost juice BEING CAREFUL BECAUSE GREATER THAN 50/50 CAN BE FLAMMABLE and see if it helps your trims/AFR. Are you definitely switching to my style of WMI?
A methanol/water mixture of ≥ 20% methanol is considered flammable. The flash point of pure MEOH is 48°F. The flash point of 25% MEOH is 106°F and 50% MEOH is 81°F. Avoid getting 50% MEOH on your car paint. It can damage paint if left on for a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Are you definitely switching to my style of WMI?
I am talking with Dropbear about their injection plate - bunch of extra work but the install looks like it could work with the JB4/FSB - they want me to move the solenoid right next to the distribution for each line to the check valve / nozzle. So I have some serious head scratching to do as your model is easier but Seb and I don’t know if it will yield results worth the effort.
 

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I am talking with Dropbear about their injection plate - bunch of extra work but the install looks like it could work with the JB4/FSB - they want me to move the solenoid right next to the distribution for each line to the check valve / nozzle. So I have some serious head scratching to do as your model is easier but Seb and I don’t know if it will yield results worth the effort.
I’ve been watching Dropbear’s design progress (via FB). I wonder if there’s enough distance to cylinder for mist to be atomized? Be cautious on the size of each nozzle.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
It seems like their setup is with six 3.5gph ProMeth check valve/nozzles. That’s a lot of WM by my math. Most I have ever tried was a pair of PM10’s but I went back to BM7’s and got similar log results w/o the additional WM.
 

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The opposite is my gripe with the BMS location. It vaporizes too early from research I've done.
The opposite is my gripe with the BMS location. It vaporizes too early from research I've done.
I have the BMS inlets and there’s enough Boost Juice to coat my throttle bodies, so must be good. It would be great to understand your research (IAT2 temps, EGT, etc.?). Respectfully of course.
 

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The advantage of spraying WMI pre turbo is that is shifts the compressor map to the right, letting you stretch the turbo a little farther. BMS did a pre-turbo injection point because it was easier to design and they could sell the inlets. Spraying where I spray wasn't as easy to install and I had to modify the outlet of the driverside A2W plastic coupler which some are not willing to do.

I've taken info and tips from a couple of specific people in the LS community as there are many more members running WMI going much faster than anyone on this forum, myself included. One in particular is a chemist by day. My turbo LS6 also has WMI with a single M10 nozzle right before the throttle body. Without the WMI, I couldn't run above ~10 psi on a 78mm turbo without picking up knock with low timing. Adding the WMI (regular WWF) lets me see 15 psi+ without a hint of knock. It's not because of the added octane, it's because of dropping combustion temps.

There are 2 benefits to WMI injection. The methanol content acts as an octane booster. So if you're octane limited for the boost/timing you run and temps are under control, running a higher methanol content helps. Water injection's sole purpose in life is to pull heat out of the air charge. The best place to pull the most heat out to prevent knock/pre-ignition is closest to the combustion chamber. You want the WMI to change to a vapor close to or in the combustion chamber. This is the best bang for the buck as it can pull out the most heat. We all know that above XX boost at a given RPM, the stock turbos just produce more heat. Spraying at the turbo inlet isn't great for puling max heat because it has to go through the turbo, intake tract, as well as the A2W intercoolers. Typically this will make the phase change in the intake tract before it gets into the combustion chamber. I believe that we have more of an air charge heat issue than an octane issue, hence the reason that running boost juice hasn't shown gains above regular old -20F WWF. Given that we're running more boost than stock and have undersized turbos, I like the injection point that pulls out the most heat from the combustion chamber as possible to keep knock at bay. Everyone is free to do what they want, but this is why I chose the injection point that I did.
 

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The advantage of spraying WMI pre turbo is that is shifts the compressor map to the right, letting you stretch the turbo a little farther. BMS did a pre-turbo injection point because it was easier to design and they could sell the inlets. Spraying where I spray wasn't as easy to install and I had to modify the outlet of the driverside A2W plastic coupler which some are not willing to do.
Are you talking about these silicone nozzle adapters? They are post turbo not pre. Or does BMS sell something else too?

 

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Are you talking about these silicone nozzle adapters? They are post turbo not pre. Or does BMS sell something else too?

That makes me feel better. I though many were installing them in the turbo inlet tubes that BMS sell. It's definitely better, not sure I'd say it's ideal.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
A bottle of HEET added to WMI tank - car is running an E-64 fuel blend and running Seb's Map 3 Flex Fuel tune.

Wow! The first batch of logs have been sent his way - nearly 20psi with 18'ish timing, mid/low 11 AFR numbers, and no knock. Those Pure Stage2 turbos just keep wanting more as RPM's climb - big difference over the OEM snails. I will need to seriously look into an LSD for my RWD car and an upgraded means to slow back down. The non-sport breaks on my Premium Q are not up to the task. Good problems to have - come on Black Friday deals for Christmas!!
 

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Discussion Starter #59
That makes me feel better. I though many were installing them in the turbo inlet tubes that BMS sell. It's definitely better, not sure I'd say it's ideal.
Agreed - all my research says post intercooler and closest to the cylinder is best for cooling.
 

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A bottle of HEET added to WMI tank - car is running an E-64 fuel blend and running Seb's Map 3 Flex Fuel tune.

Wow! The first batch of logs have been sent his way - nearly 20psi with 18'ish timing, mid/low 11 AFR numbers, and no knock. Those Pure Stage2 turbos just keep wanting more as RPM's climb - big difference over the OEM snails. I will need to seriously look into an LSD for my RWD car and an upgraded means to slow back down. The non-sport breaks on my Premium Q are not up to the task. Good problems to have - come on Black Friday deals for Christmas!!
The bottle of HEET did the trick then?
 
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