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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My amplifier is not getting any signal from the line output converter. My sub rattles with some sound but it is not firing at all essentially. It was working fine when I first installed it but I used crimps for the wires connecting to the line output converter to the stock wires where the stock subwoofer is, but I didn't cover them. I think they were touching each other when I was making turns and now my subwoofer is not firing at all. I've gotten a new line output converter and it hasn't solved the problem. My question is, what cables should I tap into before the stock amp to get signal to my amplifier. I'm only running one 12 inch sub at 300watt rms 1000watt peak. I've eliminated a couple of things it could possibly be. I know the amp I have in there is getting enough power, I tapped the rear battery I don't think many people know there's a second battery in this car but it's there. My connections are solid and my amplifier is turning on, my ground wire is secured to a good spot on the frame. I think the cables I tapped into the line output converter may have shorted something in the stock amplifier and now its not sending audio signal to those wires.

A wiring diagram of what wires go into the amp from the HU that carry that subwoofer signal would be so helpful.

Anyone else had this problem before?

2017 Q50 2.0T
 

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My amplifier is not getting any signal from the line output converter. My sub rattles with some sound but it is not firing at all essentially. It was working fine when I first installed it but I used crimps for the wires connecting to the line output converter to the stock wires where the stock subwoofer is, but I didn't cover them. I think they were touching each other when I was making turns and now my subwoofer is not firing at all. I've gotten a new line output converter and it hasn't solved the problem. My question is, what cables should I tap into before the stock amp to get signal to my amplifier. I'm only running one 12 inch sub at 300watt rms 1000watt peak. I've eliminated a couple of things it could possibly be. I know the amp I have in there is getting enough power, I tapped the rear battery I don't think many people know there's a second battery in this car but it's there. My connections are solid and my amplifier is turning on, my ground wire is secured to a good spot on the frame. I think the cables I tapped into the line output converter may have shorted something in the stock amplifier and now its not sending audio signal to those wires.

A wiring diagram of what wires go into the amp from the HU that carry that subwoofer signal would be so helpful.

Anyone else had this problem before?

2017 Q50 2.0T
There's no separate subwoofer signal being sent to the Bose amp. The AV Control Unit only outputs left and right channel signals to the Bose amp. The Bose amp does all the separation to the tweeters, squawkers, speakers, and woofers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was thinking about tapping into the door subwoofers... I'm not sure if this the right move. I read someone did it and they said it sounded 50 times better than tapping into the subwoofer's cables. Do you think I could've shorted a fuse in the bose amp from those two wires touching? It's just very strange... it was working fine when I originally installed the amp and sub but I took a couple turns in my car and now I'm not getting anything coming out of the subwoofer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There's no separate subwoofer signal being sent to the Bose amp. The AV Control Unit only outputs left and right channel signals to the Bose amp. The Bose amp does all the separation to the tweeters, squawkers, speakers, and woofers.
I'm going to do some tests on my wiring and power connections. I do believe its an issue with the power signal from the stock subwoofer to my aftermarket amplifier, the issue stemming from the bose amplifier. Do you know of anyway to replace fuses on the stock amplifier? It's just weird since every other speaker is still working. Perhaps I can tap into another speaker... I'm going to try giving the amplilfier signal from my phone using RCA cables.
 

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I'm going to do some tests on my wiring and power connections. I do believe its an issue with the power signal from the stock subwoofer to my aftermarket amplifier, the issue stemming from the bose amplifier. Do you know of anyway to replace fuses on the stock amplifier? It's just weird since every other speaker is still working. Perhaps I can tap into another speaker... I'm going to try giving the amplilfier signal from my phone using RCA cables.
I am not aware of replaceable fuses in the Bose amp but one might think there could be fusible links. I don't know. Good luck chasing this down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks brotha, hopefully I can get this figured out... If its the signal from the head unit that's bad or shorted I'll probably just tap into the door speaker, or try and replace the fuse. If it's my amp that's not functioning and sending sound the sub then I'll just return and replace the amplifier.
 

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I know some aftermarket amps and output converters can use “signal sense” from the high level inputs from the head unit or amp instead of a 12v switched (remote) power.

When I did my system in my non Bose I tried using this feature on my output converter and it would not work correctly. The output converter would power on but I didn’t get any sound from it. After trying a lot of different things I decided to try a switched 12v source and it solved the problem.

I’m not sure if this is relevant to your situation but if you are using a similar feature it may be worth it to try a different way to switch on/off. I also had to connect directly to my phone to troubleshoot so that’ll tell you if your problem is with input signal or amplifier.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I know some aftermarket amps and output converters can use “signal sense” from the high level inputs from the head unit or amp instead of a 12v switched (remote) power.

When I did my system in my non Bose I tried using this feature on my output converter and it would not work correctly. The output converter would power on but I didn’t get any sound from it. After trying a lot of different things I decided to try a switched 12v source and it solved the problem.

I’m not sure if this is relevant to your situation but if you are using a similar feature it may be worth it to try a different way to switch on/off. I also had to connect directly to my phone to troubleshoot so that’ll tell you if your problem is with input signal or amplifier.
When it wasn't working correctly, was your amp turning on? Were you getting any sound through your sub?
 

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I had the high level input switching on the output converter which had a remote out feature that I could use to turn on my amp also. By doing this I didn’t have to use a dedicated remote on/off for either one. The amp would turn on and play with an alternate input source. Something about the high level signal would not allow the converter to work properly. For reference my converter is the LCQ-1 from Audiocontrol.
Everything powered on but I had no sound from any speakers (5 channel amp)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had the high level input switching on the output converter which had a remote out feature that I could use to turn on my amp also. By doing this I didn’t have to use a dedicated remote on/off for either one. The amp would turn on and play with an alternate input source. Something about the high level signal would not allow the converter to work properly. For reference my converter is the LCQ-1 from Audiocontrol.
Everything powered on but I had no sound from any speakers (5 channel amp)
I don't think this is the same issue I'm having, but thanks for the info. I'm planning on just taking it to car toys rather than troubleshooting myself. I'll let you all know what I find out from them. Hopefully this will be helpful info for people in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My apologies to anyone who may have been following this post... After doing some test with my multimeter, I found out the actual subwoofer was just blown! If you're planning on doing an install yourself a multimeter can be very helpful. I picked mine up for $11 from ACE.
 
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