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Phew that is some tight clearances!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Bad news. Dealer says oil pan was shattered, oil pump was damaged, engine was damaged, and car needs a long block. Estimated repair costs are going to be north of $25k all included for all parts and labor.

Everyone, please go ahead and get at least the metal skid plate if not the metal oil pan. The car should have been able to survive this.
 

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Bad news. Dealer says oil pan was shattered, oil pump was damaged, engine was damaged, and car needs a long block. Estimated repair costs are going to be north of $25k all included for all parts and labor.

Everyone, please go ahead and get at least the metal skid plate if not the metal oil pan. The car should have been able to survive this.
Hmm, was it because it was ran without oil? Otherwise, not sure how the pump broke much less the entire engine incl. the heads (for a long block).

Hopefully the insurance will cover this...Not sure I'd ever want to put that sort of $$$ into this car, but what choice would you have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Hmm, was it because it was ran without oil? Otherwise, not sure how the pump broke much less the entire engine incl. the heads (for a long block).

Hopefully the insurance will cover this...Not sure I'd ever want to put that sort of $$$ into this car, but what choice would you have?
They're working with my insurance (USAA). I'm already mentally preparing to get the call that insurance is going to write the car off as a total loss. Infiniti dealer said parts + labor will be north of $25k; that may not include core credits, which should bring the cost down quite a bit. The car's blue book value is ~$30k. I'm estimating repair costs are going to be 75%+ of vehicle value. My rates are probably going to skyrocket.

My payoff is $23k. The payout would only conceivably put $7k in my pocket at most and I have zero interest in buying a super inflated used/new car at a stupid interest rate. It's really in my best interest to have the car repaired. The dealer said they have already sourced a new long block if insurance authorizes. Fingers crossed...

All this for a piece of wood on the freeway...
 

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Spartanburg, SC 2016 RS Q50
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Is your insurance paying the bill?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
This was a big learning lesson for me. If I didn't have insurance, I would be SCREWED. I would be paying a few more years on something that would take me probably $8k-$10k to put back on the road (if I frugally sourced a used long block and used a third party shop). I'm pretty tech savvy and I've done a lot of work on cars, but I would not feel comfortable tackling this nor do I have the lift and resources to do a swap. It's my daily to top it off.

The moral of the story is that major repairs of modern cars are going to become so cost prohibitive that the liability to own a car out of warranty will be too high of risk. Cars at some point will stop being 'owned' and will just be leased or warrantied through the duration of ownership.
 

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Sorry to hear, but at least nobody was hurt. It gives me another mental reminder to stick with the rules I've been using for a while now:
1. Never drive behind open trailers or truck beds even when they aren't carrying materials. Too many times I've seen random debris fly off.
2. Never drive behind loaded trailers or truck beds...
3. Never talk about fight club!
 

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Bad news. Dealer says oil pan was shattered, oil pump was damaged, engine was damaged, and car needs a long block. Estimated repair costs are going to be north of $25k all included for all parts and labor.
Really? that is crazy. You said the last start by the tow driver sounded fine. Can you get your hands on the insurance payment and then just source a new pan and slap it on there? To me it would be worth a shot. Find it hard to believe that the engine is ruined.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Really? that is crazy. You said the last start by the tow driver sounded fine. Can you get your hands on the insurance payment and then just source a new pan and slap it on there? To me it would be worth a shot. Find it hard to believe that the engine is ruined.
It could be the dealer squeezing insurance. I've contemplated that. We'll see what insurance says first and what my options are.
 

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Bad news. Dealer says oil pan was shattered, oil pump was damaged, engine was damaged, and car needs a long block. Estimated repair costs are going to be north of $25k all included for all parts and labor.

Everyone, please go ahead and get at least the metal skid plate if not the metal oil pan. The car should have been able to survive this.

Won't matter, a stock Q50 (awd and rwd, any trim) is lower than the 6x6 block anyways.

Hitting a wooden block at 60mph will destroy the skid plate and oil pan too. The DB oil pan, while stronger than a FRP pan, will still break when stuck by a 2lb of wood at 60-70mph.

Do not fool yourselves in to thinking that a metal pan won't fail or that a silly piece of thin sheet aluminum is going to protect your car from anything larger than small pebbles. It's phenomenal for oil change access, but not much else.
 
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Do not fool yourselves in to thinking that a metal pan won't fail or that a silly piece of thin sheet aluminum is going to protect your car from anything larger than small pebbles. It's phenomenal for oil change access, but not much else.
Correct - the laws of physics and your degree of sheer luck will dictate your success or fail with striking objects in the road. That said, the one time I struck an object, going back 10 years or so ago, was a chunk of displaced concrete curbing in the center of a left turn lane with my Audi A4 Quattro. It was after sunset, raining, and I was approaching an intersection to make a left turn. As I was slowing down, I heard a "Bam" from underneath the car, followed by an awfully loud scraping noise. I came to a stop, and with no vehicle behind me, backed-up and got out of the car to see that I had driven over the curbing.

Pushed the curbing to the median, got back in the car, so no warning lights were on, and proceeded onward.

Got the car up in the air the next day, and the curbing had struck the Aluminum skid plate, leaving a nice gouge but didn't puncture it. Thanked my good sense to install the skid plate, since I had lowered the car on KW C/Os.

So in that isolated case, the $249 investment in the Aluminum Skid Plate was worth it.
 

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That's a completely fair and relevant point. It's also exactly what the skid plate was designed to protect against.

Probably more important, luck is going to determine success more than the plate. It's not like these things are more than a few mm thick at most. It's entirely possible that if that chuck had rotated in a slightly different angle, your story would be different.

I'm saying that it's unwise to install one and think that you're immune to failures. It's a step in the right direction but almost nothing will prevent people from bad luck.
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
That's a completely fair and relevant point. It's also exactly what the skid plate was designed to protect against.

Probably more important, luck is going to determine success more than the plate. It's not like these things are more than a few mm thick at most. It's entirely possible that if that chuck had rotated in a slightly different angle, your story would be different.

I'm saying that it's unwise to install one and think that you're immune to failures. It's a step in the right direction but almost nothing will prevent people from bad luck.
I think that's a fair point. This was at the end of the day just **** luck which is a part of just existing. I've driven lowered sport cars and sedans since I was 20 and driven hundreds of thousands of miles, and this is my first experience like this in 25 years. Statistically, I should be very safe for a while. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Also, I've been shopping 2018+ q50 and q60s as a replacement just in case the car is written off by insurance; there's a good inventory and prices are coming down and reasonable from even 6 months ago.

I have all of the stock parts, so I would just have the car towed to my house and stock it out before I let insurance take it. Since the car wasn't in a collision, I can move the BBK, coilovers, wheels/tires, JB4, intakes, downpipes, exhaust, etc. to the new car.
 

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And on another episode of "Just Rolled In"...


Posting this to show you are not alone, except for that fact it was a pothole vs block of wood that caused the damage,
 

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Also, I've been shopping 2018+ q50 and q60s as a replacement just in case the car is written off by insurance; there's a good inventory and prices are coming down and reasonable from even 6 months ago.

I have all of the stock parts, so I would just have the car towed to my house and stock it out before I let insurance take it. Since the car wasn't in a collision, I can move the BBK, coilovers, wheels/tires, JB4, intakes, downpipes, exhaust, etc. to the new car.
So you told the insurance the truth that the six-by-six was tumbling on the road and it had bounced into your lane and it was still tumbling when you ran over it?

Because the truth shall set you free... Or at least repair your car for free
 
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