@FD3TOE46 Any guesses on the weight of the rear diff?
I estimate roughly 40-50lbs range? For sure you don't want that thing landing on your head@FD3TOE46 Any guesses on the weight of the rear diff?
Agreed... I already scraped my right shoulder on the rear subframe trying to wiggle out from under the car for the nth time yesterday.I estimate roughly 40-50lbs range? For sure you don't want that thing landing on your head![]()
I can't find any reference to those purple markings in the SM regarding their alignment.NEXT UPDATE: The rear diff is out!
I drained out the gear oil before I started to loosen the diff mounts. Here's what the drain plug magnet looked like after 15k miles (my Q has 30k miles, and the driveline fluids were changed-out @ 15k miles):
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After the fluid drained out, I bungeed the park brake cables out of the way, and set up the rubber bungees for supporting the half-shafts later. The two axle speed sensors were removed, and I tucked them on top of the rear subframe.
I used the 800-lb transmission jack with its flat plate to hold the diff case while I removed the rear nut and the two bolts towards the front of the diff case. I enlisted the neighbor's help to make sure the diff didn't move off the jack's flat plate as we lowered it. We disconnected the vent line, and also pushed out the plastic rivet for the tubing retainer, too.
Everything went according to plan until trying to dislodge the half-shafts. My neighbor brought over a better prybar set than I had, and after trying to gingerly pry on the trigger wheel, which I know you're not supposed to do, we simply used a little more muscle and "popped-out" the splines. Despite what the SM says, the spacers just inboard of the trigger wheel can't be used as a prying point, because they never make it past the diff case. After sliding the half-shaft splines out, I moved the diff out from under the car. I wrapped the rubber bungees around each half-shaft to keep them from falling towards the floor, which, if left unsupported, would put unwanted stress on the outer CV joints.
Here's how it looks with the diff out of its usual space (yellow towels are there to keep the boots from getting nicked by sharp edges):
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As for getting the Quaife LSD installed, it looks like early Monday morning me and the Mrs. will put the diff into a sturdy container, load it into the SQ5, and travel down to the Tigard-area race shop, since I'm not fond of Fedex Ground delivery right now. Besides, I'd like to finally meet Martin, who owns the shop and previously installed the RS-R C/Os & SPL Parts suspension bits last May (we've never met in-person).
One question - any significance to the purple marking on the diff mount spacers shown above? I didn't make a mental note of their clocking when removing the diff.
Thanks Tin Man. Looking at the spacers, nothing appears unique, so I've concluded they must have been markings at the factory to signify the two front mounting bolts were torqued to the installation spec.I can't find any reference to those purple markings in the SM regarding their alignment.
That's usually the case, as simple mark to indicate they've been torqued to spec. Although they typically have it on the bolts themselves not the component itself whichThanks Tin Man. Looking at the spacers, nothing appears unique, so I've concluded they must have been markings at the factory to signify the two front mounting bolts were torqued to the installation spec.
BTW, the shipping weight for the differential was 70 lbs.I estimate roughly 40-50lbs range? For sure you don't want that thing landing on your head![]()
yeah...Im late to the game, but when I got the crate from Z1 with a complete rear diff, I thought it felt more like 100.BTW, the shipping weight for the differential was 70 lbs.
The race shop wrapped the diff in a plastic bag, then foamed in-place within a thick-walled cardboard box.yeah...Im late to the game, but when I got the crate from Z1 with a complete rear diff, I thought it felt more like 100.
mine is working fine for a good 20k miles.Now that I had my shop install the Quaife LSD, here's the break-down for the LSD upgrade:
Quaife LSD (from CZP)--------------------$1,299
Full Bearing & Seal Kit (from Z1)-----------$366 (includes tax)
Labor to Install LSD in Diff Housing--------$600
Total---------------------------------------$2,234 + shipping
Compared to Z1's drop-in replacement w/core charges ($600) for $2,298 + taxes + shipping. Obviously, you can save over $500 with the Z1 option, but I had my intentions of getting the Wavetrac, until they developed quality control issues, so I opted for the Quaife, which has a solid rep.
Make yourself a note to torque the remaining bolts and put it in a prominent location so you don't forget to do so. Your enthusiasm once you get the calipers back will wipe that mental reminder right out of your brain.UPDATE (4): The circlip arrived at the dealership this afternoon (9/25), so I made the one-hour RT trek to go get it. Once back at the house, I was able to install the circlip by hand with a small amount of wheel bearing grease. We determined the best way to drive the CV joint shaft into the diff (must overcome the circlip tension) was to install the diff with the two mounting bolts in front and the rear nut, and then use a block of wood on the rubber boot where it meets the CV housing. That would give the axle spline a straight shot (not at an angle). A few swings with hammer on the wood and the axle spline was fully-seated.
With that out of the way, I proceeded to torque the diff mounts to spec (74 ft-lbs for the two front bolts, and 77 ft-lbs for the rear nut). I re-installed the IE driveshaft (D/S), which with its lighter weight and one-piece design, can be installed with one person. The only issue that came up - I couldn't torque two of the four bolts at the front flange of the D/S, as they were at the top, because my Q is in Park, and to rotate the D/S, it has to be out of Park. However, moving out of Park means pressing the brake pedal, and I can't do that because I would blow the caps off the brake lines, since my calipers are off getting rebuilt. I debated screwing with the brake pedal switch, but I opted not to.
Oh well, my remaining tasks on the driveline are filling the diff with fluid, torque the front D/S flange bolts, re-installing the FI X-pipe and mufflers, and re-installing the tunnel brace. It can wait until I get my calipers back, which should be no more than 10 work days from today.
Imagine that - I looked in the owner's manual for a Shift Interlock Release, so that I could finish torquing up the transfer case side of the D/S flange since I couldn't move the brake pedal.Make yourself a note to torque the remaining bolts and put it in a prominent location so you don't forget to do so. Your enthusiasm once you get the calipers back will wipe that mental reminder right out of your brain.