@FD3TOE46 Any guesses on the weight of the rear diff?
Removal & Installation of Rear Diff for Quaife LSD
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I estimate roughly 40-50lbs range? For sure you don't want that thing landing on your head
Agreed... I already scraped my right shoulder on the rear subframe trying to wiggle out from under the car for the nth time yesterday.I estimate roughly 40-50lbs range? For sure you don't want that thing landing on your head
NEXT UPDATE: The rear diff is out!
I drained out the gear oil before I started to loosen the diff mounts. Here's what the drain plug magnet looked like after 15k miles (my Q has 30k miles, and the driveline fluids were changed-out @ 15k miles):
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After the fluid drained out, I bungeed the park brake cables out of the way, and set up the rubber bungees for supporting the half-shafts later. The two axle speed sensors were removed, and I tucked them on top of the rear subframe.
I used the 800-lb transmission jack with its flat plate to hold the diff case while I removed the rear nut and the two bolts towards the front of the diff case. I enlisted the neighbor's help to make sure the diff didn't move off the jack's flat plate as we lowered it. We disconnected the vent line, and also pushed out the plastic rivet for the tubing retainer, too.
Everything went according to plan until trying to dislodge the half-shafts. My neighbor brought over a better prybar set than I had, and after trying to gingerly pry on the trigger wheel, which I know you're not supposed to do, we simply used a little more muscle and "popped-out" the splines. Despite what the SM says, the spacers just inboard of the trigger wheel can't be used as a prying point, because they never make it past the diff case. After sliding the half-shaft splines out, I moved the diff out from under the car. I wrapped the rubber bungees around each half-shaft to keep them from falling towards the floor, which, if left unsupported, would put unwanted stress on the outer CV joints.
Here's how it looks with the diff out of its usual space (yellow towels are there to keep the boots from getting nicked by sharp edges):
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As for getting the Quaife LSD installed, it looks like early Monday morning me and the Mrs. will put the diff into a sturdy container, load it into the SQ5, and travel down to the Tigard-area race shop, since I'm not fond of Fedex Ground delivery right now. Besides, I'd like to finally meet Martin, who owns the shop and previously installed the RS-R C/Os & SPL Parts suspension bits last May (we've never met in-person).
One question - any significance to the purple marking on the diff mount spacers shown above? I didn't make a mental note of their clocking when removing the diff.
I drained out the gear oil before I started to loosen the diff mounts. Here's what the drain plug magnet looked like after 15k miles (my Q has 30k miles, and the driveline fluids were changed-out @ 15k miles):
After the fluid drained out, I bungeed the park brake cables out of the way, and set up the rubber bungees for supporting the half-shafts later. The two axle speed sensors were removed, and I tucked them on top of the rear subframe.
I used the 800-lb transmission jack with its flat plate to hold the diff case while I removed the rear nut and the two bolts towards the front of the diff case. I enlisted the neighbor's help to make sure the diff didn't move off the jack's flat plate as we lowered it. We disconnected the vent line, and also pushed out the plastic rivet for the tubing retainer, too.
Everything went according to plan until trying to dislodge the half-shafts. My neighbor brought over a better prybar set than I had, and after trying to gingerly pry on the trigger wheel, which I know you're not supposed to do, we simply used a little more muscle and "popped-out" the splines. Despite what the SM says, the spacers just inboard of the trigger wheel can't be used as a prying point, because they never make it past the diff case. After sliding the half-shaft splines out, I moved the diff out from under the car. I wrapped the rubber bungees around each half-shaft to keep them from falling towards the floor, which, if left unsupported, would put unwanted stress on the outer CV joints.
Here's how it looks with the diff out of its usual space (yellow towels are there to keep the boots from getting nicked by sharp edges):
As for getting the Quaife LSD installed, it looks like early Monday morning me and the Mrs. will put the diff into a sturdy container, load it into the SQ5, and travel down to the Tigard-area race shop, since I'm not fond of Fedex Ground delivery right now. Besides, I'd like to finally meet Martin, who owns the shop and previously installed the RS-R C/Os & SPL Parts suspension bits last May (we've never met in-person).
One question - any significance to the purple marking on the diff mount spacers shown above? I didn't make a mental note of their clocking when removing the diff.
BTW, the shipping weight for the differential was 70 lbs.I estimate roughly 40-50lbs range? For sure you don't want that thing landing on your head
Imagine that - I looked in the owner's manual for a Shift Interlock Release, so that I could finish torquing up the transfer case side of the D/S flange since I couldn't move the brake pedal.
Bingo!
After some delay in the caliper rebuild, due in-part to sourcing the Stoptech piston and dust seals for my calipers, and I wanted the housing halves split during the paint process, I should finally have them back in my possession this week.
Pics of calipers after rebuild without housing bolts, caliper bridge plate, or interconnect tube installed::
Normally, on the red caliper bodies, the Stoptech branding is white:
I didn't really want the Stoptech branding to stand out on these re-finished calipers, so I opted keep the caliper bodies one color. The branding wasn't standing out when the caliper bodies were the original anodized Aluminum finish, but the calipers didn't stand-out either.
dang op iridium, patience of a saint
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