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I didn't see an A/C compressor on the list of items replaced.

Does the belt ever chirp with the A/C off? If not, my best guess is with the A/C Compressor itself.

It may be causing an erratic load due to an internal mechanical problem when the rpms increase, and this additional load is causing the belt tension to oscillate, which creates the chirp.

It would interesting to see when the A/C Compressor is operating, if the high pressure output is erratic or is constant. I also wonder how much oil content is in the refrigerant? A lower level of oil could be causing the compressor to work harder at higher rpms, which would drive up the internal working temperature (bad).
 

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Goodluck man! In my opinion, it’s a losing battle for nissan either way. The TSB isn’t the ultimate fix for the belt issue the way I see it.
 

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I had a load dependent chirp shortly after getting mine, 2017 outside the VIN range per the TSB. Took it in and told them about it. They said they checked it and did nothing, but magically my chirp never came back.

......Believe or not I have actually never went WOT on this car. I just don't really drive that way lol
You're missing the BEST part about the car.
 

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I guess I just don't drive anywhere that it would be safe to do that.

Keep an eye on that chirp, mine would go away and come back. Try going in manual mode, 4th gear, AC on and cranked, and give it a long 25% throttle pull and see if it starts slipping at 2800-3500 RPM, thats when mine was the worst. Sometimes it would just do it through 3 and 4 gear, and I don't know if it was related to ambient temps or what.
Will have to check it out. Was in manual mode at the drag strip last week and heard no chirp, but no A/C obviously.
 

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Excellent write up of your entire process @helterstupid, I think we need to get the mods to add a sticky to this thread.
Works as a great "How To Guide" if you are looking at perusing a lemon law claim against a manufacture.

On a side note most mechanics actually recommend owners take a modern turbo DI engines near red-line AKA "The Italian Tuneup".
It allows the engine to reach higher operating temperatures where it's harder for Carbon to form and it has a greater
chance of loosing some of that build up so it can be shot out the exhaust.

The fuel/air mixture is less rich so your having a more complete fuel burn as well.
 

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Excellent write up of your entire process @helterstupid, I think we need to get the mods to add a sticky to this thread.
Works as a great "How To Guide" if you are looking at perusing a lemon law claim against a manufacture.

On a side note most mechanics actually recommend owners take a modern turbo DI engines near red-line AKA "The Italian Tuneup".
It allows the engine to reach higher operating temperatures where it's harder for Carbon to form and it has a greater
chance of loosing some of that build up so it can be shot out the exhaust.

The fuel/air mixture is less rich so your having a more complete fuel burn as well.
Can you explain the last sentence? The AFR is richer at WOT than at part throttle/idle.
 

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thanks, it is kinda hard to find information about how it works

the service manager advised running lucas fuel additive on a 3/4 full tank every 7500 miles to blast out the residue from DI
That stuff is like gold. I've used it for years.
 

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That stuff is like gold. I've used it for years.
Aye that stuff is excellent, I tossed a bottle into my Altima at least once a year to clean out the injectors.
It won't do anything to clean the carbon build up at the back of the intake valves but could be a good preventive measure
to let the fuel burn cleaner.
 
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