Infiniti Q50 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After someone on here posted a random gates part number but no info about the stock 3.0t belt, i contacted gates and was sent to this page:
http://navigates.gates.com/AddedValue.aspx?PartNumber=K060766A

Now that we actually have belt specs, we can find a replacement that doesn't require going to the dealer.
Material EDPM, Aramid Cord
OE Comparison Rating OE Exact
Section K
Number of Ribs 6
Top Width (in) .807
Top Width (mm) 20
Outside Circumference (in) 77.25
Outside Circumference (mm) 1962

I did a search through Dayco to find something close and came up with:
5060770

Rib Profile W Profile
Metric Part 6PK1955
Effective Length (in) 77.10
Top Width (in) 0.82
Thickness 0.17
No. of Ribs 6
Rib Depth Standard
Compound EPDM, Aramid Reinforced
Backside Material Rubber

It's about a tenth of an inch shorter and wider. I'm wondering if this will help keep the belt in place since they have a greater tendency to get thrown when they wear and stretch in length. Also, the cost is about $16 and available from many vendors. Thoughts?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,958 Posts
After someone on here posted a random gates part number but no info about the stock 3.0t belt...
That's me (raises hand). Guilty as charged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,895 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,546 Posts
Subscribed curious if this will work and if it will resolve the issue... But given the TSB is for a Pulley being out of alignment I'm not sure this would solve the issue...
If a better quality belt was the fix I think Nissan would have just replaced them with a new product/manufacture and been done with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Subscribed curious if this will work and if it will resolve the issue... But given the TSB is for a Pulley being out of alignment I'm not sure this would solve the issue...
If a better quality belt was the fix I think Nissan would have just replaced them with a new product/manufacture and been done with it.
had I not JUST bought a new belt from Z1 I would buy the one I linked to. If someone wants to buy my OEM belt I'll buy 1 of these ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,546 Posts
had I not JUST bought a new belt from Z1 I would buy the one I linked to. If someone wants to buy my OEM belt I'll buy 1 of these ?
Just do a comparison? I'm sure the Z1 belt will be as good or better than OEM so a comparison between one the belts in the links is probably
not worth it at that point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
had I not JUST bought a new belt from Z1 I would buy the one I linked to. If someone wants to buy my OEM belt I'll buy 1 of these ?
Just do a comparison? I'm sure the Z1 belt will be as good or better than OEM so a comparison between one the belts in the links is probably
not worth it at that point.
I think the Z1 IS the OEM belt so it'll have the same problem. May get the other belt anyways to see how much better the tension is.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,958 Posts
None of those say direct fit, so I don't think any of those will work. Have your bought any of those?
Not yet. Simply doing research as @ 20k miles, not experiencing any screech or belt fraying - just some tension change (but still in-between the notches). Call me paranoid, but I figured I'd try a Gates or Dayco belt before the OEM belt stretches more, and then monitor how much stretch occurs over the next 20k miles with a non-OEM belt. If it lasts longer - winner, winner, chicken dinner.

I already bought a tensioner tool for the job. It's a long, skinny/flat bar that allows you to unload the tensioner with one hand, while removing/installing the belts on the pulleys. Used it already on my '15 Allroad with success - I'm assuming the same tight constraints will apply for the VR30DDTT.

https://www.eastwood.com/fairmount-tools-serpentine-belt-tool.html

 
  • Like
Reactions: Pillboy and jodedor

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
None of those say direct fit, so I don't think any of those will work. Have your bought any of those?
Not yet. Simply doing research as @ 20k miles, not experiencing any screech or belt fraying - just some tension change (but still in-between the notches). Call me paranoid, but I figured I'd try a Gates or Dayco belt before the OEM belt stretches more, and then monitor how much stretch occurs over the next 20k miles with a non-OEM belt. If it lasts longer - winner, winner, chicken dinner.

I already bought a tensioner tool for the job. It's a long, skinny/flat bar that allows you to unload the tensioner with one hand, while removing/installing the belts on the pulleys. Used it already on my '15 Allroad with success - I'm assuming the same tight constraints will apply for the VR30DDTT.

https://www.eastwood.com/fairmount-tools-serpentine-belt-tool.html

I had a similar thought about changing it sooner rather than later just in case. Haven't used 1 of those tools before as a regular ratchet or breaker bar has worked for me but we'll see what kind of space were working with. Also planning on plugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
I've got one of those, but there's enough room to get it with a ratchet.

The belts getting thrown have to do with alignment. I don't think stretch is a factor, but I'd always prefer a belt that was .1 short than .1 long. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigHeadClan

·
Premium Member
2018 Q50 Red Sport 400 AWD
Joined
·
6,541 Posts
I've got one of those, but there's enough room to get it with a ratchet.

The belts getting thrown have to do with alignment. I don't think stretch is a factor, but I'd always prefer a belt that was .1 short than .1 long. :)
Yep, better too tight than too loose.

Ummm...what are we talking about?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Belt and spark plugs are done....how is it that the plugs we're easier than the belt!!!??? Also, I'm not entirely convinced that the issue with this whole belt deal is less about the AC alignment and more about the tensioner and belt routing. Several of the pulleys have lousy belt wrap and the tensioner is BY FAR the hardest to turn I've ever seen. Typically a 3/8 ratchet with a little turn loosens it. All I could get in there was a 3/8 ratchet and it was a BEAR to crank enough to get the Allen key in the lock mechanism. Plugs all day over a belt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,546 Posts
Belt and spark plugs are done....how is it that the plugs we're easier than the belt!!!??? Also, I'm not entirely convinced that the issue with this whole belt deal is less about the AC alignment and more about the tensioner and belt routing. Several of the pulleys have lousy belt wrap and the tensioner is BY FAR the hardest to turn I've ever seen. Typically a 3/8 ratchet with a little turn loosens it. All I could get in there was a 3/8 ratchet and it was a BEAR to crank enough to get the Allen key in the lock mechanism. Plugs all day over a belt.
Hah well in fairness the VQ37 is the exact same way, spark plugs are super easy but I really don't look forward to doing my belt. Thanks for the status update though, I kind of suspected it would be the pulley's
or tensioners themselves. The belt being the issue seems far to simple a fix that could happen very quickly on the factory side.

With that said we shall see if this newer belt is more durable and less prone to slipping.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,958 Posts
Typically a 3/8 ratchet with a little turn loosens it. All I could get in there was a 3/8 ratchet and it was a BEAR to crank enough to get the Allen key in the lock mechanism.
Beside the Intake/Radiator Shroud, did you remove/loosen anything else to get access to the tensioner?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Typically a 3/8 ratchet with a little turn loosens it. All I could get in there was a 3/8 ratchet and it was a BEAR to crank enough to get the Allen key in the lock mechanism.
Beside the Intake/Radiator Shroud, did you remove/loosen anything else to get access to the tensioner?
I didn't remove the intake radiator shroud at all, only the engine cover....but you do the whole deal from underneath anyways. You remove the large plastic underbody tray. Then the only other thing I touch is there is a rubber coolant hose that is cable tied to the fans. You really need to cut this cable tie to get good access to get the ratchet on the tensioner. Nothing else required moving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I just replaced mine, here are the details
Tools
Jack and Jack stands
10mm socket
serpentine belt tool i rented from O'reillys.
Random allen key to lock tensioner.

I tried to take the belt off from the top but I had to resort to jacking the car up (only the passenger front side) and taking the belt off from underneath. Make sure you jack the side up high, I had to go back and jack mine up some more because the 1st time i tried to use the tool, it grounded out. I notice some people had problems using a normal 3/8 rachet so I just went straight for the tool and it was a breeze releasing the tension and installing the allen to lock the tensioner. The real problem was getting my hands between the block and the radiator to line up the belt. I scraped and wailed the life out of my arms, so much so i was surprised I wasn't bleeding when i finished the job. The job itself is easy just time consuming, jacking up, removing tray, climbing under, un-sticking your arm then climbing above aligning, un-sticking your arm rubbing the bruises, and repeating over and over before getting it right.

Truly if there was an inch more space at the front of the engine and no plastic tray below, the job would take 5-7 minutes. So go brave.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
586 Posts
After someone on here posted a random gates part number but no info about the stock 3.0t belt, i contacted gates and was sent to this page:
http://navigates.gates.com/AddedValue.aspx?PartNumber=K060766A

Now that we actually have belt specs, we can find a replacement that doesn't require going to the dealer.
Material EDPM, Aramid Cord
OE Comparison Rating OE Exact
Section K
Number of Ribs 6
Top Width (in) .807
Top Width (mm) 20
Outside Circumference (in) 77.25
Outside Circumference (mm) 1962

I did a search through Dayco to find something close and came up with:
5060770

Rib Profile W Profile
Metric Part 6PK1955
Effective Length (in) 77.10
Top Width (in) 0.82
Thickness 0.17
No. of Ribs 6
Rib Depth Standard
Compound EPDM, Aramid Reinforced
Backside Material Rubber

It's about a tenth of an inch shorter and wider. I'm wondering if this will help keep the belt in place since they have a greater tendency to get thrown when they wear and stretch in length. Also, the cost is about $16 and available from many vendors. Thoughts?
Bringing back dead thread
Have you tried the Dayco part number: 5060770 ?

As far as I know from just quick google searching

Gates: K060766A

OEM: 11720-5CA0A

Revised/New OEM Part#: 11720-5CA0B
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,895 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ever since I swapped my belt to a new one I haven't had any chirping or issues.
 
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top