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Hey guys, I've had my Q50 3.7 AWD for a coup[le months now, and my end goal is making it one of the fastest ones out there without adding turbos and supercharges, etc. I'm looking for the safer option seeing as my engine only has 43K miles. I've got a muffler delete and that's it. I plan to get cold air intakes wheels brakes, possibly a cat delete, and whatever else to slowly increase performance, then I will go for a one-time tune. With the tune I'm looking for something I've seen on this forum somewhere, the guy had a pop tune, flame tune, speed tune, and fuel economy tune all in one, that is the goal for my Q50. Thanks yall!
 

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First and foremost, welcome!

For a NA build, an intake plenum and headers (preferably long tube, and most importantly of equal length) will be the best bang for your bolt-on buck. After that it’s pretty much head work and block work that’s going to gain you the most (aside from dyno tuning). You may want to make friends with a good tuner or learn how to street tune. You’re gonna want to revise your map after every major part change if you’re doing this in stages. Not trying to be invasive, but what kind of budget are you realistically working with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First and foremost, welcome!

For a NA build, an intake plenum and headers (preferably long tube, and most importantly of equal length) will be the best bang for your bolt-on buck. After that it’s pretty much head work and block work that’s going to gain you the most (aside from dyno tuning). You may want to make friends with a good tuner or learn how to street tune. You’re gonna want to revise your map after every major part change if you’re doing this in stages. Not trying to be invasive, but what kind of budget are you realistically working with?
Honestly I’m not to sure budget wise. Thanks for all of the advice, I was thinking about long tuber headers but I already have the muffler delete, and I don’t want my Q50 to be super raspy. When is comes to dyno and tuning and buying parts to tune with it each time, I want to work in stages, but don’t want to constantly tune it and lose money in the process, if that makes sense 😬😂. So honestly budget, probably 3K but that’s all over time, not in one go. I’m just trying to plan ahead at this point, I’m in no rush, at the moment.
 

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my end goal is making it one of the fastest ones out there without adding turbos and supercharges, etc.
So honestly budget, probably 3K but that’s all over time, not in one go.
These two sentences are not a possibility together.

Catless DP nets about 12whp
Catless DP + z1/dc style header about 16whp
Longtube about 20whp
Good catback about 5whp
CAI about 5-8whp
Ported Upper/lower about 5-8whp
E85 about 5-8whp
Tune depending on mods upwards of about 20-25whp.

330-340whp is about the limits of FBO + tune.
Catless DP + tune nets about 60% of max NA bolt on potential but at a fraction of the cost compared to squeezing out that remaining 40%.

FBO NA is cool but if you ever want any meaningful gains and to be one of the fastest you need FI, FI + a tune at a conservative 400whp really isn’t much more cost than a FBO build and at only 45k miles a 400whp FI build should still be incredibly reliable, with a ton of potential for more power.
 
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Could also bore and stroke, and balance and blue print. Don’t forget cams either. I mean, if you have the money, you can build a beast of an NA. But like @17awdQ50P said, you’re not gonna be anywhere near the fastest NA on $3,000. I’d say get a plenum and headers and go from there. As far as rasp in the exhaust goes, add resonators and it’ll cut rasp and drone, and they’re cheap.
 

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Weight reduction is your best bet if your short $ wise. You need to add another digit to your budget if you want to claim a quickest/fastest NA anything.
 

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Remember that adding heavy bling rims will slow down your ride
slow it down by a negligible amount, unless your adding 50lbs cinder blocks to every wheel. rotational mass in the wheel or in general really isn't that meaningful.


Wheels, the multiplier is closer to 1.6 vs non rotation mass.

Extra 10lbs per wheel or 40lbs total would be equivalent to 64lbs of non rotation mass.
adding/subtracting 10lbs per wheel is on the extreme side, although not uncommon.

on a 4,000lbs car reducing 64lbs (40lbs rotation from wheel) is 1.6% weight reduction

4000 lbs car at 400whp has power to weight of 1whp to 10lbs
if you reduced weight to 3936 lbs makes power to weight 1whp to 9.84lbs
which would be equivalent to a 4000lbs car making 406.4whp or 1whp to 9.84lbs

so in other words 40lbs of rotation mass lost from wheels on a 400whp / 4000lbs car is equal to 6.4whp or 1.6% whp increase

People will spend a small fortune on wheels spending easily over $1k+ more on a "light weight" wheel vs a very comparable but still quality wheel, just to save an extra 3-5lbs per wheel vs the comparable wheel or equivalent of about 2-3whp for $1k+ more, but then turn around and talk sh*t about a $450 CAI only adding 2-3whp and not being worth it.
 
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That's an old adage put into layman's terms that is generally true enough though. but can be highly varied depending on the starting weight of the vehicle, the weight distribution of the vehicle, the new weight distribution of the vehicle after weight loss, power of the vehicle, traction/grip of the vehicle, and what ET the vehicle is putting down before weight loss. The end number of how much time is taken off the ET in the 1/4 will vary greatly, typically in the range of 0.05 - 0.13 seconds off of the 1/4 mile ET per 100lbs. So 100lbs for a 1/10 is close enough for a layman. but aside from stripping the interior the cost of meaningful weight loss adds up quick.

Another old track adage is 10whp is a 1/10th off 1/4 mile ET, based on the numbers in my previous post 100lbs would also equate out to be the equivalent to 10whp, which is usually far cheaper and easier to get if you aren't stripping the interior.

For a max effort track car every little bit counts for sure. but for a luxurious sporty daily sedan that happens to have decent straight-line performance, I wouldn't get too caught up in weight reduction, especially if it costs a small fortune or at least not if you have lower hanging fruit you could pick first.
 

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law of diminishing returns take into effect. The faster you go the harder it is to go faster, which requires either less weight or more power. Getting another 10whp or another 100lbs removed is exponentially more difficult on a 9 second car vs. a 13 second car.
 
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