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I've found old threads where people said they used the same adapter types but required the NAVIKS bypass module and plugging into the phone directly.
Yup - one of those threads could have been what I put together a few years back - way too many wires and having my iPhone connected to that cable mess (with the landscape issue) made it not practical when driving. Now the ability to double click my rear defrost button to make my car think it is parked is nice, but I can't recall the last time I even used that. If you have a new way (found a better Aux/RCA phone mirroring adapter that tucks into the center console... well then... Mega Kudos!)

IMG_0791.MOV
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yup - one of those threads could have been what I put together a few years back - way too many wires and having my iPhone connected to that cable mess (with the landscape issue) made it not practical when driving. Now the ability to double click my rear defrost button to make my car think it is parked is nice, but I can't recall the last time I even used that. If you have a new way (found a better Aux/RCA phone mirroring adapter that tucks into the center console... well then... Mega Kudos!)

IMG_0791.MOV
Your vid is basically what I was able to get to work yesterday. No NAVIK harness and nothing plugged into the phone. Single switch has to be added to a single wire under the dash, I didn't have to disconnect/remove anything.
 

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I think several have voiced in the past they're not really comfortable with tearing out the dash and disassembling the top screen to install the additional circuit card. I went through THREE MK2 Tesla screens and finally said forget it and went back to stock because it just wasn't stable enough and had quality issues. Like I said, its not a silver bullet and there are limitations, but if you just want to get your phone apps up on a screen, this works and its cheap and wireless.
I get it, I used to be afraid of doing that also. Once I did it, I realized it wasn't a big deal. Adding the circuit board to the top screen was a little scary, but seeing how cheap they were on ebay I decided to give it a shot. It was actually your posts on the Tesla units that talked me out of buying those.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
UPDATE- FOILED BY INFINITI!!!! In addition to the parking brake, its got a speed input. That must be why that post I linked on the 1st page was done. Everything's cool until about 5 mph, then it cuts video because you're "in motion". Looks like I'll be trying that display unit wire mod instead and report back.
 

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Sigh...I knew it was too good to be true. I was wondering how you would get around the vehicle speed signal coming from the combination meter to the pin #31 input of the DCU. That's where the SPST switch needs to be inserted. I need to think about what else is affected by temporarily disabling the speed input.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I plan on putting that switch at pin 31 and see how it reacts. Supposedly removing it from the top screen only allows the rest of the uses for speed (e.g. GPS) to function properly, it just bypasses the lockout. Even if you did lose GPS speed, thats 1 of the main points of doing this, so you can use Google Maps or Waze instead. It is unfortunate though as the mod is more invasive. Still easier than tearing apart the top screen to me. I've watched the install video and feel like the cost for what you're getting and having to do all the work is excessive.
 

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GPS will generate its own speed independent from the combination meter. I wonder if you'll get a DTC if that speed signal is interrupted by the switch?
 

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Sigh...I knew it was too good to be true. I was wondering how you would get around the vehicle speed signal coming from the combination meter to the pin #31 input of the DCU. That's where the SPST switch needs to be inserted. I need to think about what else is affected by temporarily disabling the speed input.
Abs
Vdc
Emergency braking
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Abs
Vdc
Emergency braking
Im not positive of this. You are not interrupting the speed signal to anything other than the display itself. If you were opening the connection at the combination meter it would be a different story.
 

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The Combination Meter receives the vehicle speed signal from the ABS actuator and electric control unit via the CAN bus. The Combination Meter transmits the vehicle speed signal to the DCU. The DCU is also connected to the CAN bus so could the vehicle speed signal make its way to the DCU from the ABS actuator and electric control unit that way also? Hopefully its just the pin #31 input that needs a switch. I don't really know for sure. I've stared at the wiring diagrams enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The Combination Meter receives the vehicle speed signal from the ABS actuator and electric control unit via the CAN bus. The Combination Meter transmits the vehicle speed signal to the DCU. The DCU is also connected to the CAN bus so could the vehicle speed signal make its way to the DCU from the ABS actuator and electric control unit that way also? Hopefully its just the pin #31 input that needs a switch. I don't really know for sure. I've stared at the wiring diagrams enough.
I've been pouring over the same AV PDF file lol. I agree we won't know until I try. It should be pretty obviously once I throw "the switch" as to whether or not it works.
 

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I've been pouring over the same AV PDF file lol. I agree we won't know until I try. It should be pretty obviously once I throw "the switch" as to whether or not it works.
I'm very curious about this. If you get this operational, please do a detailed writeup.
 

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Just to wet some appetites.....I just walked back inside from my driveway where I had my phone mirrored to the top screen, showing JB4 gauges, Google Maps, etc. The car was in drive and rolling......MORE TO COME! ;) Total cost was ~$50.
Keep me posted definitely interested and will this be compatible with 2014
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Unfortunately I had to update the title of the thread.....Even with cutting pin 31 of the display unit for speed signal, once you're moving the system still looks for the parking brake signal. Obviously my original mod would still fake out this signal, but the system detects that you're moving AND the parking brake is pressed and starts beeping at you with and lights up the dash asking you to release the parking brake. The system simply has too many nannies. It does make me wonder how the NAVIK bypass unit actually is able to fake out the system. It must interface/bypass at a different location. Does anyone know where the bypass unit is actually installed between?
 

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It seems you've verified my suspicion about the CAN bus carrying the vehicle speed to the DCU. Good luck sorting that out.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I'm not completely convinced of that because it was only complaining about the parking brake after pin 31 was cut. It would be useful if someone had the NAVIK install instructions. I think they only give them when you buy a kit.
 
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