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Turbo failure...maybe??

1163 Views 18 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Mxracer6y
Hi Folks,

In the midst of changing all the fluids on my car yesterday (both diffs, xfer case, transmission) I decided to peak down into the air intake ducts.

Bad news. I see oil in the RH passenger side air duct at the bottom where the bellow is. It's not a lot, but it's enough to appear a little bit damp. The LH side is bone dry for comparison.

To add to this issue, the last time I changed air filters about 15,000 miles back, I didn't realize but the previous air filter gasket had gotten pinched with a kink. I'm in dusty, disgusting northeast AZ with lots of blowing dust and sand so there was definitely some dirt that had gotten into the intake duct.

So what I'm seeing is a little bit of congealed dirt and oil at the bottom of the bellow. Not puddled, but definitely "wet" appearing.

As far as any issues - none. No noises, no exhaust smoke, good fuel economy and good power. I get a real frequent failsafe mode where it limits power under 3000rpm (topic for another thread maybe) that clears as soon as I turn the car off and back on again. Otherwise, no odd noises or power loss. I don't hear turbos whistling or whining. OCI has been 5-6K miles with good oil analysis reports. I've extended OCI to about 9K miles a few times and oil level has never dropped - not using oil.

How effed am I? To beat it all, I'm at 71K miles, so bye bye warranty.

Thanks,
Travis
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Hi Folks,

In the midst of changing all the fluids on my car yesterday (both diffs, xfer case, transmission) I decided to peak down into the air intake ducts.

Bad news. I see oil in the RH passenger side air duct at the bottom where the bellow is. It's not a lot, but it's enough to appear a little bit damp. The LH side is bone dry for comparison.

To add to this issue, the last time I changed air filters about 15,000 miles back, I didn't realize but the previous air filter gasket had gotten pinched with a kink. I'm in dusty, disgusting northeast AZ with lots of blowing dust and sand so there was definitely some dirt that had gotten into the intake duct.

So what I'm seeing is a little bit of congealed dirt and oil at the bottom of the bellow. Not puddled, but definitely "wet" appearing.

As far as any issues - none. No noises, no exhaust smoke, good fuel economy and good power. I get a real frequent failsafe mode where it limits power under 3000rpm (topic for another thread maybe) that clears as soon as I turn the car off and back on again. Otherwise, no odd noises or power loss. I don't hear turbos whistling or whining. OCI has been 5-6K miles with good oil analysis reports. I've extended OCI to about 9K miles a few times and oil level has never dropped - not using oil.

How effed am I? To beat it all, I'm at 71K miles, so bye bye warranty.

Thanks,
Travis
I suspect the small amount of oil you are seeing in the passenger side air duct (#13) is coming from the passenger side rocker cover vent line (C) in the diagram below:

Product Font Parallel Auto part Diagram


The passenger side blow-by hose (#4) in this diagram below shows where "C" in the previous diagram is connected to the rocker cover:

Organism Font Parallel Art Slope


I don't think it's anything to be concerned about.

As far as your limp mode issue, if you have an OBDII scanner and this happens again, you might try scanning the car for DTCs before turning off the ignition. Temporary DTCs will typically clear on ignition cycling.
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^This. The oil accumulation in the passenger side intake boot is indeed coming from the blow-by hose from the passenger side valve cover.
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I suspect the small amount of oil you are seeing in the passenger side air duct (#13) is coming from the passenger side rocker cover vent line (C) in the diagram below:

View attachment 115065

The passenger side blow-by hose (#4) in this diagram below shows where "C" in the previous diagram is connected to the rocker cover:

View attachment 115066

I don't think it's anything to be concerned about.

As far as your limp mode issue, if you have an OBDII scanner and this happens again, you might try scanning the car for DTCs before turning off the ignition. Temporary DTCs will typically clear on ignition cycling.
Jeez this makes me feel so much better! It seems a little strange they would pipe the PCV blow-by into only one intake. Seems like that would contribute to a lot more valve buildup on the RH side.

I've read several messages about these transient failsafe modes and checking the codes before shutting the car off, as the codes clear with restarting (possibly posted by you :) ). Mine has this horrendous loss of power and (using manual mode to force a higher gear), with accelerator to the floor, it has ZERO power until around 2800rpm when I can feel turbos spooling and by 3000rpm it takes off like a rocket with what seems like full boost. Driving in heavy traffic gets really chaotic with having NO power or ALL the power when passing. I'm gonna post another thread later about it. Your input will be greatly appreciated.

^This. The oil accumulation in the passenger side intake boot is indeed coming from the blow-by hose from the passenger side valve cover.
Again - y'all sure know how to make a guy feel better! I had a few hours to stress about this. I REALLY don't wanna fork over $7K for a turbo replacement and it has truly been a super great vehicle. I want to keep for a very very long time! It generally lives a pretty easy life on the highway at 75mph 98% of it's life with occasional WOT passing on these desolate 2-lane roads here.

I think I'm seeing a little more oil accumulation too because there is a small amount of dirt in the intake hose from the mentioned leaky air filter and we all know how much dirt and oil love each other.

How much of a pain is it to remove that intake bellow just so I can clean it out thoroughly? That engine bay is TIGHT!

Y'ALL ROCK!!
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The fix to prevent any more build up would be a catch can. Reasonably cheap and easy install.
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The fix to prevent any more build up would be a catch can. Reasonably cheap and easy install.
Thank you for bringing that up.

I can search around on the forum. But any recommendations for which catch can is the best?
The fix to prevent any more build up would be a catch can. Reasonably cheap and easy install.
I was thinkin' it...wanted to suggest it....but I'm usually wrong...proven over and over here, regularly. 😁
I went with Mishimoto. BMS also makes a good catch can. Avoid the carbon fiber ones. Stick to the ones that are made of metal
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I was thinkin' it...wanted to suggest it....but I'm usually wrong...proven over and over here, regularly. 😁
We’re all still learning, don’t worry about it
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Jeez this makes me feel so much better! It seems a little strange they would pipe the PCV blow-by into only one intake. Seems like that would contribute to a lot more valve buildup on the RH side.

I've read several messages about these transient failsafe modes and checking the codes before shutting the car off, as the codes clear with restarting (possibly posted by you :) ). Mine has this horrendous loss of power and (using manual mode to force a higher gear), with accelerator to the floor, it has ZERO power until around 2800rpm when I can feel turbos spooling and by 3000rpm it takes off like a rocket with what seems like full boost. Driving in heavy traffic gets really chaotic with having NO power or ALL the power when passing. I'm gonna post another thread later about it. Your input will be greatly appreciated.



Again - y'all sure know how to make a guy feel better! I had a few hours to stress about this. I REALLY don't wanna fork over $7K for a turbo replacement and it has truly been a super great vehicle. I want to keep for a very very long time! It generally lives a pretty easy life on the highway at 75mph 98% of it's life with occasional WOT passing on these desolate 2-lane roads here.

I think I'm seeing a little more oil accumulation too because there is a small amount of dirt in the intake hose from the mentioned leaky air filter and we all know how much dirt and oil love each other.

How much of a pain is it to remove that intake bellow just so I can clean it out thoroughly? That engine bay is TIGHT!

Y'ALL ROCK!!
In the second diagram above, the PCV valve (#13) comes off the driver's side rocker cover and into the manifold collector. That's where blow-by gases go under low-middle load conditions with fresh air coming into the crankcase via the blow-by vents from the air ducts. Under high load conditions, gases vent out the blow-by vents in the rocker covers in addition to the PCV valve. The blow-by vents are shown in the diagram below:

Font Art Parallel Pattern Symmetry


According to this diagram, both blow-by lines go to both inlet air ducts, yet the first diagram above shows only the passenger side inlet air duct having a blow-by line connected to it. I see nothing on the driver's side inlet air duct. The second diagram shows the driver's side blow-by line off the rocker cover going to the driver's side turbocharger. I'm assuming it connects to the air inlet to the turbocharger past the inlet air duct.
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I went with the Z1 catch can because I liked that theirs had molded hoses. I didn't like how the ADDW1 model just had hoses that went all willy-nilly. But I'm sure you could just zip tie them to other hoses to make the install cleaner. But I think all the big name ones are pretty comparable.
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Thank you for bringing that up.

I can search around on the forum. But any recommendations for which catch can is the best?
I don't think there is a BEST catch can really, more so whichever one is built better quality but a catch can is a catch can. Wasnt there a few failure stories on the ADDW1 ones? Buy whatever one fits your budget
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I don't think there is a BEST catch can really, more so whichever one is built better quality but a catch can is a catch can. Wasnt there a few failure stories on the ADDW1 ones? Buy whatever one fits your budget
Not sure if it was ADDW1 but the carbon fiber body OCCs have been known to come unglued from the metal end cap after exposure to heat cycling and fall apart in the engine bay, dumping oil on the engine. I'd recommend an all-metal body for an OCC if you want to install one.
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Just to clarify, most of the OCCs will only install within the PCV line. The blow-by lines as Avedis pointed out above remain unchanged. I believe there is one OCC on the market that does install into the blow-by lines as well as the PCV line, but I don't really see the point.
Not sure if it was ADDW1 but the carbon fiber body OCCs have been known to come unglued from the metal end cap after exposure to heat cycling and fall apart in the engine bay, dumping oil on the engine. I'd recommend an all-metal body for an OCC if you want to install one.
Yes thats it. Thanks for jogging my memory banks!! All the drugs didnt mess up my memory!
AOS...if someone made it, I would get it.
Just to clarify, most of the OCCs will only install within the PCV line. The blow-by lines as Avedis pointed out above remain unchanged. I believe there is one OCC on the market that does install into the blow-by lines as well as the PCV line, but I don't really see the point.
Why don't you see the point? I installed intakes today and im seeing oil / residue there. Why don't you think its worth it?

AOS...if someone made it, I would get it.

add w1 makes one.. the 3.3
Why don't you see the point? I installed intakes today and im seeing oil / residue there. Why don't you think its worth it?
I don't see the point of having a catch can "catch" the blow by lines in addition to the PCV line. I think a catch can installed into the PCV blow by line does the job.
I don't see the point of having a catch can "catch" the blow by lines in addition to the PCV line. I think a catch can installed into the PCV blow by line does the job.
It apparently doesn't because i have a mishimoto and it doesn't appear to be fully taking care of the issue. I guess most of it could be old from before the catch can was installed, but i did see a spot that looked fresh
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