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What Avedis53 said.
LDP's GOOD CBE & later a JB4 (excellent resale value) especially if leased. An EcuTec tune is ok if you own it. A bit more difficult to resell as you need to return the ECU to stock as it's locked to your ECU or Vin # with a tuned map loaded in the ECU. Or at least that's my understanding.

A good exhaust "system" is the foundation of all your power mods. The one thing to not cheap out on.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
A LDP won't typically result in a DTC. I believe the problem you are referring to was an issue with a few older LDPs but I don't think anyone here has experienced that recently.

IMHO, don't bother with an axle-back. All they do is make noise. If you're interested in a tune, you're just going to end up removing the axle-back and going with a CBE in order to get the most out of your tune. A pair of LDPs and a good CBE will be the cornerstone for any future upgrades regarding power. A JB4 would be cheaper than a tune to add with the exhaust upgrade. It would likely get you to the numbers you posted or at least pretty close with 93 octane fuel.

Besides, you can easily sell the JB4 here for most of what you'd have in it as there is a good market for used JB4s, especially because people in CA can't order from BMS. You'd have about half the money for a tune when you sell it.

Personally, I'd start with the exhaust. It won't affect your warranty. A CBE will make a noticeable difference in perceived power. Adding a LDP will add even more as you are removing the most restrictive part of the exhaust. The OEM LDP has the secondary cat in it and reduces down to 1 1/2". A 2.5" or 3" LDP really opens the exhaust up. Some go with a full downpipe replacement but that will eliminate your primary cats unless you buy a catted full downpipe. Depending on what environmental compliance testing you may have to register your car, that would require a catted full downpipe and those are expensive.

Take time in between mods and get a feel for what you've done and then decide what the next step should be. You may find that you're satisfied with what a CBE and LDPs do to improve the performance and be satisfied with that. You may become intoxicated with it (like most of us) and keep modifying the car for more power. What you don't want to do is to have to backtrack to remove parts that don't eventually fit in to your ultimate goal.

There is a great deal of knowledge here for you to draw upon as many of us have been down the road you're on now. It's like the old saying "Measure twice, cut once". Make sure you have a clear idea of your goal and determine the logical progression of steps to achieve it.

It's strictly a function of money! ;)
Thanks so much! everyone - but I appreciate this post!
I suspected that the axle - back might not tie into what is best in the end. I've thought about going to a muffler shop and maybe have them custom pipe me something - which might be a little cheaper than a CBE ordered - but maybe just not as pretty. It looks like the Invidia is the cheapest CBE that has good reviews/feedback - which is about 900 still. I wonder how much a custom mandrel-bent non-stainless steel setup might run and long as I found some good mufflers with the right tips and still have resonation.
The AMS LDP I was under the impression would throw a code but if not and I can drive on them casually before tune - I could do those sooner. I have seen Z1 UDP/AMS LDP to accomplish a full - but need to research that more to understand it better.
The pain point is the Heat exchanger - and then a full CBE... everything else is a little easier to digest - aside from the fact that I need rear brakes and I want to get upgraded rotors since I have wheels and think it would look a bit better...
I'll look more into exhaust setups people with premium 3.0s are using and see what options I have.... Appreciate all the info...
 

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Thanks so much! everyone - but I appreciate this post!
I suspected that the axle - back might not tie into what is best in the end. I've thought about going to a muffler shop and maybe have them custom pipe me something - which might be a little cheaper than a CBE ordered - but maybe just not as pretty. It looks like the Invidia is the cheapest CBE that has good reviews/feedback - which is about 900 still. I wonder how much a custom mandrel-bent non-stainless steel setup might run and long as I found some good mufflers with the right tips and still have resonation.
The AMS LDP I was under the impression would throw a code but if not and I can drive on them casually before tune - I could do those sooner. I have seen Z1 UDP/AMS LDP to accomplish a full - but need to research that more to understand it better.
The pain point is the Heat exchanger - and then a full CBE... everything else is a little easier to digest - aside from the fact that I need rear brakes and I want to get upgraded rotors since I have wheels and think it would look a bit better...
I'll look more into exhaust setups people with premium 3.0s are using and see what options I have.... Appreciate all the info...
Personally, I have never understood the reason to go with 3" LDPs (i.e., AMS) if the CB is going to be 2.5". I recommend 2.5" LDPs if you are going with a 2.5" CB. My opinion.

The Invidia CB seems like a great exhaust for the money.
 
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Fast Intentions (FI) fanboy here. I'd recommend FI LDPs & CBE for the quality, sound, and performance. FI gives you many options - 10" or 14" mufflers, tip finish, resonated or non-resonated, even a CF option for their 14" muffler (only).

For perspective, I happened to take a pic of my FI CBE that I removed this week to install my Inland Empire driveshaft. This CBE has been installed in my '17 Q60S AWD since February 2017. Up here in the PNW, we don't use salt on our roads, as Western WA (non-mountain areas) does not experience extended snow events.

I think the 304 SS that FI uses is holding up well, just some burnishing of the SS due to heat cycling/exhaust temps.
94421
 
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Other than the heat discoloration, that piping looks new.
 
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Discussion Starter #26
Other than the heat discoloration, that piping looks new.
Agreed it looks new! - I see a lot of people who use FI - but I'm seeing entry points of $1200 - Which if at that point I think the HKS is a considerable option also IIRC....
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Personally, I have never understood the reason to go with 3" LDPs (i.e., AMS) if the CB is going to be 2.5". I recommend 2.5" LDPs if you are going with a 2.5" CB. My opinion.

The Invidia CB seems like a great exhaust for the money.
I'm going to do as much AMS as I can for warranty reasons.... best odds of the dealer staying off my case about parts since they are Inifiniti Motorsports (mostly) - again... loosely stated - Best odds... lol
 

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I'm going to do as much AMS as I can for warranty reasons.... best odds of the dealer staying off my case about parts since they are Inifiniti Motorsports (mostly) - again... loosely stated - Best odds... lol
Ok. Understood for the AMS intakes and heat exchanger. Those are part of Infiniti's catalogue. But I can tell you, no dealer is going to condone the removal of secondary cats. With that said, I don't think any dealer would void your warranty for removing secondary cats - no matter which brand of LDPs you go with. But it is your choice. Good luck. Have fun!
 
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How does he keep the underside of his car SOOOOOooo clean?
I try to wash my car once a week (pre-Covid), although no direct cleaning of the underside except the wheels wells. No road salt in the PNW. I drive in all seasons, although when we do get occasional snow, we'll take our Audi Allroad (Quattro). For the Allroad, I have dedicated 18" wheels & Blizzaks LM-22s, because no salt and tall firs (casting shadows on the road) means more black ice. It also doesn't hurt that the Allroad has 7" of ground clearance.
 

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I also use Krown rustproofing 2x a year. A heaver than water very thin "oil". Clear but dust does sorta stick to it. Makes nuts n bolts easier to take apart due to the corrosion prevention and lubricity. However is not pretty. I do spend more time rinsing the under side of my car in the carwash except in the summer.
 

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Ok. Understood for the AMS intakes and heat exchanger. Those are part of Infiniti's catalogue. But I can tell you, no dealer is going to condone the removal of secondary cats. With that said, I don't think any dealer would void your warranty for removing secondary cats - no matter which brand of LDPs you go with. But it is your choice. Good luck. Have fun!
That's because it is illegal to remove cats from a car that is driven on public highways. My local dealer would not swap my LDPs because of that. I had no problem finding an independent shop who would do the job though.
 

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I also use Krown rustproofing 2x a year. A heaver than water very thin "oil". Clear but dust does sorta stick to it. Makes nuts n bolts easier to take apart due to the corrosion prevention and lubricity. However is not pretty. I do spend more time rinsing the under side of my car in the carwash except in the summer.
Hah not a bad plan, I always skipped out on that service because I park indoors and it's typically too cold for Salt where I live so the city uses gravel instead.
But considering I'm going to be spending a fair bit of my weekend coating the underside of my G37 with rust-converter so I can paint and seal stuff
it may not be a bad investment the next time around.
 

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Krown is big in Canada. I used to drive 5 hrs to the dealer in Cornwall to get my truck done.. the Canadian military uses it. If your Krown rustproofing card is up to date it adds value to your car on trade in or resale.

Luckily they now have a NH location. After my build I'm heading up to get it done. You do it 2x a year. Well worth it. IMHO if you live where there is a winter, or near the ocean.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Ok. Understood for the AMS intakes and heat exchanger. Those are part of Infiniti's catalogue. But I can tell you, no dealer is going to condone the removal of secondary cats. With that said, I don't think any dealer would void your warranty for removing secondary cats - no matter which brand of LDPs you go with. But it is your choice. Good luck. Have fun!
I know LDP will likely push the margin - but like I said just the best chances of a case - but I also know put it back to a point in which the true issue not as a result of can be addressed. I actually have found a few mod friendly dealers locally so I will just try and build good relationships. I really don't like the price of that AMS heat exchanger though! ugh!
 

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I know LDP will likely push the margin - but like I said just the best chances of a case - but I also know put it back to a point in which the true issue not as a result of can be addressed. I actually have found a few mod friendly dealers locally so I will just try and build good relationships. I really don't like the price of that AMS heat exchanger though! ugh!
I don't know where you live (not in your profile) but a HE just helps you only keep the power after repeated hard runs. If it's hot out they help you keep the power longer.

If its cool out no need unless you race repeatedly. HE makes NO POWER.

Just get a GOOD exhaust system and light rims. And drive with that.. save and see if you heat soak.. then pick a JB4 or HE.. get the JB4 in the fall.. save and then in the beginning of June get a HE..

The trick is to make a goal of how you want your car to end up.. then make a doable plan to get there.

Step by step and don't get stuff you don't need. Set your priorities. Looks or functionality.
 

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I don't know where you live (not in your profile) but a HE just helps you only keep the power after repeated hard runs. If it's hot out they help you keep the power longer.

If its cool out no need unless you race repeatedly. HE makes NO POWER.

Just get a GOOD exhaust system and light rims. And drive with that.. save and see if you heat soak.. then pick a JB4 or HE.. get the JB4 in the fall.. save and then in the beginning of June get a HE..

The trick is to make a goal of how you want your car to end up.. then make a doable plan to get there.

Step by step and don't get stuff you don't need. Set your priorities. Looks or functionality.
South Florida! LOL

Yes, I do agree, and I think I know most of what I want and think makes sense without going too far in " wants "... I'd like to be ready to tune by end of the year, but we will see how things go.
 

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Wait - so the HE doesnt help keep temps down to then enable to be able to make more powa? I know cool temps for turbo cars is where they come alive more, so I was under the impression the HE will help me to provide cooler temps to run stronger more often than not due to heat
 

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Yes, and no. In FL a HE makes sense. But it will still have charge air temps 20-30 degrees higher than the ambient air temperature. The way to really drop the charge air temp is to have your intercooler fluid cooled by the AC system. So it would be like winter all the time.

I saw a good YouTube video of a way to plumb the AC into the turbo intake heat exchangers.

Not sure if it was a "Killer chiller" or a dufferent better mousetrap. SOHO, Concept Z, Z1 or some other shops may know the best way to do it.

But an AMS HE will help a lot in maintaining the charge air temps from getting hot. When it's 90 even the AMS HE will heat soak fairly easily, unless you are moving over 40-50 MPH.

Runs light to light in traffic will heat soak and stay that way.

If it was me and I lived in FL l would research the best way to use your AC to cool your intake temp.

I think I may start looking into it myself IF my new turbos cause my charge air temps to get to high.

Remember your foot controls how much heat is made. More boost = more heat.

I wish I had saved the YouTube video of the system that works the best and is fairly easy to install.

Regardless a HE should be on your list.

Road tune will keep your temps down. Dyno tuning in the summer heat is problematic for sure. 4 fans and my temps went very high, and only very slowly went down.

Fans are no replacement for driving at 50 MPH on the road for cooling after each pull.

I don't like doing dyno pulls when it's hot and humid.. Tuning in those conditions is difficult too. So consider a remote tune and have open road not traffic so your car can cool down. You will get a better result.

My best mods in order were:
#1 Fast Intentions catted full downpipes and CBE
#2 Light rims and Z1 two piece brake rotors

That alone was such an improvement I almost considered not tuning it.

Next was AMS heat exchanger and HKS blowoff valves.. (in preparation to my EcuTec tune)

But just #1 & #2 were VERY good. It woke up my car and the weight loss of unsprung weight made it more nimble. It drove much better.

Reducing the unsprung weight is like stiffening your shock dampening/rebound since it reduces the mass to control.

After driving it like that see if you want to go more. If you get a JB4 you need the HE. (And or killer chiller kinda thing)

I'm rambling..Sorry. Hopefully this was some help. Research, research, research.
 
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I've been interested in the DEI CryO2 cooling system for years.

 
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