I totally appreciate this insight and it makes sense to me. I am trying to find a full CBE ( soon )Yes, and no. In FL a HE makes sense. But it will still have charge air temps 20-30 degrees higher than the ambient air temperature. The way to really drop the charge air temp is to have your intercooler fluid cooled by the AC system. So it would be like winter all the time.
I saw a good YouTube video of a way to plumb the AC into the turbo intake heat exchangers.
Not sure if it was a "Killer chiller" or a dufferent better mousetrap. SOHO, Concept Z, Z1 or some other shops may know the best way to do it.
But an AMS HE will help a lot in maintaining the charge air temps from getting hot. When it's 90 even the AMS HE will heat soak fairly easily, unless you are moving over 40-50 MPH.
Runs light to light in traffic will heat soak and stay that way.
If it was me and I lived in FL l would research the best way to use your AC to cool your intake temp.
I think I may start looking into it myself IF my new turbos cause my charge air temps to get to high.
Remember your foot controls how much heat is made. More boost = more heat.
I wish I had saved the YouTube video of the system that works the best and is fairly easy to install.
Regardless a HE should be on your list.
Road tune will keep your temps down. Dyno tuning in the summer heat is problematic for sure. 4 fans and my temps went very high, and only very slowly went down.
Fans are no replacement for driving at 50 MPH on the road for cooling after each pull.
I don't like doing dyno pulls when it's hot and humid.. Tuning in those conditions is difficult too. So consider a remote tune and have open road not traffic so your car can cool down. You will get a better result.
My best mods in order were:
#1 Fast Intentions catted full downpipes and CBE
#2 Light rims and Z1 two piece brake rotors
That alone was such an improvement I almost considered not tuning it.
Next was AMS heat exchanger and HKS blowoff valves.. (in preparation to my EcuTec tune)
But just #1 & #2 were VERY good. It woke up my car and the weight loss of unsprung weight made it more nimble. It drove much better.
Reducing the unsprung weight is like stiffening your shock dampening/rebound since it reduces the mass to control.
After driving it like that see if you want to go more. If you get a JB4 you need the HE. (And or killer chiller kinda thing)
I'm rambling..Sorry. Hopefully this was some help. Research, research, research.
I am on lighter but bigger wheels - so the car is much smoother but they are bigger wheels at the end of the day still but I like how it rides significantly more. I am actually in need of rotors in the rears - and since I have aftermarket wheels I'd like something to make it all look together but premium trim doesn't have many options for slotted or drilled rotors or I have yet to find any and/or good reviews on them. I'm not going to do the BBK upgrade.
If I don't have to tune the car right away I can probably do the LDP sooner - I thought it would prevent me from being able to drive the car on a daily basis until I did so - so it was at the back of the list.